Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Day 1. Saturday 18 September. The group convened at London’s seriously overcrowded Heathrow airport at 1:30 ready for our flight to Beijing. With a good tail wind, we anticipated an early arrival.

Day 2. Sunday 19 September. Our flight did, indeed, arrive ahead of schedule at 9:00 in the morning and Jesper, our local host and bird guide was on hand to meet us and take us to the awaiting bus. The drive to Beidaihe took most of the expected four hours, through which most of us slept soundly. We arrived at Beidaihe in time for lunch and our first introduction to the art of chopstick management! Some struggled, others didn’t try, but nobody starved. Soon the birding started, and with plenty of gulls in view on the adjacent Sandflats, what better place to begin. Amongst the masses of Black-headed Gulls, Black-tailed and Vega Gulls were conspicuous, but by diligently searching through them, we soon located a few Heuglin’s and Common Gulls, and the holy grail of gull aficionados; several first-winter Relict Gulls, a surprisingly distinctive species. An offshore party of eclipse-plumage ducks turned out to be mostly Falcated Ducks, but with them were several Baikal Teal and a couple of Garganey —a better start would be more difficult to imagine! Returning to the hotel, we bumped into numerous shorebirds feeding on an algal mat and giving really close views. Although some were familiar, such as Kentish, Little Ringed and Grey Plovers, others were very new and exciting indeed. These included Lesser Sand and Pacific Golden Plovers, several juvenile Red-necked Stints, Broad-billed Sandpiper and Grey-tailed Tattler.

Day 3. Monday, 20 September. We made an early start for the Great Wall, which we reached at dawn. While we ate breakfast, a party of Blue Magpies cavorted through the trees and perched on overhead wires, such outrageous birds really belong within Chinese art. Overhead, a procession of small birds flew, which Jesper confidently called, Black-faced Bunting, Olive-backed Pipit etc. Clearly, migration was underway! Slowly ascending this renovated section of the Great Wall of China, we were overtaken by many local characters of mature vintage, while the younger folks ran up it backwards! We, of course, had the excuse that we were birding, and so it was. Soon we picked up Yellow-browed and ‘Two-barred’ Greenish Warblers, to be followed by several Dusky and a sprinkling of Radde’s. A juvenile Grey-streaked Flycatcher paused long enough for us all to enjoy before flying across the valley to join a roving band of tits and warblers. Soon, the distinctive calls of Pére David’s Laughingthrush were heard and we quickly added this north China endemic to our list. A similar call lead us onto a pair of Chinese Hill Warblers - or whatever they are called this week. This anomalous bird shares affinities with both warblers and babblers, but as yet it is unclear just what it is. That, however, is unimportant, we had seen them well and that was all that mattered. As the day warmed, a few raptors started to move, mostly Hobbies with a sprinkling of Amur Falcons, Japanese Sparrowhawks and Kestrels, but the highlight was a Grey-faced Buzzard that appeared over the ridge and conveniently landed in a tree for brief ‘scope views. Climbing steadily upwards, we encountered more laughingthrushes and hill warblers, plus a small party of Godlewski’s Buntings that were bathing in a small stream. Eventually we reached the cable car station, where three Black Storks appeared overhead for the laggards to enjoy. The cable car ride to the bottom takes only five minutes and soon we where back at the bus, pausing briefly to look at a couple of Praying Mantis and a Hummingbird Hawk Moth. Lunch was taken in Qinhuangdao, followed by a couple of hours around the fishponds and reservoir near our hotel in Beidaihe, where our first Pied Harriers put in an appearance, a juvenile cuckoo eventually revealed its identity as a Common, and several parties of Oriental Pratincoles flew south overhead. As dusk fell, a frowning Little Owl barked at us in defiance.

Day 4. Tuesday 21 September. An early start to a small river and estuary complex to the south of Beidaihe. Taking our breakfast by the roadside, something we were to become increasingly accustomed to over the coming weeks, we watched the dawn break and with it, numerous parties of smaller passerines and shorebirds all moving south. A group of Grey-headed Lapwings dropped in to rest on a nearby pool. We manoeuvred into better light, and enjoyed great looks at this increasingly scarce shorebird. As the morning progressed, several parties moved south, one with an Avocet in tow, another with an Oriental Pratincole for company. A couple of Brown Shrikes showed well, but a grey shrike perched on a distant wire proved to be Chinese Grey. Wandering generally in that direction, we were eventually able to walk right up to and almost touch this charismatic Chinese endemic to northeast Asia. As we worked the ditches and bushes, we managed to get to grips with a wide selection of the commoner migrants; a female Siberian Rubythroat showed well to everyone, three or four Red-throated Flycatchers flitted through the bushes, while a Yellow-browed Bunting was a little more choosy who it kept company with! Phylloscopus warblers were just about everywhere. Four Black Drongos were a bit of a surprise so far north.

Day 5. Wednesday 22 September. We left the hotel early, intending to drive to an area of extensive fishponds and lagoons that are home to numerous ducks and shorebirds. Surprisingly, duck were conspicuous by their absence, perhaps having already been disturbed. As we wandered along the bunds, it was clear that there had been a small fall of migrants overnight and the bushes were alive with small birds. These included Lanceolated Warbler, several species of bunting, Bluethroat and Siberian Rubythroat, and at least three Siberian Blue Robins, including an adult male that sat in the open, allowing everyone superb views. Birds at the bigger end of the checklist were not entirely neglected, and we enjoyed nice looks at Caspian and Gull-billed Terns, and several shorebird species including a couple of Sharp-tailed Sandpipers. Eventually, we had to drag ourselves away from this little piece of heaven, and drive to Lao Yu Jian for lunch and the boat to Happy Island. Lying just a mile or so offshore, the crossing took just 30 minutes once we finally got underway following several false starts, the delay being entirely due to a drunken mafia boss refusing to allow the boat to depart, then demanding its return when we did set off.

On arrival we were transported to our accommodation in electric powered ‘golf carts’. Our rooming on Happy Island was much improved over the previous year — with comfortable beds, spacious rooms and sit-down loos; this years group just didn’t appreciate what they had missed! We spent what was left of the afternoon getting our bearings and picking up the local migrants. As dusk approached, we watched a gathering of 30 or more Pied and Eastern Marsh Harriers gathering in the gloom prior to roosting. By the morning they would be long gone.

Days 6 & 7. Thursday 23 and Friday 24 September. Adjacent to our cabins was a viewing platform, which we termed ‘the Lobby’, a term of convenience as we didn’t otherwise have a lobby to gather in. This lobby had the additional benefit of expansive views across the channel to the mainland and gave a good indication of the extent of migration underway. On the first morning, just after dawn numerous harriers were crossing towards the island from the mainland; we estimated 40+ Pied and 18+ Marsh in less than 45 minutes. Not a bad start. Our routine over the coming days was to work a patch of scrub and wetlands, followed by a small woodland, labelled the Copse, then Temple Wood for migrants. This worked well, and over the next three days we saw many of the special birds for which Happy Island is justly famous. These included several Lanceolated, Pallas’s Grasshopper and Black-browed Reed Warblers, Siberian Rubythroat, Yellow-browed, Yellow-breasted, Little and Black-faced Buntings, Chestnut-flanked White-eyes, Brown Shrikes, Ashy Minivets, Chinese Bulbuls, a wide selection of Phylloscopus warblers, Grey-backed and White’s Thrushes and much more. You just need to be there to experience the magic of Happy Island. Of the scarcer species we encountered, a Wryneck and a delightful Spotted Bush Warbler that showed so well were my personal favourites, but others would count Oriental Scops Owl. Everyone enjoyed their own magical moments. One afternoon we walked along the beach to the southern point of the island where shorebirds and duck gather in great profusion. As we walked, the occasional passing Saunders’ Gulls and Gull-billed Terns eyed us up closely, but it was as we reached the main gathering that the fun began. It was clear that the tide was further out than we had anticipated and we faced a choice: stay here and be satisfied with distant views or walk out across the mudflats. The discovery of a small party of Oystercatchers out on the mud, a new sub-species, osculans, for one of the leaders and a China tick! This made the decision to go inevitable. We enjoyed a superb couple of hours birding. Not only did the Oyks show superbly, but within the gathered hordes, we discovered Great Knots, Eastern Curlews, Relict Gulls and a couple of Eurasian Spoonbills. By now the tide was rising and it was necessary to remove boots to cross what had been a dry channel on the way out. That done, the walk back to the cabins was most pleasant in the cool of the late evening.

