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Trip Report
Autumn in Andalucia
Sat 16th - Sat 23rd September 2006
Leaders: Stephen Daly
Trip Report
Day
1: Saturday 16th September 2006. After the flight from London to Seville, we
got underway on the motorway at 6 pm, heading south. It was a typically warm
Andalucian evening as we passed Jerez de la Frontera and the white village
or pueblo blanco of Medina Sedonia.
En route we managed to see Red-legged Partridge and Short-toed Larks flying
across the road and a single White Stork near a small stream. A Common Buzzard
- our first raptor of the trip - was spotted on top of a pylon and below the
hilltop town of Vejer de la Frontera a Green Sandpiper flew nearby the
mini-bus. A Lesser Kestrel, a pair of Ravens and numerous Cattle Egrets were
also seen. We did well with flying birds en route with Common Wood Pigeons,
Collared and Turtle Doves and several groups of Spotless Starlings being seen.
Slowing down at a roundabout a Common Chiffchaff flew across our path and we
had views of Goldfinches and Corn Buntings. We arrived on the coast at the
Straits of Gibraltar and our hotel at about 8pm, just in time for a splendid
dinner.
Day
2: Sunday 17th September 2006. We left the hotel after breakfast to travel
the short distance to Los Lances beach. Here we watched Kentish Plovers,
Sanderlings, a pair of Red Knots and many Common Ringed Plovers. Several
Audouin's Gulls and Yellow legged and Lesser-Black-backed Gulls sat alongside
each other on the vast expanse of beautiful sandy beach that runs from Tarifa
town to the massive sand dunes of Punta Paloma. Suddenly the waders flew off
and on scouring the sky a male Peregrine came in fast along the shoreline.
A juvenile Greater Flamingo fed along the small brackish estuary and
several Sandwich Terns sat nearby. We had brief views of a Kingfisher, which
darted across the salt scrub calling as it went. Out to sea more Sandwich Terns
and both juvenile and adult Northern Gannets were also seen diving for
fish. Scanning the nearby hill line, a small party of Griffon Vultures
patrolled the ridges keeping aloft using the strong up-draughts near the
mountaintops. A Red Kite also flew overhead towards the town of Tarifa. Travelling
along the Atlantic coast to the small town of Bolonia we headed up into the
lower slopes of the Sierra de la Plata and the Griffon Vulture colony there. En
route a Short-toed Eagle was seen sitting on a pylon and two Northern
Wheatears. Here, 35 Griffons either circled the ridge-top or were watched
sitting on cliff edges. All had terrific views. A few minutes later some more
raptors came over the top ridge and we identified them as two Booted Eagles,
three Short-toed Eagles, a Common Buzzard and two higher-flying Sparrowhawks.
The weather was beautiful and warm and the coastline of Morocco and the high
Riff Mountains seemed so close. This was the great part of watching the actual
visible bird migration across to Africa. A Blue Rock-thrush darted after
insects on the limestone crags and several Northern Wheatears, Stonechats,
Chaffinches and some lovely butterflies, which included Two-tailed Pasha,
Swallowtail, Gatekeeper and Wall Brown flitted through the small valley. We too
sheltered in the shade of some wild olive trees (Acebuche) and had our picnic
lunch with stunning views down to Tarifa and the Atlas mountains in Morocco as
a backdrop. Brilliant!
