Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Limosa?s 2004 tour to this exciting region in Central Asia far exceeded our most hoped-for expectations. In just 12 days, we explored the exciting, snow-covered mountains of the mighty Tien Shan, the remote deserts of the deep south, and the endless steppe grasslands of the north. Bordering the eastern limits of the Western Palearctic, Kazakhstan is home to a wealth of exciting and highly sought-after birds, some of which it is simply not possible to see anywhere else, while for others, some of the races that occur here are so different to those that we are familiar with in the west, that it is difficult to believe they belong within the same species. For those who seek the special birds of the central Palearctic, and to do so in comfort, this tour is simply the very best available.

Commencing in the snow-covered mountains of the mighty Tien Shan to the south of Almaty, we spent the best part of three days in search of some of the most sought-after of all Palearctic birds; those species for which this region represents their sole toe-hold within the Palearctic. Here amongst the spruce forests and juniper-clad slopes, we quickly found colourful Eversmann?s and Blue-capped Redstarts flitting through the low scrub, often accompanied by Black-throated Accentors and Red-fronted Serins, while Songar Tits nested close-by. At higher elevations, gorgeous Himalayan (White-tailed) Rubythroats vied for our attention with huge White-winged Grosbeaks and the somewhat dowdy Red-mantled Rosefinches. The snow covered summits were home to some very special birds, and here we delighted at the sight of a male Güldenstädt?s Redstart courting his female, Himalayan Snowcocks stalking across the snowfields and Altai Accentors flitting amongst scree-covered slopes, allowing everyone great views. At Big Almaty Lake, set amidst a winter wonderland of snow-covered forests, we managed to locate a pair of that most highly sought-after shorebird of the high Himalaya ? Ibisbill; here furtively feeding along the shore of a boulder-strewn river. A more superb setting would be hard to imagine.

Our days in the desert were spent under canvas, not small two-person tents but large, walk-in tents complete with beds! Camping could not be a more pleasant experience, and with our highly capable ground crews to look after us, we enjoyed some of the best meals of the entire tour, right amongst some of the very special birds. Where else can you eat breakfast accompanied by Macqueen?s Bustard, Demoiselle Crane, Desert Warbler, Grey-necked Bunting and a plethora of larks? Mighty Himalayan Griffon Vulture, enigmatic Pallas?s Sandgrouse and delightful Mongolian and Desert Finches all occurred nearby, and all add to this exciting and unique experience. At the time of our visit, migrants abounded, and in this vast, treeless region, any patches of small trees or water seepages acted like magnets to a wealth of transients ranging from Terek Sandpiper and Black-throated Thrush to Sykes?s Warbler and Nightingales ? but what Nightingales, these eastern birds of the race hafizi have to be seen to be believed! An excursion to the Turanga forest bordering the Ili River yielded Saxaul Sparrow, White-winged Woodpecker, Turkestan Tit and Yellow-eyed Stock Dove, a localised a rapidly declining species which still remains numerous here. Nearby pools held good numbers of wetlands birds but it was the seriously cute Azure Tits that everyone wanted to take home as a pet.

Our last few days in the steppe grasslands of the north bought a substantial change in the birds. Set in vast and seemingly endless grasslands, we were soon delighting at the sight of abundant White-winged and Black Larks, endangered Sociable Plovers, stunning Great Black-headed Gulls, ethereal Pallid Harriers and dainty Red-footed Falcons. Occasional reed-fringed pools and scrub-covered hollows brought us White-headed Duck, Pine Buntings, numerous Booted Warblers and everyone?s favourites, those skulking Locustella warblers.

All too soon, we had to tear ourselves away from this wonderful country. We had experienced the very best of Central Asia and had a wonderful adventure, with so many memories that will long linger with us.

Sunday, 9th May Our Lufthansa flight to Almaty proceeded with typical German efficiency, and we arrived at the newly opened airport just before midnight. The former red-tape and bureaucracy that had dogged entry into this outpost of the former Soviet empire was long gone. In its place, the welcoming smiles of helpful staff and efficient management made entry a simple and straightforward affair. We were met by Dan from our ground agent and whisked away to the Hotel in downtown Almaty amidst a torrential downpour.

Monday, 10th May Our plans for an early start in the adjacent park were thwarted by continuing rain, which was to dog us for much of the day. We eventually emerged into a damp and dreary Almaty morning at 07.00 hrs, and managed views of Hume?s Leaf, Greenish and Blyth?s Leaf Warblers in the dull half-light. Tour manager Dauren, our local leader Victoria, and Yuliya charged with fixing everything, met us in the hotel at 09.00 hrs, and shortly after we were off to the mountains. Almaty proved to be a delightfully green and well-wooded city and as we drive through the outer suburbs, Victoria told us something about the history and background of Almaty, as well as what we could expect during the coming two weeks. Our first stop was at a ranging torrent, a stake out for Dippers, and we soon had Dipper, of white-bellied race leucogaster, safely on the list. Our next stop brought outstanding views of Blue Whistling Thrush, a widespread bird in the Oriental region, but which extends into the Palearctic in the Tien Shan Mountains of southern Kazakhstan. Although it was still raining, we opted for a walk near the hotel, but saw little except during a brief, fifteen minute, period when the rain ceased and the sun appeared. As if by magic, birds appeared. A male Eversmann?s Redstart, followed by several Black-throated Accentors, three or four Blue-capped Redstarts and a female Stonechat, an unlikely migrant at these elevations, and Oriental Turtle Doves were the stars, along with lesser fare such as Coal Tits and a rather damp Sparrowhawk. Given the low cloud and snowy conditions, a revised strategy was called for. Ibisbills. Why not? We had to try for these some time, so why not now, a great bird to raise the spirits, and as these were on the Big Almaty Lake, our chances seemed fair if the cloud cleared. After lunch we put the plan into action; the rain stopped, the mist lifted (just) and we were set. The path skirted the shore of the lake and after walking for a kilometre or so, we arrived at some likely-looking gravel. Being covered in snow, this actually helped us to pick out this boulder-coloured bird which, at times, can be a nightmare to find. Soon, an Ibisbill flew in and another was spotted running across the snow-covered gravel. Everyone enjoyed prolonged, if rather distant, views of this enigmatic shorebird of the Asian mountains. A Northern Wheatear looked lost, but was probably fine, but our hoped for Songar Tits were not using their preferred box this year. A good start, but we needed the weather to improve. That evening, I went out for a short walk and the sky was a myriad of stars. This boded well for the morrow.

Tuesday, 11th May We awoke to glorious sunshine and our worst fears had evaporated. A stroll up the road from the hotel quickly produced Songar Tit at the nest, several Red-fronted Serins and a couple of Goldfinches of the distinctive form caniceps, which lacks the black band around the face. Given the superb weather, we opted for an assault on the summit. Our trusty bus reached the Observatory in 45 minutes then set about ascending the summit road. Here the going became interesting as our driver, Nikolai, coaxed his machine up the ice-bound road. Victoria, ever alert, soon spotted a couple of Himalayan Snowcocks wandering across a distant snowfield, which showed well. Eventually, however, yesterdays snow defeated Nikolai, and we had no choice but to climb the last kilometre or so to the Cosmic Ray Station at the top of the pass. As we climbed, an ancient Russian bulldozer came clanking down the road, clearing a huge pile of snow before it. Our strategy worked well and long before we got there, we had been able to ?scope a male Güldenstädt's Redstart on the most distant buildings. Within the hour, we were at the top watching the male courting his female while, nearby, Red and Yellow-billed Choughs cavorted and the tinkling song of a Brown Accentor drifted across the snow. Then Nikolai appeared, complete with trusty bus. Some had missed Altai Accentor on the climb up but, a fortunate roadside stop saw us stop next to a feeding bird by the roadside. A highly successful morning and so it was back to the hotel for lunch. The afternoon was spent near the Observatory. Try as we might, we could not find any Himalayan Rubythroats, but this was more than made up for by the relative abundance of Severtsov?s Tit Warblers. Often, these gems can be tricky to find, but today, they were positively throwing themselves at us, and we saw no less than five birds, mostly males and moistly for prolonged periods. With these came White-winged Grosbeaks and Eversmann?s Redstarts. A superb day.