Day 8. Saturday 25 September. Following our established early morning routine, we gathered in the ‘lobby’, looking for incoming migrants. It was then onto the Copse, pausing frequently to follow up any unfamiliar call or movement within a bush. It soon became clear that many birds had moved out overnight and new arrivals were few and far between. Of these, however, a gorgeous Black-capped Kingfisher flew by and perched in full view, one of the most beautiful birds we had yet encountered. Following breakfast, we watched the feeding behaviour of a party of Bar-tailed Godwits, and a couple of distant Greenshank had us going for a while. By 1:30, we were ready to leave so we took the boat back to Lao Yu Jian, where our driver was waiting for us. Following lunch in Lao Yu Jian, we visited the small wood. Now a shadow of its former self, it still held a few migrants, despite the fact that conditions were largely unsuitable for migration. First came a Red Collared Dove, quite unusual here, followed by a couple of Great Spotted Woodpeckers. As we started to work the woodland, a White’s Thrush flew up and perched in the open, allowing everyone good ‘scope views. A Woodcock then shot past us and the occasional Lancy flushed from underfoot. All too soon, we had to reluctantly drag ourselves away for the long journey to Beijing. Even along the new Tianjin Expressway, it still took over four hours to reach Beijing, where many skipped dinner ready for tomorrow’s early start.

Day 9. Sunday 26 September. We left the hotel early for our flight to Xining. All went smoothly and by lunchtime we were installed in our hotel. The afternoon was spent visiting Bei Shan, the bleak hillside to the north of Xining. Usually we are able to drive most of the way to the best birding areas, but today the road was under repair and the construction foreman was not in the mood to allow us to pass. After much cajoling by Mr Zhang, he relented and we made it to within a mile or so of where we usually drive to. This meant a longer and unexpected walk that we had not planned for. Fortunately all were up for it and we strolled along the road, occasionally making way for dust-disgorging trucks to pass. With all this disturbance, birds were few and far between, but we eventually tracked down several Sinai (Pale) Rosefinches, one of which allowed superb views by the roadside. A Hume’s Leaf Warbler and a calling Yellow-streaked Warbler rounded off a quiet day. As we returned to Xining, we hit the most horrendous traffic jam, anarchy in action, that delayed us for almost an hour until we were able to slink off down a side road.

Day 10. Monday 27 September. On our first morning in Qinghai, we set off to one of Jesper’s favourite birding haunts, north of Xining. Unfortunately the day dawned grey and damp with low cloud shrouding the mountain. Despite this setback, we took breakfast at the foot of the hill and waited for the weather to improve. Even at lower elevations, there are plenty of birds to be found, and soon we were watching our first Rufous-breasted (or as Jesper prefers, Rufous-browed) Accentors. Elliot’s Laughingthrushes called from within deep cover and Red-throated Thrushes shot by, only to vanish into the mist. Very quickly, the weather improved and we drove to the summit, where Red-billed Choughs cavorted in the wind. A sheltered section of the road was alive with birds; numerous Red-throated Thrushes fed on the ripening rowan berries and two Kessler’s Thrushes hurtled by high overhead. Several Blue-fronted Redstarts were joined by a solitary male White-throated redstart, one of the finest of this group of fine chats. A Siberian Rubythroat called from deep within cover, and several Yellow-streaked and Tickell’s Leaf Warblers, plus a few Rufous-browed Accentors showed well. Dropping lower, we found one, then four Wallcreepers that kept us entertained as they chased each other from cliff to crag, making it difficult to get prolonged ‘scope views, so we had to make do with simply stunning flight views of this outrageous bird-cum-butterfly of Eurasia’s higher mountains. By lunchtime, the mountain was bathed in sunlight, highlighting its autumnal colours in a final expression of defiance before the onset of winter’s long hibernation. Pressing on to the Koko Nor by way of a recently opened expressway, it took almost no time to get there, although we did pause for lunch at a rather nice noodle shop. As we reached the superb marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor, we were delighted to see it covered in ducks, coots and grebes. Most numerous were Red-crested Pochards and Eurasian Coots, but Pintail and Teal were also present in good numbers. Along with these birds were smaller numbers of Ferruginous Ducks, Tufted Ducks, Black-necked and Great Crested Grebes, Ruddy Shelduck and a couple of redhead Smew. Over the marsh itself, several juvenile Western Marsh Harriers were joined by a juvenile Eastern Marsh, and then a ringtail Hen Harrier. A large blob on a distant fence post proved to be an early-rising Eagle Owl, which was unceremoniously mobbed by Hen and Marsh Harriers alike. A distant Peregrine eventually put on a fine flying display for us as it hunted over the marsh, eventually striking down an unfortunate White-winged Black Tern which landed in the water, from which the Peregrine was unable to retrieve it. We stayed at this delightful spot until dusk, then drove the last hour to the motel in the dark. Today had been a superb introduction to birding in Qinghai!

Day 11, Tuesday 28 September. In order to acclimatise to the higher elevations in a leisurely manner, we opted to descend into the Zaidam Depression, a high altitude semi-desert. With a pre-dawn departure, we enjoyed a roadside breakfast while waiting for our many target birds to appear in the awakening dawn. First into view was a male Desert Wheatear on the roadside wires, followed by small parties of Horned Larks, Twites, Rock Sparrows and Mongolian Finches. A bird with a flash of white in the wing flew past and landed by the roadside; our first Blanford’s Snowfinch, which proved to be fairly common here. Eventually, we spotted a movement in the desert that could only be Henderson’s Ground Jay, a poorly known desert specialist confined to the cold deserts of Central Asia. As always, they didn’t stay around for long and were soon off, racing across the desert and hiding behind the clumps of sparse desert vegetation. Eventually, we all managed to get good views as they raced past us and up onto the road. As in previous years, our other star bird, Pallas’s Sandgrouse initially proved elusive. Having been unlucky here, we drove a little further along the road until we reached the area where we found them on our last tour. Very quickly, five distant birds flew past and into the distance over Chaka salt lake. Fortunately they turned back and pitched down about 2 km into the distance. Then a huge flock appeared, probably 200 or more, and landed in the same area. Our group didn’t need telling twice! When we couldn’t drive any closer, we set off across the desert and soon located the flock on the ground, still distant but the diagnostic chestnut facial feathering and dark belly patched nailed the identification. Moving ever closer, we were distracted by a flock of feeding Rock Sparrows, Mongolian Finches and, surprisingly, a Pére David’s Snowfinch, a surprising discovery in this apparently unsuitable habitat. Finally, we crested a rise and there they were - marvellous Pallas’s Sandgrouse just 50 metres distant and not unduly perturbed by our presence. We soaked up the subtle beauty of their intricate plumage and delicate colour tones for 20 minutes before leaving them in peace. Is this Asia’s ultimate bird? Next came a quick bite of lunch followed by a brief excursion into a dry wadi that produced a covey of six Przewalski’s Partridges. They skittled quickly up the hillside when they realised they had been spotted, but still left time for ‘scope views for most. Unlike our last visit here though, many breeding birds had already departed for warmer climes, and apart from a handful of Mongolian Finches, the wadi was bereft of other birds. Our return to Heimahe was punctuated with a halt at a roadside shelterbelt, which, when conditions are just right, can prove to be a real magnet for migrants. Unfortunately, the woods were quiet and there was little evidence of overnight migration. It was here that, in 2002, we had discovered Przewalski’s Redstarts, so this was our final target bird for the day. And, we were not to be disappointed. As we entered a small poplar copse, a flitting movement followed by a flash of red revealed our host to be home. Very quickly, two stunning male Przewalski’s Redstarts were hopping about in front of us, allowing us views to drool over. A superb ending to another brilliant day.

