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Trip Report

Rhodope Mountains & Black Sea Coast

Wed 19th - Fri 28th May 2004

Leaders: Steve Madge & Nikolay Dilchev

Arriving on schedule at Sofia we were soon on our way to Pamporovo, our base for the first 2 nights, which allowed us a full first day in the fascinating Rhodope Mountains exploring the beautiful Trigrad Gorge where Wallcreepers and Nutcracker put on a fine showing - a great start to any tour. The fir-clad mountains gradually thinned out and became lower as we moved eastwards to Krumovgrad . These first few days brought us a wealth of southern specials which were more akin to over the border in Turkey and Greece - giving us a whole series of Bulgaria’s rarest breeding birds including Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Western Rock Nuthatch, Masked Shrike, Eastern Black-eared Wheatear, Eastern Orphean, Eastern Olivaceous and Olive-tree Warblers, Pallid Swift and Chukar. Moving northwards we visited the forests, lakes and marshes bordering the Black Sea town of Burgas, where highlights included Pygmy Cormorant, Dalmatian and White Pelicans and Semi-collared Flycatcher. Continuing our journey to the north along the Black Sea coast we came to the fascinating Durankulak region on the borders of Romania, here Red-footed Falcons and Hobbys hawked while we ‘scoped Savi’s, Great Reed and Paddyfield Warblers all singing in a row! Cape Kaliakra seemed like an alternative Lands End, where the influence from the “other side” of the Black Sea was felt, with birds like Ruddy Shelduck, Black-headed Bunting, Pied Wheatear and parties of invading Rose-coloured Starlings which roamed between the steppe bushes. After leaving a total of 3 daytime Eagle Owls we turned our backs on the limestone cliffs of the Black Sea and headed inland across the rolling Dobruja to follow the barbed wire fences and look-out towers along the Romanian border into the town of Silistra. By the mighty Danube we visited the wonderful Lake Srebarna, where the bird “find” of the tour was a singing Common Rosefinch at our delightful little hotel at Veteren. We finished the tour in the picturesque central Balkan mountains at Etara. We had driven 2300kms around Bulgaria, clocking up a remarkable 206 species (6 were heard-only), including 19 raptors and 19 warbler species, these impressive figures give an indication of the wealth of the county’s avifauna. Bulgaria really is one of Europe’s last “wild” places for the western traveller to investigate and we feel privileged to have been able to explore it before the crowds arrive ! And of course there was the wine !!

Day 1. Wed 19 May. Morning British Airways flight from London Heathrow to Sofia, arriving 40 mins late at 14.40 hrs local time. We were through passport control and customs in no-time and the foreign exchange system was so quick that some suspected that it was a black market deal. We were soon on the way to the fir forests of the ski-resort of Pamporovo in the western Rhodope Mountains, arriving at 20.00hrs (34 sp).

Day 2. Thurs 20 May. Most of the day in the dramatic Trigrad Gorge on the Greek border. The fabulous scenery was further enhanced by the superb views of several Wallcreepers, plus Dippers, Red-rumped Swallows and Crag Martins. After lunch we explored pine-clad hills above Trigrad village (Serins) where we eventually had superb views of Nutcracker and Grey-headed Woodpecker. Overnight Pamporovo. (51 sp).

Day 3. Fri 21 May. Out at 06.30 for a pre-breakfast walk: Pallid Swifts, Black Redstarts, Firecrest and Crested Tit. After breakfast we drove the winding road through the Rhodope mountains to Krumovgrad, pausing en route for Black Storks and passage Honey Buzzards. The latter part of the day was spent by the Krumovitza River: Spanish Sparrow in stork nests, Black-headed Bunting, Eastern Black-eared Wheatear, Black Storks on nests, Eastern Olivaceous Warblers, Western Rock Nuthatch, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures as well as a surprise pair of Eleonora’s Falcons. Night walk in Krumovgrad town was illuminated by an obliging Scops Owl or two (80 sp).

