Limosa Holidays

E-News

Accreditations

Limosa Accreditations

Trip Report

Oaxaca Valley & Pacific coast

Tue 28th December 2004 - Sun 9th January 2005

Leaders: Mike & Megan Crewe

Please note: Our past tours to southern Mexico have all run slightly earlier (over Christmas and New Year) than our 2006 trip. But March is also a lovely time to visit Oaxaca, with spring in the air, northbound migration underway and bird song to the fore - while the south Mexico endemics are, of course, present throughout. To help give a flavour of what's in store on our March tour, we've posted a copy of our New Year 2004-5 trip report (below). Please note that our spring 2006 trip will not be visiting the coast, focusing instead on a longer and more relaxed stay in the bird-rich Oaxaca valley. Making his fourth visit to Oaxaca for us, Limosa's Mike Crewe will again be your guide in March 2006.

Trip Diary

What better way to spend New Year than in a hot, sunny climate, surrounded by an array of fabulous birds. This joint Field Guides-Limosa Holidays tour was our second at this time of year, but Megan's experience of January visits proved invaluable in tracking down a superb cross-section of the region's birds. Starting in Oaxaca City, we travelled out each day to a range of habitats, from the arid, cactus-strewn slopes of the hot Oaxaca valley, through scrub oak to the higher, steep sided slopes, clothed in wonderful pine-oak forest. The hot Central Valley provided Beautiful Hummingbird, Bridled Sparrow, Boucard's Wren and Grey-breasted Woodpecker among the cactus stands as well as wintering flocks of sparrows, buntings and orioles. The scrub-oak slopes were home to Ocellated Thrasher, Blue Mockingbird, Western Scrub-jay and an array of vireos and we spent some lazy hours enjoying the areas rich ancient cultural heritage at Mitla, Yagul and the amazing Monte Albán. The high pine and pine-oak forests perhaps gave us our busiest moments, as we stumbled on mixed flocks of birds, or enjoyed a range of bewildering hummingbirds. Yellow-browed and Rufous-capped Warblers, Grey-barred Wren, Dwarf Jay, Rose-throated Becard, Grey Silky-flycatcher, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Greenish Elaenia, Rufous-capped and Chestnut-capped Brush-finches, Collared Towhee, Aztec Thrush, Olive, Crescent-chested and Red Warblers and Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer were all found, along with Blue-throated, Garnet-throated, Bumblebee and Magnificent Hummingbirds.

After a lengthy day's drive over the Sierra Madre del Sur, we finished our tour on the Pacific coast. Here coastal wetlands produced their usual abundance of life with a whole host of herons, egrets, ibises and shorebirds to enjoy with highlights including Bare-throated Tiger-heron, Boat-billed Heron, Muscovy Duck, Magnificent Frigatebird, Northern Jacana and Common Black Hawk. The hinterland of tropical deciduous forest gave us Golden Vireo, Orange-breasted Bunting, Happy and Banded Wrens, Lesser Ground Cuckoo, Russet-crowned Motmot, Golden-cheeked Woodpecker, Citreoline Trogon, White-throated Magpie-jay and Broad-billed and Cinnamon Hummingbirds. An adventure into the Sierra Madre del Sur also added Green Jay, Masked Tityra, Black-headed Saltator, and Orange-fronted Parakeets amidst lush evergreen forest.

Fabulous birding, and all with the added bonus of the cultural experience of New Year Mexican style.

Day 1. Tuesday 28th Dec 2004 For those of us travelling from the UK, our tour started at Heathrow this morning with a short flight to snowy Amsterdam. From there, we made the most extraordinary journey to Mexico, heading north up the Norwegian coast, north beyond Iceland, across, Greenland, Baffin Island, then south right down through the mid-west of America! Despite all this, we made Mexico City on good time, transferred to Oaxaca City and were soon bedding down in our hotel for night.

Day 2. Wednesday 29th Dec 2004. With a six o’clock breakfast booked, we were awake before the sun, but it was light by the time we were ready to leave and our first ‘yardbirds’ included Tropical Kingbird, Western Tanager, Yellow-rumped Warbler and Cedar Waxwing. Our drivers, Tiofilo and his son Rafael, were prompt and we left the hustle and bustle of town and headed for our first day’s birding. Within half an hour we were scanning arid fields, alive with the likes of Loggerhead Shrike, Eastern Meadowlark, Curve-billed Thrasher, Red-tailed Hawk and a whole lot more. Our first endemic came in the shape of the wonderful Boucard’s Wren, a small party sitting atop a thorn bush to take in the sun right next to us. Grey-breasted Woodpecker, White-throated Towhee, plenty of cat-faced Lark Sparrows and an obliging Ash-throated Flycatcher all followed, before we headed further up through Teotitlán del Valle (full of House Sparrows!) and jumped out at a little gully beside the road. The star here was our first Bridled Sparrow, but Slate-throated Whitestart was also a strong contender. Dusky Hummingbird, Bullock’s and Black-vented Orioles, Lincoln’s Sparrow and Black-throated Grey Warbler all followed. The track took us into more arid scrub, where a West Mexican Chachalaca disappeared all too quick, but our first Rufous-capped Warbler put on a great show.

A drink stop as the day was warming up added an array of flycatchers, then we reached the start of the dry oak scrub, where our first Mountain Trogons gave us the slip and a Northern Flicker did likewise. By midday we had reached the lower Pine-oak forest and birds were coming thick and fast, even at this time of day. The endemic Grey-barred Wren gave itself up without a struggle and we enjoyed Tufted Flycatcher, Bridled Titmouse, Red and Crescent-chested Warblers, Blue-throated Hummingbird and Green Violet-ear. After lunch, a nice surprise here was a very obliging Oaxaca Sparrow which fed seemingly unconcernedly almost at our feet and remained the talking point — right up until we found our first Red-faced Warbler — wow! A hatful of other delights followed, but time was drawing on and we began our decent back to the hotel. We had managed to resist the reservoir on the way up (well, almost!) as we needed to get into good habitat as early as possible, but we gave it a good once-over on the return. Ruddy Duck, Least Grebe, Blue-winged Teal and a single Mexican Duck were out on the water, with plenty of Least and Spotted Sandpipers round the edge. Say’s and Black Phoebes graced dead weed stalks more subtly than the outrageous Vermilion Flycatchers that seemed to be everywhere. Our evening meal saw us overlooking the Zocolo, the main square in the city and we all got to sample the local delicacy — grasshoppers!

Day 3. Thursday 30th Dec 2004. We started today in the scrubby gullies and arroyos and were surprised that the temperature was a mere 34ûF (2ûC)! Bird activity was slow, but we soon found a feeding flock with Black-vented and Audubon’s Orioles, Spotted Towhee, Hepatic Tanager, Dusky-capped Flycatcher and good numbers of Black-headed Grosbeaks. We intended passing straight through La Cumbre, but someone just had to go and look out of the window! We were soon all out and spent a jolly hour or more enjoying both Russet and Ruddy-capped Nightingale-thrushes, Grey Silky-flycatcher, Black-headed Siskin, Common Crossbill, Brown-backed Solitaire and an amazingly showing Blue Mockingbird. Ruby-crowned Kinglet, Yellow-eyed Junco and a Rufous-capped Brush-finch also showed up. From here, we struck out through the Sierra de Aloapaneca, surround by wonderful high pine-oak forest, dripping with lichens, mosses, bromeliads and even some fabulous epiphytic orchids. The first walk gave us a Magnificent Hummingbird feeding at a flowering Agave, busy flocks containing Warbling and Cassin’s Vireos, Hermit and Townsend’s Warblers and a female Mountain Trogon. Mexican Chickadees proved elusive, as did a Chestnut-capped Brush-finch but most of us got them in the end. A mystery hummingbird turned out to be a young Garnet-throated — much needed by Bill but he would have to wait some days to get this one back!

The wait for lunch to be prepared was made all the easier by the presence of a super Red Warbler and some White-eared Hummingbirds then, moving on later, we were jumping out for a Mountain Trogon that had disappeared down the bank. Band-tailed Pigeons and several amazing Golden-browed Warblers were seen here as well as another three Red Warblers. Once again, time was running short, but we still hadn’t seen the star bird here yet. Further still, we located some noisy Steller’s Jays and Grey-barred Wrens — booth ‘carrier’ species for our quarry. Careful scanning soon produced the goods and with a short wait, we were soon all enjoying scope views of the amazing Dwarf Jay. A Hairy Woodpecker and a nice pair of Rose-throated Becards were also here to ensure we rounded off the day with a flourish.

Day 4. Friday 31st Dec 2004. New Year’s Eve — what better way to spend the last day of the year than enjoying some great birds mixed with a tour of the famous ruins at Monte Albán. After some thumb-twiddling while we filled up with fuel, we stopped on the road where a seemingly quiet hillside turned out to be bustling with birds. A pair of graceful White-tailed Kites hovered on the next slope while we enjoyed the likes of Blue Grosbeak, Virginia’s Warbler, Golden Vireo, Berylline Hummingbird, Blue Mockingbird and a somewhat shy Pileated Flycatcher. At Monte Albán itself, the car park was bristling with birds. A surprise Hermit Thrush showed well and Blue-grey Gnatcatcher, Black-and-white Warbler, Western Tanager and a number of other were enjoyed. On the further slopes, it wasn’t long before at least some of us had enjoyed fabulous close views of a stunning Slaty Vireo — the book really doesn’t do them justice. Up on the hill, a Lesser Roadrunner perched up in the early sun and a trio of wrens involved Boucard’s, House and Bewick’s. A female Scott’s Oriole and half a dozen Bushtits finished things off before we headed into the ruins for our cultural tour, led by Benito.

The tour took us round all the best spots on the site, with Benito adding an extra touch with his own personal interpretation of what it was all about — fascinating. Back at the car park, the surprise bird of the day appeared in the shape of a Song Sparrow which really shouldn’t be anywhere near here, but lunch was beckoning and we had to get going. A late lunch was followed by shopping in town or just a stroll for some (or even a sleep!), while others took in the gardens. Cedar Waxwings were feeding on a California Pepper Tree and we were able to make direct comparison of Rufous-backed and Clay-coloured Thrushes. But for some Curve-billed Thrashers on the boundary wall, things went a little quiet, until we found a leaking lawn sprinkler and sat down to enjoy Wilson’s and Nashville Warblers and House Finches coming down to bathe. We dined at a new restaurant in town tonight — and what a treat it was, complete with a full orchestral ensemble playing in the street outside and Lesser Nighthawks wheeling over the church. The fitter members of the group even managed to stay up to see in the New Year — while those who didn’t plan on being awake were no doubt encouraged to do so by the huge firework display that went off all over the city at the stroke of midnight.