Day 12, Wednesday 29 September. We made a late start this morning, leaving the hotel in the pre-dawn light to drive to the small river that cuts through the outskirts of town. Here, as the light improved, a family party of Black-necked Cranes was spotted feeding along the lake shore, well over a mile into the distance. Opting for breakfast and improved light, we watched and waited, seeing Great Black-headed Gulls coming in to bathe in the river. Unfortunately, as the sun appeared, so the heat haze worsened and it became difficult to see much in the distance. With breakfast complete, we wandered along the river towards the cranes, enjoying Temminck’s Stint, Green Sandpiper, Water Pipit and Tibetan (Long-billed Calandra) Larks and our first Ground Peckers, all of which were seen well. Eventually we got fairly close to the cranes, close enough to appreciate the differences between the black-necked adults and their rather dowdy youngster.

Soon it was time for our ascent of Rubber Mountain, an essential part of this tour to reach the very special birds of this remote region. By climbing slowly and taking plenty of rest stops, everyone managed the initial and most difficult part of the climb. Initially, birds came slowly, a couple of distant Himalayan Griffons, followed by a small party of delightful White-browed Tits. But, as we neared the main ridge, several birds were noticed flying to a small cliff where a small wet flush had formed, providing a valuable source of fresh water in this parched landscape. Over the next hour, we watched a continuous procession of exciting birds coming into drink here. Most numerous were the Streaked (Eastern Great) Rosefinches, which were joined by several of their smaller Beautiful cousins. Two or three Przewalski’s Rosefinches also put in brief appearances and everyone managed nice looks at the drabber females with their unwieldy pink tails. The male, however, was more elusive and only glimpsed by the fortunate few. As we watched, Brown, Robin and Rufous-breasted Accentors appeared, as did, albeit briefly, two cracking male Güldenstädt’s Redstarts. Soon it was time to press on, but almost immediately we came to a halt as a huge Tibetan Grey Shrike parked itself on a fence post in front of us. Although most authorities treat this bird as a sub-species of the more widespread Chinese Grey Shrike, this bird is no Chinese Grey Shrike. It dwarfs its diminutive cousin, and shows numerous plumage differences. Originally described as a distinct species Lanius giganteus by Przewalski, it has, for unknown reasons, been subsumed within Chinese Grey Shrike. This was the first time that Jesper had seen this dramatic bird in this region, typically it is resident to the south on the remoter regions of the Tibetan Plateau. As we ate lunch, several Himalayan Griffons drifted past, as did a stunning adult Lammergeier and a Saker. All too soon it was time to descend, but even so, exciting birds still came at us, first a party of Rufous-necked Snowfinches, followed by a White-rumped Snowfinch, along with Twite and yet more Ground Peckers, an immature Amur Falcon and several Upland Buzzards. In the late afternoon we returned to the shores of the Koko Nor where we spent the last couple of hours taking in the scenery and enjoying the lakeside birds. Duck were particularly numerous and included large numbers of Ruddy Shelduck, Eurasian Wigeon, Pintail and Teal, while offshore there were small parties of Great Crested Grebes, Common Goldeneyes and Goosanders. The Black-necked Cranes were relocated in the distance but were too far to appreciate. A falcon that shot past us fortunately landed on a nearby fence post and proved to be a female Barbary Falcon of the form babylonicus, a rare bird in this part of China and at the eastern limit of its range here. Large numbers of Tibetan Larks fed along the shoreline, along with smaller numbers of Hume’s Short-toed Larks, allowing everyone to appreciate the subtleties of this tricky species. Last but not least, a cracking Lesser Whitethroat of the eastern form margelanica showed well, the small white line separating the dark mask from the crown establishing its identity beyond doubt. Another fantastic day.

Day 13, Thursday 30 September. Another late start! During the night the wind had increased considerably, putting paid to our chances of a bush breakfast. Instead, as dawn crept upon us, we ate in the Wildflower Motel. As we ventured outside, it was clear that not only had the wind increased, gusting to a Force 8, but the temperature was down by several degrees — it was a bitter and cutting cold. We paused by the small river at Heimahe in the lee of the bus, but few birds appeared, the best being Merlin and Hen Harrier, so we soon carried on our way towards the east. A roadside flock of gorgeous Demoiselle Cranes was our first stop, which proved to be longer than expected as the bus steadfastly refused to start. After much wizardry by Mr Zhao, we got it going again. Stopping to check the stubble fields which were alive with larks, we soon encountered our first Mongolian Larks flying over the fields, their conspicuous white secondaries flashing against the darker hills but appearing very narrow-winged when seen overhead against the blue sky. They seemed to be particularly wary today, perhaps due to the strong winds and invariably landed out of view deep in the stubble. Fortunately, one or two gave us good fly-by views and everyone managed good views before retreating to the warmth of the bus. Nearby, a male Merlin pursued an unfortunate lark, and five distant Himalayan Griffons enjoyed the breeze. Continuing, a flock of doves on a roadside wire proved to be Red Collared Doves, where on earth had they originated from? As we watched them, we noticed another flock of Demoiselle’s in a nearby field, then a Chinese Grey Shrike on a roadside wire and finally, our only House Sparrows of the tour, these being of the migratory form P. d. bactrianus. Interestingly, these birds are so unlike the resident House Sparrows of Europe and Central Asia that the Russian authorities treat these birds as a full species, distinct from House Sparrow. Pressing on to the marsh at Koko Nor, we scanned the assembled waterfowl which, as on our earlier visit, numbered well into the thousands. It was the Black-necked Cranes, however, that stole the show, with four cracking adults wandering the marsh, at times sufficiently close to see the white spot behind the eye. With the wind still strong and cutting, birding was difficult but we persevered by keeping low and out of the wind as best we could. We were able to enjoy a Peregrine hunting over the marsh, several Marsh Harriers (of both species) before making an early retreat back to the bus. We reached Xining by late afternoon and everyone enjoyed the luxury of a hot shower before dinner.