Day 4. Sat 22 May. Breakfast at 07.00 and away by 08.00. Today we headed towards the small town of Studen Kladenetz, where in the shrubby hillsides we found Subalpine and Eastern Orphean Warblers, Lesser Grey and Woodchat Shrikes. But our goal was to visit the hillside where the ‘vulture picnic’ took place: 20 Griffon and 6 Egyptian Vultures were joined by several Ravens as an Eleonora’s Falcon cruised overhead (surely one of yesterday’s two). At midday we returned to the bus and set-off north-east towards Burgas. We picnicked under a tree in lovely open country south of Harmanli, whilst being charmed by Woodlark song. We paused at a little valley where we quickly located a pair of Olive-tree Warblers (easier heard than seen though!) and some had views of a pair of Masked Shrikes. We continued our journey towards Burgas, with the scenery dominated by rolling cereal fields, birds were surprisingly sparse but we stopped for the first (of only 2) Black Kite of the trip. On our approach to Burgas we stopped and had much better views of Masked Shrike as well as Barred and Icterine Warblers - and Penny found a superb Nightjar sitting on the ground! Our hotel at the outskirts of the city of Burgas close to both the sea and the saltpans of Lake Atanasovsko (= Atanasovo): Avocets, Black-winged Stilts and Yellow-legged Gulls. (89 sp).

Day 5. Sun 23 May. Out at 07.00 for a pre-breakfast walk to the shore, Olivaceous Warblers sang noisily all round us and we had exceptional views of a Nightingale. Paused at edge of city to view Lake Vaya: both Dalmatian and White Pelicans, Common and Little Terns. We stopped overlooking a remarkably rich Lagoon, a protected area with loads of breeding activity: Spoonbills, Night, Squacco and Purple Herons, Glossy Ibis. Continued round Lake Mandra: Penduline Tits, and over the hills, Lesser Spotted Eagle. We picnicked at the edge of the forest en route to Ropotamo, being serenaded by a Woodlark again. Heavy thunder showers rolled in for an hour or so as we drove to Ropotamo but had died away by the time of our arrival. We quickly located a male Semi-collared Flycatcher visiting a tree hole and watched him and his mate hard at work feeding their babies. Driving north along the coast we paused by sand dunes to admire the endemic yellow-flowered Bulgarian Flax. We finished the day at Burgas, spending some time in front of the impressive (but padlocked) hide by the sultanas (surely he means ‘salt pans’? Ed.).: Turnstone, Black-tailed Godwits, Little Stints, Curlew Sand[pipers, Kentish Plovers and with Avocets nesting right at the edge of the town. Another excellent day came to a close. Overnight Burgas. (100 sp)

Day 6. Mon 24 May. Out at 07.00 for a pre-breakfast walk to the shore, good views of Golden Orioles and Syrian Woodpecker but rain began as we walked to breakfast at 08.00. Away by 08.45hrs but cold wind (from north-east) and continual rain prevented any morning birding. Lunch was taken in a splendid little roadside restaurant, where despite the rain, the extensive surrounding woodland begged exploration: Middle Spotted Woodpeckers, Nuthatch, Icterine and Wood Warblers, Short-toed Treecreepers and at least one pair of Semi-collared Flycatchers. The city of Varna appeared strangely attractive in a modern sort of way, but was soon way behind us as we continued along the coast to Kavarna, making a small detour to scope an adult Eagle Owl on a cliff ledge. Overnight Kavarna. (74 sp)

Day 7. Tues 25 May. A short pre-breakfast walk suggested that a ‘fall’ had happened, ie a Little Bittern flying over the oak trees and loads of Golden Orioles! Breakfast at 07.30 and on the road towards the Romanian border. Lake Durankulak was wonderful - we were welcomed by a spanking male Pied Wheatear, offshore were Great Crested Grebes and a couple of Red-breasted Mergansers, whilst we had wonderful views of Savi’s, Paddyfield, and Reed Warblers before being side-tracked by 2 Red-footed Falcons. We drove round the fields and ate our picnic whilst scoping the good numbers of ducks and waders present, including Ruddy Shelduck, Red-crested Pochard, Ferruginous Duck and Garganey, as well as Little Gulls and Whiskered Terns. A tremendous number of singing Calandra Larks, plus several Short-toed Larks, Tawny Pipits and Pied Wheatears about the limestone cliffs and escarpment. The entire area was full of lovely wildflowers. In the late afternoon we headed towards Cape Kaliakra and had super views of Rosy Starlings. As well as a Lesser Black-backed Gull, several Shags and a colony of Alpine Swifts the scenery was spectacular and a welcome beer in the bar at the end of the head was much appreciated too. Before returning to the hotel we made a short detour to walk through the Bolota Canyon but apart from a splendid view of a perched Hobby it was rather dull for birds. Overnight at Kavarna. (114 sp).