Day 5. Saturday 1st Jan 2005. Happy New Year - Feliz Año Nuevo!!! Several of us saw in the New Year with a fabulous male Vermilion Flycatcher — better than the usual House Sparrow or Starling! After our usual 6 o’clock breakfast, we headed out, pausing to try our luck for thrashers again. Once more, no thrashers, but a few surprises, including a nice male Baltimore Oriole, two Bridled Sparrows and a totally unexpected Philadelphia Vireo. A little further, we walked up beside one of the many well-vegetated gullies in the area and found an excellent busy feeding party, dominated by Lesser Goldfinches and Chipping Sparrows. Some excellent birds were among them, including Golden, Dwarf and Slaty Vireos, Red-faced Warbler and Brown-backed Solitaire.

Tearing ourselves away, we were soon at our chosen birding locale for the day, a little road high in Pine-Oak forest. A male Common Crossbill was in full song and we had good views of the local Brown-throated form of House Wren. Following up on a rowdy gathering, we found a large number of Grey Silky-flycatchers and American Robins feeding in berrying bushes. Here too were several Black Thrushes, Aztec Thrush, Russet Nightingale-thrush and some smart Crescent-chested Warblers. Further on, a pair of Olive Warblers showed very well, as did another Red-faced Warbler, but all was surpassed by a very obliging male Bumblebee Hummingbird which allowed very close approach right by our lunch stop. After lunch, many more birds were enjoyed in mixed feeding parties, dominated by a wealth of wintering warblers. Rose-throated Becard, White-throated Thrush and a Hairy Woodpecker were all singled out and a female Mountain Trogon gave excellent scope views. We spent the afternoon strolling this wonderful road, with the occasional clumps of pink epiphytic orchids adding splashes of colour and Megan excelling herself by stopping a tarantula in its tracks long enough for us all to enjoy it — you don’t realise just what an achievement that was! One final crowning glory in the afternoon was a superb adult male Aztec Thrush that sat and posed on a mossy, licheny branch and showed just how cryptic its plumage can be when put in context. It had been an amazing start to the new year and one that will live long in the memory.

Day 6. Sunday 2nd Jan 2005. Time for a return to the wonderful region around the little rug-making town of Teotitlán del Valle — and another shot at those elusive thrashers. We just had to stop at the reservoir, though, when an adult male Merlin came flashing through and gave wonderful flight views. The dusty old hairpins bustled with birds - Dwarf, Hutton’s, Golden and Warbling Vireos, Nutting’s Flycatcher, Greater Pewee, our first Western Scrub Jays and some very obliging Rufous-crowned Sparrows. Other new birds included a fine Ladder-backed Woodpecker and a Thick-billed Kingbird. Most of us then opted to give the reservoir a good scan, but the hardier thrasher hunters (Daphne, Bill and Hans) chose to stay on a while — and had at least partial success before we met up again midday. The reservoir brimmed with activity, with a wealth of kingbirds, phoebes and other flycatchers all busy round the edges, as well as the likes of Green Kingfisher, Buff-bellied Pipit, Rufous-capped Warbler and good numbers of hirundines. The party of Least Grebes and the Mexican Duck were all still present, as were the Ruddy Ducks, Least Sandpipers and a couple of Killdeers. However, a male Painted Bunting simply dissolved into thin air before being fully appreciated. Lunch was a grand affair — a full Mexican treat with every dish and side serve a local speciality, courtesy of Rosario and her sisters. Did you all master the right order in which to take Mescal, lime and chilli salt?! For most, the afternoon was spent learning how the local rugs are made, from raw wool to finished article. David simply hadn’t seen enough birds yet — so he and Mike strolled the village outskirts and topped off the day with four Social Flycatchers, a species which shouldn’t be up here in the central valley. We set off back to base a little earlier than usual to allow for an earlier dinner before an owling session in the evening. Unfortunately, the weather conspired against us; arriving at our owling spot, all was quiet and continued so as low mist rolled in and the owls all stayed tucked up in bed. For some, the evening was salvaged by the appearance of a Ring-tail (a cat-like relative of the Racoon) on the drive back.

Day 7. Monday 3rd Jan 2005. We spent this morning back in lowland cultivation with parties of wintering warblers and sparrows dominating the scene. Loggerhead Shrikes perched up on bush tops and White-throated Towhees seemed to be everywhere. Our first big surprise of the day involved the discovery of a pair of Streak-backed Orioles which should not have been up in central valley — but birds don’t read bird books! Scanning through the sparrow flocks revealed a single Clay-coloured Sparrow and some nice male Blue Grosbeaks and an impressive vulture kettle soared up in the distance. As the ground became more rocky, cultivation stopped and we scanned the flowering cacti until we found several Beautiful Hummingbirds — something of a speciality in this area. However, the surprise of the day stole the show here as that forest denizen the Hook-billed Kite put in an appearance — most bizarre as it showed superbly, soaring over the arid cactus scrub!! A close Cooper’s Hawk, several Dusky Hummingbirds and those wonderful Grey-breasted Woodpeckers rounded off the morning well. We all enjoyed a peaceful hour at the ancient ruins at Yagul (Adding another couple of Streak-backed Orioles for good measure) then continued on to Mitla for more ruins - but not before screeching to a halt to enjoy a pair of magnificent White-tailed Hawks, one of which dropped down and caught a sizeable lizard which it promptly devoured. The intricate wall work, catholic church and colourful little market stalls at Mitla kept us all busy for an hour, then it was back to the hotel for lunch.

Our time in the central valley was running out and this year’s problem species had still not given itself up. While some opted for souvenir hunting, the rest headed out to route 175 with a mission — to nail the Ocellated Thrasher. It is oh so easy to try too hard for something and this trip could have gone horribly wrong! In the event, we came out smelling of roses as an Ocellated Thrasher tiptoed around us in the bushes and with a bit of neck craning we finally got nice views. There was an added bonus too of a stunning Slaty Vireo at three feet!

Day 8. Tuesday 4th Jan 2005. The day of the transfer was upon us and we soon had the vehicles loaded in good time. Unfortunately, the need to squeeze the last drop into the petrol tanks on the edge of town held us up a while, but we were eventually on the open road and heading along the rolling countryside of the Oaxaca Valley. Our only stop in this area was for a Northern Harrier playing with a couple of White-tailed hawks and, but for a brief ‘bush stop’ we were all very good and tried not to find anything too interesting out of the windows! It was well after 11.00 when we finally succumbed to a snack break and rather foolishly found some good birds! Rufous-capped Brush-finch and a juvenile Aztec Thrush were among the highlights, as well as an array of busy hummingbirds and wintering warblers. We managed another hour and a half of travel before lunch, which we took at the appropriately-named "Turkey Bridge’ — appropriate because the nearby farm had several in residence (turkeys that is, not bridges)! Well up in the forested Sierra Madre del Sur now (around 6,500’), the temperature had cooled and lunch was a pleasant affair, accompanied by the likes of Flame-coloured Tanager, MacGillivray’s Warbler and Common Bush Tanager.

Another hour and a half beyond lunch we made a protracted stop in the only area of humid evergreen forest that we would pass through on this tour. Although pressed for time, it was too good to miss and we spent a very busy period here, seemingly surrounded by birds. We started with berrying bushes alive with thrushes. White-throated Thrushes by the roadside were joined by wintering Hermit and Swainson’s Thrushes, as well as a Veery which should have been on the Atlantic slope — and further south by now, too. On a little side track, a particular spot was alive with birds — perhaps attracted to an ant trail across the track. Dayglow warblers were much in evidence with Golden-browed, Golden-crowned and Rufous-capped Warblers finally joined by a pair of outrageous Fan-tailed Warblers. A pair of Flame-coloured Tanagers were followed by a Grey-crowned Woodpecker and some enjoyed their first Happy Wren. For Bill, the whole tour was saved when a Garnet-throated Hummingbird turned up — one of the few new species possible for him and which he had missed earlier in the week. The rest of the journey was a bit of a race against the clock as the sun set and we eventually arrived at our next hotel around 8pm. It seemed a bit fraught at the time, but looking back on the superb memories of all those busy birds surely makes it worth while.

Day 9. Wednesday 5th Jan 2005. At the coast now, breakfast was a very different affair this morning as we set out early and bought coffees and buns from a beachside cafe. A chance look at the bay revealed an unexpected Common Loon flying around offshore, while the roadside coconut palms held Yellow-throated Warbler and Rufous-naped Wren. A little road running into the thorn scrub inland of the coast road provided our early morning’s birding, but our first stop was not the place it used to be, much of the vegetation having been cleared for a poor corn crop amongst the boulders. We moved on and soon pulled up for a roadside juvenile Grey Hawk and our first White-throated Magpie-jays — outrageous! Citreoline Trogon and dayglow Orange-breasted Buntings were soon added, as well as both Blue-grey and White-lored Gnatcatchers, Bell’s Vireo, Yellow-winged Cacique, Altamira Oriole and Golden-cheeked Woodpecker.

Back for a well-earned breakfast, we ate with fabulous views of the Pacific Ocean, while Brown Pelicans, Brown Boobies and Royal Terns dived offshore. We spent the rest of the morning down at the mouth of the Colotepec River — where a veritable festival of avian delights awaited. Egrets and herons abounded and we particularly enjoyed the smart Yellow-crowned Night Herons, White Ibises and dancing Reddish Egrets. Black Skimmers roosted in good numbers and we picked out several Elegant Terns among the more usual species. A good range of shorebirds abounded, including a handful of Whimbrel, Willets and dainty Collared Plovers and a touch of the exotic was added by the lemon and cinnamon Northern Jacanas. The shady Palapas with cool drinks were too much for some to ignore, others ventured to the end of the lagoon to find Belted Kingfisher, Orchard Oriole, Osprey and Peregrine. After much discussion, we all agreed that the party of birds feeding in the cat-tails were indeed Ruddy-breasted Seedeaters. After lunch and a siesta, we returned to the thorn scrub road and started with a very obliging Zone-tailed Hawk — nailed at last! Black-and-white Warbler, Bell’s Vireo, Cinnamon Hummingbird and a smart Blue-headed Vireo were among the birds found and enjoyed, but the award for sharp eyes of the tour finally went permanently to Daphne who spotted a well-camouflaged Russet-crowned Motmot as we streaked by in the van. Even more miraculously it remained while we milled around for several minutes wondering where it had gone to! Scope views were fulfilled before it gradually moved off into thicker cover. Our final highlight was a very obliging Ferruginous Pygmy Owl — much to Jo’s delight!