Day 14, Friday 1 October. We left the hotel in darkness at 05:30 and drove to a delightful region of low hills cloaked with dense, evergreen fir forest not far from Xining. This being China’s National Day and a public holiday, the gatekeeper was still in the Land of Nod when we arrived, and it required a determined effort from Jesper and Mr Zhang to arouse him from his slumbers. Eventually the gate opened and we sat down to breakfast, accompanied by a calling Chinese Nuthatch. This was soon enticed into view, a delightful small nuthatch, and closely related to Corsican Nuthatch in Europe and Red-breasted Nuthatch of North America. As we ate, the occasional Common Crossbill ‘chipped’ overhead. We then spent the remainder of the morning wandering around the forest and scrubby hillsides which, at times, seemed to be alive with birds. Our next target, undoubtedly the most important bird of the day, was White-cheeked or Przewalski’s Nuthatch. Again Jesper’s quick ear detected a calling bird and very quickly we were all enjoying great ‘scope views of this stunningly beautiful nuthatch. While all this was taking place we were continually being distracted by the likes of Crested Tit Warblers, Gansu Leaf Warblers (with its Wood Warbler-like song), a cracking male Red-flanked Bluetail, numerous white-browed Rosefinches, White-throated and Blue-fronted Redstarts. In the undergrowth, Yellow-streaked and Tickell’s Leaf Warblers lurked and Severtsov’s Tit Warblers led us on a merry dance, but eventually everyone managed a look at a lilac tinted male. All too soon we had to leave, but having negotiated the worst of the traffic, we sat down to our best bowl of noodles so far. It was then off to the airport for our flight to Beijing.

Day 15, Saturday 2 October. With yet more birds awaiting, we planned a pre-breakfast walk around the hotel grounds. In no time at all, Azure-winged Magpie was added to the list; they are, indeed, abundant here. There were, however, very few migrants in evidence, with ‘just’ a couple of Pallas’s Leaf Warblers and a calling Yellow-browed Warbler to add to the list. Jesper and Aiqin came to see us off at the hotel, as we headed for the airport and the long haul back to Heathrow. Another great and highly successful tour to this marvellous country; who will ever forget the magic of the open spaces of the Tibetan Plateau, or those special moments with migrants along the coast.

The marvellous Blue Magpies cavorting over the Great Wall were voted ‘Bird of the Tour’, with Demoiselle Crane coming in second place and Pallas’s Sandgrouse third.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

At least 15 on fishponds at Beidaihe on 20/9 and six there the following day. The only other coastal record was of six at the Salinas on 22/9. On the eastern Marsh at the Koko Nor, nine on 27/9 and one on 30/9.

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

Two on the sea off the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9, with four there on 21/9, and five at the Salinas on 22/9. In Qinghai, at least 50 on the eastern marsh at the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 30/9, and 12+ near Heimahe on 29/9.

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

At least 20 on the eastern marsh at the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 15 there on 30/9.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

A common bird throughout. Recorded daily along the coast, with 140+ at Beidaihe on 19/9, 200+ on Happy Island on 22/9 followed by 400+ there on 23/9 and 350+ on 24/9. In Qinghai, 20+ by the eastern marsh on 27/9 and 60+ on 30/9, and 180+ by the Koko Nor on 29/9.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Fairly common along the coast and by the Koko Nor. Daily counts were 10+ on 21/9, 40+ on 22/9 and 15+ on 24/9. In Qinghai, at least 20 on the eastern marsh on 27/9 with six there on 30/9, and 15+ near Heimahe on 29/9.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

Small numbers seen along the coast, with three at the Yang Ho on 21/9, three at the Salinas on 22/9, while on Happy island, 3+ on 23/9, 4+ on 24/9 and two on 25/9. Most were juveniles.

Great Egret Ardea alba

Small numbers regularly along coast with 9+ at Beidaihe and 10+ at Salinas on 22/9 being highest counts. Small numbers at Koko Nor, with eight in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and six there on 30/9, and three near Heimahe on 29/9.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Common along the coast where it was recorded daily between 19/9 and 25/9. Peak counts included 60+ at Beidaihe on 19/9 and 20/9, with 40+ there on 21/9, and up to 15 daily at Happy Island.

Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus

One the coast, at least six at Beidaihe on 21/9 and 22/9, four at the Salinas on 22/9. In Qinghai, one in flight over the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
One at the Yang Ho on 21/9 was unusual for this region.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Small numbers seen most days along the coast, with high counts of at least 12 at dusk by the reservoir at Beidaihe on 20/9, and 40+ in the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 22/9, where they appeared to be breeding. On Happy Island, just one bird at dusk on 24/9.

Eurasian Bittern Botaurus stellaris

One in flight, calling, over Happy Island at dusk on 22/9.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra

Three over Shanhaiguan on 20/9 followed by one on 22/9.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

One seen briefly in flight over the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. A rare bird in China.

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

Two on the mudflats at the southern end of Happy Island on 23/9.

Greylag Goose Anser anser

Twenty at the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, and eight there on 30/9.

Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus

At least 30 at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 30/9, 20 by the Koko Nor at Heimahe on 29/9.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

Only seen on the Tibetan Plateau where it was fairly common along the southern shore of the Koko Nor, with 200+ near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 29/9 and 25+ at the eastern end on 27/9 and 30/9.

Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna

250+ on Happy Island on 23/9 was the only coastal record. At the Koko Nor, four on 27/9 and three on 29/9.

Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope

One at Happy Island on 23/9 was the only coastal record. Numerous by the Koko Nor, with 400+ at Heimahe on 29/9 and 15+ on the marsh at the eastern end of the lake 30/9.

Falcated Duck Anas falcata

Seen most days along the coast, with 18 on the sea at Beidaihe on 19/9, followed by 12+ on 21/9, four on 22/9 and daily on Happy Island, peaking at 40+ on 24/9. Not recorded in Qinghai.

Gadwall Anas strepera

Absent from the coast, but 25+ at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 increased to 100+ on 30/9. Elsewhere, just 4/5 at Heimahe on 29/9.

Baikal Teal Anas formosa
By visiting the coast slightly earlier than the previous tour in 2002, we were able to watch this elusive and highly sought-after duck in reasonable numbers. Following the first were four on the sea at Beidaihe on 19/9 with other duck, we then found six at the Yang ho on 21/9, 12 at the Salinas on 22/9 and 16+ on Happy Island on 24/9.

Eurasian (Common) Teal Anas crecca

Common along the coast where it was recorded daily between 19/9 and 25/9. Peak count was of 500+ on Happy Island. The marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor held even greater numbers; 1000+ on 27/9 and 1500+ on 30/9, with 75+ near Heimahe on 29/9.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

Small numbers noted along the coast with a maximum count of 35+ birds on fish ponds at Beidaihe on 20/9. In Qinghai, and up to ten at the Koko Nor.

Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha

Following the first on the sea at Beidaihe on 19/9, regularly seen along the coast, with Happy Island holding the largest numbers; 100+ on 22/9, 400+ on 23/9, 300+ on 24/9 and 630+ on 25/9. Less numerous in Qinghai, with 40+ in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 being the only record. All the birds we encountered were of the Chinese form A. p. zonorhyncha, known as Chinese Spotbill.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta

Common at Happy Island with up to 90 recorded daily. In Qinghai, 30+ on the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 30/9, and 75+ near Heimahe on 29/9.

Garganey Anas querquedula

Occasionally recorded along this coast; two on the sea at Beidaihe with other duck on 19/9, plus further singles noted at Beidaihe on 20/9, the Salinas on 22/9, and Happy Island on 24/9. In Qinghai, 20+ in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 30+ again on 30/9.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata

Eight on Happy Island on 23/9, with four there on 24/9 and three on 25/9. In Qinghai, 30+ in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, increasing to 200+ on 30/9.

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

The regular flock on the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor was estimated at 500+ birds on 27/9 and 300+ on 30/9. Elsewhere, just six near Heimahe on 29/9.

