Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Namibia was at its best this year! Limosa is one of the few companies that times its tour at the end of the rains: the biological equivalent of the European spring. The result is that the birds are in breeding plumage and are very active throughout the day — and the Namib is relatively cool. The landscape is also very green and, after exceptional rains this year, the Namib was the best I’ve ever seen it. The overwhelming impression was of the desert in bloom and we spent two weeks soaking up the wonderful birds and biodiversity. Again, along the way, we were fortunate to see all of the Namib’s endemic and near-endemic species (most were scoped, and each member of the group had extended views of each speciality). We recorded over 260 species on the tour, although it has to be said that our emphasis was not on the list but on quality views of the characteristic species. Mammal watching was excellent with sightings of elephant, lion (9 in total!), leopard and cheetah (a mother with 2 cubs) — in fact we recorded a total of 35 mammal species. And, furthermore, we claim a world record in bustard sightings, with 5 species recorded in 25 minutes (as a bustard researcher, I don’t know anywhere else on earth where that could be repeated easily)!

And, as voted for by members of the tours, here are our:

Top Birds (in no order; each was voted bird of the day by at least one person):

With honourable mention to: Gray’s Lark, Violet Woodhoopoe, Ludwig’s Bustard, Double-banded Courser, Red-faced Mousebird, Crimson-breasted Gonolek, Secretarybird, Red-crested Bustard, Small Buttonquail, baby Southern Yellow-billed Hornbills.

Top Bird and other Animal Behaviour Experiences (as listed by trip participants, in no order):

Cheetahs, a mother and two cubs, crossing the road in front of us, and then resting under a roadside bush.

Grey Go-away Birds scoffing yellow flowers

Song flight of the Dune Lark

Hartlaub’s Francolins duetting at dawn

Black-backed Jackal sniffing out a gerbil in the sand

Banded Mongooses cooling off

Damara Dik-diks scent marking

Lizards thermal dancing on hot Namib sand

Elephant spraying itself with water

Shaft-tailed Whydahs displaying

Large numbers of Social and Chestnut Weavers

Rock-climbing by baby baboons

Gray’s Lark perched on a rock

Warthogs kneeling to feed

Pair-bonding display of the Damara Hornbill

Springboks feeding with their backs to the sun

African Scops Owls on day roost

Martial Eagle carrying a rock hyrax

Top 5 Reptiles and Amphibians

Rock Monitor Lizard

African Dwarf Python

Flap-necked Chameleon

Namibian Rock Agama

Marbled Rubber Frog

Top 10 Plants

Welwitschia on the desert plains

Mass flowering of Devil’s Thorn

Redtop Grass, resembling heather

Bushman Grass on the Namib plains

Hoodia in flower

Tricholaema on the dolerite ridge

Amaryllid lily in the desert

Star Chestnut Tree at Erongo

Cyphostemma in leaf at Spitkoppe

Rock Commiphora, the gnarled tree of the desert ridge

With honourable mention to: Camelthorn, Salvadora persica, mopane, Cleome, Desert Violets.

Top Stunning scenes:

Duetting Hartlaub’s Francolins in golden morning light

Giraffe with Etosha sunset

Huge atomic thundercloud at Etosha

Red-necked Falcon perched on a red dune ridge

Ostrich in the desert

Riverbed of yellow Devil’s Thorn flowers in the desert

Zebra in evening light at Hobatere

Baboons cliff-climbing in the evening at Erongo

Floral diversity of Spitzkoppe

Moon landscape east of Swakopmund

Welwitschias on the desert plains

Endless Damaraland views

Top Quote of the trip:

"Chattering attractive Tractrac Chats attracting tracking chaps!"

Top Malaria-prophylaxis induced dream by one of the group:

"Pet-You-Die", a euthanasia company founded by all the members of the tour and providing a service for suffering animals (no names mentioned!)

26 March 2005 Leave London Heathrow Airport, bound for Namibia.

27 March 2005 After a mid-afternoon arrival at the International Airport in Windhoek, we transferred to our accommodation to settle in. After a short rest, we headed off for late afternoon birding in the nearby Daan Viljoen Nature Reserve. Although we’d seen a few species on the drive from the airport, this was our first taste of birding in Namibia — and the rolling hills covered in acacia woodland are an excellent place to start. The birding was diverse, with excellent looks in the late afternoon light at many species including Dideric Cuckoo (male displaying to a female), Groundscraper Thrush, Icterine Warbler (on passage), Blacksmith Lapwing, Pearl-spotted Owlet (Margaret was an owl-enthusiast), Monteiro’s Hornbill (our first near-endemic bird species) and Black-chested Snake-eagle. Mammals were good, too, and we saw Greater Kudu, Red Hartebeest, Chacma Baboon and Warthog.

28 March 2005 After White-backed Mousebird (and later Bradfield’s Swift and European Bee-eater) in our lodge grounds in Windhoek, we headed down for some early morning birding at the local sewage works (what birding trip would be complete without such a stop on the itinerary?!). This oasis of uncharacteristic permanent water and greenery in a dry country attracted many species, including displaying Hottentot Teals, African Jacana, White-throated Swallow and Wattled Starlings — complete with wattles! We also saw a selection of warblers, including African Reed and the migrant European Sedge.