Wednesday, 12th May Our strategy of an early start up the mountain to the Observatory and into the adjacent Marble Valley proved to be sound move. Our trusty old bus got us most of the way there, but we still had a km or so to walk, mostly on frost-hardened snow, to the accompaniment of yodelling snowcocks. Soon, we reached a patch of attractive open spruce forest with a thick juniper understorey and within minutes were watching a male White-winged Grosbeak picking at the newly emerging juniper shoots. A subdued song soon had us onto a cracking male Himalayan Rubythroat, one of the star birds of the tour, while a few minutes later a female then a male Red-mantled Rosefinch popped into view and allows prolonged views as they perched on top of the spruces. The morning had gone well and we had managed to see almost everything we had hoped for. With these birds seen and seen well, we could now devote time to searching for Brown Dipper on the lower slopes. We didn?t have to wait long for, shortly after leaving the hotel, one was spotted on a rock in a small stream. It flew as we came to a halt, so Victoria and I went off after it. Knowing that dippers turn back on themselves when they reach the limit of their territories, this could have been a long walk but fortunately, we didn?t have far to go, and we soon relocated it, persuaded it to retreat, and it obligingly then sat on a rock for all to enjoy. It then flew for miles downstream. Lucky! A couple of Blue Whistling Thrushes and a flock of distant Bactrian Camels were the highlight of the descent. In Almaty, we switched transport, changing from our solid Russian back-breaker to an altogether more feeble construction of German manufacture. Travelling east on good roads, our first stop revealed Lesser Grey and the only Long-tailed Shrike of the tour. We took lunch by a peaceful arboretum where Greenfinches wheezed, an Azure Tit showed briefly to a fortunate few, a White-crowned Penduline Tit fed from a Phragmites head, and we enjoyed our first looks at Nightingale of the eastern form, hafizi. What amazing birds these are, they neither look like, sound like, or behave like Nightingales in my local woodland! A dark morph Booted Eagle soaring over the road quickly lead to singing Corn Buntings, both lifers for Lois. Next on the menu were the White-crowned Penduline Tits. Victoria knew of two nests. At the first, no birds were in attendance in mid-afternoon, but at the second, a partially complete affair eight metres above the ground in a roadside Russian Olive, there was considerably more activity. Nest construction was in full flow with both birds in attendance, and we enjoyed watching these birds delicately weave and shape their hanging nest, oblivious to the pair of Hobbies nesting just two trees away. By the time we returned to the bus, the other pair were active again, so we stayed a little longer. We still had a long way to drive so we were soon ushered back into the bus. We continued east towards the Kokpek Pass, a reliable stake out for White-capped and Rock Buntings, but not when the sun is going down. Better luck tomorrow. As we drove across the vast Sogeti Plain, numerous kestrels, many we thought probably Lessers hovered by the roadside and Isabelline Wheatears flicked up from the roadside. With our camp in sight, we had our first puncture of the tour, something that we were to become accustomed to over the next couple of days until we had a complete change of tyres. This in itself was not a concern for us as we strolled across the desert to our camp to the accompaniment of singing Tawny Pipits, Isabelline Wheatears, Linnets and Grey-necked Buntings. We were extremely pleased by the camp; large roomy tents that it was possible to stand in, a large dining tent and showers for those who wanted one. With a supply of cold beers from Almaty, we retired happily to our tents this evening.

Thursday, 13th May Situated close to the shores of Bartogoy Lake, our camp held great potential despite a lack of suitable cover to hold migrants. We were drawn from our tents by the delicate wheezing song of a couple of Grey-necked Buntings competing against each other from adjacent hill tops. A brief walk in scrub near the tents produced several Isabelline Shrikes, a couple of Pied Wheatears, a Tawny Pipit in song flight, two Shore Larks of the white-faced form brandti and a Stonechat. The lake itself held several small parties of duck, mostly Garganey, but also Wigeon, Shoveler and Goosander. Following breakfast, we drove to the upper reaches of the Charyn River, stopping en-route to enjoy a fine male Rock Sparrow, plus a couple of Steppe Eagles and Red-billed Choughs. As our intended quarry, Himalayan Griffon Vulture was not on show when we arrived, we took lunch at this delightful spot overlooking the deep gorge. Several Eurasian Griffons appeared, as did a pair of Black Vultures, four Alpine Swifts and a couple of Crag Martins, but it was only as we were packing up to leave that the first Himalayan Griffon appeared. Soon another put in an appearance, then another, all appearing crisply pied against an azure sky. An immature then appeared, much darker than any of the Eurasian Griffons and seemingly dwarfing them when seen alongside. Several stops later and we had seen most of our target birds so we opted to visit the Charyn Red Gorge, one of Kazakhstan?s more spectacularly scenic tourist honeypots. A small flock of birds drinking in pools in the track left by recent rains proved to be Mongolian Finches, always a tricky bird to see and one that is frequently overlooked. Again the photographers leapt into gear and managed a few shots, although they were surprisingly wary, and with several pools to choose from, picking the best pool was not easy. Our second puncture of the day followed shortly after this. That evening, the views of a crescent Venus were outstanding in the clean, crisp, desert air!

Friday, 14th May An early start, complete with packed breakfast, was called for, as today would be our best chance to see Pallas?s Sandgrouse, a near mythical species endemic to the deserts of Central Asia, and a bird that was high on the list of priorities for just about everyone on the tour. The drive to the now-deserted research station at Nurly went without a hitch and we arrived shortly after 08.15 hrs. Sandgrouse regularly come in to drink at the artesian well here, and we were soon watching a party of three Black-bellied Sandgrouse circling over the pool and later dropping in to drink. Desert Finches, and House Sparrows of the distinctive migratory form P. d. bactrianus were also here in abundance. These birds are so unlike the resident House Sparrows that the Russian authorities treat these birds as a full species, distinct from House Sparrow. After waiting for an hour or so, a single Pallas?s Sandgrouse flew over calling, giving good but brief views, but continued on into the desert. A short walk through the surrounding scrub revealed a pair of Sykes?s Warblers, a first-summer male Montagu?s Harrier and another two Pallas?s Sandgrouse, but again only in flight. Returning to camp, we stopped briefly at a roadside colony of Pale Martins, a distinctive hirundine that is becoming increasingly recognised as being a species distinct from Sand Martin. Watching these birds at ranges down to 20 metres as they entered and left their breeding burrows, and in flight overhead, the differences between these birds and Sand Martins were readily appreciated. A brief stop at the Kokpek Pass produced a singing male Rock Bunting and a Golden Eagle but little else of interest, so we returned early to camp for lunch. That done, all too soon it was time to return to Almaty, but we did investigate another valley in the Kokpek Pass which, at last, produced four singing male White-capped Buntings plus a Red-headed Bunting. The drive to Almaty was an uneventful affair, enlivened only by a brief stop where a pair of Golden Orioles and a singing Nightingale held the star billing.

Saturday, 15th May A brief stroll around the Panfilov Guards Park, dedicated to the memory of a brigade of martyrs from Almaty who gave their lives resisting the German advance on Moscow, produced a pair of Hobbies along with Hume?s Leaf, Greenish and Blyth?s Reed Warblers. Cuckoos called and Common Rosefinches were pleased to meet us. Driving east, we had planned to stop at Lake Sorbulak, home to a wealth of wetland birds including a large breeding colony of Dalmatian Pelicans. As we neared Sorbulak, the wind started to increase and by the time we reached the dam, a gale blowing that would not have been out of place in the North Atlantic in the middle of winter. By crouching dnwn behind the wall we managed decent views of pelicans and Caspian Gulls, but not much else, and the prospects of seeing anything on the far side were rated between slim and zero ? and slim had just left town. Cutting our losses, we continued on towards our camp at Konshengol, but stopped when we met the camp crew returning to Almaty. Yes, the tents were up, albeit an hour ago, and the cook and his assistants were still there. Would the tents still be up when we got there? Would the cook be lashed to a tent heading for Mongolia? Only time would tell. Still the wind increased and a darkening of the sky indicated that a sandstorm was heading our way. Before long we were immersed within it, but fortunately this was not the stuff from Boy?s Own, in fact it was a pretty insignificant event, and once through, the wind had lessened significantly. Arriving in Konshengol, we were amazed to find fifty or more Black Kites taking refuge from the wind in the lee of the trees surrounding a small farm. A closer look revealed a plethora of small passerines also feeding along this relatively sheltered belt of trees. By approaching carefully, we spent the next hour enjoyed Greenish and Hume?s Leaf Warblers, Lesser Whitethroats, Red-backed Shrikes, Great Reed Warblers, Golden Orioles and Nightingales (when did you ever see a Nightingale pump and cock its tail like a Rufous Bush Robin?), while a Black-throated Thrush was, briefly, the star of the afternoon, at least for Charles. By the time were reached our camp in late afternoon, the wind had abated, the tents were largely intact and the cook wasn?t in Mongolia. A quick cup of tea was followed by a pair of Brown-necked Ravens at the artesian well, never easy birds to see well. Although they didn?t stay long, one returned a few minutes later carrying an Agamid lizard, which it tenderly washed in the pool before flying into the desert to consume. A couple of nearby marshy pools held both European and Oriental Turtle Doves alongside several beema Yellow Wagtails and a collection of small shorebirds that included Wood, Green, Terek and Common Sandpipers, Temminck?s Stint and a Sanderling. Finally, as evening approached, we awaited developments by the well. A Macqueen?s Bustard flew low overhead and landed in the desert, unfortunately rather too distant to fully appreciate its subtle beauty, while three Demoiselle Cranes were even more distant. Small birds, including diminutive Greater and Lesser Short-toed Larks, alongside the more hulking Calandra and Bimaculated Larks, came and went but the hoped for Greater Sand and Caspian Plovers didn?t materialise.