Day 8. Wed 26 May. A pre-breakfast walk at 06.30hrs was rather uninspiring, so we were not late for our 07.30hrs breakfast. Making a detour to the cliffs, we found the 2 fully fledged young Eagle Owls looking as big and brown as their parents. Extremely elated we headed inland via the rolling cereal fields of the Dobruja stopping, pressing onto Silistra and paused overlooking enchanting Lake Srebarna, Dalmatian and White Pelicans and Greylag Goose. We moved on towards the the west side of the lake, eating our packed lunches whilst scoping, and picking up 2 or 3 distant White-winged Black Terns, amidst a small number of Blacks in the swarms of feeding Whiskered Terns. Red-necked Grebes, Osprey, Penduline Tits and Black-headed Wagtail were oddments from a huge mixed waterbird colony that included breeding Spoonbills, Glossy Ibises, Pygmy Cormorants, and Purple, Night and Squacco Herons. We drove through town and out to the tranquil banks of the Danube, where fishermen brought ashore massive live catfish. Our nearby little hotel was a splendid surprise, we all loved it. The only drawback being the mozzies which pestered us as we ate al-fresco - and there was as sudden panic of an interruption when a Common Rosefinch (a vagrant to Bulgaria) sang 4 or 5 times from a tree top in the little courtyard before quickly moving on. (105 sp).

Day 9. Thurs 27 May. A final pre-breakfast walk gave us our last scolding, song-flighting Barred Warbler of the trip. This was to be a day of travel. It was a rather long drive back along the Danube highway. By mid morning we were admiring a breeding colony of roadside Bee-eaters just before stopping by the old fishponds of the Nova Cherna marshes. Here we were able to enjoy superb views of Little Bittern, Penduline Tits and both Short-toed and Lesser Spotted Eagles. The main highway from Ruse became crammed with massive TIR trucks - quite a contrast to the empty roads that we had experienced elsewhere in Bulgaria. We picnicked not long after we turned south into the Balkan Mountains, finally arriving at our destination, the picturesque museum-village of Etara. We enjoyed the sound of the rushing river past the hotel and, in the late afternoon, drove up the forested hillside to the Skolski Monastery (which is actually a nunnery!). The woodland and small meadows created a lovely scene for our final hour or two of birding: Middle Spotted and Black Woodpeckers were found here as well as Hawfinch, but it was not these, nor the calling Corncrake that made the day but a gorgeous shining male Large Copper butterfly. Overnight Etara. (76 sp).

Day 10. Fri 28 May. After the final breakfast of the tour, we visited the quaint museum village of Etara. Leaving Etara, we headed back to Sofia (arriving at 13.00 hrs). After a hasty lunch we bid farewell to Nikolay and boarded our British Airways flight which departed at 15.05 and arrived on time at 16. 20 at Heathrow. (44 sp).

This trip was operated in conjunction with The Travelling Naturalist.

SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES SEEN

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis (= Dabchick)

Pairs at Poda reserve (23rd) and at Lake Srebarna (26th).

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

Evident by Black Sea and Danube valley lakes.

Red-necked Grebe Podiceps grisegena

2 singles at Lake Srebarna (26th).

Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo (= Great Cormorant)

Widespread; breeding colonies on pylons in Lake Vaya and off Poda reserve. Ssp sinensis.

Shag Phalacrocorax aristotelis

10+ at Cape Kaliakra on 29th. Ssp desmarestii.

Pygmy Cormorant Phalacrocorax pygmeus

Excellent numbers, well scattered and clearly with large numbers nesting at Lake Srebarna this year.

White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus (= Rosy, Eastern or Great White Pelican)

Some 300 at Lake Vaya on 23rd, 3 on sultanas (wot, fruit-eating pelicans now?) by Hotel Park on 23rd, some 150 soared north over Durankulak on 25th; also at least 6 with the Dalmatians at Lake Srebarna on 26th.

Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus

Some 15 at Lake Vaya (Burgas) on 23rd with the Whites, plus ca 30 at Lake Srebarna on 26th

Little BitternIxobrychus minutus

Several by Black Sea lakes, and along Danube valley reedbeds; most unusual was an obvious migrant flying through oak woodland near the hotel at Kavarna on 25th.

Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax (= Black-crowned Night Heron)

Scattered birds, but numerous at Lake Srebarna and Poda reserve.

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides

Scattered birds, but numerous at Lake Srebarna and Poda reserve.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Widespread.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Frequent.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

Scattered birds by Black Sea and Danube valley lakes.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra

Several pairs in Rhodope Mountains including an occupied nest at Dolna Kula (Krumovgrad). Also odd birds elsewhere.

White Stork Ciconia ciconia

Widespread, also with many spectacular nests which contained small colonies of Spanish Sparrows in their basements.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

A small scatter, with several pairs apparently nesting at Lake Srebarna and Poda reserve.

Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia (= Eurasian or White Spoonbill)

Several parties, breeding birds about reedbeds at Poda and at Lake Srebarna.

Mute Swan Cygnus olor

Several pairs by Black Sea and Danube valley lakes; these were genuine “wild” Mute Swans.

Greylag Goose Anser anser

One in flight at Lake Srebarna on 26th.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

Bulgaria holds the bulk of Europe’s population of this ginger steppe-lake duck. A fine adult was at Lake Shabla on 25th.

Shelduck Tadorna tadorna (= Common Shelduck)

Several parties and pairs on sultanas and lakes along the Black Sea coastlands.

Gadwall Anas strepera

Widely recorded.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

Widely recorded.

Pintail Anas acuta

A lone female on sultanas of Lake Atanasovsko (= Atanasovo):on 23rd.

Garganey Anas querquedula

Several scattered pairs.

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

A lone lovely drake at Lake Shabla on 25th.

Pochard Aythya ferina (= Common Pochard)

Several on Black Sea coastal lakes and pools.

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca

A good scattering of this rare little duck, with singles flying at Lake Durankulak and 13 at Lake Shabla on 25th, 20+ at Lake Srebarna on 26th and 6 flying at Nova Cherna on 27th.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula

A lone drake at Lake Shabla on 25th and at least 4 long distance bids at Lake Srebarna on 26th.

Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator

2 brown-heads standing on the seashore by Lake Durankulak on 25th.

Honey Buzzard Pernis apivorus (= European or Western Honey-buzzard)

A scatter of sightings totalling some 10 birds, clearly still passing through.

Black Kite Milvus migrans

2 singles near Elhovo on 22nd.

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus

In the Krumovgrad area, one at Dolna Kula on 21st, with 6 at the ‘vulture picnic’ on 22nd and most interesting was an out-of-range adult over Val Tarnovo in the central Balkans on 27th.

Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus

In the Krumovgrad area, one at Dolna Kula on 21st, with 20 at the ‘vulture picnic’ on 22nd.

Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus

Fine views of one which flew low over Nova Cherna fishponds on 27th..

Marsh HarrierCircus aeruginosus (= Western Marsh Harrier)

At least 2 at Poda reserve on 23rd, a total of 8 in the Lakes Durankulak and Shabla area on 25th and at least one at Lake Srebarna on 26th.

Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus

A poor year: just singles over Yerusalemovo and near Elhovo, both on 22nd.

Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

2 soaring and skirmishing together between Pamporovo and Trigrad on 20th.

Levant Sparrowhawk Accipiter brevipes

One came close overhead as it hunted a valley on 21st.

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo

Common, seen almost daily throughout the tour. Most were typical nominate buteo but at least 2 between Silistra and Kavarna were rufous and had pale heads indicating the ssp vulpinus which has been split-off in the past as Steppe Buzzard.

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus

4 scattered singles seen during the tour.

Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina

A total of 3 soaring over wooded hills on 23rd, plus one over fish ponds on 27th.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

A dark phase displayed briefly over wooded hills on 23rd.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

One at Lake Srebarna on 26th was a nice surprise, thanks to Ian’s diligence.

Kestrel Falco tinnunculus (= Eurasian, Common or Rock Kestrel)

Widely scattered, chiefly in the hills.

Red-footed Falcon Falco vespertinus

Fewer than usual this year, with a roadside bird on the approach to Burgas on 12th, good views of 2 at north end of Lake Durankulak and 2 at Lake Shabla on 25th.

Hobby Falco subbuteo (= Eurasian or Northern Hobby)

A total of 15 scattered birds throughout the tour.