In mid-morning, we began the drive from the Khomas Hochland Mountains. Exploring a dry riverbed along the way gave us excellent scope views of an African Cuckoo and Southern Pied Babblers. Later on, we encountered our first Secretarybird, and Sociable Weavers with their huge communal nests. We descended the breathtaking Spreetshoogte Pass (with Brown Snake-eagle and Grey-backed Cisticola en route). Here one descends down a steep escarpment with the expanse of the Namib Desert lying below us. We arrived at Kulala Desert Lodge, situated in the open gravel plains of the Namib in the late afternoon. In the soft afternoon light, we had close looks at Rüppell’s Bustard, Grey-backed Sparrow-lark and Namaqua Sandgrouse, and a bird that we voted one of the best of the trip: a pair of Burchell’s Coursers. An adult and juvenile Lappet-faced Vulture soared effortlessly overhead. We had good views of a Spotted Eagle Owl at the floodlit waterhole in the evening.

29 March 2005 This morning was the Namib Desert experience at its best. We made a pre-dawn start to watch the sunset over the dunes, before heading closer to explore the red sands. It really is truly spectacular to be surrounded by the vast imposing red dunes, and we pottered around on the dunes, immersing ourselves in the natural history of the area. We had great views of Dune Larks (the only bird fully endemic to Namibia, although there are many other near-endemics that extend marginally into Angola) scurrying among the lower, grassier sections of the dunes. They were breeding, with the male in song flight, and another collecting nesting material from the endemic Namib Dune Grass, Stipagrostis salbucola (which only grows on the red sands). Here too we found specially-adapted tenebrionid beetles, the sandy burrows of Grant’s Golden Mole, a subterranean "swimmer" through the soft Namib sands, and a myriad of tracks from gerbils and snakes.

We enjoyed dramatic views of Gemsbok (or Southern Oryx, which is easier on the throat to pronouce! The "G" is is similar to the "ch" in loch) and Ostrich surrounded by the red dunes. Scoped views of a Red-necked Falcon perched on a dune ridge was later voted one of the sights of the trip. Burchell’s Coursers were seen well again, on the plains. We had a tea and coffee break under a large Camelthorn Acacia erioloba tree in a dry riverbed, entertained by an Acacia Pied Barbet, the local desert-adapted plants, and the spoor of Spotted Hyaena in the riverbed.

Along the vast plains along the drive to Walvis Bay, we were most impressed by the green grass in this area that is normally completely desolate. The desert scenery, with distant arid mountains, was very striking. Here too we encountered a small family group of Gray’s Larks, perched on small rocks (to escape the heat of the desert floor). We spent the night in Walvis Bay.

30 March 2005 The cold Benguela current surging up the Namibian coast results in a rich upwelling system with a profusion of marine life and endemic species. A morning pelagic trip around the large Walvis Bay in search of seabirds, seals and cetaceans yielded excellent views of Great White Pelicans flying alongside the boat, Cape Fur Seals up close and personal, Pomarine Skua and Heaviside’s Dolphins.

In the afternoon, we spent time scanning through the shorebirds along the lagoon and saltpan fringes. Greater Flamingos are always a highlight, although their numbers were relatively low this year. The waders, many of which were in nuptial plumage just prior to their northward migration, consisted of Bar-tailed Godwit, Grey Plover, Whimbrel, Greenshank. Sanderling, Curlew Sandpiper and Ruddy Turnstone, although we also picked up the much scarcer Terek Sandpiper and Chestnut-banded Plover. Damara Tern, a Benguela Current breeding endemic, was seen well. Other good birds were Hartlaub’s, Cape and Grey-headed Gulls and migrant White-winged Black Tern. The bright pink saltpans added a splash of colour. We enjoyed a largely seafood dinner at the Raft Restaurant, with the water lapping at the pier below.

31 March 2005 Today was another Namib Desert natural history experience, which Lyn rated as one of her best days in the field ever. In contrast to the red dunes, much of the Namib consists of open barren plains. In the morning, we visited one of the most bizarre plants in the world: Welwitschia (one of Margaret’s reasons for coming on the tour). This relic gymnosperm, not unlike a living fossil, is endemic to the open plains of the Namib, and in our travels to reach it, we encountered many other xerophytic plants, including Dollar Bushes Zygophyllum stapffii and a profusion of desert Xanthomaculina lichens.

We worked our way through the desert, seeing an amazing pink amarrylid lily blooming out of nothingness, Trichocaulon plants tucked amongst the dolerite stones, and a stunted and gnarled Rock Commiphora Commiphora saxatilis tree, were also highlights. The ‘moon landscape’ east of Swakopmund must rate as one of the most spectacular desert scenery in the world, and was made more meaningful by a pair of the snowy-white desert race of Tractrac Chats that approached us confidingly.

In the afternoon, after lunch under the shade of a tree in a dry riverbed (fresh German sandwiches with tomatoes, chicken, cheese and grapes!) we headed to Spitzkoppe. These huge and scenic volcanic inselbergs are the best site for one of Namibia’s trickiest endemic, Herero Chat, which we had scoped after it initially threatened to disappear for good! Perhaps even more spectacular were the mass floral displays, only seen once a decade, and the most amazing was a population of Hoodia gordonii, with its spectacular maroon red flowers and thorned stems. The bizarre tree succulents Cyphostemma currorri and Aloe dichotoma were in leaf. It was upon leaving here that we set our world record (any challengers?) for the most bustard species seen in 25 minutes: we had Rüppell’s, Kori, Ludwig’s, White-winged and Red-crested Bustard all in quick succession. This was especially unusual, even for Namibia, but the good rains had resulted in the irruption of Ludwig’s (excellent views!) and Kori Bustards into this area. Night at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, arriving in time for a late dinner.