Sunday, 16th May We started the day at the artesian well adjacent to the camp where several Yellow Wagtails were feeding along with two rather nondescript pipits. Their plain, unmarked mantles and heavily streaked underparts placed them within the Water Pipit complex, but why did they still lack all trace of non-breeding plumage while their counterparts in the Tien Shan had been occupying breeding territories, and in breeding plumage, a week ago? It is these unresolved mysteries that form the real spice of birding. The distant male Macqueen?s Bustard still sat on his sandy ridge, but in better light this morning, allowing everyone decent looks through the ?scope at 60x magnification. Had he been there all night? Today was a day we had long anticipated, a visit to the Turanga forest. But first, we had to get there, and this involved a two-hour drive through the desert, briefly turned glowing yellow and delicate shades of green following the winter rains. In just two weeks, all this colour would be lost as the desert bakes under an unrelenting sun. For us though, our timing was perfect and the botanists amongst us were in their element. We resisted most temptations to stop along the way, but a pallidirostris Southern Grey Shrike brought us to a halt, as did a Lesser Spotted Eagle circling low above the road. As the Ili River approaches Lake Balkhash, it broadens into a vast inland delta, and flowing largely over sand, water is able to diffuse easily to form a series of well vegetated pools that are a haven for wildlife in this otherwise inhospitable region. More of this later though, as the goal was to press on for our target birds. A male Shikra perched atop a roadside post called for another briefish halt, while a Stock Dove that we would have liked to have seen better simply insisted on flying in front of the bus. We eventually arrived at the small village of Zhelturanga, where Nightingales sang and Lesser Whitethroats of the race S. c. halimodendri were building a nest in a large clump of long-dead tumbleweed. A male Sykes?s Warbler gave good views to all, but our target bird here, Saxaul Sparrow, lead us on a merry dance. Eventually we managed to pin down a pair nest building in a mausoleum, but as they arrived and departed quickly, it took quite some time before everyone had the views they desired. Fortunately, our remaining targets, Yellow-eyed Stock Dove, White-winged Woodpecker and Turkestan Tit presented no such problems. We had them all within five minutes of entering the open Turanga woodland. Turanga Populus diversifolia is an endemic poplar, restricted to inland river deltas of Central Asia and forms a narrow band of woodland that borders the river for several km inland. Its heavily gnarled bark with numerous holes provides an essential refuge for these three highly localised species. Apart from Jackdaws, and an occasional Redstart or Nightingale, other birds were few and far between here. Following a short lunch, we started on the long drive back to camp, but with so much still to see, numerous stops were inevitable. Victoria heard a Penduline Tit calling from the moving bus. Screeching to a halt, we soon had managed to find the beast but getting decent views in the dense Phragmites proved to be something of a challenge. Fortunately, the male responded to a tape of the European bird and eventually sat out in the open ? a most interesting individual with a rich chocolate crown, nape and mantle offset by a white chin and throat. Clearly not macronyx as we had hoped, but the form R. p. caspius, a bird that, in theory, should not be here, but since when did birds do what was expected of them? Nearby, Black Terns hawked over roadside pools and throughout, we were never far from the song of Cetti?s Warblers, which seemed to occupy every patch of bushes. We still had one special bird to find, Azure Tit. Although some of the group had seen it earlier, most still needed to see it, and this region presented us with our best chance. A couple of casual roadside stops drew a blank so Victoria and I started a systematic search along the roadside. After some 600 metres, we heard one, summoned the group, played the tape and out it popped. Easy! Back at camp, a brief scan of the pools by the artesian well produced a pair of Greater Sand Plovers and the mystery pipits were still here, but little else. As this was our last night here, some opted to wander through the desert in search of Desert Warbler and Caspian Plover, two high profile species that had eluded us so far. We walked for what seemed like miles and still failed to turn up these two mythical species. Another Greater Sand Plover briefly got the old pulse racing, but in the end we had to concede defeat. Not Victoria though, she persisted, and just 400 metres from the camp walked us into a singing male Desert Warbler! Wonderful. One of Central Asia?s more enigmatic species. We returned to camp somewhat chastened, being 45 minutes late for dinner but, what the heck, we can eat any time, Desert Warblers are special.

Monday, 17th May The day started early with a churring European Nightjar in the pre-dawn gloom, followed by a Desert Warbler near the camp. A brief scan of the pool by the artesian well, which produced little of interest so an early breakfast was rapidly organised. Shortly after breakfast we set off for a distant artesian well, one that we had not previously visited, but which was reputedly the best for sandgrouse. By 09.00 hrs many Black-bellied Sandgrouse had appeared but the hoped-for Pin-tailed was not to be seen. While waiting, we enjoyed brief views of a couple of Mongolian Finches and an Ortolan Bunting. A particularly dull, drab and poorly marked female Greater Sand Plover, disturbed off a nest, necessitated a double take before we convinced ourselves that it was just another sand plover. An hour by the camel station at Konshengol produced a bevy of migrants including a showy Rufous Bush Robin, a couple of Barred Warblers, several Lesser Whitethroats, Greenish and Hume?s Leaf Warblers, Temminck?s Stint and an unexpected male Brambling. While waiting to refuel the bus at Konshengol, a roosting nightjar was discovered allowing the photographers an opportunity to use copious quantities of film. While watching this, a Long-eared Owl casually drifted in at knee height, narrowly missing myself and Cynthia, then sat up in the trees in full view for all to enjoy. Driving south through a desert ablaze with the flush from millions of poppies, Victoria soon brought the bus to a grinding halt when she spotted our first White-winged Lark. Piling out, we soon found three more, and savoured this most highly sought-after resident of the steppes of Central Asia. This was a bird we had expected to see near Astana, not here in the desert, but apparently numbers have increased dramatically in this region in the last two years, and from the moving bus, we found another fifteen or more in the next ten minutes. Next came a female Macqueen?s Bustard walking down the middle of the road! As we slowly approached, it casually sauntered off to the side and walk past us just 25 metres away. Now those are the views we wanted, but not sure that we deserved such good fortune. What a superb bird! Driving onto Tamgaly Tas, a World Heritage Site renown for its ancient petroglyphs, we paused here to search for Eastern Rock Nuthatch. The first nest that Victoria knew of had been vandalised, while second had already been used this year and the chicks had departed. Being confident that there must still be birds in the area, we wandered along a narrow valley and out onto the upper slopes. While others waited, Victoria, Peter and I searched the rocky crags and within ten minutes had discovered a new nest where the female was feeding a brood of youngsters. Coaxing the group another 250 metres up the valley was easy and all soon enjoyed ?scope views of the female as she repeatedly returned to the nest. Everyone took time out to photograph the petroglyphs and watch the Pied Wheatears, while Ian luckily walked into a male of the white-throated form, vittata. The drive to Almaty was an uneventful experience, although the large number of Rollers resting on overhead wires added spice to the otherwise mundane task of counting typically roadside species, including Rooks, Jackdaws, Magpies, Rose-coloured Starlings and Common Mynas.

Tuesday, 18th May Our early morning flight on Air Astana to Astana departed and arrived on time. Here we were met at the airport by Alexander (formerly known as Sasha), who whisked us away to our hotel for our third breakfast of the morning! Several cups of tea later and we were ready to leave. Driving to the southeast, Alexander soon had us disembarking by a small orchard where a pair of Long-eared Owls were nesting. As we had enjoyed such good looks at LEOs the previous day, these birds only received a cursory glance as we realised the orchard was heaving with migrants. Most proved to be Booted Warblers and Lesser Whitethroats but amongst them we found several Common Whitethroats and Greenish Warblers, a couple of Barred Warblers, Whinchat, Redstart, at least three Nightingales and a Bluethroat. One Nightingale seemed a shade darker than the others and soon the cry of ?Sprosser? echoed across the plains, being heard as far away as distant Omsk. Another personal ambition fulfilled. Amazingly, it sat up in a tree for several minutes, allowing us all great ?scope views. We were surprised at just how grey and sullied the underparts were, being much darker than those of the birds breeding in Finland. While all this was going on, Victoria was having fun, playing cat-and-mouse with her own mystery Phyllosc, although, fortunately, one that is much commoner in Britain than Sprosser. With all this excitement, we had overlooked the booming Bitterns in the marshes and Black-winged Pratincoles flying overhead. Time to refocus our efforts. We were here in search of Sociable Plover and we visited a couple of likely looking spots but drew a blank. The next stop turned up trumps, when a pair were found by the shores of a bovine-infested pool, the male quite stunning in his breeding finery, while his dowdy mate was somewhat less appealing, at least to us. More Black-winged Pratincoles flew overhead and innumerable Ruff graced the grasslands and pools. Wanting more shorebirds, we headed off to a small salt lake that had held a Caspian Plover four days earlier. Alas, it there was no sign of it today, but the muddy shoreline was alive with waders; Little and Temminck?s Stints, Curlew, Marsh, Terek and Wood Sandpipers, both godwits, and much more. By now it was getting rather warm, in fac

Annotated Checklist of the Birds

Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena

Singles near Topar on 16th and on a lake near the Nura River to the southwest of Astana on 18th. At least 15 on Bashan Lake, on the outskirts of Astana, on 20th.