Common Pochard Aythya ferina

Single females on the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 30/9.

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca

At least 30 on the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, and 12 there on 30/9.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula

At least 10 on the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 15+ there on 30/9. At the west end of the lake, 15+ near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 29/9.

Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula

At least six near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 29/9. All appeared to be females.

Smew Mergellus albellus

Two ‘redheads’ on the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, and again on 30/9.

Goosander Mergus merganser

Four at Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 29/9 and seven there the following day.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus
A migrant moving southwest over Heimahe on 29/9.

Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus

Two over the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 22/9, nine over Happy Island on 23/9, three there on 24/9 and two on 25/9.

Black Kite Milvus migrans

One over Beidaihe on 20/9 was the only record from the coast. In Qinghai, also scarce, with two over Heimahe on 29/9 being the only record. All these birds were of the form M. m. lineatus, sometimes known as Black-eared Kite, which some authorities consider may represent a species distinct from Black Kite.

Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus

Two distant immatures and a close adult over Rubber Mountain on 29/9.

Himalayan Griffon Vulture Gyps himalayensis

At least 20 over Rubber Mountain on 29/9 and five near the southern shore of the Koko Nor, east of Heimahe on 30/9.

Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

Two juveniles at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and again on 30/9.

Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus

A common migrant along the coast, but generally outnumbered by Pied Harriers. Daily totals included one on 20/9, two on 21/9, 40+ on 22/9, 18+ on 23/9, 7+ on 24/9 and 5+ on 25/9. In the evening of 22/9, an impressive pre-roost gathering of birds assembled on Happy Island, with 20+ Eastern Marsh and 10+ Pied Harriers quartering a small area of grassland on the island. In Qinghai, a juvenile at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and two there 30/9.

Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus

A male over the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 22/9 was the only record on the coast. In Qinghai, single juveniles at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and near Heimahe on 29/9.

Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos

Many Pied Harriers were moving along the coast at the time of our visit, and birds were recorded daily between 19/9 and 25/9. Daily totals were one on 19/9, four on 20/9 and 21/9, 28 on 22/9, 40+ on 23/9, two on 24/9 and five on 25/9. Most were juveniles but several cracking adult males showed particularly well.

Japanese Sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis

The most numerous accipiter along the coast, with records daily from 20/9 to 25/9. Daily counts were four on 20/9, one on 21/9, 10+ on 22/9, 12+ on 23/9, 18+ on 24/9 and 8+ on 25/9. Not recorded in Qinghai.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

Along the coast, one over Shanhaiguan on 20/9, followed by four singles at the Yang Ho on 21/9 and four over the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian. In Qinghai, one at Bei Shan on 26/9, one over Rubber Mountain on 29/9 and two on 1/10. All presumed migrants.

Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis

One over the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 22/9 was followed by a juvenile male on Happy Island on 23/9 and a juvenile female there on 24/9. In Qinghai, a juvenile at Laoye Shan on 27/9 and two presumed migrants high overhead on 1/10.

Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus

A migrant at Shanhaiguan on 20/9 gave good views as it flew low over the woodland and perched briefly in a tree for the requisite ‘scope views. Two distant singles over the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 22/9.

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo

Surprisingly absent from the coastal strip, and only noted in Qinghai, with singles on 26/9, 27/9 and 29/9, at least 13 migrants joined three resident birds on 1/10. All birds belonged to the eastern form B. b. japonicus

Upland Buzzard Buteo hemilasius

Only recorded from Qinghai with three between Xining and the Koko Nor on 27/9, five over Rubber Mountain on 29/9 and two east of Heimahe on 30/9.

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis

A sub-adult on 1/10 was the only record.

Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos

Singles near Chaka on 28/9 and over Rubber Mountain on 29/9.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

Two pale morph birds over Bei Shan on 26/9, followed by a dark morph and a pale morph on 1/10.

Common (Eurasian) Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Recorded daily throughout the tour, usually singles or two birds together. On the coast, four on Happy Island was the highest count, while in Qinghai, seven were seen on Rubber Mountain on 29/9. Many birds appeared much darker than European birds and were probably of the form F. t. interstinctus.

Amur Falcon Falco amurensis

Small numbers noted daily between 19/9 and 25/9. At Shanhaiguan, seven birds seen there during the morning, while on Happy island, up to six seen daily. In Qinghai, a juvenile over Rubber Mountain on 29/9 was exceptional.

Merlin Falco columbarius

Single birds by the roadside at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, followed by two singles on 30/9, one at Heimahe and the other hunting larks over the stubble fields to the east of the town.

Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo

Widespread along the coast in small numbers and recorded daily between 19/9 and 25/9. Most were undoubtedly migrants with peaks of eight at Shanhaiguan on 20/9 and five at Happy Island on 24/9. Not recorded in Qinghai.

Saker Falco cherrug

Only recorded in Qinghai, with on over Bei Shan on 26/9, a pair in hot pursuit of an unfortunate Pallas’s Sandgrouse near Chaka on 28/9 that seemed to be getting the better of them when we last saw it, three over Rubber Mountain on 29/9 and two presumed migrants on 1/10. Birds of the eastern form F. c. milvipes that we encountered are quite different from European birds, typically lacking the pale-headed appearance.

Barbary Falcon Falco pelegrinoides

An adult female showed well down to 200m as it sat on a fence post near Heimahe on 29/9. This bird would be of the eastern form F. p. babylonicus.

Peregrine Falco peregrinus

One over Shanhaiguan on 20/9, followed by a juvenile at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and again on 30/9, when there may have been two birds present.

Chukar Partridge Alectoris chukar

Several calling at Shanhaiguan on 20/9.

Przewalski’s Partridge Alectoris magna

A party of six showed well, albeit briefly, near Chaka on 28/9.

Japanese Quail Coturnix japonica

Singles flushed at the Salinas on 22/9, and daily between 23/9 and 25/9 on Happy Island.

Ring-necked (Common) Pheasant Phasianus colchicus

Small numbers recorded daily between 20/9 and 25/9. Those on Happy Island are derived from captive origin. In Qinghai, heard at Bei Shan on 26/9, six at Laoye Shan on 27/9 and one on 1/10.

Yellow-legged Buttonquail Turnix tanki

One recently killed bird, still fresh, on Happy island on 23/9 and one flushed in the Small Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9, which could not be relocated.

Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo

Much of the World population passes through Qinghai during the last 10 days of September and we encountered many flocks, although most were distant, appearing as long wavering lines against the sky or mountains. These flocks totalled 650 on 28/9 and 385 on 29/9. Due to the strong winds on 30/9, migrants were being grounded, and we enjoyed close views of parties of 33 and 13 by the roadside to the east of Heimahe.

Black-necked Crane Grus nigricollis

Two adults and a juvenile by the lake-shore at Heimahe on 29/9 and four adults in marshes at the eastern end of Koko Nor on 30/9.

Water Rail Rallus aquaticus

One in flight over the Great Wall at Shanhaiguan on 20/9 being hotly pursued by a Large-billed Crow. We last saw them disappearing over a hillside, so the final outcome remains unknown.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Three at Beidaihe on 20/9, one at the Yang Ho on 21/9 and four at the Salinas on 22/9.

Common (Eurasian) Coot Fulica atra

At least 500 on the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and a similar number there again on 30/9.

Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus

A party of 12 on mudflats at the southern end of Happy Island on 23/9. These birds were of the form H. o. osculans which is confined to the coastline of eastern China, Japan and the Korean peninsula and is apparently declining in numbers.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Eight at the Salinas on 22/9.