1 April 2005 Erongo Wilderness Lodge is set in truly spectacular surroundings and is one of my favourites in Africa. Imposing granite whalebacks surround the entire area, and each luxury tented suite is set privately among the boulders. Rosy-faced Lovebirds provided an early morning splash of colour. Our search for the near-endemic Rockrunner eventually revealed good views. The charismatic and endemic White-tailed Shrikes were seen well. We had a relaxed day, watching the water baths where we saw both Black-faced and Violet-eared Waxbills, and strolling around near the lodge where we saw Pale-winged and Cape Glossy Starlings, and Grey Go-away-birds. Our first Rüppell’s Parrots were in a nearby river bed, where we also saw Crimson-breasted Gonolek and White-browed Scrub-Robin. We had close views of the curious Dassie Rat, the only member of its unique rodent family, and the brightly-coloured Namibian Rock Agamas. The highlight of the afternoon walk was a family group of Chacma Baboons rock climbing (the babies were really struggling)!

2 April 2005 We spent the early morning watching and waiting for Hartlaub’s Francolin, eventually obtaining excellent views of this endemic. We watched a pair duetting for about half an hour, with the golden morning light on the birds and the huge boulders in the background. What a magical moment! John obtained excellent video. In mid-morning we began the long drive to Hobatere concession on the western edge of Etosha National Park. En route, a Cheetah with two cubs crossed the road in front of us, and rested in a nearby bush. This wasn’t even in a protected area! This is one of the joys of Namibia, with its vast, sparsely populated landscape. We birded on the plains east of the Brandberg where a calling Benguela Long-billed Lark caused us to stop. We had excellent scope views, and saw more desert plants, and the thermal-dancing lizard, lifting alternate legs off the hot sand. Displaying and nesting Chestnut Weavers close to the roadside were dazzling.

The whole drive to Hobatere was a pleasure with wonderful escarpment and mopane scenery. We arrived at the lodge in the early evening in high spirits, after having seeing our first Lion en route, just 5 metres away from the car initially! We surprised him in his tracks at dusk, and he retreated 30 m back and watched us from a bush. The night drive after dinner proved excellent, with close views of Fiery-necked and Rufous-cheeked Nightjars that we were able to catch while they were mesmerised in the spotlight beam. All these birds were measured and banded as part of an ongoing research project being carried out by the lodge owner and naturalist, Steven Braine.

3 April 2005 Today combined mammal watching with excellent birds. Birding highlights on our early morning drive in the open-topped vehicle included two African Scops Owls perched nearby in a tree, Verreaux’s Eagle Owl at a day-roost, White Helmetshrike and a Monotonous Lark at its nest, as well as the recently-split Damara Hornbill at breakfast. Mammals included Hartmann’s Mountain Zebra, Gemsbok, Springbok, Kudu and Black-backed Jackal.

In the late afternoon, after a rest during the heat of the day, we climbed into the open-top vehicle again (the perfect birding experience). Highlights were herds of Hartmann’s Mountain Zebras in the late afternoon light, close views of Dusky Larks, a male Small Buttonquail (known as Andalusian Hemipode in European bird books) and his chick, and a Double-banded Sandgrouse. After dinner, we watched Marbled Rubber Frogs at night in the pool!

4 April 2005 The morning began with another excellent mammal and birding drive after breakfast. Bateleur was seen well, and reptile highlights were the giant Rock Monitor Lizard and close views of Flap-necked Chameleon. Beautiful rocky gorges and aposematically-marked meloid beetles also added to the drive.

We drove through to Tandala Ridge Nature Reserve for lunch, where we were met by our only rain of the trip: a downpour for half and hour. Tim and Laurel, Alaskan biologists who have been living in Africa for decades, proved excellent company and we had a relaxed early afternoon sitting on the porch, having lunch and later assisting to ring three chicks of Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill in a nest that they had been monitoring. We took a late afternoon drive to Okaukeujo Rest Camp in Etosha.

5 April 2005 Etosha was a lush green wonderland and the recent rains had transformed this often dry and dusty area into a profusion of life. Birds and other animals were everywhere, although because all the waterholes were full of water, waiting for sightings of drinking animals proved slower than usual. Birding in Okaukeujo Camp was good with close Sociable Weavers and Southern Ground Squirrels. A pre-breakfast drive produced a pair of Tawny Eagles and another Pygmy Falcon. The open plains near the camp had large numbers of mammals and we spent some time watching Burchell’s Zebras, Blue Wildebeest, Springbok and Gemsbok. Larks on the plains included Pink-billed (one of the toughest Southern African endemics), Red-capped, a small family group of Spike-heeled, and good views of male Chestnut-backed Sparrow-larks. Further searching produced Capped Wheatear and Double-banded Courser, although the Secretarybirds and Kori Bustards must have been the highlight of that morning.