Day 10. Thursday 6th Jan 2005. Another early breakfast at the little café on the front ensured we arrived in good time for our day out on the water. Not for us the open sea, though! We spent the day cruising mangrove-lined lagoons and creeks and adding a whole new range of birds to our list. The mangroves harboured wintering flocks of passerines and our pygmy owl calls turned up a particularly good flock that provided American Redstart, Yellow Warbler, Northern Waterthrush, two Mangrove Vireos and a brief Yellow-throated Chat among others. White-fronted Parrots seemed ever-present and we found several Red-billed Pigeons. A fruiting fig had attracted Rufous-backed Thrushes and Citreoline Trogons and White-collared Swift flocks were plentiful. Kingfishers seemed always to be around with Belted, Green and the enormous Ringed all enjoyed, while a couple of ‘genuine’ Muscovy Ducks and a Lineated Woodpecker were special treats. Several Lesser Nighthawks were found at daytime roost and we all marvelled at the ridiculous expressions of the Boat-billed Herons.

A close encounter with a suitably small and unalarming American Crocodile saw us through to a marshy corner where a flock of several hundred Black-bellied Whistling-ducks rose with a great flurry of wings. A tree-climbing Purple Gallinule was a highlight here too. Our morning was rounded off with a nice relaxing time enjoying cold drinks in the shade on the beach, before we were heading back to our vehicles across the other side of the lagoon. Lunch back at the hotel was followed by a return to the thorn scrub road and the start of a particularly protracted debate regarding the identity of a certain owl! A wonderful Squirrel Cuckoo showed really well, but not so a Lesser Ground Cuckoo which, though seen by those with the right sight line through the branches, remained hidden for most and simply melted away. Two Wood Storks soaring over were a bonus for those who had missed the one in the morning and a run of good luck then produced Rufous-naped and Banded Wrens, a female Rose-throated Becard, Olive Sparrow, Cinnamon Hummingbird and some rather unhelpful Blue-black Grassquits.

Day 11. Friday 7th Jan 2005. Our last full day was to take us back up into the Sierra Madre del Sur to plug the last few gaps in our list. We needed to dodge a few potholes on the way, but generally the road was well-maintained — it was just the corners that seemed to be never-ending! A fruiting fig in a village along the first stretch of road had us stopping for two Citreoline Trogons sat out in full view, as well as Altamira and Streak-backed Orioles, Yellow-winged Cacique and Golden-cheeked Woodpecker. We stopped for a roadside breakfast overlooking a small ranch and found the trees here alive with early morning activity. Two noisy Black-headed Saltators were enjoyed here, plus our first Masked Tityras and Rose-breasted Grosbeaks. Thick-billed Kingbird, Summer Tanager, Social Flycatcher, Red-billed Pigeon, Cedar Waxwing and those raucous Great Kiskadees were all part of the scene and ensured a wonderful breakfast period was had by all. Further up, a small area of shade coffee harboured a nice party of Orange-fronted Parakeets and the first of several Broad-winged Hawks — this one plummeted into an unseen finca and the last thing we heard sounded like a turkey chick meeting its maker! A Greenish Elaenia called from the canopy and Nashville Warblers seemed to be everywhere. Female-type hummingbirds kept us permanently flummoxed while a larger area of shade coffee further up gave us the opportunity to talk with some of the growers who are trying to market a bird-friendly product to the USA. Tiofilo, our driver, was over the moon here as he finally found us a Guanabana tree — we had seen the fruit for sale and didn’t know it. Sadly he couldn’t find a ripe fruit for us — though he did try hard! It turns out that this is one of the Custard Apple fruits and is grown around much of the tropics now. Just around the next couple of corners we fell upon another nice mixed flock. After wrestling with a couple of occasionally obliging Happy Wrens, we waded into a nice party of birds with Black-throated Green and Fan-tailed Warblers, Least Flycatcher, Baltimore Oriole, Golden Vireo, Western Tanager and many more. Above it all, a couple of striking Wagler’s Toucanets put in a reasonably good show too. The sunlit stream flowing under the road was also a great place for butterflies, with the likes of Malachite, Red Rim and several other unknown species all dancing around.

Lunch was taken under the shade of a large pine with suspiciously lumpy-looking bark. It turned out to be home to a gang of Acorn Woodpeckers and many of its branches were stuffed full of little holes, each holding a well-placed acorn. A pre-lunch walk here was rather quiet, but some of us managed at least a glimpse of a group of three Green Jays and a couple of Black-headed Saltators. Despite much searching, the afternoon just didn’t look like producing the goods and each new place seemed quieter than the last. We cut our losses and began the descent, enjoying some nice Orange-fronted Parakeets and one or two other treats on the way.

Day 12. Saturday 8th Jan 2005. With an afternoon flight out of Puerto Escondido today, we at least had the morning for some final birding. Our little thorn scrub road did us proud with some nice Ruddy Ground Doves (which had been rather elusive up until now) and a brief Northern Beardless Tyrannulet plus smart Orange-breasted Buntings and Rufous-naped Wrens. Orchard Orioles finally crawled out into the open for the whole group and we plugged another gap with a pair of Brown-crested Flycatchers at last. Banded Wren again gave us the runaround and a pair of Greyish Saltators skulked off before everyone had had a chance to enjoy them. Back in time for a leisurely breakfast, we had plenty of time afterwards for packing and last minute shopping before lunch and heading for the airport. Views of the great volcanoes around Mexico City were the last treat that the country had in store for us before we parted company, the Europeans staying together for a final Mexican meal before heading for Amsterdam and then onward towards home.

Mike and Megan would like to thank you all for your good humour, understanding and good company throughout the tour, and look forward to meeting you all again some time, some where.

Systematic List of Species Recorded

(Total number of bird species recorded by the group 282.
Leader-onlys are shown for completeness, but not included in the trip total)

Common Loon Gavia immer
A surprise find of one off Puerto Escondido on the morning of 5th.

Least Grebe Tachybaptus dominicus
At least 12 on the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and 2nd and two at the coastal lagoon on 6th.

Brown Pelican Pelecanus occidentalis
Good numbers at coastal sites daily from 5th, both at coastal lagoons and inlets, and on the open sea.

Brown Booby Sula leucogaster
Up to six regularly at breakfast time off Puerto Escondido from 5th, including a couple of smart adults.

Neotropic Cormorant Phalacrocorax brasilianus
Very common at the coast with birds of all ages at lagoons and inlets on 5th and 6th. Also a few fly-bys offshore on 8th

Anhinga Anhinga anhinga
At least six on the boat trip on 6th.

Magnificent Frigatebird Fregata magnificens
Fabulous views of this menacing bird around Puerto Escondido daily.

Great Blue Heron Ardea herodias
One at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd, two at the river mouth on 5th and at least 10 on the boat trip on 6th.

Great Egret Ardea alba
One to two on five dates in the central valley and a good scattering at coastal wetlands.

Reddish Egret Egretta rufescens
Three at the river mouth on 5th and three on our boat trip on 6th. Both sites held single white morph birds.

Tricoloured Heron Egretta tricolor
Common at coastal lagoons and inlets with around 15 at the river mouth and 15 at the lagoon.

Little Blue Heron Egretta caerulea
A white youngster at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd, an adult at the river mouth on 5th and at least three on the boat trip on 6th.

Snowy Egret Egretta thula
Up to three at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle then widespread in suitable habitat at the coast from 30th.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Scattered in suitable habitat throughout the tour.

Green Heron Butorides virescens
Common around the lagoon on 6th with at least 12 birds seen - mostly adults. Also on at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Some 10 or so birds roosting in red mangroves at the lagoon on 6th. Mostly adults.

Yellow-crowned Night-heron Nyctanassa violacea
Around a dozen birds at the river mouth on 5th and at least eight on the boat trip on 6th.

Boat-billed Heron Cochlearius cochlearius
An extraordinary beast! Close-up views of at least a dozen birds roosting in mangroves on our boat trip on 6th.

Bare-throated Tiger-heron Tigrisoma mexicanum
Superb views of three adults during our tour of the lagoon on 6th, both perched and in flight. One particularly fine bird showed a day-glow yellow throat patch.

Wood Stork Mycteria americana
One flew over the lagoon (seen from Megan’s boat) on the morning of 6th and two more soared high over the Colotepec valley later the same day.

White Ibis Eudocimus albus
Some 30+ birds at the estuary on 5th and six at the lagoon on 6th; mostly adults but some brown juveniles and patchy immatures too.

[Fulvous Whistling-duck Dendrocygna bicolor
Two in the large flock of Black-bellieds on the boat trip on 6th unfortunately got lost among the milling throng as they all took off and became a ‘leader-only’].

Black-bellied Whistling-duck Dendrocygna autumnalis
A fabulous busy flock of some 500 birds at the lagoon on 6th were a magnificent sight as they whistled edgily before all taking flight.

Muscovy Duck Cairina moschata
Two seen in flight on the boat trip on 6th. Nice to see the ‘real thing’!

Mallard (Mexican Duck) Anas platyrhynchos diazi
A single bird on the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and 2nd. This form, in which the male has no alternate, breeding plumage, is sometimes considered a full species.

Blue-winged Teal Anas discors
At least 15 at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle, 200+ at the estuary on 5th and at least 60 at the lagoon on 6th.

Lesser Scaup Aythya affinis
A raft of at least 1000 on the lagoon on 6th. This is a favoured wintering site for the species where they feed on the abundant mussels.

Ruddy Duck Oxyura jamaicensis
Four at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and 2nd.

American Black Vulture Coragyps atratus
Just the odd one or two birds in the central valley of Oaxaca on three dates, with max count of 15+ around Yagul on 3rd. More common at the coast where seen daily in good numbers.

Turkey Vulture Cathartes aura
Daily in small numbers throughout, even over the highest pine forests; higher numbers at the coast.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus
One on the beach at the river mouth on 5th and three around the lagoon on 6th.