Eleonora’s Falcon Falco eleonorae

Has become an annual vagrant in Bulgaria in recent years; 2 at Dolna Kula on 21st and excellent views of one at Studen Kladenetz on 22nd were no longer the surprises that they had been in previous years.

Peregrine Falco peregrinus

One overhead at Studen Kladenetz on 22nd.

ChukarAlectoris chukar

3 feeding on slopes on 21st.

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix

Ian heard one call briefly from meadows by Skolski monastery on 27th.

Pheasant Phasianus colchicus (= Common or Ring-necked Pheasant)

Heard at Veteren and a female followed by about 10 chicks crossed a track at Nova Cherna fishponds, both on 27th.

Corncrake Crex crex

One called briefly from meadows by Skolski monastery on 27th.

MoorhenGallinula chloropus (= Common Moorhen)

Several scattered birds by Black Sea and Danube Valley lakes.

CootFulica atra (= Eurasian Coot)

Widespread by Black Sea and Danube Valley lakes.

Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus (= Eurasian Oystercatcher)

One on sultanas of Lake Atanasovsko on 23rd-24th; 3 on beach by Lake Durankulak on 25th.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

Widespread by Black Sea and Danube Valley lakes.

Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta (= Pied Avocet)

Good numbers breeding by Lake Atanasovsko and some at Lake Shabla.

Collared Pratincole Glareola pratincola

2 by Lake Mandra on 23rd and 3 flying by Lake Shabla on 25th.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

A small scatter.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula (= Greater Ringed Plover)

2 rather small birds (ssp tundrae) on sultanas of Lake Atanasovsko on 23rd.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus (= Snowy Plover)

2 at Lake Atanasovsko sultanas on 23rd, with 2 on shore at Shabla on 25th.

LapwingVanellus vanellus (= Northern Lapwing)

A small, but wide, scatter of birds.

Little Stint Calidris minuta

Several flocks in the Burgas area and at Lake Shabla, mostly in breeding plumage.

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

Several flocks in the Burgas area and at Lake Shabla, mostly in breeding plumage.

Dunlin Calidris alpina

Some 20 at Lake Atanasovsko sultanas on 23 rd.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax

At least 2 at Lake Shabla on 25th.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

24 at Lake Atanasovsko sultanas on 23 rd.

Greenshank Tringa nebularia (= Common Greenshank)

One at Lake Shabla on 25th.

Turnstone Arenaria interpres (= Ruddy Turnstone)

4 lovely breeding-plumaged birds from hide overlooking sultanas of Lake Atanasovsko on 23rd.

Mediterranean Gull Larus melanocephalus

5 at Lake Atanasovsko on 23rd; plus 2 flying at Lake Durankulak on 25th.

Little Gull Larus minutus

3 at Shabla Lake on 25th.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

Very small numbers on both Back Sea coast and the Danube valley.

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus fuscus (= Baltic Gull)

An adult flew past us at eye-level at Cape Kaliakra on 25th. This was of the very slim-winged, black-backed population, known as Baltic Gull.

Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans

Widespread on both Back Sea coast and the Danube valley. All birds seemed to be of the Western form michahellis which might be split from cachinnans (latter then known as Caspian, Pontic, Steppe or Lake Gull) in the near future.

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica

2 flew through with Black-headed Gulls at Lake Atanasovsko sultanas on 23rd.

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis

15 birds at Lake Atanasovsko sultanas, over adjacent beach of Lake Durankulak and passing at Cape Kaliakra.

Common Tern Sterna hirundo

Widespread along Black Sea lakes and rivers.

Little Tern Sterna albifrons

Up to 30 birds at Lake Atanasovsko sultanas.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus

30 at Durankulak and Shabla Lake, ca100 at Lake Srebarna and at least 5 pairs nesting at Nova Cherna fishponds.

Black Tern Chlidonias niger

4 at Lake Shabla on 25th, and about 8 with Whiskered Terns at Lake Srebarna on 26th.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

3 in breeding plumage with Whiskered Terns at Lake Srebarna on 26th.

Rock Dove Columba livia (= Rock or Feral Pigeon)

Widespread but not really abundant. A few in rugged country seemed to be pure wild birds

Woodpigeon Columba palumbus

Scattered in wooded country, especially in the hills.

Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

Common and widespread over northern Bulgaria.

Turtle Dove Streptopelia turtur

Common and widespread.

Cuckoo Cuculus canorus (= Common or European Cuckoo)

Common and widespread.

Scops OwlOtus scops (Eurasian Scops Owl)

One calling and even seen in flight between trees in mid afternoon at Dolna Kula, plus 2 seen (one quite well) and at last 3 others heard during our illuminating post-dinner walk at Krumovgrad, all on 21st.

Eagle Owl Bubo bubo

Excellent views of an adult and 2 fledged young on cliff ledges.

Little Owl Athene noctua

One on a roof-top near Krumovgrad on 22nd.

Tawny Owl Strix aluco

One hooting at night on 20th.

Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus

A superb find by Penny, who had a feeling that a piece of wood was watching her on 22nd. This bird was to become one of the star sights of the trip, well photographed and not even flushed from its presumed nest

Alpine Swift Apus melba

Small parties in the hills at Trigrad Gorge and Gabrovo region and along the coast between Albena and Cape Kaliakra.

Swift Apus apus (= Common or European Swift)

Small numbers widely recorded at Burgas and in the north; absent from mountainous regions.

Pallid Swift Apus pallidus

Small colonies noted in roof tops at Pamporovo and Studen Kladenetz in the Rhodope mountains and again at Etara; certainly seems to replace Common Swift in the hillier regions.

Kingfisher Alcedo atthis (= Common, Small Blue or River Kingfisher)

Singles at Lake Srebarna and by the Danube near Veteren on 26th.

Bee-eater Merops apiaster (= European Bee-eater)

Widespread and locally common.

Roller Coracias garrulus (= European Roller)

Scattered birds throughout the trip.

HoopoeUpupa epops (= Eurasian Hoopoe)

Scattered birds throughout the trip.

Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus (= Grey-faced Woodpecker)

Frustrating as ever but our first was one very obliging bird which attended a nest hole in forest on 20th, followed by glimpses of one on 23rd.

Green Woodpecker Picus viridis

Singles by river at Krumovgrad on 22nd, in the Bolota Canyon on 25th and 3 in the Srebarna-Veteren area next day,

Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius

We were ever so lucky for this one, at Pamporovo on 19th a female was spotted on the ground by roadside thus creating a quick stop, then followed excellent views of a male in the tree tops. There were no more until one was heard calling on 27th.

Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major

Frequent - indeed pretty common.

Syrian Woodpecker Dendrocopos syriacus

A few scattered birds in open country, gardens, orchards etc in lowlands.

Middle Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos medius

Excellent views of 5 on 24th and another on 27th..

Lesser Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos minor

Brief views of one in flight at Dolna Kula on 21st.

Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra

Some excellent views of the superb songster so especially abundant on the “limestone steppe” on 25th.

Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla

Some excellent views of about 6 scattered birds on 25th.

Crested LarkGalerida cristata

Widely scattered along roadsides

Wood LarkLullula arborea

A superb songster; frequent in the hills.

SkylarkAlauda arvensis (= Northern Skylark)

Widespread and common.

Sand Martin Riparia riparia (= Common Sand Martin)

Localised by riverine banks but quite widely recorded.

Crag Martin Hirundo rupestris

Scattered in the hills and gorges of the Pamporovo, Krumovgrad & Tarnovo regions.

Swallow Hirundo rustica (= Barn Swallow)

Widespread and abundant.

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica

Widespread in the hilly areas.

House Martin Delichon urbica (= Northern or Common House Martin)

Widespread and abundant.

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris

A small scatter, notably on the “limestone steppe” on 25th.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

Very few seen: ones and twos at Durankulak, Srebarna and by Rosica River (on 27th). All seen well were Black-headed ssp feldegg, which is sometimes split-off as a species: Black-headed Wagtail.

Grey WagtailMotacilla cinerea

Widely recorded in the Rhodope and central Balkan mountains at each end of the tour.

White Wagtail Motacilla alba (= Pied Wagtail)

Widespread in small numbers.

Dipper Cinclus cinclus (= White-bellied Dipper)

4 in the Pamporovo-Trigrad gorge area, with another 2 at Etara. Ssp aquaticus is the rufous-bellied race concerned but Balkan birds were formerly known as orientalis.