We arrived at the next camp, Halali, in time for a light lunch snack, and spent some time exploring the camp before having a rest in the middle of the afternoon. Highlights here were close views of the resident African Scops Owl and Southern White-faced Owl on their day-roosts, and excellent views of a family party of Violet Woodhoopoes. A Lesser Bushbaby entertained us at night, hopping in a tree.

6 April 2005 The birding in Halali, the quietest of the restcamps in Etosha, got off to an excellent start with extended views of a family group of Bare-cheeked Babblers foraging and preening in the morning sun. Southern White-crowned Shrikes were also active. We drove slowly from Halali to Namutoni, stopping at waterholes and taking small wildlife-watching detours. Again, the Kori Bustards were impressive, and we saw our first Blue Cranes (with their suitably elegant flowing tails). Large numbers of Giraffe were a mammal highlight, as were more Lions that we watched resting under some acacias.

We had a relax in the afternoon, and then headed out again once it was getting cooler. Fisher’s Pan, on the eastern edge of Etosha, was full of water and waders and waterfowl were there in great numbers. Highlights included Black-winged Stilts, Marabou Stork, Ruff, Curlew and Wood Sandpipers, Red-billed and Cape Teals, Southern Pochard and Cape Shoveler. Sundowners were enjoyed on the patio of our chalet, before heading through to the excellent buffet dinner.

7 April 2005 Today we were based from Namutoni, first doing a mammal drive in the morning, and then another in the late afternoon. The middle of the day was spent relaxing around camp, watching and photographing the enchanting Banded Mongooses, Warthogs, Blue Waxbills and Long-tailed Paradise Whydahs. The highlights of our early morning drive were Elephant, with one individuall enthusiastically washing himself at a waterhole, the dainty Damara Dik-dik, three Lions in the early morning, stunning male Shaft-tailed Whydahs in display, and a juvenile Great Spotted Cuckoo.

We had the privilege of a seldom-experienced dusk drive, with breathtaking views of Elephant, Spotted Hyaena, and a truly memorable sunset with lines of Giraffe breaking the orange horizon. Not to mention the high-jump championships later that evening!

8 April 2005 We opted again for the "Dik-dik" loop drive south of Namutoni before breakfast, and it proved excellent for both bird and mammal behavioural experiences. We had excellent looks again at Damara Dik-dik, this time of a pair scent-marking their territory with the glands just below their eyes. We also saw a Pearl-spotted Owlet being mobbed by a stunning male African Golden Oriole! Another highlight was the point-blank views of a pair of Grey Go-away-birds enthusiastically devouring the yellow flowers of the Devil’s Thorn.

After breakfast, at a short stop at a nearby lodge, we had excellent views of Black-backed Puffback and we were lucky to find a confiding group of Black-faced Babblers (with their striking pale eyes and black masks) — a very localised species. We drove southwards to Okonjima, where we arrived in time for the late afternoon mammal drive. Okonjima is home to the Africat Foundation, a conservation body looking at farmer/felid interactions. On the afternoon drive we radio-tracked a Leopard and managed to spot it striding through the grass. Had it not been for the radio collar, it would surely have gone undetected!

9 April 2005 We had a very relaxed day, leaving Okonjima after a long breakfast and trip discussion for the return drive to Windhoek and the airport. A final highlight was an African Dwarf Python spotted by Margaret on the path! John obtained good video of Bushveld Elephant-Shrew. The return drive was through attractive scenery with rolling hillsides of acacia savanna. We arrived at the airport three hours in advance of our flights, where we relaxed, waiting for check-in with a light lunch and did a trip "debriefing".

10 April 2005 Arrive back in chilly England. The long task of editing photos and videos begins!

Ostrich Struthio camelus
A total of 35 seen in one day on the desolate plains of the Namib/Naukluft Park on the road from Sossusvlei to Walvis. Also seen in Etosha National Park.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Low numbers seen at Daan Viljoen, Windhoek Sewage Works and Etosha.

Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus
Seen in the vicinity of Walvis Bay (about 100), especially on the boat trip.

Cape Gannet Morus capensis
About 10 birds seen at sea from Walvis Bay.

White-breasted Cormorant [Great] Cormorant Phalacrocorax lucidus
Recorded at Walvis Bay (about 30 birds).

Cape Cormorant Phalacrocorax capensis
Thousands seen along the coast near Walvis Bay, often seen in flight across the ocean; also at the offshore guano platform (also known as Bird Island) near Long Beach. A southern African near-endemic.

Long-tailed [Reed] Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus
Two seen at the Windhoek Sewage Works.

African Darter Anhinga rufa
Six seen well at Daan Viljoen and the Windhoek Sewage Works.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Several noted along the coast at Walvis Bay but also seen at the Windhoek Sewage works.

Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala
A single bird seen in Etosha was the only record for the trip.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Up to 10 seen around Walvis Bay.

Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
A single bird seen in Etosha was the only record for the trip.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Recorded in small numbers around Windhoek and Etosha National Park.

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides
Two birds was seen at Windhoek Sewage Works.

Striated (Green-backed) Heron Butorides striata
A single bird was seen at Windhoek Sewage Works.

Abdim’s Stork Ciconia abdimii
A flock of 4 birds between Brandberg and Hobatere and one in the Etosha National Park.

Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis
One juvenile seen in the evening near Namutoni.

Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus
A total of 3 birds were seen close to Namutoni in Etosha National Park.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
A flock of approximately 26 birds noted at Fishers Pan near Namutoni.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus
Many thousands seen in the Walvis Bay lagoon area; 4 seen at Fisher’s Pan.

Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus
Recorded in small numbers at Windhoek and in Etosha.

South African Shelduck Tadorna cana
Four seen on the second day, and 2 seen in at Fisher’s Pan in Etosha. A southern African endemic.

Cape Teal Anas capensis
Two seen at Walvis Bay; 14 at Fisher’s Pan in Etosha.

Red-billed Duck Anas erythrorhyncha
Recorded in small numbers in Windhoek and larger numbers at Fisher’s Pan in Etosha.

Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota
Six seen at one at Windhoek Sewage Works, and 1 at Fisher’s Pan in Etosha.

Cape Shoveler Anas smithii
Seven at Fisher’s Pan in Etosha. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma
Six birds at Fisher’s Pan in Etosha.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus
One at Windhoek Sewage Works, one near Namutoni in Etosha.

Black (Yellow-billed) Kite Milvus [migrans] parasitus
A few seen in eastern Etosha.

White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus
Between 3 and 4 birds seen almost each day on the northern part of the trip, especially in Etosha. One seen on the second day.

Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus
First seen near Sossusvlei (2 seen soaring exceptionally well), and 3 seen in Etosha.

Black-chested Snake Eagle Circaetus pectoralis
A total of 8 seen across the entire country; including on the first day at Daan Viljoen.

Brown Snake-Eagle Circaetus cinereus
One on Spreetshoogte, one at Hobatere.

Bateleur Terathopius ecaudatus
A total of 5 seen at Hobatere and Etosha, including a pair scoped near the nest at Hobatere.

Pale Chanting Goshawk Melierax canorus
Widespread throughout seen on most days of the tour. Southern African near-endemic.

Gabar Goshawk Melierax gabar
Only two seen, one on the second day and one in Etosha.

Shikra Accipiter badius
Seen almost every day on the north of the trip.

Augur Buzzard Buteo augur
One seen well at Hobatere.

Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
Four seen well, in Etosha.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
A single bird seen well near Spreetshoogte Pass.

Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus
One seen in flight with a hyrax (mimicking an Osprey!) near the Brandberg and another seen in Etosha.

Secretary-bird Sagittarius serpentarius
One seen on the drive to Sossusvlei and a total of four birds seen in Etosha, seen very well and watched for some time.

Pygmy Falcon Polihierax semitorquatus
One seen on the drive to Sossusvlei and another in Etosha.

Common (Rock) Kestrel Falco (tinnunculus) rupicolis
Widespread throughout especially in rocky or mountainous terrain. Not seen in Etosha.

Greater Kestrel Falco rupicoloides
Four birds seen near Sossusvlei and six birds seen in Etosha.

Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera
One seen perched on a dune at Sossusvlei.

Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo
One seen at our accommodation in Windhoek.

A single bird seen ay Spitzkoppe, and another in Etosha.

Hartlaub's Francolin Pternistis hartlaubi
Spectacular views of at least 2 pairs duetting at dawn at Erongo. A major trip highlight! A southern African near-endemic.

Red-billed Francolin Pternistis adspersus
Widespread, with up to 20 seen on one day. A southern African near-endemic.

Swainson’s Francolin Pternistis swainsonii
Two seen very well near Halali, with some guineafowl.

Harlequin Quail Coturnix delegorguei
This "rains migrant" heard calling at night at Hobatere.

Helmeted Guineafowl Numida meleagris
Between 1 and 100 of Africa’s mascot bird were seen each day in the northern parts of the tour.

Small Buttonquail Turnix sylvatica
This "rains migrant" heard calling at night at Hobatere, and a male and a chick were seen very well before they skulked off into the grass on our afternoon drive.

Blue Crane Anthropoides paradisea
A total of four individuals of this crane, were seen in Etosha. Southern African endemic.

Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris
A single juvenile bird seen well at Windhoek Sewage Works.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Recorded at Daan Viljoen, Windhoek Sewage Works and at in Etosha.

Red-knobbed [Crested] Coot Fulica cristata
Small numbers seen near Namutoni in Etosha; up to 20 seen at the Windhoek Sewage Works.

Kori Bustard Ardeotis kori
We saw a total of 46 of this spectacular species, the world’s largest flying bird, in Etosha National Park, and one flying near Spitzkoppe.

Ludwig's Bustard Neotis ludwigii
Two seen well near Spitzkoppe, one in flight and one on the ground. A southern African near-endemic.

Rüppell’s Bustard Eupodotis rueppellii
A total of 7 of this attractive species seen in the desert areas of Sossusvlei, the Namib Nauklauft Park and near Spitzkoppe. A near-endemic to southern African.

Red-crested Bustard Eupodotis ruficrista
Heard calling regularly in the northern areas, but only seen at two places, at Omaruru and in Etosha. A female and a chick seen south of Windhoek on Day 2. A near-endemic to Southern Africa.

Northern Black [White-quilled] Bustard Eupodotis afraoides
Many of this striking bustard seen at Etosha; one seen near Spitzkoppe. An endemic to Southern Africa.

African Jacana Actophilornis africana
Two seen well at Windhoek Sewage Works.