Hook-billed Kite Chondrohierax uncinatus
One of the bizarre moments of the trip! A female flew SE over arid matorral near Yagul on 3rd — this is a bird of forest areas!

White-tailed Kite Elanus leucurus
A pair enjoyed at Monte Albán on 31st and one south of Oaxaca City on the drive on 4th. Surprisingly long-tailed, giving a rather harrier-like profile at times.

Northern Harrier Circus cyaneus
Brief glimpses of a female from a moving vehicle in the central valley on 29th. Much better was the male mobbing a White-tailed Hawk south of Ocotlán on 4th.

Sharp-shinned Hawk Accipiter striatus
One shot past us near Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Cooper's Hawk Accipiter cooperii
Three singletons in the central valley and one in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th. A perched bird at Yagul gave particularly fine views.

Common Black Hawk Buteogallus anthracinus
At least 12 birds - all adults - noted around the lagoon on 6th. Coastal forms specialises on catching crabs in mangrove areas and may be split on ecological grounds as Mangrove Black Hawk (B. subtilis). However, this split seems only to involve birds from Chiapas southward, and seems to be ill thought as birds in Oaxaca are clearly behaving the same way too.

Grey Hawk Asturina nitida
A couple of sightings of a nice juvenile bird east of Puerto Escondido presumably all involved the same individual.

Roadside Hawk Buteo magnirostris
Two birds seen around the lagoon on our boat trip on 6th.

Broad-winged Hawk Buteo platypterus
A run of sightings in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th produced at least five individuals, including some fine adults.

Short-tailed Hawk Buteo brachyurus
A scattering of birds around Puerto Escondido, mostly over coastal thorn forest, with four on 5th, two on 6th and one on 7th.

White-tailed Hawk Buteo leucurus
A fabulous pair near Mitla (one of which caught and devoured a lizard) on 3rd and a third bird closer to Mitla later the same day. A pair south of Ocotlán on 4th as we headed away from Oaxaca City.

Zone-tailed Hawk Buteo albonotatus
Singles in the central valley on 1st and 3rd, but best seen east of Puerto Escondido on 5th.

Red-tailed Hawk Buteo jamaicensis
One to four birds daily in the Central Valley area, both in the valley and over the higher slopes. At the coast, just two on 5th. Very variable in the region, perhaps due to presence of wintering birds from elsewhere, as well as local breeders. Excellent views of a rufous or intermediate morph bird below Teotitlán del Valle.

Crested Caracara Caracara cheriway
Regular east of Oaxaca City and neighbouring villages with variable numbers daily. Max of 10+ on 29th and 3rd, otherwise single figures on a further five dates. Amazing views of an adult killing a Laughing Gull at the estuary on 5th.

American Kestrel Falco sparverius
A small scattering of roadside birds with one to four on nine dates throughout the tour. Most often seen perched on roadside poles and wires in open country. In addition, at least 15 seen on our travel day on 4th.

Merlin Falco columbarius
Super views of an adult male which flashed through the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Peregrine Falco peregrinus
A juvenile around Barra de Navidad on 5th and two adults around the lagoon on 6th. The latter did us little favour as one flushed all the ducks just as we arrived — but gave great views!

West Mexican Chachalaca Ortalis poliocephala
Somewhat elusive! One heard calling on the hairpins above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th was only seen by Mike.

Purple Gallinule Porphyrio martinica
Great views of one half way up a mangrove tree on the boat trip on 6th.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
A skulking singleton seen by some of us at the lagoon on 6th.

American Coot Fulica americana
One with the Least Grebes on the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and some 35 birds on the boat trip on 6th.

Northern Jacana Jacana spinosa
Pale yellow wings flashed at the estuary on 5th and on the boat trip on 6th. Plentiful at both sites with some great views.

Black-necked Stilt Himantopus mexicanus
Some 200+ birds at the estuary on 5th and 30+ at the lagoon on 6th.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
At least four on the beach during our boat trip on 6th.

Semipalmated Plover Charadrius semipalmatus
At least 30 birds at the estuary on 5th and 10+ at the beach during our boat trip on 6th.

Killdeer Charadrius vociferus
Two on the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd, heard at the estuary on 5th and three on the beach during the boat trip on 6th.

Collared Plover Charadrius collaris
Three at the estuary on 5th and one on the beach during the boat trip on 6th. A smart little bird.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Six with the roosting flocks at the estuary on 5th and one on the beach during the boat trip on 6th. This form lacks the white back of Old World birds and may be split as Hudsonian Whimbrel.

Greater Yellowlegs Tringa melanoleuca
Common at the coast with some 200+ around the estuary on 5th and ten or more at the lagoon on 6th.

Spotted Sandpiper Actitis macularia
Up to 12 at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle and small numbers scattered around suitable coastal sites.

Willet Catoptrophorus semipalmatus
Some 30+ birds at the estuary on 5th and 12 on the beach at the lagoon on 6th.

Sanderling Calidris alba
Just one noted at the estuary on 5th and six or so at the beach on the boat trip on 6th.

Least Sandpiper Calidris minutilla
Some 50+ at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle. Common at suitable habitats on the coast where it is the most plentiful shorebird.

Laughing Gull Larus atricilla
Widespread and abundant at the coast. The standard gull of the region.

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica
Noted by some of the group on the beach during our drinks stop at the lagoon on 6th.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
Common at the coast with double figures at the estuary on 5th and the lagoon on 6th, mostly roosting on the beach.

Elegant Tern Sterna elegans
Three picked out among a roost of Royal Terns and Laughing Gulls at the estuary on 5th and at least four in a smaller roost of gulls and terns at the lagoon on 6th.

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Around 100 at the estuary on 5th and 40+ on the beach at the lagoon on 6th.

Royal Tern Sterna maxima
Widespread and common at the coast, with roosts at suitable estuary and beach sites and good numbers ferrying to and fro offshore.

Black Skimmer Rynchops niger
Some 200 birds roosting at the estuary on 5th and at least a dozen at the lagoon on 6th.

Feral Rock Dove Columba livia
Seen daily but Oaxaca City produced the only groups of any size.

Band-tailed Pigeon Patagioenas fasciata
Two singletons seen in high Pine-Oak forest on 30th and several small parties totalling some 30 birds on the Yúvila road on 20th.

Red-billed Pigeon Patagioenas flavirostris

Around 10 seen perched high in red mangroves at the lagoon on 6th and a couple of birds in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

American Mourning Dove Zenaida macroura
Mostly small numbers seen on most dates in the central valley, plus a flock of some 40+ at Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

White-winged Dove Zenaida asiatica
Noted almost daily throughout the tour with small numbers in the central valley and larger numbers at the coast.

Common Ground-dove Columbina passerina
Rather elusive this year. Small numbers on seven dates, scattered throughout the tour with max count of 20+ east of Puerto Escondido on 5th.

Ruddy Ground-dove Columbina talpacoti
Noted daily in the Puerto Escondido area from 5th with max of 10 on 6th.

Inca Dove Columbina inca
Widespread and common throughout the tour, mostly in towns and villages and around cultivation.

White-tipped Dove Leptotila verreauxi
Seen briefly by a few of the group in dense, arid scrub above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Orange-fronted Parakeet Aratinga canicularis
One flew over the lagoon on 6th and some 50 birds, including a restless flock of 35 or so in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

White-fronted Parrot Amazona albifrons
This rather small Amazon parrot was seen at the lagoon on 5th where at least 15 birds were present. Mostly only in flight, but looked fabulous in the strong sunlight.

Squirrel Cuckoo Piaya cayana
Singles noted east of Puerto Escondido on 5th and 6th, the latter showing well to all present.

Groove-billed Ani Crotophaga sulcirostris
Just single figures seen from a moving vehicle on a couple of dates in the central valley, but plentiful on the coast with flocks of up to 15 or so seen daily there.

Lesser Ground-cuckoo Morococcyx erythropygus
Always a tricky skulker, particularly so this year as our previous best site had been cleared for a corn crop. However, a calling bird was lured into a tree and seen by most of us on 6th.

Lesser Roadrunner Geococcyx velox
One sat up in a tree to take in the early morning sun at Monte Albán on 31st — but a tad distant.

Ferruginous Pygmy-owl Glaucidium brasilianum
Are we all agreed? Great views of a calling bird late afternoon near La Ceiba on 5th and even better views of a different bird near there on 6th and 8th. This latter bird showed a number of features said to be indicative of Colima Pygmy Owl (G. palmarum) (and came in to a tape of that species), but the jury settled for it being a Ferruginous.

Lesser Nighthawk Chordeiles acutipennis
At least six seen flying over Santo Domingo church in Oaxaca City on the evenings of 31st and 3rd. One flew across the road near Puerto Escondido after dark on 5th and at least three were seen in the same area on 6th. Best of all were the four found at daytime perches in mangroves on the boat trip on 6th.

Pauraque Nyctidromus albicollis
Four silhouettes in open fields after dark near La Ceiba on 8th were acting like this species — feeding by making short sallies from the ground and back.

White-collared Swift Streptoprocne zonaris
A scattering of birds in the second half of the trip, with some 40+ over the lagoon on 6th and single figures in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Vaux's Swift Chaetura vauxi
A dozen or so near Yúvila on 1st and 20+ over the lagoon on 6th.

White-throated Swift Aeronautes saxatilis
Seen by a couple of people over the road to Yúvila on 1st.

Green Violet-ear Colibri thalassinus
A good scattering of birds at pine-oak elevation above the central valley on 29th, 1st and 4th. The almost metronomic ticking of this species is quite distinctive.

Dusky Hummingbird Cynanthus sordidus
Regular in small numbers in the hotel grounds at Oaxaca City and one or two in matorral and xeric scrub daily in the Central Valley. A distinctly slow-flying species that hovers like a helicopter!

Broad-billed Hummingbird Cynanthus latirostris doubledayi
One to two on four dates at the coast from 5th, seemingly favouring thorn scrub and edges of cultivation. The local form may be split as Doubleday's Hummingbird due to more extensive blue on underparts and crown, and dark undertail coverts.

White-eared Hummingbird Hylocharis leucotis
Common in mid to high elevation pine-oak forest and scrub, especially where large stands of flowering Salvias occur. Noted in good numbers on 30th and 1st

Cinnamon Hummingbird Amazilia rutila
Rather scarce this year with one to two on three dates at the coast. One near La Ceiba on 7th was perhaps the best bird for most of us.