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

Rather scarce in the south with two on 14th, three on 15th and six on 16th. More numerous near Astana with three on 18th, at least 15 on 19th and 20+ on 20th.

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

Six on pools near Topar on 16th and 25+ on various lakes/pools near Astana on 20th, including 6+ on Bashan Lake.

Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus

Ten on Lake Sorbulak on 15th, three near Topar on 16th, 20+ in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th and three plus a single bird over Lake Bashan on 20th.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Five on Lake Sorbulak on 15th and four on pools, or in flight, near Topar on 16th, while in the north, two on 19th in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve, and 4+ on various lakes near Astana on 20th.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Occasional singles or pairs noted on 12th, 15th, 16th, 18th, 19th and 20th.

Great Egret Ardea alba

Singles noted on 12th, 14th and 16th, while in the north, 15+ in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Eurasian Bittern Botaurus stellaris

At least two booming males heard in reedbeds southwest of Astana on 18th and one booming at Lake Bashan on 20th.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra

One in flight over the upper reaches of the Charyn River gorge on 13th was the only record.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

Only seen on 19th, with at least 14 present on a salt lake in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve, and two on the small lake near Zhumay village later the same day.

Mute Swan Cygnus olor

At least 30 on a salt lake in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th and two on Lake Bashan on 20th.

Whooper Swan Cygnus cygnus

A single plus a pair in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Greylag Goose Anser anser

Six feeding in a wet field by the roadside approximately 12 km to the southwest of Astana on 18th, 30+ in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th and at least ten on various lakes around Astana on 20th.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

Common throughout the south, where it was recorded on lakes in the mountains and grasslands, and around artesian wells in the desert. Recorded daily between 10th and 17th, with a daily maximum of 12 on 16th.

Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna

Only seen in the north, with at least 30 on 18th and 40+ on 19th.

Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope

Four on the lake by the Bartogoy camp on 13th, a female on the small pool at the camel station at Konshengol on 15th, four to the southwest of Astana on 18th and two in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Gadwall Anas strepera

Only recorded in the north, with at least 15 on 18th, 10 on 19th and 20+ on 20th.

Eurasian (Common) Teal Anas crecca

A pair plus a female on 19th in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve, and two males near Lake Bashan on 20th.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

At least 10 on 18th, 20 on 19th and 14 on 20th.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta

Only seen on the wetlands surrounding Astana, with six on 18th, 15 on 19th and one on 20th.

Garganey Anas querquedula

One of the most numerous ducks, with at least 21 on Lake Bartogoy on 13th, followed by three there the next day, one on 15th, two at Topar on 16th, eight on 18th, 45+ in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve, on 19th and 40+ on various pools near Astana on 20th.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata

Lake Bartogoy held a flock of 12 on 13th, with just two there the following day. In the north, six on 18th, 20+ on 19th in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve, and a similar number on pools near Astana on 20th.

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

Four on Lake Sorbulak on 15th and 15+ on pools near Topar on 16th. In the north, one female on 18th, six birds in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th and 12+ near Astana on 20th.

Common Pochard Aythya ferina

Two females on Lake Bartogoy on 13th, two near Topar on 16th, three pairs on 18th to the southwest of Astana, 12+ in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve, on 19th and at least 250 on Lake Bashan, near Astana, on 20th.

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca

Two pairs noted on roadside pools in the Ili River delta, near Topar, on 16th.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula

Only seen in the north, with three pairs on 18th, two on 19th and 60+ on Lake Bashan on 20th.

Long-tailed Duck Clangula hyemalis

A first-summer male on Lake Bashan on 20th.

Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula

At least 12 on Lake Bashan on 20th, including adult and first-summer males, along with females, although there was no suggestion of breeding here.

Goosander Mergus merganser

Two males on Lake Bartogoy on 13th, followed by three males and a female there the following day.

European Honey-buzzard Pernis apivorus

One dark morph individual, disturbed from roadside bushes some 90 km to the southwest of Astana on 19th, showed well as it circled directly overhead.

Black Kite Milvus migrans

Small numbers noted most days throughout the south, although most numerous in the desert near Konshengol, where migrants were moving to the north. On 15th, during a day of strong winds, a minimum of 53 birds were sheltering in the lee of the trees surrounding a small farm/camel station at Konshengol, where they were perching in the trees, on the fence and on the ground. Much scarcer in the north, with just three birds noted on 19th in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve.

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus

A near-adult in flight over the plain near the Kokpek Pass on 14th.

Himalayan Griffon Vulture Gyps himalayensis

One of Kazakhstan?s rarer breeding species, so we were fortunate to see four adults and at least one immature above the upper Charyn River gorge on 13th.

Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus

A party of four, followed by a couple of single birds above the upper Charyn River gorge on 13th. Seen well in flight alongside Himalayan Griffon, allowing differences in size, structure and plumages to be compared and fully appreciated.

Eurasian Black Vulture Aegypius monachus

Four adults above the upper Charyn River gorge on 13th showed extremely well. These were followed the next day by a distant pair over the plain to the west of Nurly.

Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus

The only record was of a single bird above the upper Charyn River gorge on 13th.

Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

Common over marshes in the north, with eight on 18th, 20+ on 19th and 10+ on 20th.

Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus

Only seen on 19th, when at least ten birds, including adult and first-summer males, and females, were hunting over on steppe grassland to the southwest of Astana in or near the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve.

Montagu's Harrier Circus pygargus

An adult male and first-summer male hunting the fields near Nurly on 14th followed by a first-summer male and a female on 16th near Topar. In the north, a minimum of 12 noted on 19th.

Shikra Accipiter badius

A male perched on a roadside post in the Ili River delta near Zhelturanga on 15th showed extremely well, allowing all to enjoy prolonged telescope views. Later the same day, a pair in flight above the road in the same area.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

A female perched in a tree above the Alpine Rose hotel on 10th was drying itself after a spell of torrential rain. This individual was seen again, in the same tree, the following day. Singles also noted on 13th, 14th and 15th.

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo

A single bird of the migratory form B. b. vulpinus, often referred to as Steppe Buzzard, near the Charyn River on 13th.

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus

Common in deserts and grasslands of the south, where it was seen daily between 12th and 17th, with a daily maximum of 12 on 13th and again on 17th. Nests were found by Lake Bartogoy and at Tamgaly Tas, the latter containing four small chicks. A single bird in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th was the only record in the north.

Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina

A first-summer bird in flight, low over the road, near Topar on 15th was the only record.

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis

A first-summer bird above the Charyn River on 13th was followed by an adult, or near-adult, in the same area later the same day. In the north, four in an area of recently burned steppe grassland near the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve were clearly looking for easy pickings.

Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos

A first-summer bird in the Tien Shan mountains above the Observatory on 11th. To the east, an immature and adult showed well above the Kokpek Pass on 14th.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

A dark morph bird in flight by the road some 80 km to the east of Almaty on 12th was watched for several minutes, when it went into a steep dive and dropped onto a prey item just 50m from where we were standing. It eventually flew off carrying a small mammal.

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni

Only seen along the roadside leading to the Bartogoy Camp, with six on 12th, four on 13th and an adult male on 14th. These birds were watched dismembering insects in flight and regularly observed perching on roadside posts and overhead wires. Most flew when approached but occasional birds allowed a close approach.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Common, widespread and recorded daily in all habitats visited. Most numerous in the Lake Bartogoy region with up to 14 seen daily, possibly more, as many distant kestrels were not specifically identified to species. Up to 12 daily in the Konshengol area and eight daily in the Astana area.

Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus

Only recorded in the Astana region, where this delightful species breeds in disused crow nests in low, roadside trees. Three noted on 18th, followed by at least 20 the following day and two on 20th. Many of these birds gave superb views as they perched by their nests or on overhead wires. Birds even breed within Astana itself, with eight noted between the city and the airport on 19th.

Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo

Singles or pairs noted daily between 12th and 17th. A pair nesting in roadside trees some 120 km to the south-east of Almaty gave wonderful views and seemed quite unconcerned by our presence.

Himalayan Snowcock Tetraogallus himalayensis

Thanks to some brilliant spotting by Victoria, a pair was watched for over 20 minutes, walking across a distant snowfield above the Observatory on 11th. The haunting cries of a male were heard above the Observatory the next morning.

Chukar Partridge Alectoris chukar

Only seen in the Kokpek Pass where it was common and readily found, with four on 12th and at least three in the same area on 14th.

Grey Partridge Perdix perdix

A pair feeding in burnt steppe grassland in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix

Singles calling in fields to the southeast of Almaty on 12th May, and in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th. In addition, one flushed underfoot in the desert near our camp at Konshengol on 16th.

Ring-necked (Common) Pheasant Phasianus colchicus

Singles heard in the Marble Valley above the Observatory on 12th, in roadside fields to the southeast of Almaty later the same day and in the Topar area on 16th. In addition, a female seen by the roadside en-route to Konshengol on 15th.

Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo

This delightful crane was one of the most sought after species on this tour, and it fully lived up to all expectations, as we enjoyed wonderful views at close range. Two pairs feeding close to the roadside as we drove across the vast Sogeti Plain on 13th allowed photographers to film away to their heart?s content. Two noted nearby the following day and one as we approached Nurly on 15th. Three distant birds seen in the desert at Konshengol in the evening of 16th. In the Astana area, singles and small parties totalling at least 20 birds seen as we drove out to the southwest of the city on 18th and at least eight seen on 19th, some within the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve, and others noted en-route.

Common Crane Grus grus

Two single birds noted to the southwest of Astana en-route to the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Singles on 16th near Topar and on a small, reed-fringed pool outside Astana on 20th.

Common Coot Fulica atra

Two on 15th and at least 30 on roadside pools near Topar on 16th. More numerous in the north, with at least ten on 18th, 20+ on 19th and 30+ on 20th.

Macqueen's Bustard Chlamydotis macqueenii

Another highly desired species which fully lived up to all expectations. Shortly after our arrival at Konshengol camp on 15th, one flew low over our heads but unfortunately landed some way off in the desert. Later that evening, a closer male was ?scoped on a nearby ridge. This male was seen again, in better light, the following morning. As we drove south from the village of Konshengol towards Tamgaly Tas on 17th, a female was wandering along the road in front of the bus and we were able to approach to within 30 metres as it casually walked off the road and back past the bus. One of the great memories of this tour.

Ibisbill Ibidorhyncha struthersii

A pair feeding on gravel-lined shores of the small river that entered the Big Almaty Lake, below the Observatory, on 10th. Although views were somewhat distant and, at times, obscured by low cloud, we were eventually able to enjoy prolonged views as the birds fed, flew around and ran at great speed across the sandy substrate and shingle ridges. The following day, one of this pair was found, at extreme range, by Peter and Sean, as they ?scoped the shingle banks from the dam wall. A rare breeder in Kazakhstan with an estimate of just 75 pairs in the country.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Noted daily between 15th and 20th, with counts of 20+ on pools near Topar on 16th and 15+ by Shalkar and Sholak Lakes in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avocetta

Eight on Shalkar and Sholak Lakes in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Black-winged Pratincole Glareola nordmanni

At least 15, mostly in flight and rather distant, to the southwest of Astana on 18th, followed by 60+ by Sholak Lake in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th. Some of the birds seen on the latter date were clearly breeding and afforded us some wonderful views, both at rest and in flight.

Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus

Scarce in the south, with one bird, undoubtedly the same individual, seen on a roadside pool near our camp at Lake Bartogoy on 12th, 13th and 14th. On 15th, en-route from Almaty to Konshengol, four were seen on roadside wetlands. More numerous in the north, with estimates of 12+ on 18th, 20+ on 19th and 15+ on 20th.

Sociable Lapwing Vanellus gregarius

A pair of this most sought-after shorebird was eventually tracked down as they fed by a small lake some 70 km to the southwest of Astana on 18th. The plumage and structural differences between the male and female was quite striking. The world population of this attractive bird is in sharp decline for, as yet, unknown reasons. This was, perhaps, the most threatened species we encountered during the tour.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

At least 15 by a salt lake near the Nura River on 18th and four at Lake Bashan on 20th.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

Seen daily between 12th and 20th wherever suitable wetlands occurred.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

A male by Sholak Lake in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th was the only record.

Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii

A pair came in to feed at the artesian well near our camp at Konshengol on 16th and a different female was found later the same evening while walking in the desert. The following day, a poorly marked female, clearly disturbed from a nest and giving a broken wing distraction display, was seen to the south of our camp.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

One feeding by an artesian well near the Konshengol camp on 17th.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

Only seen on wetlands in the north where it was fairly common and possibly breeding. Counts included 12+ on 18th, 30+ on 19th and two on 20th. All birds were of the nominate form, characterised by their large size, disproportionately long, orange-based bills and poorly marked breeding plumage.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

Six adults in breeding plumage at a salt lake near the Nura River on 18th.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

At least 12 adults in breeding plumage at a small salt lake near the Nura River on 18th, followed by two at Sholak Lake in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th and two at Bashan Lake on 20th.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus

Another species restricted to the wetlands of the north, where displaying birds suggested breeding was taking place. Daily counts were low, with four on 18th, two on 19th and six on 20th. These birds, in breeding plumage, were much better marked than their European counterparts, in which many feathers from their non-breeding plumage are retained into the breeding season.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

Eight on 18th, six on 19th and at least 11on 20th. Displaying birds noted each day and birds presumably breed in the region.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Singles noted on a small pool, created by over-spill from an artesian well, at a camel station near Konshengol on 15th and 17th and probably involved the same individual. In the north, one on 20th near Astana. Considered rather later for this early breeder to be passing through with any hope of breeding this year, so likely these would be first-summer birds.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

Three on 15th on pools near Konshengol, four by a small salt lake on 18th and six on pools near Astana on 20th.

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus

One by an artesian well at Konshengol on 15th. In the north, a minimum of 15 at a salt lake near the Nura River on 18th and 11 by Lake Bashan on 20th.

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Ones and twos recorded daily between 11th and 15th.

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres

One on 18th and at least six along the shoreline of Lake Sholak on 19th.

Sanderling Calidris alba

One by a small pool at the camel station at Konshengol on 15th.

Little Stint Calidris minuta

A minimum of 150 at a small salt lake near the Nura River on 18th, 40+ at Lake Sholak on 19th and six at Lake Bashan on 20th.

Temminck?s Stint Calidris temminckii

Two on a roadside pool between Almaty and Konshengol on 15th. Eight by an artesian well at Konshengol later the same day, followed by two in the same area on 16th and 17th. Four on a small salt lake near the Nura River on 18th.

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

At least eight feeding along the shore of a small salt lake near the Nura River on 18th and ten by Lake Sholak on 19th.

Dunlin Calidris alpina

A minimum of 45 at a small salt lake near the Nura River on 18th, followed by 12 at Lake Sholak on 19th.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax

Uncountable thousands of birds were present throughout the Astana region wherever suitable wetlands occurred. Between 18th and 20th, we must have seen in excess of 10,000 birds, all of which were in breeding plumage and some starting to display. This region must represent one of the most important staging areas for birds heading towards their breeding areas on the tundra of northern Siberia. Males greatly outnumbered females, which is the opposite of the sex bias in Africa, where females outnumber males by approximately 7:1. A truly memorable spectacle.

Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus

Only found in the Astana region where we recorded a minimum of 250 on a small salt lake near the Nura River on 18th and 40+ on Lake Sholak the following day.

Common Gull Larus canus

One by the roadside on 18th and 15+ at the gull colony at Zhumay village on 19th.

Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans

Strong winds at Lake Sorbulak, near Almaty, prevented us getting to grips with the breeding birds at this site on 15th. Of the six birds seen well here, all showed the characters associated with the nominate form L. c. cachinnans, often referred to as Caspian Gull. In the Astana region, a minimum of 40 birds noted on both 18th and 20th, while on 19th, we visited a large breeding colony near Zhumay village, where a minimum of 400 birds were present, and several had recently hatched chicks. The birds in the Astana region differed significantly from those near Almaty, being slightly smaller with a smaller, quite delicate structure. They were also distinctly darker on the mantle. There was some variation in bill tip pattern of the adults, with the majority showing a rich yellow bill and a red spot at the gonys, while others had a dark bill band and a paler tip to the upper mandible. These birds were of the form L. (c.) barabensis, often referred to as Steppe Gull and which may be a race of the tundra breeding Heuglin?s Gull L. heuglini.

Great Black-headed Gull Larus ichthyaetus

Small numbers recorded on several lakes in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th. The highlight of this day was, however, the visit we made to the breeding site on the lake by Zhumay village. Here, a minimum of 250 adults in breeding plumage was observed on their breeding island, and several had recently hatched chicks.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

Two on the lake by Bartogoy camp on 14th, followed by two in roadside fields en-route to Almaty later the same day. At least 10 from the dam at lake at Sorbulak, but the strong wind made it impossible to search the rest of the lake. A minimum of 150 birds at a breeding colony on a roadside lake near Topar on 16th. In the north, estimates of 50 on 18th, 200+ on 19th and 250+ on 20th.

Slender-billed Gull Larus genei

A single bird, followed by a group of ten which landed on a small lake while we were taking lunch on 19th. Later the same day, eight were loafing along the shore of a small roadside lake near Zhumay with Little and Black-headed Gulls.

Little Gull Larus minutus

Nine adults in breeding plumage resting on the shoreline of a small lake near Zhumay village on 19th and one in flight over Bashan Lake on 20th.

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica

One in flight over pools at Topar on 16th.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

A minimum of 35 birds roosting on the shore of Lake Shalkar in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th.

Common Tern Sterna hirundo

One flew over the Bartogoy camp on 13th and at least 12 noted over the lakes near Topar on 16th. More numerous in the Astana region, with one on 18th, 40+ on 19th and 20+ on 20th. Although most birds showed characters associated with the nominate form, small numbers displayed an entirely dark bill and a delicate grey wash to the underparts and closely resembled the northeast Asian breeding form S. h. longipennis. As this race is not known to breed closer to Kazakhstan than the Amur river basin in the Russian Far East, their occurrence as breeding birds in Kazakhstan seems extremely unlikely. It seems probable that these birds must have been exceptionally dark individuals of the Central Asian breeding form S. h. minussensis which breeds in the Altai and throughout Mongolia. This form is quite variable, with some resembling nominate birds and others approaching S. h. longipennis, but most usually retain some red colouration at the base of the lower mandible.

Little Tern Sterna albifrons

One at Lake Shalkar on 18th was the only record.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

A minimum of 150 birds on lakes to the southwest of Astana on 18th. In the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th, several thousand birds were seen, including hundreds feeding low over fields by Lake Shalkar, making a memorable spectacle. A further 350+ were seen on pools near Astana on 20th.

Black Tern Chlidonias niger

Much scarcer than White-winged Black Tern and the only records in the south concerned eight birds over pools near Topar on 16th. More numerous in the north with 20+ on 18th, nine on 19th and two on 20th, although some may have been overlooked amongst the huge numbers of White-winged Black Terns.

Pallas's Sandgrouse Syrrhaptes paradoxus

Two birds seen in flight over the artesian well near Nurly on 14th.

Black-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles orientalis

Three at the artesian well near Nurly on 14th. Small numbers regularly noted in the desert near the Konshengol camp between 15th and 17th, with the artesian wells proving to be particularly popular. At one well, a count of 80+ was made when we made a deliberate effort to watch the comings and goings at the favoured, mid-morning, drinking time.

Rock Dove Columba livia

Feral versions were noted daily, but no obvious wild Rock Doves seen.

Stock Dove Columba oenas

One watched on roadside wires between Topar and Zhelturanga on 16th.

Yellow-eyed Stock Dove Columba eversmanni

At least 12 birds seen well in the Turanga forest near Zhelturanga on 16th.

Wood Pigeon Columba palumbus

Six birds noted between Almaty and the Kokpek Pass on 12th and similar numbers in the same area during the return journey on 14th. One near Konshengol on 15th was presumably a migrant. In the north, two near Volgodonovka on 20th was the only record.

European Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur

One at Konshengol on 15th and two by the roadside near Topar on 16th were the only records. On the first date, one was watched feeding alongside an Oriental Turtle Dove.

Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis

Widespread in small numbers, with six in the spruce forest near the Alpine Rose hotel on 10th, followed by two there on 12th. A common migrant in the desert at Konshengol, with 11+ on 15th, six on 16th and eight on 17th. In addition, at least 15 in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th. The bright plumage and white tips to outer rectrices showed these birds to be of the race S. o. meena.

Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Occasionally seen in roadside villages, but not numerous, with two noted on 12th, and singles on 14th and 15th being the only records.

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis

One seen by Victoria from the bus as we drove through in a small village to the west of Almaty on 15th.

Common Cuckoo Cuculus canorus

One or two birds heard or seen daily throughout. Peak count was 16+ on overhead wires between Almaty and Kokpek Pass on 12th.

Eurasian Scops Owl Otus scops

One heard at the arboretum to the east of Almaty on 12th.

Long-eared Owl Asio otus

While refuelling our bus at Konshengol on 17th, one flew in low, narrowly missing a couple of the group and landed in a small group of trees, giving outstanding views. To the southwest of Astana, a pair nesting in a small orchard on the grasslands on 18th gave good views in flight before quickly returning to their nest.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

Regularly noted on streams and smaller rivers in the mountains to the south of Almaty, with at least six on 10th, one on 11th and two on 12th. Migrants also seen regularly at the artesian wells in the desert close to the Konshengol camp, with at least eight birds present on 15th and 16th and seven the following day.

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris

Up to four daily, including displaying and song-flighting birds, near the Bartogoy camp between 12th and 14th. Elsewhere, one in the Kurgaldzlinskiy Reserve on 19th was the only record.

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis

Several singing in the forest below the Observatory on 11th and 12th. Birds breeding in the Tien Shan are of the form A. t. haringtoni.

Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta

Common above the Observatory in the Tien Shan mountains on 11th, with 50+ noted between the Observatory and the Cosmic Ray Station 600 metres higher, despite this area being covered in deep snow. In contrast, just one the following day at lower elevation near the Observatory. These exceptionally pale, delicately coloured birds were in breeding plumage, indulging in song flights and were presumably of the form A. s. blakistoni which breeds in the Tien Shan. By way of contrast, two birds at an artesian well in the desert near our camp at Konshengol on 16th were considerably darker but still retained non-breeding plumage, despite the late date. It is uncertain which form these birds belonged to, but they appeared considerably darker on the upperparts than birds of the nominate form wintering in western Europe.

Goldcrest Regulus regulus

Heard in the forests below the Observatory on 11th.

White-throated Dipper Cinclus cinclus

One on a mountain stream on the lower slopes of the Tien Shan on 10th showed an entirely white belly, a feature associated with the form C. c. leucogaster.

Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasi

One on a fast-flowing mountain stream below the Alpine Rose on 12th.

Northern Wren Troglodytes troglodytes

Several birds heard daily in the mountains between 10th and 12th and one seen briefly on 11th. Song closely resembled that of European birds. Birds inhabiting the Tien Shan mountains belong with the form T. t. tianschanicus.

Altai (Himalayan) Accentor Prunella himalayana

Never an easy bird to find, so the three birds that some saw on the climb to the Cosmic Ray Station on 11th was thought a real bonus. During the descent, a brief roadside stop produced one more bird that everyone saw well. Prefers stony slopes at the higher elevations, well beyond the tree line.

Brown Accentor Prunella fulvescens

Fairly common above the Observatory with eight birds, either singles or in pairs, noted from the roadside right to up the Cosmic Ray Station. Birds in these region belong to the nominate form.

Black-throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis

Occurs at lower elevations than the previous two species, being found between the Alpine Rose Hotel and the Observatory, with four on 10th and singles on 11th and 12th. These birds were of the form P. a. huttoni which is darker and more heavily streaked than the nominate form of the Urals.

Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus

Several seen and heard near streams and waterfalls in the foothills of the Tien Shan on the drive to and from the mountains on 10th and 12th. This primarily Oriental-breeding thrush extends into the Palearctic only here in southernmost Kazakhstan and neighbouring states. Birds breeding here will be of the form M. c. turcestanicus.

Blackbird Turdus merula

Common in the Panfilov Guards Park in Almaty where up to ten birds seen during brief visits on 10th and 15th. Others seen or heard in the mountains above Almaty, at the Arboretum on 12th and in Astana on 18th. Although these birds belong to the form T. m. intermedius, they closely resemble European breeding birds and the song is not recognisably different from British birds.

Dark (Black)-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis

Single males, presumably migrants, were seen in Konshengol and in trees by the nearby camel station on 15th. Both were of the black-throated form T. r. atrogularis.

Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus

Confined to the forested mountains of the Tien Shan with four seen on 10th, one on 11th and two on 12th, with other birds heard. Breeding birds in the Tien Shan belong with the race T. v. bonapartei. As with Blackbird, the song of this form does not differ significantly from that of the populations breeding in western Europe.

Cetti's Warbler Cettia cetti

Two seen, one of them extremely well, as it responded to our tape, giving close, prolonged views. Many also heard in the wetlands near Topar on 16th. In the north, at least eight singing males noted in damp scrub near Volgodonovka, some 30 km to the southeast of Astana, on 20th. The lack of rich, rufous tones to the upperparts, and conspicuous white undertail-coverts placed these birds with the migratory form C. c. albiventris.

Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia

The characteristic reeling song was only heard in the Astana region where, presumably, these birds breed. Views of one seen briefly from a moving bus by the roadside on 18th was somewhat unsatisfactory, but two in damp grassland and bushes near Volgodonovka on 20th gave prolonged views as they responded well to our tape. Although these birds must be of the eastern breeding form L. n. straminea, they did not appear particularly paler or greyer than European birds of the nominate form. They did, however, lack all traces of spots or streaks on the upper throat or along the flanks, features that are usually apparent on European birds.

Savi?s Warbler Locustella luscinioides

Surprisingly, several males were giving their reeling song during the heat of the afternoon at Zhalanash Lake on 20th. These birds were of the form L. l. fusca which breeds in Central Asia. The song sounded identical to that of European birds and playback of European recorded song soon elicited a response. The upperparts of these birds was paler, greyish-brown, and lacking the warmer rufous tones of European birds of the nominate form, while the underparts were cleaner and whiter.

Eurasian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus

One at the camel station at Konshengol on 16th and three at Zhalanash Lake on 20th. These birds were of the Asian race, A. s. fuscus, which lacks the rufous tones to the upperparts which the nominate form in Europe displays.

Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum

A widespread migrant with several singing birds in Panfilov Guards Park opposite the Otrar Hotel in Almaty on 10th and 15th. Migrants noted wherever suitable areas of bushes were available, although the camel station near the camp at Konshengol held the largest concentration with at least eight on 15th and five there on 17th. In the north, six in a small orchard to the southwest of Astana on 18th and a couple near Malinovka village on 20th.

Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola

One by the camel station near Konshengol on 16th was the only record in the south. Large numbers in the reedbeds of the north, with at least ten near Astana on 18th and thirty or more at Volgodonovka and Zhalanash Lake on 20th.

Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus

A migrant in bushes near Konshengol on 15th was the only record in the south. Not as numerous as expected in the north, with just two birds seen in reedbeds near Malinovka village on 20th and a singing male heard on 18th. These pale, washed out birds were of the race A. a. zarudnyi.

Booted Warbler Hippolais caligata

Not seen in the south. In the small orchard at to the southwest of Astana, at least 25 birds, presumably all migrants, were present on 18th. Several territorial males in song near Volgodonovka, to the southwest of Astana, on 20th.

Sykes's Warbler Hippolais rama

Two migrants at the farm at Konshengol on 14th, followed by a singing male at Zhelturanga on 16th that showed well for the entire group. The following day, two at the camel station near our camp at Konshengol were presumably migrants.

Severtsov's (White-browed) Tit Warbler Leptopoecile sophiae

This gem of a bird can, at times, be difficult to find in the Tien Shan but fortunately, this was not the case this year. In one afternoon we managed to track down no less than five birds including a pair and three singles. Birds we saw were of the nominate form, in which the intensity of the plumage tones is richer and deeper than other races that breed to the east.

Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita

Much scarcer than the previous two species and often quite difficult to obtain good views of, but a singing male in the Panfilov Guards Park on 10th and 15th brought it home to us just how distinctive the song of these eastern breeders really is. Other birds, invariably singles, were occasionally seen, with Konshengol being the best site to obtain good views. The lack of yellow and green tones in the plumage, combined with the distinctive song confirmed these birds as being of the race P. c. tristis.

Hume's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus humei

A common and widespread migrant and breeding bird. Migrants seen in Panfilov Guards Park in Astana on 10th and 15th. In the forested hills between the Alpine Rose hotel and the Observatory, many were singing from the tops of the higher spruce trees but proved almost impossible to see well. We obtained our best views around the farms and camel stations at Konshengol on 15th and 17th, where up to 15 birds were avidly feeding, often in the open on fences or even feeding on the ground. Not recorded in the north.

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides

Another widespread migrant. Singing birds, presumably migrants, were present in Panfilov Guards Park on 10th and 15th and occasional birds seen in the mountains. As with Hume?s Leaf Warbler, most numerous and easily seen in bushes surrounding camel stations at or near Konshengol, where up to eight birds were seen on 15th and 17th, often allowing quite outstanding views as they fed from fences and low bushes, seemingly quite unconcerned by our presence. Two in the small orchard to the southwest of Astana on 18th was the only record in the north. The birds breeding in Kazakhstan are of the race P. t. viridanus, which extends west to breed in northern Europe.

Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis

Three in the desert near our camp at Konshengol on 16th were the only records in the south. Near Astana, a minimum of six in an orchard on 18th and two near Volgodonovka on 20th. These eastern birds would presumably be of the form S. c. icterops which differ from European birds in being greyer above and whiter below than the nominate form and show less conspicuous and paler fringes to the edges of the greater coverts, secondaries and tertials. In this respect they were somewhat reminiscent in appearance of Lesser Whitethroat and if seen briefly, could be confused.

Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca

Birds showing the characters of the Siberian breeding form S. c. blythi were noted above the Alpine Rose hotel on 11th and daily near the Konshengol camp with an estimated maximum of 18 birds at the camel station on 17th. Even more numerous in the orchard to the southwest of Astana, with 30+ there on 18th and occasional sightings elsewhere on subsequent days. In addition, at least four birds of the race S. c. halimodendri in scrub in at Zhelturanga in the Ili River delta on 16th. At least one pair was noted nest building here in a clump of dead tumbleweed. These birds differed from S. c. blythi in being plainer, more uniform sandy-brown in colour and lacking the contrastingly darker ear-coverts, while the song lacked the characteristic rattle of European birds of the nominate form.

Asian Desert Warbler Sylvia nana

Single birds near the camp at Konshengol in the evening of 16th and again the following morning.

Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria

One in roadside Russian Olives some 120 km to the east of Almaty on 12th and one in the same area again on 14th. Two at Konshengol on 15th and three at the nearby camel station on 17th. Finally, two in the orchard to the southwest of Astana on 18th.

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata

Only recorded from the Konshengol area where migrants frequented the trees and bushes that surround the isolated camel stations and farms. Estimates of this conspicuous species included eight on 15th and 16th, and 14 on 17th.

Thrush Nightingale Luscinia luscinia

At least one bird in the orchard to the southwest of Astana on 18th. This individual remained in view for several minutes allowing prolonged scope views. Although Thrush Nightingale is a monotypic species, the underparts of this individual appeared noticeably darker and greyer than those of Thrush Nightingale that breed in northern Europe at the western limit of their range. A similar phenomenon has been noted at Ngulia, Kenya, where large numbers of Thrush Nightingales are trapped for ringing in late autumn, with some appearing much darker and greyer below than others (D.J. Pearson, pers. comm.).

Common Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos

A common and widespread breeding bird, occurring wherever small patches of scrub and bushes occur throughout the lowlands, in both agricultural land and in small areas of trees and bushes in the desert. Many more heard than were seen. Birds seen and heard daily between 12th and 17th, with one seen well and at least eight others heard near the arboretum to the east of Almaty on 12th. The Turanga forest at Zhelturanga and areas of trees and scrub near Topar held at least ten singing males on 16th, while four by the camel station on 17th had very little cover to hide in. In the north, at least three in the orchard to the southwest of Astana on 18th and two heard in scrub near Volgodonovka on 20th. All birds were of the large, pale form L. m. hafizi, which is less retiring and easier to see than its European counterpart and regularly feeds on the ground in the open. Contrary to reports from other observers, the song of this form differs significantly from that of the nominate race in Europe.

Himalayan (White-tailed) Rubythroat Luscinia pectoralis

Two singing males in the Marble Valley above the Observatory on 12th. These birds were either of the nominate form or the very similar L. p. ballioni, both of which lack the white moustachial stripe that characterises the Tibetan breeding form L. p. tschebaiewi.

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica

A common breeding bird in the north, with eight on 18th and at least ten seen at various locations on 20th including Volgodonovka and Zhalanash Lake, near Astana. Birds preferred reedbeds and areas of dense scrub adjacent to wetlands. All males exhibited a conspicuous red spot in the centre of the blue throat and, on range, these should be of the form L. s. pallidogularis, which is said to be paler than the nominate form, although this was not apparent during field observations.

Rufous Bush Robin Cercotrichas galactotes

A migrant at the camel station near our camp at Konshengol on 17th showed extremely well for prolonged periods, often approaching too close to photograph. The pale, sandy-grey upperparts identified it as being of the Central Asian breeding form C. g. familiaris, which is both paler and greyer above than birds of the form C. g. syriacus breeding in Turkey.

Eversmann's Redstart Phoenicurus erythronotus

Three males and a females in scrub and forest above the Alpine Rose hotel on 10th, followed by a pair and a male near the Observatory the following day.

Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus caeruleocephalus

At least five males and two females in scrub and forest above the Alpine Rose hotel on 10th.

Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus

A female in roadside forest above the Alpine Rose hotel on 10th.

Güldenstädt's Redstart Phoenicurus erythrogaster

A pair displaying at the Cosmic Ray Station on 11th. This species only breeds at the higher elevations and, at 3,300 metres, the road does not get any higher than this.

Whinchat Saxicola rubetra

A male in the orchard to the southwest of Astana on 18th.

Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maurus

Scarce in the south with just three records, all presumably migrants. A female above the Alpine Rose hotel on 10th, a male in low scrub by the Bartogoy camp on 13th and another male near Topar on 16th. More numerous in the north with three on 18th, 20+ on 19th and 12+ on 20th. Males exhibited much individual variation, some with an extensive orange wash across the entire breast and belly while, on others, this was restricted to an orange spot in the centre of the breast.

Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe

Single males at Big Almaty Lake on 10th and above the Observatory the following day. More numerous in the north with two on 18th, 40+ on 19th and three on 20th.

Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka

A pair near the camp at Bartogoy on 13th and four in hills to the east as we drove towards the upper Charyn River later the same day. Two in the Kokpek Pass on 14th. Common at Tamgaly Tas on 17th where we estimated eight birds present in the limited area we covered, including a male of the white-throated morph vittata. Restricted to rocky hills.

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti

Surprisingly, the only record was that of a male at Zhelturanga on 16th.

Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina

Abundant on the grassland steppes and deserts where it was, by far, the most numerous species. Recorded daily between 12th and 17th, with estimates exceeding 100 individuals on most days, and amounting to several hundred birds on 13th. Many pairs already had recently fledged, but still flightless, chicks.

Bearded Tit Panurus biarmicus

Two groups of three birds at Zhalanash Lake, near Astana, on 20th. These birds were surprisingly paler than birds we regularly see in Europe and will be of the form P. b. russicus.

Songar Tit Parus songarus

A pair attending a nest hole in a roadside telegraph post above the Alpine Rose hotel on 11th, and heard in the same place the following day. Apparently the hole was formerly used by a Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus.

Coal Tit Parus ater

Regularly heard and up to four birds seen daily between 10th and 12th in the spruce forest above the Alpine Rose hotel. Birds here believed to be of the race P. a. rufipectus.

Great Tit Parus major

Common in the Panfilov Guards Park in Almaty. Rather scarce elsewhere, apart from the farmland to the east of Almaty, in particular the woodland surrounding the arboretum where some 15 birds were present on 12th. Also heard near the hotel in Astana.

Turkestan Tit Parus bokharensis

Common in the Turanga forest near Zhelturanga, where an estimated 15 birds were seen.

Azure Tit Parus cyanus

One at the arboretum to the east of Almaty on 12th, one in the woodlands near Topar on 16th and two at Volgodonovka, to the southeast of Astana on 20th. Birds near Topar would be of the form P. c. koktalensis which is restricted to the lower Ili River valley and Lake Balkhash and has a distinctly larger bill than the other races, presumably as an adaptation to feeding in willow beds and Phragmites. The other birds we saw were presumably of the form P. c. tianschanicus, which ranges widely throughout this region of Central Asia.

Eastern Rock Nuthatch Sitta tephronota

A female feeding chicks in a nest at Tamgaly Tas on 17th. If breeding is successful, the same nest is often used for many years in succession, but birds will build a replacement nest if the original is damaged by a predator, rather than attempt to repair it. Birds breeding in Kazakhstan are of the nominate form.

Eurasian Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus

A pair building a nest in a Phragmites reedbed near Topar on 16th. These highly distinctive birds displayed a rich, uniform chocolate-brown colour to the entire fore-crown, crown, nape and mantle, while the mask was only slightly darker and barely contrasted with the crown. The chin and throat was white and sharply demarcated from the ear-coverts. Although initially thought to be the Black-headed Penduline Tit R. macronyx, subsequent research established that this combination of characters corresponds with Eurasian Penduline Tit of the form R. p. caspius. Although this form is quite variable, it seems that we saw the most extreme form, which bears little resemblance to Eurasian Penduline Tits in Europe. Interestingly, however, R. p. caspius does not, apparently, occur at Lake Balkhash and breeding birds here should actually be Black-headed Penduline Tits. A subject worthy of further research.

White-crowned Penduline Tit Remiz coronatus

Two pairs attending nests in roadside Russian Olives to the east of Almaty on 12th. One nest was suspended from a low bush over a channel of water, while the second was approximately eight metres above the ground and well away from the nearest water. Both nests were still under construction and we enjoyed prolonged views of both birds at the nest, as they incorporated new material into the construction and shaped the structure. In contrast to the next species, White-crowned Penduline Tit does not utilise wetlands during the breeding season.

Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus

Heard in the Panfilov Guards Park on 10th. At least four at the arboretum to the east of Almaty on 12th, a pair in the same area again on 14th, a male at the farm near the Konshengol camp on 15th and one heard in the orchard near Astana on 18th. The birds we saw corresponded to the race O. o. kundoo, in which the black loral line extends a short way behind the eye and the intensity of the yellow pigment in the plumage is slightly richer than that of the nominate form. Females also differ in being yellower both above and below and exhibit reduced streaking on the underparts.

Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio

A male at the farm near Konshengol on 15th, a male and female near Topar on 16th, a male near Konshengol on 17th, and a male and female in the orchard to the southwest of Astana on 18th. All birds were assumed to be migrants.

Isabelline Shrike Lanius isabellinus

Recorded daily between 12th and 17th, with up to 20 birds seen daily. Birds showing the characters of the form L. i. phoenicuroides greatly outnumbered all other races, with one on 12th, seven on 13th, two on 14th, two on 15th, 20+ on 16th and eight on 17th. Birds showing the characters of the nominate form included two in the Kokpek Valley on 12th, followed by singles near the farm at Konshengol on 15th and in the desert near the Konshengol camp on 16th. In addition we saw a couple of extremely well marked individuals that resembled L. i. phoenicuroides, with conspicuous white supercilium but lacking the chestnut tones to the crown and mantle. It is thought these birds could be of the form P. i. karaleni, if such a taxon really exists. Fascinatingly variable.

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach

One in roadside trees to the east of Almaty on 12th. This bird would have been of the migratory form L. s. erythronotus.

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis

Two birds in the desert between Konshengol camp and Topar on 16th. Both showed the characters associated with the migratory form L. m. pallidirostris, which is sometimes treated as a distinct species, Steppe Shrike L. pallidirostris.

Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor

At least 15 on overhead wires to the east of Almaty on 12th, but just two noted along the same road during the return journey on 14th. Numerous to the west of Almaty with 11+ on 15th, 15+ on 16th and 10+ on 17th. Many, if not all, of these birds in the desert would have been migrants.

Common Magpie Pica pica

Common and recorded daily throughout Kazakhstan from the mountains and deserts of the south to the steppes of the north. The birds we encountered in the south were of the race P. p. bactriana, characterised by the large amount of white in the primaries (this being particularly noticeable in flight) and increased green iridescence on the closed wing when compared with European birds. The birds at Astana appeared similar but slightly larger than those in the south and the central rectrices of these birds also seemed longer, giving the tail a distinctive wedge -shape when fanned. It is possible these birds were of the race P. p. hemileucoptera.

Eurasian Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes

Two in spruce forest above the Alpine Rose hotel on 10th and heard there on 11th and 12th. Birds inhabiting the Tien Shan are of the form N. c. rothschildi, characterised by their darker plumage and larger size.

Red-billed Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax

At least four around the Cosmic Ray Station above the Observatory on 11th and a pair nesting in a small mausoleum in a cemetery near the upper Charyn River gorge on 13th.

Yellow-billed (Alpine) Chough Pyrrhocorax graculus

A pair at the Cosmic Ray Station above the Observatory on 11th.

Western (Eurasian) Jackdaw Corvus monedula

A common roadside bird seen daily between 12th and 20th, with 400+ noted on 17th between the Konshengol camp and Almaty, mostly by the roadside as we approached Almaty. All birds exhibited a conspicuously pale, silvery-grey nape and large silvery-white spot on each side of the neck, features associated with the race C. m. soemmerringii.

Rook Corvus frugilegus

Another common roadside species, seen daily between12th and 20th and in similar numbers to Jackdaw. Although the birds we encountered were of the nominate form, which occurs in Europe, the extent of bare skin on the forehead above the bill base appeared greater. Although a colonial breeder, it apparently does not use the same colonies each year, so we saw several deserted rookeries.

Carrion Crow Corvus corone

Widespread and recorded daily throughout the south, but absent in the Astana area. Particularly numerous in the foothills of the Tien Shan with some 40 birds seen on 10th and 12th during the drive between Almaty and the hotel. All birds were of the eastern form C. c. orientalis, which some authorities now treat as a distinct species, Oriental Crow C. orientalis.

Hooded Crow Corvus cornix

One by the camel station near Konshengol on 15th and two there on 17th, were presumably late migrants. Common in the north, with up to 20 recorded daily between 18th and 20th. These differed from Hooded Crows in Europe in being paler and less ashy-grey, with the pale areas exhibiting a faint pinkish flush. These birds were of the form C. c. sharpii.

Brown-necked Raven Corvus ruficollis

A fortunate encounter with two birds at the artesian well near our camp at Konshengol on 15th gave us time to get scope views of a species that is often difficult to see well on the ground, allowing the subtle brown wash on the neck to be fully savoured.

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

A recent colonist, being first recorded in Kazakhstan in 1964. Now a common and widespread bird, recorded almost daily throughout the south, ranging from four at the Observatory in the Tien Shan, to several hundred by the roadside in agricultural land near Almaty. Still scarce in the north with just four near Astana on 18th.

Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus

Absent from the Tien Shan and the Astana area and only 20+ recorded to the east of Almaty on 12th. Elsewhere though, very common in the south with several hundred recorded daily between 14th and 17th.

Common Starling Sturnus vulgaris

Absent from the Tien Shan and desert regions near Konshengol, but recorded widely elsewhere, being most numerous in the Astana region, although the maximum count here was just 60+ on 20th.

Saxaul Sparrow Passer ammodendri

A pair building a nest in a mausoleum in a cemetery near Zhelturanga on 15th and another pair in desert scrub near Topar later the same day. The birds we saw were of the nominate form.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Birds of the nominate form are resident about the cities, towns and villages of Kazakhstan, and lead a life commensally with man. Birds of this form were seen in Almaty on 10th and 15th