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Trip Report

Bharatpur & Tigers with extension for Bustards & Cranes

Sat 31st January - Sat 14th February 2004

Leaders: Steve Madge & David Cottridge

Trip Diary

This year we extended our classic tour to take in three of Rajasthan’s finest national parks: Bharatpur with its open wilderness of shallow water and marshes, ranks high as one of the world’s top wetlands; one of the most famous Tiger reserves, Ranthambhor, famous because it has allowed many ordinary tourists to see this magnificent predator with relative ease; while in complete contrast, we added in the more remote Thar Desert National Park with its myriad of wintering larks and massive Indian Bustards. After two drought years it was gratifying to find the 2003 monsoon had been good and Bharatpur contained much water and masses of birds, indeed in one day we recorded 136 species on our two walking sessions - thus maintaining Bharatpur’s reputation as a bird paradise. The Tigers at Ranthambhor are doing very well; we had four sightings of two different animals on three out of five drives including two spectacular encounters with a young male which scent-marked behind our vehicle in full view and later in the day the same animal took an 8 metre leap from the roof of one of Ranthambhor’s old buildings and killed a drinking Chital. A splendid Dhole (Indian Wild Dog) was quite unexpected but was totally eclipsed by these Tiger antics. What with the wonderful Taj Mahal thrown in for good measure this tour certainly lived up to its high expectations, the 252 species recorded (230 during the main tour) included such spectacular or difficult to find species as Black Bittern, Painted, Asian Open-billed and Black-necked Storks, Sarus Crane, Sociable Lapwing, Indian Courser, Tawny, Steppe, Eastern Imperial, Lesser Fish and Indian Spotted Eagles, Moustached and Eastern Orphean Warblers, Great Thick-knee and, during the tour extension, no less than 6 Indian Bustards, Laggar Falcon, Hume’s Short-toed Lark, swirling masses of thousands of Bimaculated Larks and 2000-3000 Demoiselle Cranes.

Day 1. Sat 31 Jan. Evening British Airways flight from Heathrow overnight to Delhi.

Day 2. Sun 1 Feb. Mid-morning arrival in Delhi, where Ashok and his coach were waiting and in next to no time we were on our way south, through crawling traffic, towards Bharatpur, acclimatising ourselves to the sights, sounds (and smells) of real India. We broke the journey with a delightful stop for afternoon tea, and found our first Indian birds: Red-vented Bulbul, Indian Pond Heron, White-browed, White and "Masked" Wagtails, Pied, Common and Bank Mynas, Sarus Crane and overhead a surprising Short-toed Eagle. A short stop at a small bridge between gave us a colony of Streak-throated Swallows, Striated Babblers, Citrine Wagtail, Shikra and a good selection of waterbirds including our first Purple Swamphens. At a police checkpoint there was a technical hitch (ie not enough money had changed hands) which lengthened the day by almost an hour. It was 19.30hrs and very dark by the time we arrived at Bharatpur where we were warmly welcomed by the staff at ‘The Bagh". Overnight at the Bagh Hotel, Bharatpur. (77 sp)

Day 3. Mon 2 Feb. It was surprisingly chilly at first light, so breakfast at 7.00 was the order of the day. After breakfast we met up with our guide, Babalu and walked the trail along the embankment behind Shanti Kutir. Needless to say we didn’t get very far, as our first stop was so thronged with birds that we could hardly rest our bins: White-breasted Waterhen, Purple Swamphen, Purple Heron, Little Cormorant, Oriental Darter, Ferruginous, Spot-billed, Comb and Lesser Whistling Ducks, Pheasant-tailed and Bronze-winged Jacanas, Greylag and Bar-headed Geese, Black-necked Stork, Greater Spotted, Imperial and Lesser Fish Eagles, Hoopoe, Hume’s Leaf-Warbler and Citrine Wagtail but despite all this it took a Mallard to make Babalu become as excited as a schoolboy! Our picnic was taken on the lawn at Shanti Kutir where a Wryneck provided some distraction. We then boarded our fleet of rickshaws and headed along the main bund of the reserve. No sooner had we climbed onto the rickshaws than we were off them again for a family of Dusky Eagle Owls at their nest, while an apparent Indian Spotted Eagle drifted right over our heads. Then followed a young Bonelli's Eagle, a dark morph Booted Eagle and a Black Bittern. It was late afternoon as we pedalled back to the barrier, the eerie wailing of Golden Jackals giving a wonderful atmosphere. We saw a party of 6 trotting through the bushes and then a "Jungle Cat" was pointed out to us by the rickshawmen but an inspection of Dave’s photographs has shown that this was actually a Wild Cat. What a day! (116 sp).

Day 4. Tues 3 Feb. A day of culture today, as we set off at 0800 to pick up our cultural expert, Ram Naresh Mittal at Fatehpur Sikri. Ram’s eloquent dialogues were appreciated by us all - even those that chose to look skywards most of the time. At Fatehpur Sikri we all saw the Brown Rock Chats. We continued to Agra for more culture. First stop was Agra Fort: Blue Rock Thrush, Laughing Dove and Grey Francolin. After an excellent hotel lunch it was off to the magnificent Taj Mahal. The river behind the Taj held loads of Egyptian Vultures, but a lone patrolling Great Black-headed Gull was the prize bird from here. The gardens of the Taj also held a good selection of birds: Yellow-legged Green Pigeon, Indian Grey Hornbill, Brown-headed Barbets, Spotted Owlet and a flighty Oriental Honey-buzzard. It was dusk by the time we had finished our tourist shopping bit and well after dark by the time we reached Bharatpur. During the day we had visited no less than 4 World Heritage Sites (Agra Fort, Taj Mahal, Fatehpur Sikri and of course Bharatpur!) (59 sp)