Leaving the midday heat behind we took a
couple of hours off for a siesta back at the hotel. The late afternoon was
spent along the Sanctuario road, which leads to the lower slopes of the mighty
wooded Alcornocales Natural Park near Tarifa. The temperature was rising and it
seemed that all wildlife was still taking a "siesta"! We did however
spot some Rabbits and some Bonelli's Warblers in the forest. As we were driving
slowly along the very quiet country road, a Rufous Scrub Robin flew across our
path alighting briefly on the edge of a bush before disappearing in the dense
interior. It was really quite late in the migration season to see this
particular bird and a lovely surprise. Suddenly, from out of nowhere the skies
seemed filled with highflying raptors. First seen were a group of twelve Booted
Eagles. Most were light morph but some darker birds were present. Accompanying
them were a few Short-toed Eagles and a group of nine Black Storks. Two
juvenile Bonelli's Eagles and a pair of Honey Buzzards joined the group heading
directly to the Strait of Gibraltar and Morocco, shining in the distance. A
second group of six Black Storks came a little while later and a short while
later we watched yet more Booted Eagles, six more Bonellis Eagles, some
"ginger" coloured younger birds and the more lighter adults. The
highlight of the afternoon was an impressive flying display by a juvenile
Eleanora's Falcon flying low above the Cork-Oak canopy.
On our way back to the hotel another
Booted Eagle flew very low right past the mini-bus and disappeared into the forest.
Day
3: Monday 18 September 2006.
Leaving the hotel after breakfast we drove the short distance to La
Janda and the vast maize of canals, rice-fields and other agricultural crops. A
Short-toed Eagle was perched sentry-like atop a pylon, surveying all and we saw
a Common Buzzard near the roadside hunt and take a large Rat. On the rough
track in La Janda we quickly picked up a huge flock of over 150 Glossy Ibis.
Huge numbers of White Storks, Cattle and smaller numbers of Little Egrets and
Grey Herons fed in the fields. Stan then spotted some Black Storks flying over
the distant wild olive copse and we watched them go out of sight, heading
south. Green Sandpipers took off,
calling as they went and flocks of Spanish Sparrows and Goldfinches were in abundance
and always alongside them were Greenfinches, Serins and Linnets. Quartering the
rice-fields were three young Montagu's Harriers. One of the juvenile Monty's
even landed on the track, a short distance in front of the mini-bus and happily
"shelled" and ate a large cricket. A juvenile Hen Harrier was also
watched, it too hunting in the same area. A Common Hoopoe was seen between the
rice fields, a pair of Black Kites were watched in the air and, a short time
later, five Red Kites came across the horizon. On the more open and already
harvested maize fields, Lesser Kestrels were having a busy time hunting. At
least fifty birds were seen as we continued along the main collector canal
track. Sparrowhawks were also seen hunting larks and sparrows. A single Black
shouldered Kite was picked up through the telescopes sitting on top of an
irrigation boom. Ravens, hundreds of Mallards and Common Pheasants were seen as
we headed to our lunch stop at Benalup at a local "Venta" or small
restaurant. Sitting outside in the cool shadows having lunch in such a
beautiful place was just perfect!
The afternoon brought us Willow Warblers
and a lone Chiffchaff along the canal banks. Cetti's Warblers were but a
fleeting glimpse on the canal banks and more often heard than seen. Reed
warblers and some Zitting Cisticolas showed themselves. A Striped-necked
Terrapin basked on the mud at the side of a small drainage ditch. Common and
Pallid Swifts flew high above our heads as Barn Swallows and House Martins fed
over the ditches and canals. Taking a short break from the heat, we drove down
to Tarifa town and took in the sights and cooler breeze at the causeway linking
the town to the small island there. This is the most southerly point on the
European mainland and the causeway is the official line separating the warmer
Mediterranean Sea from the cooler Atlantic Ocean. Few other birds were of note
at the boundary of the two seas, other than Ruddy Turnstones, Ringed Plovers,
Sanderlings, Yellow-legged Gulls and Sandwich Terns.