African Black Oystercatcher Haematopus moquini
Two seen at Walvis Bay; leader only. A southern African endemic.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Recorded in small numbers at Walvis Bay and larger numbers at Fisher's Pan.

Water Thick-knee [Dikkop] Burhinus vermiculatus
Between 3-7 at the Namutoni waterhole.

Spotted Thick-knee [Dikkop] Burhinus capensis
A total of 2 seen at night, mainly at night, at Tandala and Etosha.

Burchell’s Courser Cursorius rufus
Two pairs seen well at Sossusvlei: one of the bird highlights of the trip! Southern African near endemic.

Temminck’s Courser Cursorius temminckii
A single bird flying in Etosha, near Rietfontein waterhole.

Double-banded Courser Rhinoptilus africanus
Excellent bird! First seen near Spitzkoppe at the Hoodia spot, and another 10 seen in Etosha.

Blacksmith Lapwing Vanellus armatus
Small numbers seen on the edge of water on many days of the trip, highest numbers in Etosha.

Crowned Lapwing Vanellus coronatus
Widespread in open, grassy areas especially in Etosha, up to 10 seen on some days in Etosha.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
Approximately 200 seen at Walvis Bay.

Common Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula
Only 1 at Walvis Bay.

Three-banded Plover Charadrius tricollaris
Small numbers recorded at Daan Viljoen, Windhoek Sewage Works, Hobatere and Etosha.

White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus
At least 50 seen at Walvis Bay; 1 at Fisher’s Pan.

Chestnut-banded Plover Charadrius pallidus
Five found at Walvis Bay and scoped well!

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
About 20 in the Walvis Bay lagoon, mostly in brick-red nuptial plumage.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
Only 2 seen, at Walvis.

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Approximately 10 at Walvis Bay, and 120 at Fisher's Pan near Namutoni.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Small numbers at Daan Viljoen and Windhoek Sewage Works, but a total of 120 at Fisher’s Pan.

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus
One with its distinctive upturned bill seen well on one of the lagoons at Walvis Bay.

Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos
Two at Windhoek Sewage Works.

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres
Only 5 at Walvis.

Sanderling Calidris alba
Roughly 100 at Walvis Bay; much less than previous years.

Little Stint Calidris minuta
About 100 at Walvis Bay, and 1 at Fisher’s Pan.

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea
Common at Walvis Bay with about 200 seen; also 215 at Fisher’s Pan.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax
About 50 seen at Windhoek Sewage Works, 10 seen at Walvis Bay and at least 500 on Fisher’s Pan in the Etosha.

Pomarine Skua Stercorarius pomerinus
One seen on the Walvis Bay boat trip.

Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus
One seen at sea at Walvis Bay.

Kelp Gull Larus [dominicanus] vetula
Common along the coast near Walvis Bay; about 150 recorded. Some field guides split this near endemic subspecies to southern Africa as Cape Gull.

Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus
One recorded at Walvis Bay.

Hartlaub's Gull Larus hartlaubi
Very common in and around Walvis. A southern African endemic.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
A total of 10 seen at Walvis Bay.

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis
Three seen on the Walvis Bay boat trip.

Swift [Crested] Tern Sterna bergii
Common on the Walvis Bay boat trip.

Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Only about 100 seen at Walvis Bay; most must have departed for the northern hemisphere.

Damara Tern Sterna balaenarum
Good numbers (30) seen at Walvis Bay — the diminutive tern speciality of the area with its distinctive call.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida
Three stunning birds at Fisher’s Pan.

White-winged Tern Chlidonias leucopterus
One roosting at Walvis Bay.

Namaqua Sandgrouse Pterocles namaqua
Many seen near Sossusvlei. A southern African near-endemic.

Double-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles bicinctus
A total of about 4 birds seen, at Hobatere. Drinks in the early evening. A southern African near-endemic.

Burchell’s Sandgrouse Pterocles burchelli
Two birds flushed at Okonjima.

Feral Rock Dove Columba livia
Recorded around Walvis town.

Speckled (Rock) Pigeon Columba guinea
Small numbers seen each day on the southern, rockier part of the trip.

Ring-necked [Cape Turtle] Dove Streptopelia capicola
Abundant and widespread, recorded daily.

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis
Almost as common than the latter throughout.

Emerald-spotted Wood Dove Turtur chalcospilos
Heard at Namutoni and Okonjima.

Namaqua Dove Oena capensis
Widespread in small numbers, especially numerous in the western areas of Etosha.

Rosy-faced Lovebird Agapornis roseicollis

Two individuals of this attractive species were initially at Spitzkoppe, but the greatest numbers were seen at Erongo Wilderness Lodge. A southern African near-endemic.

Rüppell’s Parrot Poicephalus rueppellii
Five seen near Erongo Wilderness Lodge, and a total of 4 at Hobatere.

Grey Go-away-bird [Lourie] Corythaixoides concolor
Widespread in small numbers, but very common at Namutoni. Seen eating the yellow Devil’s Thorn flowers here.

Great Spotted Cuckoo Clamator glandarius
Two juveniles seen exceptionally well in Etosha.

African Cuckoo Cuculus gularis
One seen very well at the bridge on Day 2.

Klaas’s Cuckoo Chrysococcyx klaas
Heard at Erongo.

Dideric Cuckoo Chrysococcyx caprius
Two seen really well in Daan Viljoen, heard in small numbers.