Wren Troglodytes troglodytes(= Winter Wren)

Heard and glimpsed in the Trigrad gorge area, Black Sea woodlands and Etara.

Dunnock Prunella modularis (= Hedge Accentor)

At least 3 heard, and one glimpsed, near Pamporovo on 21st.

Robin Erithacus rubecula (= European Robin)

Widely heard in wooded areas, but few seen well.

Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos (= Rufous Nightingale)

Widespread and common. One of the dominant sounds of the Bulgarian countryside.

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros

Numerous in the Trigrad gorge and Pamporovo areas, plus a pair at our Kavarna hotel.

Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus

Fine views of a male on roof top at Krumovgrad on 22nd. He obviously thought he was a Black Redstart !

Whinchat Saxicola rubetra

Singles at Studen Kladenetz on 22nd, by Lake Mandra on 23rd and at Veteren on 27th.

European Stonechat Saxicola rubicola (= Common Stonechat)

A total of 5 scattered roadside singletons. Now separated from S. torquata (African Stonechat).

Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina

A total of about 10 roadside birds on 22nd.

Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe (= Common Wheatear)

A small scatter in hilly country.

Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka

Several (total 10) along coast. Sometimes lumped within Black-eared Wheatear, with which it sometimes hybridises in Bulgaria and elsewhere.

Black-eared WheatearOenanthe hispanica

3 pairs on 21st. Now often separated from the nominate form (which could become known as Spanish Wheatear) as Eastern Black-eared Wheatear O. melanoleuca.

BlackbirdTurdus merula (= European Blackbird)

Widespread and common.

Song ThrushTurdus philomelos

Heard in woodland all along Black Sea coast and inland at Etara; several seen.

Mistle ThrushTurdus viscivorus

A scatter of singles in hilly areas.

Cetti’s WarblerCettia cetti

Frequently heard (but not even glimpsed) in reed-beds about Burgas.

River WarblerLocustella fluviatilis

One ‘chuffing’ away on 21st but was not seen.

Savi’s WarblerLocustella luscinioides

Singing birds (2+) seen well on 25th; heard more distantly on 26th and heard and glimpsed at fishponds on 27th.

Paddyfield WarblerAcrocephalus agricola

Splendid views of singing birds (8-10 in total) on 25th.

Marsh Warbler Acrocephalus palustris

One in song at Dolna Kula on 21st, another sang by our hotel in Burgas, but most numerous in hemlock thickets by Lake Durankulak, at Shabla, Lake Srebarna and at Nova Cherna.

Reed Warbler Acrocephalus scirpaceus

Several heard (and seen) in reed-beds by Black Sea and along the Danube valley.

Great Reed Warbler Acrocephalus arundinaceus

Widely recorded by Black Sea and Danube valley lakes.

Eastern Olivaceous Warbler Hippolais pallida

Common and widespread, but largely replaced by Marsh Warbler in northern Bulgaria. Recently separated from the western form opaca (of SW Europe and NW Africa).

Olive-tree Warbler Hippolais olivetorum

A pair showed reasonably well, with another 2 heard on 22nd. Another pair present in woodland at our lunch stop next day.

Icterine Warbler Hippolais icterina

One seen quite well on 22nd (until it was chased by a Masked Shrike!), at least 2 pairs on 24th and one on 25th.

Subalpine Warbler Sylvia cantillans

Odd birds singing in scrubby hills on 22nd, some lucky people managed to get reasonably good sightings.

Orphean Warbler Sylvia hortensis

Pair feeding young in scrubby oaks on 22nd, looked for all the world like outsized Lesser Whitethroats! Eastern forms now often split from those of SW Europe as Eastern Orphean Warbler S. crassirostris.

Barred Warbler Sylvia nisoria

A small scatter of 6 sightings in the Black Sea woodland edges and hills along the Danube.

Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca

A small scatter of 8 recorded, chiefly in northern Bulgaria.

Whitethroat Sylvia communis (= Greater Whitethroat)

Widespread but mostly heard.

GardenWarbler Sylvia borin

One singing strongly in the Trigrad gorge on 20th

Blackcap Sylvia atricapilla

Widespread in wooded areas.

Wood Warbler Phylloscopus sibilatrix

One singing on 24th, and good views of a migrant by Lake Shabla on 25th.

Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita (= Common Chiffchaff)

Widespread but chiefly heard only.