Day
4: Tuesday 19th September 2006. First
light brought a dark sea mist rolling in from the Straits, so we headed off to
the village of Facinas above the plain of La Janda. Here, on the mountain edge
we followed a track where fresh spring water dribbled out of the limestone all
year round. Cirl Buntings, Chaffinches, Blackbirds with Great and Blue Tits
flitted around the woodland area. Stonechats seemed to be everywhere and
Sardinian Warblers "scolded" us from the bottom vegetation. We also
had good views of an Iberian Hare as we drove to the Ojen Valley. Passing the
Celamin reservoir, White Wagtails chased insects along the waters edge while
Grey Herons and Little Egrets stood motionless at the water?s edge. A Tawny
Pipit and a few Sparrowhawks were also seen although quite distant. High-flying
Short-toed Eagles were seen and as we drove further along the bumpy track, the
forest vegetation became denser and greener. Stopping at some clearings we saw
Firecrest, Short-toed Treecreepers, Song Thrushes, European Robins and a single
Eurasian Jay. Coming back into open mountainside and scrub we again stopped and
checked the ridges. There were tens of Griffon Vultures in the air and we
quickly picked up four as well. Five Booted Eagles, several Short-toed Eagles,
two Bonelli's Eagles, one Sparrowhawk and three Honey Buzzards crossed the sky
above our heads. Absolutely stunning views!
Once on the Los Barios to Algeciras
road, we joined the motorway south towards Gibraltar. Stopping off at the
Palmones Estuary for lunch we saw Common Redshanks and Common Greenshanks
there. The tide was in and there weren't many exposed mud-banks on the estuary
but we were delighted to watch an Osprey dive and catch a large fish with the
rock of Gibraltar as a backdrop. Some distant Marsh Harriers and two
Sparrowhawks were picked out across the river to the marshes and White Storks
sat around in large numbers. We had a great view of a Wood Warbler that almost
landed at our feet before flitting back into the reeds. We returned along the
coast to Tarifa, stopping off at Huerta Grande Visitor Centre. Here we took a
lovely woodland walk and were rewarded with good views of Pied Flycatchers, a
single Hawfinch. Some European Robins and a group of about thirty European
Bee-eaters perched and flying around electricity cables that spanned the
valley. More Egyptian Vultures appeared along the ridges of the mountain road
as we drove back and a dashing Sparrowhawk flew past. We had a lovely dinner
back at our hotel, where staff had arranged a delicious surprise birthday cake for one of the group.
Day
5: Wednesday 20th September 2006. Flocks of Calandra Larks greeted us as we
came back to the La Janda area. Needless to say our resident Short-toed Eagle
was on top of his usual perch. Some Common Buzzards sat around too and Thekla
and Crested Larks were watched. Huge mixed flocks of House Sparrows with
Spanish Sparrows flew in and out of the unharvested rice fields. Red-legged
Partridges scuttled along the track and into the undergrowth and Northern
Wheatears flew the open fields. We travelled slowly along many of the local
tracks in this huge area and went into more open countryside bordering the
Alcornocales forest. Common and Lesser Kestrels were present with still more
juvenile Lessers than Common Kestrels. A Southern Grey Shrike sat on top of a
nearby bush and we were able to have good views of this lovely species with its
pinkish breast; a Melodious Warbler was also seen briefly. Near the Celamin
Reservoir we watched two high flying Black Storks move southeast. We decided to head along the old drovers road
at the back of La Janda that eventually comes out near Facinas. There was quite
a lot of activity from Booted and Short-toed Eagles as well as Red Kites, often
flying really low over the wild olive trees and small cork-oaks, giving all a
great opportunity to look at the different morphs of the Booted and the
variable underside plumage of the Short-toed. We checked out a medium sized
raptor with a reddish-chestnut breast colour sitting in open ground on the side
of a steep pasture. The bird turned out to be a Long-legged Buzzard. The bird
took off and flew around us and Stephen was able to get some good photos of it
and show everyone on his digital camera. What a lovely find! Just a little bit
further on an adult Black-winged Kite put on a stunning hunting and hovering
display very close to the vehicle. As we descended back towards the low-lying
agricultural area at La Janda, we started picking up more Marsh and Montagu's
Harriers. We stayed a while and watched closely their flight differences, size
and coloration. Huge flocks of Wood Pigeons came over our heads and all around
was the "tinkling" sound of Goldfinches constantly on the move. Corn
Buntings sat on the posts and wires along the track and in the muddier open
areas of the rice fields, we watched a flock of about twenty Little Ringed
Plovers fly in to feed. A Snipe was also present. We enjoyed a lovely meal back
at the hotel later that evening.