Day 5. Wed 4 Feb After breakfast and a small detour to see a Brown Hawk Owl, we took the rickshaws to Sapra Moray and walked the eastern circuit from Sapra Moray to the Keoladeo temple. It was hot as the trail wended its way through Acacia scrub, following the park boundary wall. A couple of enormous Indian Pythons at the entrance to a porcupine burrow were appreciated. Olive-backed Pipits gave their plaintive calls as Red-breasted Flycatchers trilled from the trees, however the ‘good’ males remained elusive. A family of Black Francolins flushed away over the wall, but sadly most of us missed the Marshall’s Iora. A ‘purple patch’ not long before our stop at the temple produced an Eastern Orphean Warbler, a Clamorous Reed Warbler and a Moustached Warbler virtually all in the same waterside thicket. It was nice to sit down by the temple and devour our picnic kindly brought out to us by the staff of the ‘Bagh’. Brahminy Starlings, Spotted Owlets and Bluethroats kept us entertained at lunch. After lunch we admired a party of some 70 Common Cranes before climbing back on the rickshaws for the return run to the barrier. An Orange-headed Thrush tantalised a pair of bird photographers by hopping between their lenses as a mass of rickshaws gathered to watch the fun. We were side-tracked to the nursery where Babalu located a fine Large-tailed Nightjar for us and a Himalayan vagrant, a female Grey Bushchat put on a good showing. In the late afternoon we were treated to a slide show by the ever-grinning Bolu Khan ("birdman of Bharatpur"), which I’m sure we will never forget! Overnight at the Bagh. (135 sp)

Day 6. Thurs 5 Feb. After breakfast we returned to work the ‘dry zone’ at the far side of the national park. After the initial run with rickshaws, we walked some 3 miles through the dry scrubby grasslands coming across Baya and Black-breasted Weavers, Red Collared Dove, Rufous-tailed Larks, Bay-backed and Isabelline Shrikes and Tawny Eagle. It was very hot as we approached an open dry lake bed and found 5 Sociable Lapwings and about 12 Indian Coursers. We were all pretty hot and tired by the time we arrived for lunch at the temple; Curlews calling overhead were very nostalgic as we ate. The afternoon was spent along the main bund and later we finished the day by walking out along the bund behind Shanti Kutir. What a splendid day (again). (135 sp).

(138 sp)

Day 7. Fri 6 Feb. All too soon we were on the platform at Bharatpur Junction, waiting for the Golden Temple Mail, the express from Amritsar to Mumbai. With sad goodbyes to Bolu, Sohan Lal and Babalu we boarded the train for our two and a half hour journey to Sawai Madhopur. The second part of our remarkable holiday was about to begin and we all pondered on one thing, fuelled by negative rumours: were there any Tigers left at Ranthambhor? At 1400 hrs we were hurried off the train on arrival at Sawai Madhopur (it only stopped for 2 minutes), met up with Bardur, boarded our canter (open truck) and were whisked off to the Tiger Moon resort. By 1500 hrs we were on our way to Ranthambhor Park, being reassured by our guide Joshi by the news that there were at least 25 Tigers in the park and that we had a very good chance of a sighting. Soon after entering the park we had frustrating views of a young male in the distance. An Indian Wild Dog (Dhole) was far rarer although poor compensation for most. With mixed emotions we returned to our hotel that evening, elated that we had actually made contact but hoping for more. (75 sp).

Day 8. Sat 7 Feb. Leaving at 06.30hrs in cold darkness, we entered the park soon after dawn at 07.00. Virtually the first vehicle in and we could hardly believe our eyes, we found ourselves face-to-face with the young male Tiger again, this time we had just past it at the roadside and it calmly walked away downhill from us, hardly even glancing at us as it scent-marked a branch in the road. Stunned by this wonderful experience we drove along the tracks of the reserve: Plum-headed Parakeet, Brown-capped Woodpecker, Coppersmith Barbet, Great Tit, Jungle Bush-quail, Brown Fish Owl flushed, Brown Crake and overhead White-rumped, Red-headed and Indian (Long-billed) Vultures. Eventually we returned to the hotel for a much appreciated, late breakfast. We then had a couple of hours in which to explore the hotel grounds before lunch: Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher and a fine male Red-breasted Flycatcher, Common Iora, White-browed Fantail, Large Grey Babblers and Little Green Bee-eater. 14.30 hrs we were back on the road to the park, this time we take the central route to Bokala where a Tigress is hanging out. We see her walking by a stream in the distance, she flushes a Bonelli’s Eagle from his low perch. Heading back towards the entrance we meet a jeep which has just left the male Tiger sunning himself on the roof of a gazebo by the lake. We investigate and after having fine views are treated to the spectacle of him jumping the 8 metres or so from the roof onto a poor unsuspecting Chital drinking below. After leaving the park we park up in the fading light to await the arrival of Painted Sandgrouse at a roadside pool - 16 came in and performed well for us. (111 sp).

Day 9. Sun 8 Feb. More prepared for the early morning cold. This morning we drove to Sorwal Lake, the large reservoir behind Sawai Madhopur which was almost dry this year, although it was thick with Kentish Plovers and held a good selection of other shorebirds, notably Little and Temminck’s Stints, Spotted Redshanks, Avocets and Ruddy Shelducks plus a single River Lapwing. Wire-tailed and Streak-throated Swallows perched on bare tree tops, while a few Red-headed Buntings and Bimaculated Larks foraged in the fields as we lunched. We headed back to Tiger Moon before doing a drive back in Ranthambhor Park. We were treated to fantastic views of a male Painted Spurfowl by the entrance to the fort plus more typical fleeting views later on. Night at Tiger Moon Resort after yet another exciting day. (129 sp).