Berylline Hummingbird Saucerottia beryllina
One to 10 daily in the central valley, favouring drier scrub and matorral in the valley and lower slopes.

Blue-throated Hummingbird Lampornis clemenciae
Only noted in well-vegetated gullies in pine-oak woodland with three above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and one near Yúvila on 1st.

Garnet-throated Hummingbird Lamprolaima rhami
Surprise of the tour in the hummingbird line; a juvenile perched at close range in high Pine-Oak forest on 30th was missed by some as its identity was not immediately apparent. Luckily, a second bird near La Soledad on 4th saved the day.

Magnificent Hummingbird Eugenes fulgens
Small numbers in high forest above the central valley with three on 30th and three on 1st. Also six or more in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th during our travel day.

Beautiful Hummingbird Calothorax pulcher
Four seen feeding at cactus flowers beside the road near Yagul on 3rd. Very like Lucifer Hummingbird but tends to be a little shorter- and straighter-billed and females often slightly buffy below, especially on the flanks.

Ruby-throated Hummingbird Archilochus colubris
The Archilochus hummingbirds drove us mad this year and one or two are probably best left undetermined. The best identification feature is the shape of the tip of the wing, but birds regularly perch with wing tips hidden under the tail! We seem to have settled on a male near Yúvila on 1st, at least two in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th and one near La Ceiba on 8th.

Black-chinned Hummingbird Archilochus alexandri
Much confusion with the former species. The field guides suggest that this species doesn’t reach as far south as Oaxaca, but recent studies suggest that small numbers do winter here. There is much overlap in bill length and shape and tail shape can be very hard to assess. However, two (including an adult male) were agreed upon at Monte Albán on 31st and probable singles were noted on 5th (near La Ceiba) and on 7th in the Sierra Madre del Sur.

Bumblebee Hummingbird Atthis heloisa
Yes, it really is less than three inches long!! A busy female in the scopes was followed by an outrageously approachable male in roadside Salvias, both on the Yúvila road on 1st.

Broad-tailed Hummingbird Selasphorus platycercus
Much confusion again here, with a bird along the Yúvila road on 1st at our lunch stop being perhaps this species. The presence of Broad-tails here was confirmed by the distinctive wing-buzz of an unseen passing bird.

Rufous Hummingbird Selasphorus rufus
Just one this year, at Monte Albán on 31st in the busy little corner near the car park.

Citreoline Trogon Trogon citreolus
Two near La Ceiba on 5th, two in a fruiting fig at Las Negras on 6th, two sitting out in roadside wires in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th and a singleton near La Ceiba on 8th. Rather more showy than other trogons! The absence of large trees in the area made me wonder where these birds nested, until I discovered that they nest in termitaries!

Mountain Trogon Trogon mexicanus
Always elusive, but a good number glimpsed this year in high forests above the central valley. Two above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, five beyond La Cumbre on 30th and two near Yúvila on 1st.

[Collared Trogon Trogon collaris
One showed very well in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th, but couldn’t draw people away from the Happy Wren — a leader-only.]

Belted Kingfisher Ceryle alcyon
Two at the estuary on 5th and at least 10 at the lagoon on 6th where it was by far the commonest kingfisher.

Ringed Kingfisher Ceryle torquata
A monster kingfisher, very similar to Giant Kingfisher of Africa, but seemingly less noisy!! At least three at the lagoon on 6th.

Green Kingfisher Chloroceryle americana
One at the reservoir at Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd at two at the lagoon on 6th. A medium-sized species with obvious white speckling on the wings.

Russet-crowned Motmot Momotus mexicanus
What a stunner!! The greatest mystery of the whole trip is how Daphne spotted this from a moving vehicle as it sat motionless beside the road near La Ceiba on 5th. Our awkward milling around when we turned round and presumption that it must have flown didn’t help, but then we re-found it and enjoyed full scope views.

Wagler's Toucanet Aulacorhynchus wagleri
Two seen briefly but well in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th as we searched for Happy Wrens. Another seen by Mike only at our lunch stop later the same day. Emerald Toucanet is now split into several forms.

Acorn Woodpecker Melanerpes formicivorus
One above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and at least three in the Sierra Madre del Sur at our lunch stop on 7th. The latter were attending their mad acorn collection in a large roadside pine.

Golden-cheeked Woodpecker Melanerpes chrysogenys
Small numbers of this attractive bird daily along the coast in thorn forest and scrub.

Grey-breasted Woodpecker Melanerpes hypopolius
At least two near Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, one there on 2nd and five around Yagul on 3rd. They favour large columnar cactus stands in arid areas.

Yellow-bellied Sapsucker Sphyrapicus varius
At least three seen above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and one skulking almost on the ground in high forest beyond La Cumbre on 30th.

Ladder-backed Woodpecker Picoides scalaris
Rather scarce this year with just two seen near Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Hairy Woodpecker Picoides villosus
Singles in high elevation pine or pine-oak forest beyond La Cumbre on 30th and 1st.

Grey-crowned Woodpecker Piculus auricularis
One during the busy and birdy period near La Soledad on 3rd. Very acrobatic and often seen well out on thin branches where it frequently hangs upside down to feed.

Northern Flicker Colaptes auratus cafer
One seen very briefly by David and Mike as it flew off above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th.

Lineated Woodpecker Dryocopus lineatus
Brief but good views of one flying across the lagoon on our boat trip on 6th. An impressive beast.

Spot-crowned Woodcreeper Lepidocolaptes affinis
We struggled for woodcreepers this year, with at least two birds seen poorly and not identified to species. A singleton of this species was seen by some of the group beyond La Cumbre on 30th.

Northern Beardless Tyrannulet Camptostoma imberbe
Barely made it onto the list! Just one seen by a couple of us during a birdy few minutes near La Ceiba on 8th but missed by most.

Greenish Elaenia Myiopagis viridicata
Two on the Yúvila road on 1st and one in the Sierra Madre del Sur on our travel day on 4th. Also heard calling by the reservoir at Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Pileated Flycatcher Xenotriccus mexicanus
Great views of an active bird in scrub below Monte Albán on 31st, but it disappeared before we had all had scope views.

Tufted Flycatcher Mitrephanes phaeocercus
Widespread in small numbers on higher ground around Oaxaca City with one to six on four dates and a higher count of 10 on 29th.

Greater Pewee Contopus pertinax
A showy species which perches up for all to see - hoorah! Three above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, at least three in the same area on 2nd and a couple of singletons in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th.

Western Wood Pewee Contopus sordidulus
A single bird perched out in the open at La Cumbre on 30th didn’t draw much interest!

Least Flycatcher Empidonax minimus
One seen by some above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd, then a good scattering of one to four on four dates in coastal scrub and thorn forest. Large-headed and stumpy-winged with a well-marked white eyering.

Hammond's Flycatcher Empidonax hammondii
Scarce this year with just singles on four dates, all in high pine-oak forest, on 29th, 1st, 4th and 7th.

Dusky Flycatcher Empidonax oberholseri
Widespread in the central valley area with varying numbers on five dates, maximum of 10+ on 31st around Monte Albán.

Cordilleran Flycatcher Empidonax occidentalis
Nigh on impossible to identify from Pacific-slope Flycatcher with plumages and calls seemingly identical. Perhaps soon the two will be lumped again as this seems a very tenuous split. Singles presumed to be this species (based on range and habitat) in high pine-oak forest on 29th, 1st, 4th and 7th.

Black Phoebe Sayornis nigricans
Up to four of these busy flycatchers around the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and 2nd.

Say's Phoebe Sayornis saya
Seemingly similarly tied to water, like the above species. Up to three around the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and 2nd.

Vermilion Flycatcher Pyrocephalus rubinus mexicanus
Common and widespread in and around Oaxaca City, from hotel gardens to xeric scrub and matorral throughout the central valley. Scarce at the coast with one at the estuary on 5th and a surprisingly late juvenile, showing no colour in the plumage, at our lunch stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Dusky-capped Flycatcher Myiarchus tuberculifer
Scattered throughout with singles on six dates and seen best on that early morning stop along route 175 on 30th. The dusky head does tend to stand out on this species.

Ash-throated Flycatcher Myiarchus cinerascens
Two near Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, one at Monte Albán on 31st, one at Yagul on 3rd and one near La Ceiba on 5th. Large and distinctly pale-faced.

Nutting's Flycatcher Myiarchus nuttingi
One above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, one in dry scrub along route 175 on 1st and one at Yagul on 3rd.

Brown-crested Flycatcher Myiarchus tyrannulus
Nearly missed this year, we found a last-minute pair at El Vitonchino beyond La Ceiba on 8th.

Great Kiskadee Pitangus sulphuratus
Two singletons near Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd. At the coast, seen daily from 5th in good numbers, where noisy and obvious.

Social Flycatcher Myiozetetes similis
A startling discovery of three seen and a fourth heard at Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd by David and Mike while others were rug-making. This species shouldn’t be in the central valley! At the coast, small groups of two to four seen daily from 6th to 8th.

Tropical Kingbird Tyrannus melancholicus
At Oaxaca City, only a couple of singles around the hotel grounds (where lusher tree cover presumably preferable to surrounding dry scrub). At the coast, good numbers daily with max of 35+ on 6th. A common bird along the Pacific coast, where it perches conspicuously on roadside fences, posts and wires.

Cassin's Kingbird Tyrannus vociferans
Commonest kingbird in the central valley where a conspicuous feature on roadside tree tops, cacti and wires. Noted most days to 4th with max of 15+ on 31st and 2nd. Rather small-headed with white confined to a broad face streak, meeting under the bill.

Thick-billed Kingbird Tyrannus crassirostris
One above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd, two around the lagoon on 6th and one in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th. The lack of yellow below (very pale yellow in adults), heavy black bill and sooty head are distinctive.

Western Kingbird Tyrannus verticalis
Two in the central valley on 31st (including one in the hotel grounds), one near Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and one or two roadside birds near Oaxaca on 5th. Smaller-billed than Tropical Kingbird and with a darker tail and white outer tail feathers, contrasting strongly with the back colour.

Scissor-tailed Flycatcher Tyrannus forficatus
Sadly no prolonged views this year, but nice flight views of 10 or so flying over the lagoon on 6th with a further five birds on roadside wires on the drive back to Puerto Escondido.

Rose-throated Becard Pachyramphus aglaiae
A pair in high-elevation pine-oak forest on 30th and a fine male in similar habitat on 1st. Single females at La Soledad on 4th, near La Ceiba on 6th and in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Masked Tityra Tityra semifasciata
A total of five birds seen in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th with those at Rancho El Limon showing particularly well.