Day
6: Thursday 21st September 2006. Before
breakfast we found a Black Redstart had roosted in our hotel corridor and was
trapped. We promptly helped it outside and to freedom. After our breakfast we
left the hotel and travelled west to the mouth of the Strait at Barbate. Here
the tide was out, exposing the ancient fish-pens and salt-pans where the locals
collect Fiddler Crabs, Razorshells, Cockles and other shellfish. It wasn't long
before Ted picked up a Curlew Sandpiper accompanied by other waders that
included Whimbrels, Kentish Plovers, Common Ringed Plovers, Common Sandpipers
and a lone Ruddy Turnstone. Out of nowhere came a low Osprey and we all had
good views of the bird as it headed straight out to sea. Setting off to the
north-west we came to some small lakes that sadly were bone-dry after the summer
heat, so we drove on to Laguna de Taraje and set up scopes from a hillside on
the corner of this wonderful oasis for waterfowl. Spotted and Pied Flycatchers
were also present along the lakeside and their contact calls could be heard as
well. A few Lesser Kestrels hunted nearby and Northern Wheatears were seen in
the surrounding open fields. A dashing Merlin streaked past into the scrub but
the short view was too brief to be appreciated. The lake held large rafts of
Common Coot but very few ducks apart from Mallard, Gadwall and some Northern
Shovelers. Little Grebes, Purple Swamphens and White Storks were also seen with
many Lesser Black-backed, Black-headed and Yellow Legged Gulls. Red-rumped
Swallows and Sand Martins gave us some super views, feeding close to where we
had set up our scopes. Pallid and Common Swifts were also seen. Several Marsh
Harriers patrolled the lakeside reeds and longer grasses.
Taking lunch near Laguna de Medina we
parked at the car park in front of the lake. The new motorway is now completed
and the old road has almost no traffic to speak of and is a no-through-road.
Today it?s much safer and easier to park and cross over the road to the nature
reserve. The construction of a sturdy, raised wooden walkway and the building
of a proper look-out point together with a large, new wooden hide at the side
of the lake, has enhanced the access, views and possibilities for extremely
good birding at this famous site.
At the lookout point we soon picked up a
solitary Eurasian Spoonbill, Pied Avocets and four White-headed Ducks. Rafts of
Common Coots were present and we tried in vain to spot Red-knobbed Coot without
success. One Common Snipe, several Black-winged Stilts, Black-tailed Godwits
and a Common Sandpiper were also seen, as were ten Honey Buzzards, Booted and Short-toed Eagles.
We arrived back at our base fairly tired
but extremely pleased.
Day
7: Friday 22nd September 2006. Rain
was forecast from the south and the skies looked rather solemn as we loaded up
the mini-bus after breakfast. Driving down the main road to La Janda, we saw
Griffon Vultures and Short-toed Eagles. Once along the main track we quickly
picked up large flocks of Spanish Sparrows dashing in and out of the rice
fields. House Sparrows were also seen in large groups. Corn Buntings were
plentiful as were Greenfinches, Goldfinches and Chaffinches. Zitting Cisticolas
kept us company along the main collector canal track, as did the machine-gun
burst call of numerous Cetti's Warblers from the canal banks. Reed warblers
were seen and a Kingfisher took off from the canal side, disappearing quickly
into the low reeds. Raptor sightings included five Black-winged Kites, one
juvenile Bonelli's Eagle, Sparrowhawks and Short-toed Eagles as well as many
Lesser and Common Kestrels. On checking waders in a small flooded rice field we
came across a single Pectoral Sandpiper feeding happily amongst Green
Sandpipers and nearby Black-winged Stilts. Several sightings of this rare North
American wader had been reported throughout Europe after the Caribbean
hurricane season. Common Pheasants and Red-legged Partridges were plentiful and
a party of migrating Alpine Swifts fed overhead for quite some time. House
Martins and Barn Swallows seemed to be everywhere one minute, then there would
be a break and others would arrive often with a group of Sand Martins. Checking
one of the dams at the Celamin reservoir we saw Rock Doves, Jackdaws and a pair
of Ravens were also flying and calling overhead. A kingfisher called and flew
off across the water past some Moorhens and a Little Egret, just as the skies
seemed to fill with various raptors. Griffon Vultures were numerous and five
Egyptian Vultures came over with a Bonelli's Eagle close by. Both morphs of
Booted Eagle were also seen in the skies close together, which were great for
comparison purposes and appreciated by all.
We took a late, but extremely satisfying
lunch near the town of Benalup, sitting underneath the large shaded terrace
watching passing Griffon Vultures and kept company by an inquisitive Northern
Wren just beside our table. On checking the Barbate Reservoir after lunch we
saw a single Osprey lift off from the bank which then gave us a terrific
hunting display culminating in a successful fish catch! Scanning the reservoir
we picked up another four Ospreys. Little Owls called from the nearby wild
olive trees. Great Cormorants were also seen in good numbers and a small group
of Whiskered Terns was seen as well. On our way back to Tarifa and to our
hotel, we travelled down from Benalup and traversed the La Janda plain, which
was again full of White Storks and Cattle Egrets. One Black Stork was watched,
as were several Marsh and Montagu's Harriers. This was another good opportunity
to compare both Harriers close at hand an all of us could clearly see the vast
size difference between the much larger Marsh over the dainty and acrobatic
Montagu's. Vast numbers of White storks were present and an adult and a
juvenile Woodchat Shrike posed for us as a Turtle Dove dashed past. We also saw
an amazing aggressive display from a Common Kestrel dive-bombing a young
Peregrine. Yellow Wagtails - the "Spanish" form Iberiae were also watched on the rice field edges and parties of
Jackdaws flew past calling their short and quite pleasing "kaya" call.
Winding our way back to our hotel we all
agreed that this had been an outstanding day?s birding. Cool drinks outside on
the terrace primed us for another fine Andalucian meal.
Day
8: Saturday 23rd September 2006. This
was our last day and with it our return to Seville and the flight home. As we
had time in hand we took a slight detour through Jerez de la Frontera to
Sanlúcar de Barrameda where the huge Guadalquivir River flows out to the
Atlantic Ocean. Stopping to use our telescopes on the mudflats at the original hamlet
of Bonanza, where Christopher Columbus
set sail on his fourth voyage of discovery, we soon discovered various waders
which included Grey, Common Ringed and Little Ringed Plovers, Black-tailed
Godwits, Whimbrels, Eurasian Curlews, Redshanks, Sanderlings and Dunlins. Four
Caspian Terns were watched flying along the riverside or sitting on the
mudflats, five Little Terns and numerous Sandwich Terns with a single
Mediterranean Gull were also seen. We moved into the Stone Pine forest that is
part of the Coto Doñana reserve and made our way to a small lake with a hide.
This is a great little spot and soon we picked up a pair of Squacco Herons and
over 25 White-headed Ducks. Three Black-necked Grebes and numerous Little
Grebes dived and re-appeared in front of the hide and we spotted two
Black-crowned Night Herons sitting low in the bushes on the far side of the
lake. Over the far side of the lake several large flocks of Greater Flamingos
flew past. A Common Kingfisher was perched in one of the reedy corners of the
lake and we all has great views of it plunging into the water, returning to its
perch with a fish and tapping it on the branch before eating it. Three juvenile
Red-crested Pochards were seen a little further through the forest at a fish
farm amongst some Common Pochards. The pine forest held migrating Spotted and
Pied Flycatchers. A fine ?Tapas? lunch at a small rustic restaurant set us up
nicely for the drive back to Seville airport and the conclusion of the tour.