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

Singles south over the Yang Ho with Grey-headed Lapwings on 21/9 and on the south shore of Koko Nor near Heimahe on 29/9.

Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum

Several parties totalling 130+ birds moving south over the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9, with a further 70+ south the following day. One south over the Yang Ho with Grey-headed Lapwings on 21/9, 18 south over the Salinas on 22/9. Over Happy Island, calling birds heard on 23/9 and 24/9.

Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus

Only seen in Qinghai, where 60+ were noted at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 105+ there again on 30/9.

Grey-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus

Several small flocks totalling 205 birds at the Yang Ho on 21/9, followed by 65+ near the Salinas on 22/9.

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva

Three on Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9, with two on 21/9. Elsewhere, two on Happy Island on 23/9 and heard there on 24/9.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola

Small numbers seen most days from 19/9 to 25/9, with peaks of 11 on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 21/9 and 80+ on mudflats at the southern end of Happy Island on 23/9.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

At least 20 on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9, with 15 there the following day and 10+ on 21/9. In addition, three at the Salinas on 22/9.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

The most numerous and widespread shorebird, recorded daily along the coast between 19/9 and 25/9. Peak numbers included 100+ on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 21/9 and 300+ on Happy Island on 23/9. Elsewhere, just four near Heimahe on 29/9.

Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus

Four on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9 and three there on 21/9.

Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola

One flushed from the small wood near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

Small numbers daily between 19/9 and 25/9, with daily maximum of 11 at Happy Island on 24/9. In Qinghai, eight in flight over the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and three there on 30/9.

Pintail Snipe Gallinago stenura

One in flight at Happy Island on 22/9.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

Eight flew over Happy Island on 25/9. In Qinghai, seven in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 10 there on 30/9. These birds were of the diminutive eastern race L. l. melanuroides, some of which were barely larger than Greenshank when stood alongside.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

A group of 12 or more at Happy Island on 23/9, with four there on 25/9.

Little Curlew Numenius minutus
Jesper saw six distant birds in flight over the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus

Three juveniles on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9, with one there the following day and two on 21/9. These birds were of the eastern race N. p. variegatus, which shows a variable amount of white on the lower back and rump, but typically less than the nominate form shows in Europe.

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata

At least 1000 on mudflats at the southern end of Happy Island on 23/9 was by far the highest count. Elsewhere, three at the Yang Ho on 21/9, 10+ at Happy Island on 24/9 and 30+ there on 25/9. All were of the eastern form N. a. orientalis, which usually appears longer-billed than European birds, and some can approach the bill size and structure of Far Eastern Curlew.

Far Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis

At least four in company with Eurasian Curlews on mudflats at the southern end of Happy Island on 23/9, and an estimated 110 roosting on a sand bar between Happy Island and Lao Yu Jian on 25/9.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

Small numbers daily along the coast, with a peak of 15 at the Salinas on 22/9. In Qinghai, five in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and one there on 30/9.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus

At least 10 by the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, with four there on 30/9.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

At least 20 at the Salinas on 22/9, while on Happy Island, two on 23/9, four on 24/9 and two on 25/9, with a further four on a drained pool near Lao Yu Jian, also on 25/9.

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Common along the coast and recorded daily between 20/9 and 25/9. Peak counts included 35+ near the Yang Ho on 21/9, 15+ at the Salinas on 22/9 and 10 on a drained pool near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9. In Qinghai, five in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and two there on 30/9.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Four on fish ponds at Beidaihe on 20/9 and 21/9, four near the Yang Ho on 21/9, and three on a drained pool near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9. In Qinghai, one near Heimahe on 29/9.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Singles near the Yang Ho on 21/9 and the Salinas on 22/9. Also four on a drained pool near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9.

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus

One on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9 and 21/9, one on Happy Island on 23/9 and one heard there on 25/9.

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Singles on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9 and 21/9, followed by one on a drained pool near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9.

Grey-tailed Tattler Heteroscelus brevipes

One on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9.

Great Knot Calidris tenuirostris

Five on Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9 and 21/9. On Happy Island, at least 35 on mudflats at the southern end of the island on 23/9.

Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis

On Sandflats at Beidaihe, 25+ juveniles present on 19/9, 20/9 and 21/9. The only other record was of eight at the Salinas on 22/9.

Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii

On the coast, three on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 21/9 and one near the Salinas the following day. In Qinghai, two by the small river near Heimahe on 29/9 and one there the following day.

Sharp-tailed Sandpiper Calidris acuminata
Two adults at the Salinas on 22/9.

Dunlin Calidris alpina

Small numbers on the Sandflats at Beidaihe, where counts included seven on 19/9, four on 20/9 and 21/9. Elsewhere, eight near the Salinas on 22/9, followed by 50+ on Happy Island on 23/9 and one on 25/9. Not recorded in Qinghai. All birds were considerably longer-billed than European birds and were probably referable to C. a. sakhalina.

Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus

A juvenile with Red-necked Stints on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax

At least 22 birds in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Black-tailed Gull Larus crassirostris

Noted daily along the coast between 19/9 and 25/9. The Sandflats at Beidaihe were an excellent place to observe this attractive gull, and we estimated 20+ there on 19/9, 15+ on 20/9 and 21/9. Elsewhere, 20+ at the Salinas on 22/9, 300+ rather distant roosting birds on the mud flats at the southern end of Happy Island on 23/9, with 20+ there on 24/9 and 40+ on 25/9. Also on 25/9, at least 80 on a drained fish pond near Lao Yu Jian.

Common Gull Larus canus

Only seen on the Sandflats at Beidaihe, where counts of 10+ on 19/9, 6+ on 20/9 and 10+ again on 21/9, were made. All birds appeared very similar to birds of the nominate form in Europe and were presumably of the form L. c. heinei.

Vega Gull Larus vegae

A minimum of 140 birds on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9, falling to 40+ on 20/9 and increasing again to 80+ on 21/9. Elsewhere, 30+ near the Salinas on 22/9, while on Happy Island, 20+ noted on 23/9, 6+ on 24/9 and 60+ roosting on a sand bar between Happy Island and Lao Yu Jian. It is uncertain whether this taxon is specifically distinct from Herring Gull L. argentatus and there are many conflicting arguments. However, this treatment appears to be in the ascendancy at the present time.

Yellow-legged (Mongolian) Gull Larus cachinnans

A juvenile/first-winter gull on sandflats at Beidaihe on 21/9, showed the characters associated with the form L. (c.) mongolicus.

Heuglin's Gull Larus heuglini

On the Sandflats at Beideihe on 19/9, two adults and an estimated 13 juvenile/first-winter birds were present. Numbers here dropped to just six juvenile/first-winter birds by 21/9. Not noted elsewhere. The adults at Beidaihe on 19/9 showed the paler grey mantle associated with the eastern form L. h. taimyrensis, but the racial identity of the juveniles could not be established, although it is probable these were also L. h. taimyrensis.

Great Black-headed Gull Larus ichtyaetus

At least 50 Heimahe on 29/9 including adults and juveniles, followed by 25+ in the same area on the following day. At the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor, an adult and juvenile were present on 30/9.

Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus

Sightings restricted to the plateau, where small numbers frequented the shores of the Koko Nor. These included 20+ near Heimahe on 29/9 and 15+ between Heimahe and the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 30/9.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

Common along the coast where it was seen daily between 19/9 and 25/9. Peak counts included 500+ on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 19/9, and 200+ at Happy Island on 27/9.