Day 10. Mon 9 Feb. Our last drive this morning, this time we took the eastern route (and so did everyone else, which resulted in a traffic jam along a gorge road). Our reward was views at last of Alexandrine Parakeets. Returning towards the exit gate, we stopped by a small stream and found an amazing number of small birds coming down to drink, including Crested and Chestnut-breasted (White-capped) Buntings, Common Rosefinches, Olive-backed Pipits and the inevitable Rufous Treepies. Small birds had been pretty thin until then, but we did manage a taster of the variety present at Ranthambhor! As this was the end of the main tour, the party divided at midday. Some people returned to Delhi on the "up" Golden Temple Express, whilst the rest of us took the train to Jodhpur, a journey of some 8 hours, arriving at 23.15hrs, to begin our extension to the Thar Desert. We were greeted at Jodhpur by Mahendra Singh who was to accompany us throughout the tour extension. Overnight at Jodhpur. (89 sp)

Day 11. Tues 10 Feb. We had to wake the staff to get breakfast this morning, consequently we didn’t leave until 07.00hrs, Koels and Spotted Owlets were calling as we left. The journey through rather barren scrubby landscapes was punctuated by the odd stop, the first at the jain temple at Osian where a female White-bellied Minivet appeared. It was close to 10.00hrs by the time we arrived for the famous crane spectacle at Khichan but what a fantastic sight, with some 3,000 Demoiselle Cranes so very close that it was difficult to take in that these were wild birds. As well as the cranes we added a nesting pair of Red-naped (Black) Ibis and Common Raven to the trip list before dragging ourselves away at midday to continue our journey. It was 15.00hrs by the time we reached the lovely hotel at Jaisalmer and enjoyed a hearty late lunch. Then it was off to the "ministry" to get our park permits sorted out, having initially obtained permission to do so from a local magistrate. Night at Jaisalmer. (62 sp)

Day 12. Wed 11 Feb. We left the hotel at 07.00hrs in 3 jeeps, Desert and Variable Wheatears were frequently encountered as we approached the police checkpoint at Sam. We arrived at Sudaseri in the heart of the Desert National Park at 08.30hrs after several short stops, involving a Laggar Falcon chasing a Long-legged Buzzard, and swirling masses of several thousand Bimaculated Larks. Parties of Short-toed Larks continually flushed from the roadside as we drove along. We explored the grasslands at Sudaseri with the aid of a camel cart where our day bags, scopes and the weary could be carried at walking pace. Graceful Prinia and Common Quail were quickly added to the list and it wasn’t long before we spotted our first huge Indian Bustard, as parties of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse flighted in to drink. Amongst other birds encountered on our walk were Desert Lesser Whitethroat, Long-billed Pipit and Eurasian Black Vulture. The circular walk brought us back in time for a picnic in a straw roofed hut, with side-tracking providing Hume’s Short-toed Lark. Later we visited a nearby dune system but added little apart from a few Asian Desert Warblers and nearer Sam we had superb views of Cream-coloured Coursers on our return journey. Night at Jaisalmer. (57 sp)

Day 13. Thurs 12 Feb. Breakfast at 0700hrs and we paid a visit to a wetland right on the edge of the city - plenty of waders and waterfowl there but only Tufted Duck and Black-headed Gull were trip additions. Moving out of the city we headed for Fossil Wood Park where we were to spend the remainder of the morning. A pair of very tame Desert Larks were very photogenic, but it was Grant’s find of a party of Trumpeter Finches that really livened up the day, quickly followed by the only Spanish Sparrow of the trip. Lunch back at the hotel in Jaisalmer, followed by an afternoon of sightseeing in the beautiful old city. Overnight Jaisalmer. (62 sp)

Day 14. Fri 13 Feb. An early breakfast followed by departure at 05.30hrs for Jodhpur. The long drive was punctuated by 2 comfort stops: Midway and Havelli (Rosy Starlings) plus over 50 Steppe Eagles and a load of vultures at a carcass dump on the outskirts of Jodhpur. We flew to Delhi and had a chance of some birding by the Centaur Hotel before dark. After an excellent farewell Indian meal, we were driven to the airport where we boarded our 03.30hrs British Airways flight, bound for Heathrow. (74 sp).

Day 15. Sat 14 Feb. Early morning arrival at Heathrow where the tour concluded.

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ANNOTATED SPECIES LIST

(total for trip: 255 species)

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis
Widespread.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
Widespread.

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger
Widespread.

Darter Anhinga melanogaster
Widely recorded. Sometimes separated into African Darter A. rufa and Oriental Darter A. melanogaster

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Widely recorded.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
Widely recorded.

Great Egret Ardea alba
Widespread.

Intermediate Egret (Yellow-billed) Egretta intermedia
Widespread.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta
Widespread.

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii
Widespread.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Widespread.

Striated Heron (Green-backed Heron) Butorides striata

More than usual - 4 singles at Bharatpur and one at Ranthambhor. Now again separated from Green Heron Butorides virescens of North America.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
ca100 at Bharatpur.

Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis
Exceptional numbers (and views) a total of 10 seen at Bharatpur.

Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala
Plenty at Bharatpur, several others at roadside pools, including one in the desert en route to Desert National Park on 11th.

Asian Open-billed Stork Anastomus oscitans
6 at Bharatpur on 2nd.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra
Distant views of 3 soaring together over Ranthambhor on 8th.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus
Ones and twos at Bharatpur.

Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus
Magnificent birds. Up to 6 at Bharatpur.

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephala
Small parties widely recorded. Sometimes lumped with White Ibis T. molucca of Australia and/or Sacred Ibis T. aethiopica of Africa.

Red-naped (Black) Ibis Pseudibis papillosa (E)
A pair and nest at a small pool at Khichan on 10th.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus
Widely recorded in small numbers.

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia
Widely recorded.

Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica
Up to 250 at Bharatpur, plus up to 75 at Ranthambhor.

Greylag Goose Anser anser
400 or so at Bharatpur.

Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus
Up to 450 at Bharatpur.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea
Widely recorded in small numbers.

Knob-billed Duck (Comb Duck) Sarkidiornis melanotos
Up to 15 at Bharatpur and 14 (in flight) at Sorwal Lake (on 8th).

Cotton Pygmy-goose (Cotton Teal) Nettapus coromandelianus
Widely recorded.

Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope
Widely recorded.

Gadwall Anas strepera
Widely recorded.

Common Teal Anas crecca
Widely recorded.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos
2 drakes at Bharatpur on 2nd were the only ones recorded.

Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha

Some 150-200 at Bharatpur. Sometimes included in Pacific Black Duck A. superciliosa. The Indian Spotbill is probably specifically distinct from the Chinese Spotbill which would then become A. zonorhyncha.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta
Widely recorded.

Garganey Anas querquedula
Some 20 at Bharatpur

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata
Widely recorded.

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina
Some 40 at Bharatpur

Common Pochard Aythya ferina
Widely recorded in small numbers.

Ferruginous Duck (White-eyed P) Aythya nyroca
Some 25 at Bharatpur

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula (E)
One at Gadisar tank on 12th and 50 on a tank at Jodhpur next day.

Oriental (Crested) Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus
A total of 5 scattered singles. Sometimes included in Honey-buzzard P. apivorus.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

Several scattered birds. Now again separated from White-tailed Kite E. leucurus of America; the bird is perhaps better named as Black-winged Kite with Black-shouldered retained for its Australian counterpart E. axillaris.

Black Kite Milvus migrans
Common in the Delhi-Agra area, but few at Bharatpur and none at Ranthambhor. Only the resident form M. m. govinda noted.

Lesser Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga nana
Fine views of one which was over-wintering at Bharatpur on 2nd.

Egyptian Vulture Neophron percnopterus
Locally frequent, max of 20 by the river behind the Taj Mahal and 35 at Jodhpur.

White-rumped (Indian White-backed) Vulture Gyps bengalensis
Now severely endangered. 2 at Ranthambhor on 6th and up to 6 over Jaisalmer on 11th-12th were the only ones recorded.

Indian Vulture (Long-billed Vulture) Gyps indicus
Also endangered. Up to 10 about Ranthambhor, and 2 over Desert National Park. The former Long-billed Vulture has recently been split into 2, with cliff-nesting populations being known as Indian Vulture, whilst easterly tree-nesters now known as Slender-billed Vulture.

Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus (E)
3 soaring at Desert National Park on 11th and about 6 at a carcass dump near Jodhpur on 13th.

Eurasian Black (Cinereous) Vulture Aegypius monachus
2 soaring at Desert National Park on 11th and about 6 at a carcass dump near Jodhpur on 13th, where we had magnificent views of three on the ground.

Red-headed Vulture Sarcogyps calvus
Total of 6 scattered in ones and twos.

Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus
One drifted over the Midway stop near Mathura on 1st and one at Desert National Park on 11th.

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
Strangely rare this year, but fine views of one at Ranthambhor on 7th.

Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus
Widely recorded.

Pallid Harrier Circus macrourus
Male at Bharatpur on 5th, also 2 single males and one ringtail at Desert National Park on 11th and one near Jodhpur on 13th.

Shikra Accipiter badius
A total of 22 seen; recorded virtually every day of the tour.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus
One hunting near Keoladeo Temple at Bharatpur on 4th.

White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa
Fine views of one perched on a tree-top at Ranthambhor on 7th.

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
One seen by Rob, perched by remnants of Sorwal Lake on 8th.

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus
Singles at Desert National Park and the Wood Fossil Park on 11th and 12th.

Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata
Pretty tricky (as distinctions from other similar eagles not fully clarified) but 2 single adults at Bharatpur might well have been part of the resident family there. Until recently treated as a subspecies of Lesser Spotted Eagle A. pomarina of Europe.

Greater Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga
The most numerous eagle at Bharatpur, up to 8 daily. Not noted elsewhere.

Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax
One in dry zone of Bharatpur on 5th; quite frequent (total of 13) in Jodhpur-Jaisalmer-Desert National Park area on extension.

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis

Only 2 or 3 at Bharatpur this winter but this was compensated for at a carcass dump near Jodhpur on 13th by a gathering of some 50 birds (nearly all first-years). Formerly included in Tawny Eagle A. rapax.

Eastern Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca
Splendid perched and flight views of 2 adults and a superb (pale but streaked) juvenile at Bharatpur; the only other was an adult at Gadisar Tank at Jaisalmer on 12th. Now separated from Spanish Imperial Eagle which is then termed A. adalberti.

Bonelli’s Eagle Hieraaetus fasciatus
Single juveniles at Painted Stork colony at Bharatpur on 2nd and 4th (on latter date chased an Intermediate Egret). At Ranthambhor a distant immature flushed by a Tiger on 7th and 2 soaring over entrance gorge on 9th.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus
An intermediate morph gave excellent views over Bharatpur on 2nd.

Common (Eurasian) Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Few recorded: a total of 6 scattered singles.

Laggar Falcon Falco jugger (E)
2 singles, one of which was chasing a Long-legged Buzzard, at Desert National Park on 11th

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
An adult of one of the northern races perched on a tree at Bharatpur on 2nd.

Black Francolin Francolinus francolinus
Male flew across road near Bharatpur on 1st, 3 flushed by boundary wall at Bharatpur on 4th and another flushed there on 5th.

Grey Francolin Francolinus pondicerianus
Widespread, vocally everywhere but only seen well at Ranthambhor.

Common Quail Coturnix coturnix (E)
4 flushed during our walk through grassland at Desert National Park on 11th.

Jungle Bush-quail Perdicula asiatica
5 or 6 skulking at the edge of a track at Ranthambhor on 7th gave endearing piping calls as the covey was separated by our presence.

Painted Spurfowl Galloperdix lunulata
Fabulous views of an approachable male near the Ranthambhor temple on 7th, plus more typical views of 3 scampering into cover later in the day.

Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus
Widespread, locally common - especially at Ranthambhor.

Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo (E)

The famous gathering at Khichan was well up to expectations, with at least 2,500 counted on ground about village houses and later by a small tank in town (on 11th).

Sarus Crane Grus antigone
A total of 8 during our drive from Delhi to Bharatpur on 1st with up to 5 at Bharatpur itself, but no others seen.

Common Crane Grus grus
75 at Bharatpur on 4th.

Water Rail Rallus aquaticus
3 singles seen at Bharatpur.

Brown Crake Amaurornis akool
2 singles at Bharatpur and 2-3 daily at Ranthambhor.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
Widely recorded in very small numbers.

Purple Swamphen (P Gallinule) Porphyrio porphyrio
Numerous about Bharatpur and adjacent pools and marshy areas, but only one noted at Ranthambhor. The various populations of this bird are accorded species status by some, the form concerned would then be Grey-headed Swamphen P. poliocephalus.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Widespread.

Eurasian (Common) Coot Fulica atra
Widespread.

Indian Bustard Ardeotis nigriceps (E)
Great views of 5 of these huge, endangered birds at Sudaseri in Desert National Park on 11th. The flying bird was quite outstanding.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus
Widely recorded in very small numbers, chiefly at Bharatpur and Ranthambhor..

Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus
Widely recorded in very small numbers, chiefly at Bharatpur and Ranthambhor..

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
Widespread.

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta
6 en route to Bharatpur on 1st, 2 at Bharatpur on 5th and some 250 at Sorwal Lake on 8th.

Stone-curlew (Eurasian Thick-knee) Burhinus oedicnemus
Only seen at Ranthambhor, where there were 2 on 6th.

Great Thick-knee (Stone Plover) Esacus recurvirostris
Up to 5 daily at Ranthambhor, and 10 at Sorwal Lake.

Cream-coloured Courser Cursorius cursor (E)

Superb views of 3 birds near Sudaseri in the Desert National Park on 11th. A pair were in display, bowing and rear-raising in a very elegant manner

Indian Courser Cursorius coromandelicus
Fine views of 12 of these lovely birds by the big kadams edging the dry area at Bharatpur, on 5th.

Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus
2 in flight by the big kadams edging the dry area at Bharatpur, on 5th.

River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii
About 6 on river behind the Taj Mahal on 3rd, but much better was one by the dam at Sorwal Lake on 8th. Formerly included in Spur-winged Plover/Lapwing V. spinosus of Africa.

Yellow-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus
Fine views of 6 of these lovely birds at Bharatpur, on 3rd.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus
Widespread.

Sociable Lapwing Vanellus gregarius
Now a threatened species, we were lucky to see 5 near the big kadams at Bharatpur on 5th.

White-tailed Lapwing Vanellus leucurus
Ones and twos widely scattered in swampy lakesides.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
Ones and twos at Ranthambhor daily, also one at Sorwal Lake.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
Huge numbers on dry basin of Sorwal Lake on 8th, some 500-1000 were estimated there.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
Widely recorded in very small numbers.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
Widely recorded in small parties.

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata
2 circled Bharatpur calling on 5th; one was at Sorwal Lake on 8th.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus
Widely recorded in small parties.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus
Widely recorded in small numbers.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
A small scatter of singles at various lakesides and pools.

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Widely recorded in small numbers.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
Widely recorded in very small numbers.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
Widely recorded in small numbers.

Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos
Widely recorded in very small numbers.

Little Stint Calidris minuta
70+ at Sorwal Lake on 5th.

Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii
4+ behind Taj Mahal on 3rd, 50+ at Sorwal Lake on 5th and one near Jaisalmer on 12th.

Dunlin Calidris alpina
20+ at Sorwal Lake on 5th.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax
Widely recorded.

Great Black-headed Gull (Pallas’s G) Larus ichthyaetus
First-winter bird noted behind the Taj Mahal on 3rd.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus (E)
2 at Gabisar Tank, Jaisalmer, on 12th.

River Tern Sterna aurantia
Scattered pairs widely recorded.

Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse Pterocles exustus
4 came to drink at Sorwal Lake on 8th. Frequent in small numbers at various locations on the tour extension.

Painted Sandgrouse Pterocles indicus
An excellent performance, with some 17 coming to drink at dusk at the road junction pool near Ranthambhor on 7th; another seen by Rob in daytime in fields outside Tiger Moon on 9th.

Rock Dove (Blue Rock Pigeon) Columba livia
Widespread and abundant. The Indian ssp intermedia doesn't have a white rump and is surprisingly pure over most of its range.

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto
Widespread and abundant.

Red Collared Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica
At least 4 at Bharatpur on 5th, ca15 at Sorwal Lake on 8th; numerous from train en route to Jaipur-Jodhpur.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis
Small numbers at Ranthambhor.

Laughing Dove (Little Brown) Streptopelia senegalensis
Widespread.

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicoptera
Widely recorded.

Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria
At least one at Ranthambhor on 9th, feeding and calling in tree tops at the ‘traffic jam’; better views for some of 4 at the Havelli tea stop on 13th.

Rose-ringed (Ring-necked) Parakeet Psittacula krameri
Widespread and abundant.

Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala
Common at Ranthambhor. Now separated from P. roseata, the Blossom-headed of N E India and SE Asia.

Asian Koel Eudynamys scolopacea
A female ‘spotted’ by John as we waited by the check-post leaving Ranthambhor on 9th was enjoyed by all; also heard at Jodhpur hotel as we left breakfast.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis
Widespread.

Indian Scops Owl Otus bakkamoena

Several seen at Bharatpur. The plains Indian form has recently been separated as Indian Scops Owl, with East Asian populations renamed as O. lempiji but retaining the name Collared Scops Owl.

Dusky Eagle Owl Bubo coromandus
Fine views of a pair at a nest with 2 or 3 well-grown young at Bharatpur on 2nd. Another nest seen through the trees at Ranthambhor.

Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis
One flapped away from creekside trees at Ranthambhor on 7th.

Spotted Owlet Athene brama
Several seen, chiefly at both Bharatpur and Ranthambhor.

Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulata
Fine views of a bird just inside gates at Bharatpur on 4th.

Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus
A very obliging bird at the Bharatpur nursery allowed to study every detail, down to its nasal bristles !

Little Swift Apus affinis
Small numbers at Ranthambhor gorge, Jaisalmer and the Centaur Hotel. These plains Indian forms are the same as the African species, whereas Himalayan (and south-east Asian) populations have been separated as House Swift A. nipalensis.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Widely recorded.

White-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis
Widely recorded.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis
Widely recorded.

Green Bee-eater (Little Green B) Merops orientalis
Strangely few noted, probably as a result of exceptionally cold weather prior to our visit. A few pairs about Sawai Madhopur and numerous on the extension.

Eurasian Hoopoe Upupa epops
Widely recorded.

Indian Grey Hornbill Tockus birostris
Frequent at Bharatpur and Agra.

Brown-headed (Green) Barbet Megalaima zeylanica

Singles in trees at the Taj Mahal on 3rd and in the nursery at Bharatpur next day. Formerly lumped with Lineated Barbet M. lineata of SE Asia and the Himalayas.

Crimson-breasted Barbet (Coppersmith) Megalaima haemacephala
2 in tree tops with green pigeons at Ranthambhor on 7th, another at Tiger Moon on 9th and one at the Centaur Hotel on 13th.

Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla
2 singles at Bharatpur on 2nd and 2 by dam of Sorwal Lake on 8th.

Brown-crowned Woodpecker Dendropicos moluccensis

Ones and twos at Bharatpur and Ranthambhor. Often separated as D. nanus from Malaysian or Lesser Pygmy W D. moluccensis of SE Asia.

Yellow-crowned (Yellow-fronted Pied) Woodpecker Picoides mahrattensis
Ones and twos at Bharatpur.

Black-rumped Flameback (Lesser Golden-backed Woodpecker) Dinopium benghalense
Widely recorded.

White-naped (Black-backed) Woodpecker Chrysocolaptes festivus
One calling at Ranthambhor on 6th.

Black-crowned Sparrow-lark Eremopterix nigriceps (E)
Numerous about Jaisalmer and in Desert National Park.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-lark Eremopterix grisea
Several in dry areas at Bharatpur and at Ranthambhor.

Rufous-tailed Lark Ammomanes phoenicurus
A pair in dry cultivation at Bharatpur, about Ranthambhor and even 2 at the Fossil Wood Park (near Jaisalmer).

Desert Lark Ammomanes deserti (E)
Several confiding birds at Fossil Wood Park near Jaisalmer on 12th.

Greater Hoopoe-lark Alaemon alaudipes (E)
One gave a burst of its looping-the-loop song flight in Desert National Park on 11th, but was only seen by David and Peter.

Bimaculated Lark Melanocorypha bimaculata
Large flock (ca 150) in fields by Sorwal dam on 8th, 12 by the helipad at Ranthambhor on 9th and immense flocks (circa 5000 in total) swarming over desert grasslands at Desert National Park on 11th.

(Greater) Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla
Several small flocks on the move about Ranthambhor and Sorwal, with much larger numbers (totalling 2000+) in Jaisalmer-Desert National Park areas. Formerly lumped with Red-capped Lark C. cinerea of Africa.

Hume’s Short-toed Lark Calandrella acutirostris (E)

4 or 5 at least, feeding with Greaters at Sudaseri in Desert National Park on 11th. Their relatively plain, almost unpatterned heads and drab greyness of plumage were the most striking features

Crested Lark Galerida cristata
A couple of pairs by Sorwal Dam on 8th, with others in Jaisalmer-Jodhpur part of tour.

Oriental Skylark (Eastern/Small S) Alauda gulgula
Several in song about grasslands of Bharatpur

Plain Martin (Brown-throated Sand M) Riparia paludicola
Several pairs nesting in holes of low sandy nullahs by Ranthambhor helipad on 8th.

Dusky Crag Martin Hirundo concolor
Very small numbers at Ranthambhor gorge, over Jaisalmer and at Centaur Hotel.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Very small numbers widely scattered.

Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii
Ones and twos at Bharatpur, and 3-4 pairs by Sorwal dam.

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica
Ones and twos about Ranthambhor, Sorwal and Centaur Hotel.

Streak-throated (Indian Cliff) Swallow Hirundo fluvicola
A colony by bridge to N of Bharatpur, a scattering at Bharatpur and seen well perched in tree tops with other swallows at Sorwal dam.

White Wagtail Motacilla alba

Widely recorded. A variety of races are found in India in winter, most that we had were probably of the ssp dukhunensis but 2 at the tea stop on the first day and one at Khichan on 10th were of the distinctive form personata which has been suggested to be specifically distinct as Masked Wagtail.

Black-backed Wagtail Motacilla lugens

A bird on the river by the Taj Mahal was of the race alboides. There is much argument over the taxonomic arrangement of the White Wagtail complex.

White-browed (Large Pied) Wagtail Motacilla madaraspatensis
A few scattered birds, but most memorable was the pair on the first day with 2 races of White Wagtails as we stopped for tea .

Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola
Widely recorded.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
4 by Sorwal Lake on 8th and one at Desert National Park on 11th seemed to be of ssp beema (Sykes’s Wagtail).

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
Singles at Midway Hotel on first day and at Bharatpur on next were the only ones.

Oriental (Paddyfield) Pipit Anthus rufulus

Frequent in dry cultivation at Bharatpur and at Sorwal dam. These were formerly treated as tropical races of the complex formerly included with Richard’s Pipit in A. novaeseelandiae.

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris
4 at helipad area near Ranthambhor on 8th, and frequent in Desert National Park.

Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis (E)
Several in dry grassland of Desert National Park on 11th.

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni
Widely recorded but mostly heard in ‘jungle’.

Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei
One flying overhead at Tiger Moon on 9th was the only one..

Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus
Widely recorded.

White-bellied Minivet Pericrocotus erythropygius (E)
Female by the temple at Osian on 10th gave a fine view.

White-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus leucotis
Frequent at Bharatpur and common in Jaisalmer region. Formerly lumped with White-cheeked (Himalayan) Bulbul P. leucogenys of the Himalayas.

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer
Widely recorded.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia
2 in the hotel grounds at Tiger Moon.

White-tailed (Marshall’s) Iora Aegithina nigrolutea
One seen briefly by Rob at Bharatpur on 4th.

Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
One at Agra Fort on 3rd.

Orange-headed Thrush Zoothera citrina
A superb bird teased 2 photographers at Bharatpur on 4th.

Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler) Cisticola juncidis
At least one calling in fields by Sorwal Lake on 8th.

Rufous-fronted Prinia Prinia buchanani
Several in dry gullies at Ranthambhor helipad and just outside Tiger Moon.

Graceful Prinia (Streaked Wren-warbler) Prinia gracilis (E)
At least 5 in the scrubby grasslands of Desert National Park on 11th.

Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis
Widely recorded.

Plain Prinia Prinia inornata
Widely recorded. Sometimes included in Tawny-flanked Prinia P. subflava of Africa.

Moustached Warbler Acrocephalus melanopogon
One seen near the Clamorous Reed at Bharatpur on 4th. This bird was of the duller subspecies mimica.

Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum
Frequent at Bharatpur plus a few elsewhere.

Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus
One seen well at Bharatpur on 4th

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius
Widely recorded.

Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita
Widely recorded as subspecies tristis.

Smoky Warbler Phylloscopus fuligiventer
One at Bharatpur, living on islands just off the Shanti Kutir bund, but only heard calling !

Hume's (Leaf-) Warbler Phylloscopus humei
Widely recorded. Formerly included in Yellow-browed Warbler P. inornatus

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides
Certainly a few at Bharatpur, but the calls are identical to those of Hume’s which is all over the place, so easily overlooked.

Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca
Widely recorded as subspecies blythi.

Desert Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia minula (E)

Several in Desert National Park and at the Fossil Wood Park next day were considered to be this form which is often lumped within Lesser Whitethroat S. curruca.

Asian Desert Warbler Sylvia nana (E)

Several in Desert National Park on 11th and at least one in the Fossil Wood Park next day - often noticed following Desert Wheatears about. Now generally separated from North African form as a good species.

Eastern Orphean Warbler Sylvia crassirostris
One seen near the Clamorous Reed at Bharatpur on 4th. Now generally separated from western European form S. hortensis.

Red-breasted Flycatcher Muscicapa parva
Widely recorded, but chiefly heard calling. The eastern form albicilla is now generally split as Red-throated or Taiga Flycatcher but only "nominate" parva was identified on this tour.

Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis
Quite widely recorded, but chiefly heard calling.

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica
Widely recorded.

Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis
Widely recorded.

Indian Robin Saxicoloides fulicata
Widely recorded.

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros
Widely recorded as red-bellied phoenicuroides.

Siberian Stonechat Saxicola maura

One at Ranthambhor on 7th and 3 at Sorwal Lake next day. Asian forms now usually considered specifically distinct from both European Stonechat S. rubicola and African Stonechat S. torquata

Pied Bushchat (P Stonechat) Saxicola caprata
Widely recorded.

Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea
Fine views of a female at the nursery at Bharatpur on 4th.

Variable (Eastern Pied) Wheatear Oenanthe picata (E)

Frequent in the Jaisalmer-Desert National Park sector of the tour. There are 3 main colour morphs (all of which were noted on this tour): "picata" (like Hume’s), "capistrata" (like Pied) and "opistholeuca" (like Black). All forms breed in discrete regions (mostly in Afghanistan) and appear to be evolving into separate species.

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti (E)
Frequent in the Jaisalmer-Desert National Park sector of the tour. The most numerous wheatear.

Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina (E)
Frequent in the Jaisalmer-Desert National Park sector of the tour.

Indian (Brown Rock) Chat Cercomela fusca
Widely recorded.

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola
Widely recorded.

Common Babbler Turdoides caudatus
Several about Bharatpur and Ranthambhor, but most common on the tour extension to Desert NP.

Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei
A party of about 6 in tall grasses by roadside between Matura and Bharatpur on 1st.

Large Grey Babbler Turdoides malcolmi
Widely recorded.

Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus
Widely recorded and abundant.

Great (Grey) Tit Parus major
Several at Ranthambhor. Occasionally separated as Cinereus or Asian Grey Tit P. cinereus.

Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica
Widely recorded.

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosa
Scattered parties widely recorded.

Eurasian Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus
2 at Bharatpur on 4th.

Rufous-tailed Shrike (Isabelline S) Lanius isabellinus
Two at Bharatpur on 5th and one at the Desert National Park on 11th. There is a move to split this into 2 or even 3 species. Our birds showed features associated with Turkestan Shrike L. phoenicuroides.

Bay-backed Shrike Lanius vittatus
Widely recorded in very small numbers.

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach
Widely recorded.

Southern Grey Shrike Lanius meridionalis
Widely recorded in small numbers in arid country about Ranthambhor and throughout the tour extension to Jaisalmer area. The resident Indian form lahtora belongs to the group of races which have recently been separated from Great Grey Shrike L. excubitor.

Common Wood-shrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus
Numerous at Bharatpur and Ranthambhor.

Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus
Widespread and common.

White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens
Quite common at Ranthambhor.

Rufous (Indian) Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda
Widely recorded.

House Crow Corvus splendens
Widespread and abundant.

Large-billed (Jungle) Crow Corvus macrorhynchos
Widely recorded. The Indian lowland form often separated as C. levaillanti (the Jungle Crow).