Barn Owl Tyto alba
Heard at Erongo.

Southern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis granti
One seen particularly well in Halali restcamp in Etosha.

African Scops Owl Otus senegalensis
Seen very well on the day roost at Hobatere and in Halali restcamp in Etosha.

Spotted Eagle Owl Bubo africanus
One seen at the Sossusvlei waterhole at night.

Verreaux’s Eagle Owl Bubo lacteus
Two seen during the day at Hobatere.

Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum
Seen very well at Daan Viljoen, the bridge, and Namutoni.

Rufous-cheeked Nightjar Caprimulgus rufigena
One seen at Hobatere on the night drives; we caught and banded it as part of a ringing scheme. Also seen at Sossusvlei.

Fiery-necked Nightjar Caprimulgus pectoralis
One seen at Hobatere on the night drives; we caught and banded it as part of a ringing scheme. Also seen at Sossusvlei.

Freckled Nightjar Caprimulgus tristigma
Two seen at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, early in the morning.

African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus
Widespread near palms.

Alpine Swift Apus melba
One Sossusvlei, one Erongo.

Bradfield's Swift Apus bradfieldi
Fifty seen at Windhoek Sewage Works on the second day; 10 seen at Hobatere. A southern African near-endemic.

Little Swift Apus affinis
Reasonable numbers, mainly in the south (such as on arrival at the airport!).

White-rumped Swift Apus caffer
Small numbers seen in the south only.

White-backed Mousebird Colius colius
Very common in the Windhoek area (about 30 in total). A southern African endemic.

Red-faced Mousebird Colius indicus
Small numbers at Erongo and Namutoni.

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus
Widespread in medium numbers throughout, including at our accommodation in Windhoek.

Madagascar (Olive) Bee-eater Merops apiaster
One seen flying alongside the road during a stop south of Kamanjab.

European Bee-eater Merops apiaster
Twenty seen in Windhoek.

Lilac-breasted Roller Coracias caudata
Very common in the north of the country, especially Etosha.

Rufous-crowned (Purple) Roller Coracias naevia
Small numbers from woodlands throughout.

African Hoopoe Upupa africana
A total of only 5 seen, throughout the trip.

Violet Wood-hoopoe Phoeniculus damarensis
Family groups of this characterful species were seen at Hobatere and Halali restcamp in the Etosha. A southern African near-endemic.

Common Scimitarbill Rhinopomastes cyanomelas
Widespread in small numbers, seen for the first time at Hobatere.

Monteiro's Hornbill Tockus monteiri
Seen in small numbers throughout woodland, including amazing views on our first day in Daan Viljoen. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus
Common at Namutoni.

Damara Red-billed Hornbill Tockus damarensis
This new split was seen at Erongo Wilderness Lodge, Hobatere (very common) and Halali camp. Southern African near-endemic.

Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill Tockus leucomelas
Small numbers throughout. A near-endemic to Southern Africa.

African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus
Widespread and reasonably common in the central and northern areas; avoiding attempts at a scoped view!

Acacia Pied Barbet Lybius leucomelas
Small numbers seen throughout the trip, seen especially well for the first time at Sossusvlei and Erongo. A southern African near-endemic.

Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor
One seen poorly at Hobatere.

Golden-tailed Woodpecker Campethera abingoni
Just one seen at Hobatere.

Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens
One seen in Etosha.

Bearded Woodpecker Dendropicos namaquus
One heard at Okonjima.

Monotonous Lark Mirafra passerina
Heard for the first time at Hobatere, this incessant caller was present across most of Etosha and at least 5 were heard on most days; seen near at the nest at Hobatere.

Rufous-naped Lark Mirafra africana
Heard only, near Namutoni.

Sabota Lark Calendulauda sabota
Very common, seen on most days of the tour with most being recorded between Hobatare and in Etosha. Two forms of this species occur and these are sometimes split as separate species, large-billed Bradfield's Lark M. naevia in the west and true Sabota Lark Mirafra sabota in the east; the boundary between the forms is not well defined. A near-endemic to Southern Africa.

Fawn-coloured Lark Calendulauda africanoides
Seen well at Okonjima.

Dune Lark Calendulauda erythrochlamys
Spectacular views on the towering red dunes at Sossusvlei. Namibia's only true endemic. Nesting building.

Dusky Lark Pinacorys nigricans
We had fantastic, point-blank views of up to 5-10 of this unpredictably irruptive species at Hobatere; a few also seen near Namutoni. Banded at night.

Karoo Long-billed Lark Certhilauda subcoronata
Heard in the south. Southern African endemic.

Benguela Long-billed Lark Certhilauda benguelensis
Great views of a single bird seen just east of the Brandberg, near the Cheetah spot, on the road to Hobatere. Southern African near-endemic.

Spike-heeled Lark Chersomanes albofasciatus
Large numbers seen in the western part of Etosha; two on the road to Sossusvlei. A southern African near-endemic.

Chestnut-backed Sparrow-lark [Finch-lark] Eremopterix leucotis
About 30, including smart males, seen near Okaukeujo.

Grey-backed Sparrow-lark [Finch-lark] Eremopterix verticalis
Good numbers seen throughout in open habitats. A near-endemic to Southern Africa.