Goldcrest Regulus regulus

4-5 seen and others heard at Pamporovo on 20th-21st.

Firecrest Regulus ignicapillus

4-5 seen and others heard at Pamporovo on 20th-21st.

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata

Ones and twos at Goritza, by Lake Durankulak and at Lake Srebarna.

Semi-collared Flycatcher Ficedula semitorquata

We had wonderful views of a male and a female carrying food to a tree hole on 23rd and some 3 birds in woods next day.

Marsh Tit Parus palustris

Ones and twos at Etara and Skolski monastery at the end of the trip.

Willow Tit Parus montanus

One seen from the bus in willow thicket by river on 20th. Populations of central and south-east Europe might well form a distinct species, differing from those of north-west and northern Europe both in larger size, colouration and vocally, these would retain the name P. montanus.

Sombre Tit Parus lugubris

A pair seen on 21st and one carrying food on scrubby oak slopes next day, neither of which put on a very good showing for all.

Crested Tit Parus cristatus

Superb views of one near the hotel on 20th.

Coal Tit Parus ater

Common at Pamporovo and above Trigrad village.

Blue Tit Parus caeruleus

A few about Ropotamo, Goritza and at the Skolski.

Great Tit Parus major

Common and widespread.

Nuthatch Sitta europaea (= Eurasian or Wood Nuthatch)

Several scattered sightings in woodland., but only really numerous at Etara.

Western Rock Nuthatch Sitta neumayer

A pair watched entering a nest-hole and another foraging by roadside on 21st.

Wallcreeper Tichodroma muraria

Some 5 birds seen extremely well on 20th - wonderful !

Common Treecreeper Certhia familiaris

Heard and a family party seen at Pamporovo on 21st.

Short-toed Treecreeper Certhia brachydactyla

Some 5 birds seen and heard on 27th.

Penduline Tit Remiz pendulinus

Heard at various spots, with 2 seen very well on 23rd, and other excellent views (plus a nest) at Lake Srebarna on 25th and superb views again of 2 or 3 at fishponds on 27th.

Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus

Surprisingly common and widespread.

Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio

Numerous and widespread.

Lesser Grey ShrikeLanius minor

Widely recorded, from Krumovgrad onwards but chiefly in Kaliakra region.

Woodchat Shrike Lanius senator

A total of 7 singles in the southern foothills (Krumovgrad to Burgas).

Masked Shrike Lanius nubicus

Pair briefly on 22nd and splendid views of another later same day.

Jay Garrulus glandarius (= Eurasian Jay)

Widespread.

Magpie Pica pica (= Eurasian Magpie)

Widespread.

Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes (=Spotted Nutcracker)

One seen very well in forest on 20th.

Jackdaw Corvus monedula (= Western Jackdaw)

Widespread.

Rook Corvus frugilegus

Very localised in Bulgaria. Parties (including an active rookery) about Silistra on 26th, with singles near Nova Cherna on 27th and near Sofia on 28th.

Hooded Crow Corvus cornix

Common and widespread. Now separated once more from Carrion Crow C. corone.

Raven Corvus corax (= Northern Raven)

A good scatter but few along the Danube valley.

Starling Sturnus vulgaris (= European or Common Starling)

Common and widespread.

Rosy Starling Sturnus roseus (= Rosy Pastor or Rose-coloured Starling.)

4 flew east at Poda on 23rd, 3 parties - totalling some 65 birds - on 25th and party of 6 on 27th.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Common and widespread, but very few in the Rhodope hills.

Spanish SparrowPasser hispaniolensis

Locally common, and quite widespread; including nesting birds in stork nests.

Tree Sparrow Passer montanus

Widespread. but by no means common, very few in the southern hills.

Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs

Common and widespread.

Serin Serinus serinus

Several pairs about Trigrad village and about the hotels at Pamporovo; plus a bird at Etara on 28th.

Greenfinch Carduelis chloris

Widespread.

Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis

Common and widespread.

Linnet Carduelis cannabina

A thin scatter of sightings throughout.

Common Crossbill Loxia curvirostra

Party of 6 flew overhead on 21st.

Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus

Merely a vagrant to Bulgaria but, on 26th, one dropped onto a tree in the tiny courtyard of our little hotel (whilst we tackled our Pontic Shad dinner) and sang 4 or 5 times before flying away.

Bullfinch