Common Raven Corvus corax (E)
Scattered ones and twos throughout the tour extension to the Jaisalmer area.

Bank Myna Acridotheres ginginianus
Widely recorded.

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis
Widespread and abundant.

Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra
Widely recorded.

Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum
Widely recorded.

Rosy Starling (Rose-coloured Starling) Pastor roseus (E)
Several small parties between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer.

European Starling Sturnus vulgaris
6 at Bharatpur on 4th-5th and 6 at Sorwal Lake on 8th.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus
Widespread.

Spanish Sparrow Passer hispaniolensis (E)
A male at the Fossil Wood Park on 12th.

Chestnut-shouldered Petronia Petronia xanthocollis
Widely recorded - do you remember its song - probably not ?

Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus
At least 2 with the parties of Black-breasted Weavers in dry zone of Bharatpur on 5th,

Bengal (Black-breasted) Weaver Ploceus benghalensis
At least 20 in dry zone of Bharatpur on 5th,

Red Avadavat Estrilda amandava
Party of about 10 in roadside grasses between Matura and Bharatpur on 1st.

Indian Silverbill (White-throated Munia) Lonchura malabarica
Widely recorded.

Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus
3 "females" drinking at a stream at Ranthambhor on 9th.

Trumpeter Finch Rhodopechys githaginea (E)
A party of 5 found by Grant on rocks of Fossil Wood Park on 12th gave splendid views:- later a male was bleating away in full song.

Crested Bunting Melophilus lathami
At least 10 coming to drink at a pool at Ranthambhor on 9th.

White-capped (Chestnut-breasted) Bunting Emberiza stewarti
5 at Ranthambhor on 7th but much better views of 2 males drinking there on 9th.

Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps
At least 4 in fields by Sorwal dam on 8th.

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MAMMALS

Grey Musk Shrew (G House Shrew) Suncus murinus
One seen by Steve at the Ranthambhor entrance gate on 8th.

Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta
Widespread., especially along roadsides and at temples.

Hanuman Langur (Common or Grey L) Presbytes entellus
Common at Ranthambhor .

Golden Jackal Canis aureus
A familiar sound at Bharatpur, several excellent views of up to 4 together by the park barrier.

Red Fox (Desert Fox) Vulpes vulpes (E)
Singles of the subspecies pusilla in the Desert National Park and near Jaisalmer on 11th and 12th.

Dhole (Indian Wild Dog) Cuon alpinus
Arguably THE mammal of the trip; we had superb views of one in the forest at Ranthambhor on our first drive on 6th. This was a complete surprise as this species has decreased alarmingly throughout India in recent years and hangs on by the skin of its teeth at Ranthambhor.

Indian Grey Mongoose (Common M) Herpestes edwardsii
Several sightings.

Ruddy Mongoose Herpestes smithii
Several sightings at Ranthambhor.

Wild Cat (Desert Cat) Felis sylvestris
This cat was sunning itself on a low branch near the barrier at Bharatpur in the late afternoon of 2nd; although pointed out as "Jungle Cat" examination of Dave’s photos show it to be a Wild Cat, southern forms of which are often separated as Desert Cat F. lybica.

Tiger Panthera tigris
What amazing sightings at Ranthambhor. The first was on our first drive on 6th - a rather distant head and shoulders view of a young male resting under bushes. Next morning we were the first vehicle in the park and came face to face (rather tail to tail) with the same male - he strode out of the bushes behind the truck and nonchalantly walked down the road as we went into reverse to follow him; he scent-marked a fallen branch before walking off into the scrub. During the afternoon drive on 7th we had distant views of a female walking by a stream but all of this was to be eclipsed by encountering the young male again. This time he was sunning himself on the parapet of an old building by the lakeside; pretty soon a young Chital arrived and waded into the water, before it knew what had happened the tiger had dropped the 8m or so straight on top of it, killed it and dragged the carcass to the shore. Barry Hancock was lucky enough to get the entire episode on video !

Wild Boar Sus scrofa
A few at Bharatpur, plenty at Ranthambhor.

Chital (Spotted Deer) Cervus axis
A few at Bharatpur, plenty at Ranthambhor.

Sambar Cervus unicolor
A few at Bharatpur, plenty at Ranthambhor.

Nilgai Boselaphus tragocamelus
Frequent throughout the tour.

Indian Gazelle (Chinkara) Gazella bennettii (E)

Frequent on the extension, particularly between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer. Sometimes included in Dorcas Gazelle G. dorcas of North Africa and the Middle East.

Indian Hare Lepus nigricollis
One flushed in dry zone at Bharatpur on 5th.

Northern Palm Squirrel Funambulus pennanti
Widespread.

Black Rat Rattus rattus
Singles of the brown form ("Alexandrine Rat") at Bharatpur and Ranthambhor!

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REPTILES

Mugger (Marsh Crocodile) Crocodylus palustris
Several (25+), some pretty massive, at Ranthambhor.

Common Indian Monitor Varanus bengalensis
2 singles at Bharatpur.

Indian Python Python molorus
A total of 5 very fine pythons at Bharatpur.

Common Rat-Snake Ptyas mucosus
This was the large "water snake" at Bharatpur.

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BUTTERFLIES

The dry season is the least productive time for butterflies in India, hence the brevity of this list.

Common Mormon Papilio polytes

Common Emigrant Catopsilia pomona

Small Grass Yellow Eurema brigitta

Common Gull Cepora nerissa

White Orange Tip Ixias marianne

Lemon Pansy Junonia lemonias

Peacock Pansy Junonia almana

Blue Pansy Junonia orithya

Yellow Pansy Junonia hierta

Painted Lady Cynthia cardui

Plain Tiger Danaus chrysippus

Striped Tiger Danaus genutia

Common Indian Crow Euploea core

Zebra Blue Leptotes plinius

Tiny Grass Blue Zizula hylax

Lesser Grass Blue Zizina otis