Grey-breasted Martin Progne chalybea
Regular on wires around Puerto Escondido but we never really had time to stop for them. Best views were of the flock that wheeled around the little surfing café on the morning of 5th.

Mangrove Swallow Tachycineta albilinea
Scarce this year with one or two seen by Megan’s boat on the lagoon on 6th.

Violet-green Swallow Tachycineta thalassina
Common and widespread in the central valley around Oaxaca City, especially at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle. Also one or two noted near La Ceiba on 8th.

Northern Rough-winged Swallow Stelgidopteryx serripennis
A thin scattering of birds throughout. In the central valley one or two noted among Violet-green Swallows at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle and at Monte Albán. On the coast, reasonable numbers at wetland sites and along the road to La Ceiba.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
At least one at the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and a scattering of birds around the coast, especially near La Ceiba where up to 15 were regularly seen.

Buff-bellied Pipit Anthus rubescens
Up to five beside the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle. All birds were pale overall with extensive buff on underparts and weak streaking on throat and breast. Such birds are typical of the form A.r.pacificus which breeds from the Aleutians south to the nw US Rockies. (Arctic birds tend to be darker and more heavily streaked)

Ruby-crowned Kinglet Regulus calendula
A scattering of birds in high-elevation pine and pine-oak forests surrounding the Central Valley on 29th, 30th and 31st.

Grey Silky-flycatcher Ptilogonys cinereus
Quite common and seen daily at higher elevations surrounding the central valley in pine-oak and scrub oak areas, especially around berrying trees. Also occasional lower down, including an impressive afternoon movement of over 100 birds along route 175 (heading north uphill) on 3rd.

Cedar Waxwing Bombycilla cedrorum
Very noticeable this year with feeding flocks regularly in the hotel grounds at Oaxaca City and flocks passing through at various sites almost daily, both in the central valley and at the coast. Some 100+ birds passed west along the coast during our boat trip on 6th.

Grey-barred Wren Campylorhynchus megalopterus
Noisy parties of this species were seen regularly in high altitude pine-oak forest along the tracks on 29th, 30th and 1st. Big, active and noisy and often associating with Dwarf Jays.

Rufous-naped Wren Campylorhynchus rufinucha
Scattered in small numbers at lower elevation, Pacific slope thorn scrub. Noted daily from 5th to 8th with max of eight on 8th.

Boucard's Wren Campylorhynchus jocosus
Two to six on four dates in the central valley with some fabulous close views on a number of occasions.

Rock Wren Salpinctes obsoletus
At least two at Monte Albán on 31st, two on the upper outskirts of Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and four at Yagul on 3rd.

Happy Wren Thryothorus felix
One seen briefly but well by Mike and Kim at La Soledad on 4th, then at least three finally lured into the open in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Banded Wren Thryothorus pleurostictus
The road to la Ceiba proved to be the place for this species, with one there on 4th and two on 8th. However, it took some real work to ensure that the group finally clinched this super bird.

Bewick's Wren Thryomanes bewickii
One noted on several occasions in our hotel grounds at Oaxaca City and was occasionally heard in song there. Singles were also noted near the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle and at Monte Albán.

(Northern) House Wren Troglodytes aedon aedon
Two seen during our first Slaty Vireo search at Monte Albán on 31st.

(Brown-throated) House Wren Troglodytes aedon brunneicollis
Two seen in high forest along the road to Yúvila on 1st. These dusky-chested southern forms may soon be split as a separate species.

Northern Mockingbird Mimus polyglottos
A scattering of roadside birds in the central valley, mostly seen from moving vehicles. Max of 12 on 4th on our transfer day.

Ocellated Thrasher Toxostoma ocellatum
Our nemesis this year! Heard but not seen along route 175 on 29th, heard but not seen above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd — then seen briefly by those that persevered while the rest of us went down to town. Finally, a hardcore of keen thrasher-questers had brief but good views of one along route 175 on 3rd.

Curve-billed Thrasher Toxostoma curvirostre
Two in fields below Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, two in the hotel garden at Oaxaca City on 31st and singles on 2nd and 3rd at Teotitlán del Valle and Yagul respectively.

Blue Mockingbird Melanotis caerulescens
Some corking views of this often elusive species. Singles above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, La Cumbre on 30th, Monte Albán on 31st and La Soledad on 4th.

Brown-backed Solitaire Myadestes occidentalis
Quite common in mid and high-elevation pine-oak and pine forest. More often heard than seen as its call and song are very distinctive. However, two beyond La Cumbre on 30th, at least 10 near Yúvila on 1st and at least three in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th.

[Orange-billed Nightingale-thrush Catharus aurantiirostris
The most tenuous of claims on any list — a leader-only, heard-only along route 175 on 3rd!]

Russet Nightingale-thrush Catharus occidentalis
An excellent year for this ginger sprite. Three feeding on berries at La Cumbre on 30th, at least six along the Yúvila road on 1st and one in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th.

Ruddy-capped Nightingale-thrush Catharus frantzii
One with the former species at La Cumbre on 30th and two on the Yúvila road on 1st. A rather drab bird with grey-washed underparts and a contrast in colour between the crown and back.

Veery Catharus fuscescens
One of our unexpected write-ins. One feeding on berries with other thrushes at La Soledad on 4th showed extremely well. This species is a passage migrant on the Atlantic slope of Mexico, wintering in South America. So a mid-winter record on the Pacific slope is nothing short of bizarre.

Swainson’s Thrush Catharus ustulatus
Two birds feeding on berries in the thrush flock at La Soledad on 4th.

Hermit Thrush Catharus guttatus
One just above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, one at Monte Albán on 31st, two on the Yúvila road on 1st and one at La Soledad on 4th.

Black Thrush Turdus infuscatus

Some ten birds, including some smart sooty males, along the Yúvila road on 1st. Also one seen by some at La Soledad on 4th.

Clay-coloured Thrush Turdus grayi
Singles noted on three dates in the hotel grounds at Oaxaca City. Eventually seen very well there on 31st. Rarely seen on the ground, preferring to feed in the canopy on figs. Oaxaca City is somewhat isolated from the main range of this Atlantic slope species and Howell suggests the population may originate from cage bird escapes.

White-throated Thrush Turdus assimilis
One along the Yúvila track on 1st and at least three in deep shade below us at La Soledad on 4th.

Rufous-backed Thrush Turdus rufopalliatus
A cracking thrush, with one or two seen at our Oaxaca City hotel on several dates. Howell similarly suggests these are derived from escaped cage birds as the main Pacific slope population doesn’t reach the drier ground of the central valley. Elsewhere, five were feeding in the fruiting fig at Las Negras on 6th and one seen in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

American Robin Turdus migratorius
At least 20+ along the road to Yúvila on 1st then just singles at Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and along route 175 on 3rd.

Aztec Thrush Ridgwayia pinicola
We thought three was impressive last year - this year we got four! Three along the Yúvila road with other berry-eating birds on 1st (including a super adult male that posed for the whole group) then a bonus bird in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th, a juvenile with a yellow head that was presumably dusted with pollen.

Blue-grey Gnatcatcher Polioptila caerulea
Widespread and quite common, being noted on nine dates, scattered throughout the tour. Often in mixed species flocks, but also seen in small parties with the following species at the coast. Very active with lots of tail wagging going on.

White-lored Gnatcatcher Polioptila albiloris
Up to 10 noted on 5th and two on 8th, in open thorn scrub around La Ceiba. The males are really rather smart with their neat black caps contrasting with white eyebrow and blue-grey body.

Bushtit Psaltriparus minimus
A bumper year after last year’s near-miss. A half dozen bounced around us at Monte Albán on 31st, 12+ in scrub along route 175 on 1st, 12+ in dry scrub above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and a group heard but not seen on 3rd.

Mexican Chickadee Poecile sclateri
At least three in a pine stand next to the road beyond La Cumbre on 30th.

Bridled Titmouse Baeolophus wollweberi

Two in dry scrub above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and at least four in the same area on 2nd.

Brown Creeper Certhia americana
A couple of small parties, totalling some six birds along the track beyond La Cumbre on 30th.

Loggerhead Shrike Lanius ludovicianus
A small scattering of roadside birds on five dates, all in the central valley around Oaxaca City. Best views of a couple of birds on the lower fields below Teotitlán del Valle on 29th.

Steller's Jay Cyanocitta stelleri
A little elusive but four seen in pine-oak forest above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, four beyond La Cumbre on 30th and one on the Yúvila road on 1st.

White-throated Magpie-jay Calocitta formosa
Seen daily in Pacific coast thorn scrub and rough cultivation, where seemingly quite common with max day count of 12+ on 7th. A wonderful bird with a really silly hair cut.

Green Jay Cyanocorax yncas
As elusive as last year; a lunch stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th at the same location as last year provided three birds in the same banana and bamboo thicket, but they moved off quickly.

Dwarf Jay Cyanolyca nana
Well worth the wait!! After much searching, a noisy feeding party of Grey-barred Wrens and Steller’s Jays finally gave up four of these little gems along the track beyond La Cumbre on 30th. Super scope views ensued!

Western Scrub Jay Aphelocoma californica
At least four birds in open scrub on the lower slopes above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Common Raven Corvus corax
Scattered pairs throughout the central valley area with one to six daily from 29th to 4th (except 31st).

House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Rather thin on the ground but single numbers seen around hotels and cafes every day and notably common in Teotitlán del Valle.

Slaty Vireo Vireo brevipennis
A quite extraordinary year, this species just insisted on being seen this year! Two at Monte Albán on 31st, one along route 175 and one on the Yúvila road on 1st, one above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and finally one on our ‘thrasher bash’ along route 175 on 3rd.

Mangrove Vireo Vireo pallens
Two of these smart birds were seen in a mixed flock in the mangroves during our boat trip on 6th.

Bell's Vireo Vireo bellii
Two along the road to La Ceiba on 5th and another two further along the same road on 8th.

Dwarf Vireo Vireo nelsoni
Singles seen along the Yúvila road on 1st and above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Cassin's Vireo Vireo cassinii
Two on the track beyond La Cumbre on 30th, one along the Yúvila road on 1st and singles near La Ceiba on 5th and in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Blue-headed Vireo Vireo solitarius
Very smart! Singles at Monte Albán on 31st and near La Ceiba on 5th. Two in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Hutton's Vireo Vireo huttoni
All sightings in mid to high elevation pine and pine-oak forest with at least six on the Yúvila road on 1st.

Warbling Vireo Vireo gilvus
Widespread in small numbers and often a constituent of mixed flocks coming to check out the pygmy-owl calls! One to six noted on eight dates scattered throughout the tour. Much variation in plumage and perhaps both eastern and western birds were present.

Philadelphia Vireo Vireo philadelphicus
A little out of range, this species generally winters on the Atlantic slope and further south than Oaxaca. One discovered in roadside scrub along route 175 on the morning of 1st.

Golden Vireo Vireo hypochryseus
Singles noted at Monte Albán on 31st, along route 175 on 1st, above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

House Finch Carpodacus mexicanus
Widespread and common in the central valley and seen daily to 29th. Common around settlements, as well as xeric scrub and matorral. These southern Mexican birds have red restricted to forehead, supercilium and throat. Interestingly, a number of birds around our Oaxaca City hotel showed extensive red on the chest and may have originated from the cage bird trade, having been caught elsewhere in the species’ range.

Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra
Three flew all too quickly over La Cumbre on 30th, but the same spot provided a fine male in full song on 1st.

Black-headed Siskin Carduelis notata
Busy parties of 10+ showed well around La Cumbre on both 30th and 1st as we passed through the area.

Lesser Goldfinch Carduelis psaltria
Common in scrubby arable fields and cultivations in the central valley. Noted daily with max day count of 60+ on 1st. Mostly rather scruffy and plain at this time of year, but one or two smarter males seen too.

Olive Warbler Peucedramus taeniatus
This poorly understood species of uncertain affinities was a real stunner. A nice pair performed really well in high pine forest on the Yúvila road on 1st.

[Tennessee Warbler Vermivora peregrina
A single bird seen during the snack break while we were looking for hummingbirds in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th. Unfortunately a leader-only]

Orange-crowned Warbler Vermivora celata
Widespread in small numbers in the central valley and surrounding hills, usually feeding low to mid-height in scrubby bushes. Small numbers almost daily to 3rd with max day count of six on 1st.

Nashville Warbler Vermivora ruficapilla
Plentiful this year and perhaps the commonest New World warbler of the trip. Small numbers on several dates around the central valley, but far more common in the Sierra Madre del Sur and along the coast with max of 20+ on 8th along the road to La Ceiba.

Virginia's Warbler Vermivora virginiae
One to three on four dates around the central valley in arid scrub. Best views of two birds in the car park at Monte Albán on 31st.

Crescent-chested Warbler Parula superciliosa
A superb bird of mid to high elevation pine-oak forest. Three well above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, one beyond La Cumbre on 30th and three along the Yúvila road on 1st.

Yellow Warbler Dendroica petechia
Small numbers daily at the coast and on the pacific slope of the Sierra Madre del Sur. Max count of six on 8th, with all variations from drab first-winter females to snazzy adult males seen. The blank expression and yellow in the tail are good pointers.

Yellow-rumped (Audubon's) Warbler Dendroica coronata auduboni
Very common to abundant in the central valley in all habitats from hotel gardens through dry scrub to pine-oak forest. Particularly common in the hotel garden where often seen at Silk-oak flowers or hunting for insects on the ground or in stair wells! Birds with black throats are always confusing, but it is likely that this is caused by matting together and soiling of the feathers as a result of feeding on nectar. (In Europe, wintering Chiffchaffs feed at Eucalyptus flowers in the Mediterranean and the resulting feather-matting can produce an upright crest on the forehead that has the consistency of plastic!)

Black-throated Grey Warbler Dendroica nigrescens
Most birds seen on low to mid elevation slopes of dry scrub or scrub oak above Teotitlán del Valle with at least six on 29th and two on 2nd. Also one at Monte Albán on 31st.

Black-throated Green Warbler Dendroica virens
Not found in the central valley area, being restricted to the Atlantic slope and Sierra Madre del Sur. One found in the latter range on 4th at our lunch stop and two found in similar habitat on 7th.

Townsend's Warbler Dendroica townsendi
Common and seen daily around the central valley to 4th. Scattered birds in the hotel garden and scrubby areas in the valley, but much more common in mid to high elevation pine and pine-oak forest, where often the commonest warbler by far. Adult males are really quite superb, even in winter.

Hermit Warbler Dendroica occidentalis
Seen regularly in mixed species parties, mostly in mid to high elevation pine-oak and oak forest, from 29th to 1st. Max day count of 12+ on 1st on the Yúvila road. Singles noted in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th and 7th.

Yellow-throated Warbler Dendroica dominica
Rather too brief to get everyone onto it, one was feeding in palms along the sea front at Puerto Escondido during our coffee stop on the morning of 5th.

Black-and-white Warbler Mniotilta varia
Widespread but thin on the ground. One to three on nine dates scattered throughout the tour, with birds seen from high elevation pine-oak forest right down to mangroves at the coast. A real charmer.

American Redstart Setophaga ruticilla
At least three, including a nice adult male in mangroves at the lagoon on 6th. Also one seen by some on the lower slopes of the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th. Winters on the coast, but only a transient elsewhere in Oaxaca.

Northern Waterthrush Seiurus noveboracensis
One showed exceptionally well in the mangroves during a busy five minutes on our boat trip on 6th. A nice, creamy-coloured bird with streaky throat — why can’t they all be this easy!

[Louisiana Waterthrush Seiurus motacilla
One popped out onto a puddle in a little gully just above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, but there was so much else going on (including a nice Bridled Sparrow) that it zipped off and became a leader-only.]

MacGillivray’s Warbler Oporornis tolmiei
Creeps about unseen in dense cover, close to the ground, but has a ticking call like a Yellowthroat which gives it away. Once found, can be seen very well at close range. One on the car park at Monte Albán on 31st, two singletons around Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd, a total of three on our drive through the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th and one on 7th at the Happy Wren spot. Some nice adult males seen this year.

[Common Yellowthroat Geothlypis trichas
Singles briefly in thick vegetation on the boat trip on 6th and in damp ginger stands at our lunch stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th were both leader-onlys sadly.]

[Hooded Yellowthroat Geothlypis nelsoni
Waaahh! Another leader only, a male at our snack stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th.]

Wilson's Warbler Wilsonia pusilla
Small numbers seen daily, ferreting around low in thick cover, from the hotel garden at Oaxaca City to mid elevation pine-oak forest. Also noted in the Sierra Madre del Sur on both 4th and 7th, but none seen at the coast. Max day count of 10+ on 31st and 2nd. A range of plumages seen, including some excellent shiny-capped males.

Red-faced Warbler Cardellina rubrifrons
What a corker!! Two in oaks above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and singles along route 175 and along the Yúvila road, both on 1st.

Red Warbler Ergaticus ruber
What a cracker!! Regular in well-vegetated areas in mid to high elevation pine-oak and pine forest. One well above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, at least five on the track beyond La Cumbre on 30th and at least three along the Yúvila road on 1st.

Painted Redstart Myioborus pictus
Something of a let down this year, this smart bird was seen by just a few of the group in pine-oak forest above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th but disappeared all too quickly.

Slate-throated Whitestart Myioborus miniatus
One to four on seven dates in the central valley area, from lower dry scrub-covered gullies to high elevation pine-oak forest. Feeds furtively in low bushes, especially in gullies and shady corners, but its constant tail-flicking and jerky movements make it easy to locate. A great little bird.

Fan-tailed Warbler Euthlypis lachrymosa
These warblers just get better! Two rather elusive birds during the mad ten minutes at La Soledad on 4th when everything happened at once. A more obliging bird popped up in a mixed flock in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th but unfortunately, again, was not seen by all

Golden-crowned Warbler Basileuterus culicivorus
More unassuming than its congeners, but still smart. Great views of one at La Soledad on 4th.

Rufous-capped Warbler Basileuterus rufifrons
Wow!! One to 10 daily from 29th to 4th. Seen regularly in low scrubby and arid scrub areas, to the top of the scrub-oak zone above Teotitlán del Valle.

Golden-browed Warbler Basileuterus belli
Yaaarrrggh!!!! Surely bird of the trip for sheer preposterousness! A great day for this species on 30th when at least 10 were seen along the track beyond La Cumbre. Also singles seen along the Yúvila road on 1st and in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th.

Yellow-breasted Chat Icteria virens
During the mad five minutes in the mangroves on 6th, one poked its face out of the vegetation, then melted away. Also heard, but not seen, on 8th near La Ceiba.

Common Bush Tanager Chlorospingus ophthalmicus
At our lunch stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th, Daphne and Bill found one in riverine scrub on our short walk, then a second popped up opposite the road shortly after.

Hepatic Tanager Piranga flava
A nice male along route 175 on 30th, a couple of birds on the Yúvila road on 1st and a total of three birds around Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd.

Summer Tanager Piranga rubra
Only found in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th where at least five birds were tallied, the first showing well at the Rancho El Limon where we stopped for breakfast.

Western Tanager Piranga ludoviciana
By far the commonest of the tanagers with birds noted on eight dates. Scattered throughout most habitats but usually where taller fruiting or flowering trees occur. Often in figs in hotel gardens and at tourist sites, with some very smart adult males seen at a number of locations. Seen daily in Silk-oaks and figs at our Oaxaca City hotel.

Flame-coloured Tanager Piranga bidentata
A total of three birds high in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th, a male at our lunch stop and a pair at La Soledad.

Scrub Euphonia Euphonia affinis
At least three birds at Las Negras on 6th, a little distant but seen reasonably well in the scope. Euphonias have a close affinity with mistletoe. Interestingly the flowerpeckers of Asia also favour mistletoe and are very similar in appearance - though unrelated.

Blue-black Grassquit Volatinia jacarina
I thought ‘Johnny Jump-up’ would be quite common but, as last year, just a couple were seen skulking in long grass near La Ceiba on 6th.

Ruddy-breasted Seedeater Sporophila minuta
A difficult group, but a party of some 15 birds fed right out in the open on the grassy edge of the estuary on 5th, allowing the contrasting pale edges and tips to the tertials and wing coverts to be seen, as well as the pale bills.

[Blue Seedeater Amaurospiza concolor
A female in the busy flock dropping down to take ants at La Soledad on 4th. This drab, brown bird couldn’t compete with the dayglow warblers hopping all over the place and sadly became a leader-only — but probably the rarest bird of the trip! The population here is of the form relicta which may be split as Slate-blue Seedeater. However, this bird looked more like the colour of a female concolor so maybe separation is not as easy as some imply.]

Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer Diglossa baritula
One seen briefly by some of the group in a scrubby gully above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, then a skulker, preening in a dense tangle on the Yúvila road on 1st tested our imaginations to the full!

Rufous-capped Brush-finch Atlapetes pileatus
A bit of a skulker this one! One seen by David and Marian above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, one along the track beyond La Cumbre on 30th, at least three on the Yúvila road on 1st and finally, one at our snack stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th.

Chestnut-capped Brush-finch Buarremon brunneinucha
This really was a skulker this year. One right beside the track beyond La Cumbre on 30th really tested our skills as it rummaged along just below us. The trick was to find a gap and wait for it to come by!

Olive Sparrow Arremonops rufivirgatus
One seen well right beside the road to La Ceiba on 6th and another two further along the same road on 8th.

Collared Towhee Pipilo ocai
One in mid elevation oak-pine forest above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and a leader-only bird on the track beyond La Cumbre on 30th. Finally, two seen very well as they sat up in full view along the Yúvila road on 1st.

Spotted Towhee Pipilo maculatus
A small scattering of somewhat elusive birds with one to five on four dates in dry scrub in the central valley. Best views of a couple along route 175 on 30th.

White-throated Towhee Pipilo albicollis
Common and seen daily in the central valley in arid and xeric scrub, up to the lower edge of oak forest where it seems to peter out. Commonly seen in the hotel garden at Oaxaca City and around the tourist sites.

Bridled Sparrow Aimophila mystacalis
A stunner of a bunting and far better than the books show. One close bird in the little gully above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th and two found by Miriam beside route 175 on the morning of 1st.

Botteri’s Sparrow Aimophila botterii
A couple seen in the fields below Teotitlán del Valle on 29th. Plain-faced and streaky-capped with a fairly obvious eye ring.

Rufous-crowned Sparrow Aimophila ruficeps
One heard along the road above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th, two below Monte Albán on 31st and three above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd. The pale rufous head stripes and rufous back markings are distinctive.

Oaxaca Sparrow Aimophila notosticta
Missed last year, so a welcome find. Superb views of a bird feeding so close beside the track above Teotitlán del Valle on 29th that most of us couldn’t photograph it! Another three were seen briefly further up the road the same day, but disappeared up the bank.

Chipping Sparrow Spizella passerina
After one in the car park at Monte Albán on 31st, we located several busy feeding flocks, including 40+ along route 175 in dry scrub on 1st, 10+ near Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd and 20+ near Yagul on 3rd.

Clay-coloured Sparrow Spizella pallida
At least one elusive bird in the sparrow flock below Yagul on 3rd was only seen by a few. Similar to Chipping Sparrow, but with grey nape, brownish rump and pale lores.

Lark Sparrow Chondestes grammacus
Local but common where found. Seen in good numbers in the weedy fields in and around Yagul and near Teotitlán del Valle. Some great close up views of birds in hedge lines.

Savannah Sparrow Passerculus sandwichensis
Five or so feeding in a dry cat-tail stand on the estuary edge on 5th.

Grasshopper Sparrow Ammodramus savannarum
A single bird seen below Monte Albán on 31st was only seen briefly by a couple of us.

Song Sparrow Melospiza melodia
Too weird to be true! Singles seen well at Monte Albán on 31st and at the reservoir at Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd. This species doesn’t occur anywhere near this region; the closest population occurs in the central volcanic belt near Mexico City and is resident. These may represent the first records for the state of Oaxaca.

Lincoln’s Sparrow Melospiza lincolnii
A single bird seen below Monte Albán on 31st was only seen briefly by a couple of us.

Yellow-eyed Junco Junco phaeonotus
At least five seen around La Cumbre and along the track beyond on 30th and two at our snack stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 4th.

Greyish Saltator Saltator coerulescens
Two rather elusive birds in scrub at El Vitonchino, near La Ceiba on 8th.

Black-headed Saltator Saltator atriceps
Two seen very well at our breakfast stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th and another two at our lunch stop further up the same day. Easily mistaken for Green Jay but the upperparts have more of a burnished green cast.

Northern Cardinal Cardinalis cardinalis
A single female seen by most of the group (with others heard) near La Ceiba on 6th.

Rose-breasted Grosbeak Pheucticus ludovicianus
Two seen very well at our breakfast stop in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th. Typically, rather drab, without the warm tones of Black-headed Grosbeak and with a pinky bill.

Black-headed Grosbeak Pheucticus melanocephalus
A good year this year, with birds seen daily from 30th to 3rd, max of 10+ on 30th and 3rd, mostly involving busy feeding parties moving quickly through dense, arid scrub and leaf litter.

Blue Grosbeak Passerina caerulea
A good scattering of birds with one to five on five dates from 29th to 5th, including some fine adult males.

Indigo Bunting Passerina cyanea
Mostly just singles this year with one to three on five dates, scattered throughout in open, scrubby habitats and field edges. The exception was a party of at least 12 birds along the road to la Ceiba on 5th.

Orange-breasted Bunting Passerina leclancherii
Another gob-smacker! A good scattering of birds in coastal thorn scrub from 5th, with some superb males seen at close range. The only American 'bunting' which habitually tail-flicks.

[Painted Bunting Passerina ciris
A stunning (and perhaps a little silly!) male near the reservoir above Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd flew off all too quick.]

Eastern Meadowlark Sturnella magna
Two seen in the weedy fields below Teotitlán del Valle on 29th.

Great-tailed Grackle Quiscalus mexicanus
Common to abundant throughout the tour around cities and settlements. Common in hotel gardens, and also common at wetland sites. The most extraordinary site was of one seen at Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd by Mike and David which was carrying a rodent (probably a cotton rat). It is unknown whether it had caught it itself, or had scavenged it from somewhere — but it looked pretty fresh!

Bronzed Cowbird Molothrus aeneus
A large evening roost of birds was seen on the outskirts of Oaxaca City on 29th, then a scattering of sightings at the coast, including two in a tree with a Purple Gallinule on the boat trip and a pre-roost flock of 50+ near the airport on 7th.

Altamira Oriole Icterus gularis
Just a few, but well seen, and heard in song, too. Three near La Ceiba on 5th, two in the lower Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th and two near La Ceiba on 8th. Brilliant orange, large and with a relatively heavy bill.

Streak-backed Oriole Icterus pustulatus
The commonest ‘oriole’ on the Pacific slope with two to six recorded daily from 5th. Remarkably, four were seen at Yagul on 3rd (two on the road up by all of the group and two at the ruins by Mike and Hans). Bright orange with a clearly streaked back - somewhat intermediate between the two forms shown in the field guide. The birds at Yagul resembled those at the coast but were perhaps slightly less heavily streaked above.

[Hooded Oriole Icterus cucullatus
Just a leader-only bird seen in dry scrub along route 175 on the morning of 1st with other ‘orioles’.]

Baltimore Oriole Icterus galbula
A nice adult male in the mixed ‘oriole’ flock in dry scrub along route 175 on the morning of 1st. Three birds noted on the boat trip on 6th and single males on 7th in the Sierra Madre del Sur and on 8th near La Ceiba.

Bullock's Oriole Icterus bullockii
The commonest ‘oriole’ in the central valley with a good scattering of birds at flowering bushes in dry scrub throughout the central valley. Noted daily from 29th to 3rd, with max of 12+ on 1st.

Orchard Oriole Icterus spurius
Tiniest of the orioles, often feeding actively like a long-tailed warbler in tree canopies, especially around flowers. Scarce this year with just one in mangroves by the estuary on 5th and four or so along the road near La Ceiba on 8th.

Black-vented Oriole Icterus wagleri
A good scattering in the central valley with two to four on five dates, mostly in dry scrub in the valley or on the lower slopes along route 175. Not yellow as shown in the field guide, but a distinctive orange-yellow.

Audubon's Oriole Icterus graduacauda
Two in scrub along route 175 early on 30th and another two near Teotitlán del Valle on 2nd. Always seems to have a distinctive greenish cast to the yellow, giving it a banana feel.

Scott's Oriole Icterus parisorum
Rather elusive but singles seen below Monte Albán on 31st, along route 175 on 1st and in the Sierra Madre del Sur on 7th.

Yellow-winged Cacique Cacicus melanicterus
Frequent to common at the coast with odd pairs noted daily and the occasional pre-roost flock passing over in late afternoon. Many nests noted hanging in roadside trees.

Other bits and pieces

Various other beasties were seen including the following:

Cotton Rat Sigmodon sp. Several small rodents in the central valley are were probably this genus but the species is unknown.

Mexican Grey Squirrel Sciurus aureogaster Mostly seen at our Oaxaca City hotel.

Ringtail Bassariscus astutus One seen on the owl drive out of Oaxaca City by a few of the group. Probably this species, but the very similar Cacomistle (B. sumichrasti) also occurs and is best told by the shape of the ears!

Dolphin sp. Quite a few leaping offshore from our hotel were thought most likely to have been Spinner Dolphins.

Green Iguana Iguana iguana The spikey-backed beasties lounging in the mangroves at the lagoon.

Black Iguana Ctenosaura similis The dark animal on the rocks at the lagoon on 6th was most likely this species.

American Crocodile Crocodylus acutus A small beastie on the boat trip was said to be this species, rather than a Spectacled Caiman (Caiman crocodilus) which also occurs in the area.

Red-backed Tarantula Euathlus vagans One near Yúvila — all I can say is, Megan was a star!

Southern Eagle Ray Myliobatis goodei The jumping rays off the beach on 6th were certainly not Manta Rays and seem most likely to have been this species.

Butterflies

Some fabulous butterflies were seen, but sadly we do not have a guide for the species found in Mexico. The following seem likely, however:

Malachite Siproeta stelenes (photographed)

Zebra Heliconian Heliconius charithonius

Common Morpho Morpho achilles

White Morpho Morpho polyphemus luna

Red Rim Biblis hyperia

Tropical Buckeye Junonia genoveva

Monarch Danaus plexippus

Mexican Silverspot Dione moneta (photographed)

Julia Dryas iulia

Figure-of-88 Diaethria astala (photographed)

Tithorea tarricina (photographed)

Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Accreditations

Trip Report

Oaxaca Valley & Pacific coast

Love Birds Love Wildlife Love Our Tours