Gray's Lark Ammomanopsis grayi
This desert species, which only occurs in the harshest of conditions, was seen on the edge of the road while driving between Sossusvlei and Walvis, standing on a rock. We also near them displaying pre-dawn at Sossusvlei. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Red-capped Lark Calandrella cinerea
Common on the open plains of Etosha National Park.

Pink-billed Lark Spizocorys conirostris
Small numbers seen in grassland in Etosha, including close views. A southern African near-endemic.

Stark's Lark Spizocorys starki
Seen near Spitzkoppe. A southern African near-endemic.

Banded Martin Riparia cincta
Twelve at Hobatere.

Rock Martin Ptyonoprogne fuligula
Recorded almost every day in small numbers, often near its favoured nest sites in rocky outcrops and buildings.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Medium numbers seen on almost every day.

White-throated Swallow Hirundo albigularis
Three seen at Windhoek Sewage Works.

Greater Striped Swallow Hirundo cucullata
About 30 in the vicinity of Windhoek on the first day; also Erongo. A southern African near-endemic (breeding endemic).

Lesser Striped Swallow Hirundo senegalensis
A total of six seen briefly; on the drive from Okonjima to Windhoek on the last day.

Rufous-chested Swallow Hirundo semirufa
Only two seen briefly; on the drive from Okonjima to Windhoek on the last day.

House Martin Delichon urbicum
About 1000 seen at Hobatere, clearly on passage to Europe from further south. Also 5 in Windhoek and 50 at Okonjima.

Cape Wagtail Motacilla capensis
Small numbers in the south, especially Walvis Bay.

Grassland [African] Pipit Anthus cinnamomeus
Common in Etosha National Park; also seen Hobatere.

Buffy Pipit Anthus vaalensis
Two birds at Hobatere and another 4 in Etosha were probably this species. The taxonomy of the large African pipits has yet to be confirmed.

Red-eyed Bulbul Pycnonotus nigricans
Widespread and common. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Groundscraper Thrush Psophocicla litsitsirupa
Seen first at Daan Viljoen and then throughout the trip; a total of 17.

Rattling Cisticola Cisticola chiniana
Two seen at Hobatere; heard from then onwards.

Red-headed (Grey-backed) Cisticola Cisticola subruficapillus
One seen well at Spreetshoogte.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis
Seen at Windhoek Sewagw Works and Hobatere.

Desert Cisticola Cisticola aridula
Heard and seen in the grasslands at Etosha.

Black-chested Prinia Prinia flavicans
Widespread, small numbers in south but very common in Etosha.

Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata
First seen at Erongo (4), then at Namutoni and Okonjima.

Barred Wren-warbler Calamonastes fasciolatus
This skulker was seen heard on most days of the trip and seen well at Okonjima. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

European Sedge Warbler Acrocephalus schoenobaenus
Heard and seen at Windhoek Sewage Works.

African Reed Warbler Acrocephalus baeticatus
Heard and seen at Windhoek Sewage Works.

Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris
Heard calling from a thicket at Okonjima.

Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina
One at Daan Viljoen, and another three seen on passage throughout.

Yellow-bellied Eremomela Eremomela icteropygialis
Seen well in the top of a bush at Spitzkoppe.

Burnt-necked Eremomela Eremomela usticollis
Seen very well at the bridge on Day 2.

Long-billed (Cape) Crombec Sylvietta rufescens
Seen at Namutoni rest camp and Okonjima.

Willow Warbler Phyllscopus trochilus
Low numbers throughout.

Chestnut-vented Tit-babbler Parisoma subcaeruleum
Small numbers in acacia trees, seen on half the days of the trip. Seen very well at the bridge on Day 2.

Chat Flycatcher Bradornis infuscatus.
Many (20) seen on the drive on Day 2. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Marico Flycatcher Bradornis mariquensis
Large numbers in Etosha and at Okonjima. A near-endemic to Southern Africa.

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata
One Erongo, one Etosha.

White-browed Scrub-robin Cercotrichas leucophrys
Heard at Erongo, Namutoni and Okonjima, and seen in the riverbed at Erongo.

Kalahari Scrub-robin Cercotrichas paena
Seen well at Okonjima.

Herero Chat Namibornis herero
One seen very well in the scope, sitting on a low tree at Spitzkoppe. A near-endemic to Southern Africa.

Mountain Wheatear Oenanthe monticola
Small numbers seen in rocky areas in the south. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Capped Wheatear Oenanthe pileata
Small numbers in open areas (first on the drive from Sossusvlei-Walvis; common near Okaukeujo, Etosha.

Karoo Chat Cercomela schlegelii
One seen on the Sossusvlei-Walvis drive.

Tractrac Chat Cercomela tractrac
Two very confiding pairs seen well on Welwitschia Drive. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Familiar Chat Cercomela familiaris
Small numbers throughout, often near rocky areas.

Southern Ant-eating Chat Myrmecocichla formicivora
Six seen on the drive from from Windhoek-Sossusvlei; medium numbers in Etosha. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Pririt Batis Batis pririt
Seen well in the riverbed on Day 2. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

White-tailed Shrike Lanioturdus torquatus
This characterful bird seen well at Erongo, with small numbers in Hobatere. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Rockrunner Achaetops pycnopygius
Finally seen well at Erongo, after hearing it a number of times. A near-endemic to southern Africa.

Black-faced Babbler Turdoides melanops
A small group seen well at Mokuti Lodge.