Saunders' Gull Larus saundersi

Only seen on Happy Island, where 15+ on 23/9, 5+ on 24/9 and two on 25/9. Mostly 1st-winter birds, buta few adults were noted.

Relict Gull Larus relictus

The Sand Flats at Beidaihe proved to be best place to see this delightful gull. Here we encountered five first-winter birds on 19/9 and again on 21/9. The only other records were from Happy Island, with an adult and first-winter on mudflats at the southern end of the island on 23/9.

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica

Two at the Salinas on 22/9 was the only record away from Happy Island. At Happy Island, one on 22/9, 12+ on 23/9, two on 24/9 and, again, two on 25/9.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

Apart from an adult and juvenile in flight over Sand Flats at Beidaihe on 21/9, only seen at/near Happy Island, with one on 22/9, three on 22/9, four on 24/9 and two on 25/9. Also on 25/9, as we returned to Lao Yu Jian, at least eight roosting on a sand bar.

Common Tern Sterna hirundo

Common on the Sand Flats at Beidaihe, with 60+ on 19/9, 80+ on 20/9 and 25+ on 21/9. Elsewhere, three at the Salinas on 22/9 and two at Happy Island on 23/9. All birds showed the characters of the black-billed form S. h. longipennis.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida

One with White-winged Black Terns over the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

Seven over the Salinas on 22/9, and four over the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. A juvenile Peregrine appeared to take one just as the flock reached the lake.

Pallas's Sandgrouse Syrrhaptes paradoxus

An estimated 250+ birds seen both in flight and at rest in semi-desert east of Chaka on 28/9 where our 2002 group saw an estimated 500+ birds. Although well scattered during the breeding season, it seems clear that after the breeding season, this region proves particularly attractive to this species, with large numbers gathering.

Feral Rock Dove Columba livia

Recorded most days near habitation, but absent from Happy Island and Rubber Mountain. Many birds likely to have been of captive origin.

Hill Pigeon Columba rupestris

Restricted to Qinghai, where 30+ at Bei Shan, above Xining, on 26/9, 25+ at Laoye Shan on 27/9, and eight near Chaka on 28/9.

Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis

Numerous along the coast, and noted daily between 20/9 and 25/9. Peak counts included 33 on 20/9, and 23 on 22/9. In Qinghai, only seen on 1/10, when a party of eight birds was noted.

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Singles noted at Shanhaiguan on 20/9 and the Salinas on 22/9, while in Qinghai, four in shelter-belts near Chaka on 28/9.

Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica

One on Happy Island on 25/9, followed by one in the Small Wood at Lao Yu Jian later the same day. In Qinghai, one near Chaka on 28/9 and a party of 13, perched on roadside wires east of Heimahe, on 30/9. Where these birds originate from is anyone’s guess.

Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus

A juvenile in trees adjacent to the reservoir at Beidaihe on 20/9, another in the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 22/9, and singles on Happy Island on 23/9 and 24/9.

Oriental (Horsfield’s) Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus

One seen in flight on Happy Island on 23/9 showed the characters of the northern race C. s. horsfieldi.

Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia

One seen briefly on Happy Island on 24/9.

Eagle Owl Bubo bubo

One on a fence post at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 was persistently mobbed by Hen and Western Marsh Harriers.

Little Owl Athene noctua

Singles at Beidaihe on 20/9 and Happy Island on 23/9 and 24/9, two at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and one in the same area on 30/9.

Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata

One showed well on Happy Island on 25/9.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

Two at Beidaihe on 20/9 and 21/9, with four near the Yang Ho, also on 21/9. One on Happy Island on 24/9.

Hoopoe Upupa epops

Recorded daily along the coast between 20/9 and 25/9, with five on 21/9 being the highest daily count. On the Tibetan Plateau, singles on 27/9 and 28/9, followed by four on 29/9.

Wryneck Jynx torquilla

One on Happy Island on 23/9.

Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus

One seen in flight at Happy Island on 23/9 and singles also heard there on 23/9 and 24/9.

Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major

Singles at Beidaihe on 20/9 and near the Yang Ho on 21/9. Two in the Small Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9.

Grey-headed (Grey-faced) Woodpecker Picus canus

Heard at Shanhaiguan and Beidaihe on 20/9 and a pair seen in the small wood near the Yang Ho on 21/9.

Tibetan (Long-billed Calandra) Lark Melanocorypha maxima

One in flight at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, 40+ near Heimahe on 29/9 and two nearby again on 30/9. Mostly seen in flight but several birds showed well on the ground.

Mongolian Lark Melanocorypha mongolica

At least 20 in roadside stubble fields between Heimahe and the eastern end of Koko Nor on 30/9. Most were singles or pairs seen in flight, although one group consisted of at least 12 birds. Due to the strong wind, these birds were rather flighty, and disappeared deep into the stubble upon landing. Satisfyingly, in the end, we did manage to get good flight views of a couple of birds.

Hume's Short-toed Lark Calandrella acutirostris

Sightings were restricted to the plateau where small flocks, presumably migrants, were continuously on the move. These included 50+ near Chaka on 28/9, 50+ over Rubber Mountain on 29/9 with 40+ near Heimahe later the same day, and 500+ in the recently harvested stubble fields to the east of Heimahe on 30/9. Fortunately, two birds showed well on the ground by the Koko Nor in the evening of 29/9.

Asian Short-toed Lark Calandrella cheleensis

Difficult to see well, and most were seen in flight and identified on call. These included six at the Salinas on 22/9, one over Happy Island the following day, and three near Chaka on 28/9. However, at least two birds at the Salinas showed well as they ran between patches of low vegetation. It remains far from certain that this form can be reliably separated from Lesser Short-toed Larks which breed in Central Asia.

Eurasian (Northern) Skylark Alauda arvensis

Most records along the coast involved migrants in flight, calling as they passed overhead. These included 20+ over the Yang Ho on 21/9, one over Happy Island on 23/9 and three on 25/9. In Qinghai, seven in the recently harvested stubble fields to the east of Heimahe on 30/9.

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula

All records came from Qinghai, with over 1000 in the recently harvested stubble fields to the east of Heimahe on 30/9, and smaller numbers elsewhere.

Shore (Horned) Lark Eremophila alpestris

Numerous and widespread on the plateau with up to 600 daily. Most numerous in the recently harvested stubble fields to the east of Heimahe. These large, pale birds, which lack all traces of yellow on the head, belonged to the ‘elwesi’ group of sub-species that are restricted to the high mountains of Central Asia. It is likely that, in the near future, the taxonomic position of this group will be reviewed, perhaps resulting in the group being split form the familiar Shore Lark to become E. elwesi.

Sand Martin Riparia riparia

Only seen on the coast with 6+ near the Yang Ho on 21/9, 20+ at the Salinas on 22/9 and 2/3 on Happy Island on 23/9.

Pale Martin Riparia diluta

This recently recognised species breeds on the Tibetan Plateau. We noted 3+ over marshes at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 8+ near Heimahe on 29/9.

Eurasian Crag Martin Hirundo rupestris

Four at Laoye Shan on 27/9.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

Undoubtedly the most numerous migrant along the coast, where it was recorded daily between 19/9 and 25/9. It was difficult to estimate the numbers moving through as we were not able to continuously monitor the numbers moving, so all figures are estimates. These included 1100+ on 21/9, 2500+ on 22/9, 600+ on 23/9 and 200+ on 24/9. Not recorded in Qinghai.

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica

200+ over Shanhaiguan on 20/9 was the largest passage recorded. Other records included 10+ near the Yang Ho on 21/9 and five over Happy Island on 23/9.

Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus

One over Happy Island on 24/9.

Pied (White) Wagtail Motacilla alba

Common and recorded almost daily throughout the tour. Highest daily counts included 28+ on 21/9, 20+ on 23/9 and 15+ on 30/9. All birds racially identified were of the form M. a. leucopsis which breeds widely throughout China.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

Apart from one at Heimahe on 30/9 (Jesper), only recorded along the coast where up to 25 daily were seen between 19/9 and 25/9. As most birds were in immature plumage, it was not possible to establish which form they belonged to.

Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola

Fairly numerous in Qinghai, where 20+ were seen at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 followed by 30+ there on 30/9. In addition, 15+ near Heimahe on 29/9. Occasional singles noted elsewhere. Most were juveniles with only a couple of adults noted.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

Two over Happy Island on 23/9, 24/9 and 25/9.

Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi

Common and recorded daily along the coast between 20/9 and 25/9, with 30+ at the Yang Ho on 21/9, 25+ Happy Island on 23/9, 50+ on 24/9 and 35+ on 25/9.

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni

Common and recorded daily along the coast between 20/9 and 25/9, with peaks of 30+ on 24/9 and 20+ 25/9. In Qinghai, 6+ at Laoye Shan on 27/9 and 6+ again on 1/10.

Pechora Pipit Anthus gustavi

Singles flew over Shanhaiguan, calling, on 20/9 and over the Yang Ho on 21/9. In addition, one in flight over Happy Island on 25/9. The majority have gone through by mid September.

Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus

Common and recorded daily on the coast between 19/9 and 25/9. High counts included 10+ on the Sand Flats at Beidaihe on 19/9, and 20+ on Happy Island on 22/9. Most records involved migrating birds calling in flight but several birds showed extremely well, particularly a bird by the fish ponds at Beidaihe on 20/9.

Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus

Two in flight, calling, over Laoye Shan on 27/9, and a further 12 by the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor later the same day. One by the stream near Heimahe on 29/9 and two there the following morning.

Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta

One seen well by the small river near at Heimahe on 29/9, where two others flew over, calling, the same day.

Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus

Apart from one heard in flight over the Yang Ho on 21/9, only recorded from Happy Island, with 21+ on 24/9 and 15+ on 25/9. Their white underparts makes it difficult to see overflying birds, but some showed well as they perched in trees.

Chinese Bulbul Pycnonotus sinensis

Seen daily on Happy Island with a maximum of 12 on 24/9.

Goldcrest Regulus regulus

At least six on 1/10 in mature fir forest.

Robin Accentor Prunella rubeculoides

Two on Rubber Mountain on 29/9 and one on 1/10.

Rufous-breasted (Rufous-browed) Accentor Prunella strophiata

A minimum of 15 on Laoye Shan on 27/9, one on Rubber Mountain on 29/9 and 11 on 1/10.

Brown Accentor Prunella fulvescens

Two feeding by a small flush on Rubber Mountain on 29/9.

White's (Scaly) Thrush Zoothera dauma

One glimpsed on Happy Island on 24/9 and one showed well in the Small Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 25/9.

Grey-backed Thrush Turdus hortulorum

One on Happy Island on 23/9 and 24/9.

Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus

Only seen on Happy Island, with one on 22/9, four on 23/9, and three on 24/9 and 25/9.

Kessler's (White-backed) Thrush Turdus kessleri

Two flew over Laoye Shan on 27/9.

Dark (Red)-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis

Birds of the nominate Red-throated form were seen at Laoye Shan on 27/9, where at least 50 birds were feeding on the ripening fruit. Not seen on the coast.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis

Four in flight over Happy Island on 25/9.

Chinese Hill Warbler (White-browed Chinese Warbler) Rhopophilus pekinensis

At least four birds showed well at Shanhaiguan on 20/9, where a further 10 or so birds were calling.

Spotted Bush Warbler Bradypterus thoracicus

On Happy Island, a bird in first-winter plumage, lacking the necklace of throat spots, showed well for about two minutes, on 23/9. Birds of the northern breeding populations are increasingly being treated as a distinct species, Siberian Bush Warbler Bradypterus davidi, from Spotted Bush Warbler which inhabits the Himalaya and mountains of western China. This is based upon distinct differences in song and plumage, and it seems likely that this treatment will be generally accepted in the near future.

Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata

Fairly common on Happy Island, with 10+ on 22/9, 4+ on 23/9, 10+ on 24/9 and 3+ on 25/9. In addition, two seen in the Small Wood at Lao Yu Jian on 25/9. Typically, most would flush underfoot, fly a short distance, drop into cover, never to reappear. Occasionally a bird showed well as it skulked about on the edge of a bush, but these views were the exception.

Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler Locustella certhiola

One flush from cover by the Sand Flats at Beidaihe on 19/9. Otherwise, only recorded from Happy Island, with singles on 22/9 and 23/9, and three there on 24/9.

Black-browed Reed Warbler Acrocephalus bistrigiceps

Fairly numerous on the coast, with 8+ near Yang ho on 21/9 followed by 6+ near Beidaihe later the same day. Several recorded daily on Happy Island, with a maximum of 15+ on 24/9.

Oriental Reed Warbler Acrocephalus orientalis

One at Beidaihe on 23/9.

Severtzov’s (Stoliczka's or White-browed) Tit Warbler Leptopoecile sophiae

At least three birds calling on Laoye Shan on 28/9, and two seen briefly, but well, on 1/10. One of Asia’s real gems.

Crested Tit Warbler Leptopoecile elegans

A minimum of six in fir forest on 1/10. An equally stunning gem of a bird.

Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus

The most numerous Phylloscopus, seen daily on the coast between 20/9 and 25/9. Peak estimates included 75+ on 22/9, 50+ on 23/9 and 40+ on 24/9. Not recorded in Qinghai.

Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis

At least 12 at Laoye Shan on 28/9, 6+ on Rubber Mountain on 29/9 including one bird in song, and four on 1/10.

Yellow-streaked Warbler Phylloscopus armandii

Several at Bei Shan, above Xining, on 26/9, and also on Laoye Shan the following day. Most were only heard but the occasional bird showed well. Finally, a further four on 1/10.

Radde's Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi

Only seen on the coast where it was noted daily between 20/9 and 25/9. Apart from four at Shanhaiguan on 20/9, most numerous on Happy Island with 6+ on 23/9 and 25/9, and 10+ there on 24/9.

Pallas's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus proregulus

One showed superbly at the Big Wood near Lao Yu Jian on 22/9. Otherwise, recorded from Happy Island with singles seen or heard there daily. On our final morning, two in the car park at the Sino-Swiss Hotel on 2/10.

Gansu Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus kansuensis

A minimum of 12 on 1/10. Although these birds closely resemble Pallas’s Leaf Warblers, there Wood Warbler-like song reveals their true identity.

Chinese Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus sichuanensis

One heard at Laoye Shan on 28/9, and another heard and glimpsed on 1/10.

Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus

Common along the coast and seen daily between 20/9 and 25/9. Highest counts included 65+ on 22/9, 35+ on 23/9 and 30+ on 24/9. Not recorded in Qinghai.

Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei

Only recorded from Qinghai. One seen and several heard at Bei Shan, above Xining, on 26/9, a minimum of six, possibly as many as 12, at Laoye Shan on 27/9, one heard in a shelter belt near Chaka on 29/9 and at least seven on 1/10. All exhibited the characters of the brighter eastern form P. h. mandellii, which closely resembles Yellow-browed Warbler, but the call and song are compatible with Hume’s Leaf Warbler.

Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis