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Trip Report

Africa's Jewel in the Sun

Fri 27th February - Fri 5th March 2004

Leaders: Graham Clark & Dembo Sonko

Trip Diary

The Gambia is a tiny country but it is possible to see a wealth of birds within its limited borders which provide an excellent introduction to sub-Saharan birding. Our tour was no exception and the 244 species we jointly recorded was an impressive total. We visited a variety of bush, forest, mangrove and coastal habitats and made a bumpy but very productive journey upriver to Tendaba where our morning trip into the mangrove creeks was an undoubted highlight. We spotted 26 species of raptor and four owls and a bewildering selection of Kingfishers and Bee-eaters, Rollers and Sunbirds. In particular, we will remember the Bearded Barbets, White-crowned Robin-chats and Yellow-crowned Gonoleks in the hotel grounds, the Pearl-spotted Owlet and Blue-bellied Rollers on Fajara golf course, the Violet Turacos and Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrikes at Tanji and the Giant Kingfisher and Verreaux’s Eagle Owl at Abuko followed by the Northern White-faced Owl at the school at Lamin. Highlights of the second half of the week were Grey-headed Bush-shrike, White-crested Helmet-shrike and Spotted Honeyguide at Marakissa, Martial Eagle and Northern Carmine Bee-eaters on our way upriver, Temminck’s Courser, Bronze-winged Courser on the nest and Four-banded Sandgrouse coming in to drink near Tendaba, African Fish Eagle and Goliath Heron on the boat trip and a terrific total of 11 Abyssinian Ground Hornbills on our way back to the coast. There was really no need to debate the weather each evening — it was always hot, and got hotter upriver. We also enjoyed good food and comfortable accommodation throughout our stay.

Day 1. Friday 27th February. Both our flights were on time and after negotiating the scrums around the baggage carousel the journeys in from the airport gave us our first looks at such Gambian stalwarts as Yellow-billed Kite, Hooded Vulture and Pied Crow. We settled into our rooms and then spent an hour looking around the hotel grounds. This produced a wealth of new species with which we were to become familiar over the coming days including four common doves - Speckled Pigeon, Red-eyed Dove, Vinaceous Dove and Laughing Dove — plus Western Grey Plantain-eater, Senegal Coucal and Red-billed Hornbill. Smaller species were represented by Common Bulbul, African Thrush, Blackcap Babbler, the stunning Yellow-crowned Gonolek, Purple and Long-tailed Glossy Starlings, Grey-headed Sparrow and Village Weaver. We also found a mixed flock of exquisite tiny finches which included Red-billed Firefinch, Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu, the silky-smooth Lavender Waxbill, African Silverbill and Bronze Mannikin. They lived up to their exotic names and most were to be our companions for the rest of the tour. As the light began to fade we identified a begging African Harrier-hawk which remained throughout our stay. (36 species)

Day 2. Saturday 28th February. After breakfast we made for the open parkland habitat of the Fajara golf course. A tail-less Northern Crombec dashed about at the bridge over the creek and we had a good look at an exquisite Malachite Kingfisher. We climbed up onto a sand dune at the beginning of the golf course where we were entertained by Double-spurred Francolin, Black-billed Wood Dove, Senegal Parrot, Grey-backed Camaroptera and both Splendid and Variable Sunbird. Out on the golf course proper all three Vanellus plovers - Black-headed Lapwing, Wattled Lapwing and Spur-winged Plover - showed pretty much together, Yellow-billed Shrikes were common and a Pearl-spotted Owlet performed beautifully. We took a soft drink from the travelling bar and descended to the edge of the mangrove creek which held Long-tailed Cormorant, Great and Little Egret, a Striated Heron, Pied Kingfisher, Whimbrel, Greenshank and single Curlew Sandpiper and Bar-tailed Godwit. A Grey Kestrel dashed past us and Sacred Ibises were more leisurely. We continued along the edge of the creek where an immature Purple Heron flapped past, a Shikra perched up beautifully, Red-chested Swallows hawked for insects around us and African Palm Swift, Little Swift and Mottled Spinetail zoomed overhead. Other highlights were Little Bee-eaters hunting from their characteristically low perches, Blue-bellied Rollers with their strange whirring call, Green Wood-hoopoe, Grey Woodpecker and Tawny-flanked Prinia. We crossed to the other side of the creek where we found flocks of White-billed Buffalo Weavers (without white bills), Northern Red Bishops and at least 100 Piapiacs including a number of pink-billed immatures. An Intermediate Egret showed very well allowing us to appreciate the subtle identification features. We eventually arrived at the Kotu sewage ponds where we were greeted by ten Little Grebes, 100 White-faced Whistling-ducks, ten African Jacanas (including a number of young birds) and tottering Black-winged Stilts. A vegetarian Palm-nut Vulture cruised past, two Squacco Herons stalked silently, Black Crakes balanced precariously on the water hyacinths and a winter adult White-winged Black Tern showed well. Green, Wood and Common Sandpipers worked the muddy edges along with stunning summer-plumaged Marsh Sandpipers and a female Namaqua Dove and Yellow Wagtail of the race iberiae. We retired to the hotel where a Broad-billed Roller on the TV aerial, Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird and Beautiful Sunbird provided lunchtime entertainment.

After a leisurely siesta we made for the mangroves along the Bund Road on the outskirts of Banjul. Pink-backed Pelicans, White-breasted Cormorants and Grey-headed Gulls were out on the rusting wrecks in the river, a Yellow-billed Stork and Avocet showed well in flight and surprisingly good numbers of Slender-billed Gulls were out on the water with the Black-headed Gulls. African Mourning Doves perched up allowing us a look at the subtle distinguishing features and to hear the distinctive song and seven Ruddy Turnstones wandered about on the hard-shoulder! We made our way to a shallow lake within the mangrove complex where three Black Egrets were perched allowing us to compare specific features with the greyer Western Reef Egrets, a rather woebegone Greater Flamingo was out on the water and two Gull-billed Terns hawked overhead. From the beach in the town we had great views of menacing Skuas and were eventually able to pick out Pomarine from Arctic more by their bulkier structure than by any specific plumage feature. Four Sandwich Terns accompanied them. We headed out of Banjul and stopped at an area of slack water in the dunes where ten Oystercatchers and a single Curlew were good finds along with our only Kentish Plover of the trip. The day was completed at dinner with the delivery of a ‘surprise’ birthday cake to celebrate Heather’s birthday. (116 species)

Day 3. Sunday 29th February. Tanji Bird Reserve was our destination this morning and it lived up to its reputation as a haven for a good selection of bush species. We started off with great views of a pair of Common Wattle-eyes quickly followed by an equally good look at a pair of Senegal Batis and a Black-crowned Tchagra also eventually showed well. African Grey Hornbill, a pair of Vieillot’s Barbet and a Bearded Barbet also showed although most people were getting better views of the latter species back at the hotel. A pair of Gambian Sun Squirrels climbed into an acacia. We were able to compare three wintering Phylloscopus warblersWillow, Chiffchaff and Western Bonelli’s — the latter by far the commonest — along with a single Melodious Warbler and the warbler-like Green-backed Eremomela. We crossed the road to similar habitat nearer the beach which gave us excellent views of the magnificent Violet Turaco and on our return pairs of the equally superb Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike and Swallow-tailed Bee-eater. Ospreys cruised overhead and a pair of Senegal Thick-knees were seen well. Down at the beach a mixed flock of Caspian and Royal Terns were resting on a sandbar, 30 Sanderlings foraged along the tide-line and we located a single White-fronted Plover. A flock of White Pelicans were seen in the distance on the Bijol Islands. We stopped at the beach in Tanji village were an adult Kelp Gull was picked out from the Lesser black-backs by its chunky structure, heavy bill, red eye-ring, dull yellow legs and black mantle (although an equally dark Lesser Black-back of one of the northern races confused the issue for a bit) and a similarly structured second-winter bird was located alongside. We took lunch at the nearby Paradise Inn which was pleasantly shady and produced both Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher and Yellow-fronted Canary on a post-luncheon investigation of the grounds.

In the afternoon the majority of us walked the trail through the Brufut Forest Reserve which was, despite its name, mostly in more open woodland habitat. A pair of Black-shouldered Kites displayed and hunted for our benefit and Chestnut-crowned Sparrow Weaver eventually showed well. We went through a purple patch with Singing and Whistling Cisticola, Red-winged Warbler and a pair of Cardinal Woodpeckers all showing well A Lizard Buzzard perched up prominently as did a male Scarlet-chested Sunbird, a lone Tree Pipit showed briefly and both Mosque Swallow and Fanti Saw-wing zipped overhead. A flock of Northern Red Bishops feeding on the ground also contained four Black-winged birds and a single Pin-tailed Whydah. A terrific look at a male Greater Honeyguide and a fly-past of some ten African Pied Hornbills completed the proceedings. (117 species)

Day 4. Monday 1st March. Our pre-breakfast stroll in the hotel grounds finally gave everyone a good look at White-crowned Robin-chat before we headed off for the well-wooded Abuko reserve where the first bird we saw well was Snowy-crowned Robin-chat to complete the set. At the first pool we had good views of Red-billed Wood Dove and the magnificent Giant Kingfisher along with a perched Grey Kestrel. At the main pool Black-headed Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron and Hammerkop all showed well. Smaller birds were represented by Little Greenbul, a Yellow-throated Leaf-love, Yellow-breasted Apalis, Spectacled Weaver and an African Paradise Flycatcher to go along with the Red-bellied birds. A single Green Turaco showed reasonably well but a sleeping Verreaux’s Eagle Owl was much easier to see occasionally winking its pink eyelids at us. Both Green Vervet and Red Colobus Monkeys were spotted by some and we had a reasonable look at a pale morph Booted Eagle on the way out. We took lunch at Lamin Lodge where mudskippers sat out in the open, a male Western Marsh Harrier quartered the mangroves and a migratory Black Kite was picked out amongst its sedentary Yellow-billed relatives.

After lunch we were taken to a new stakeout for Northern White-faced Owl — an excursion which involved a second local guide and a school cook and caretaker! The bird showed well at roost along with a confiding Agama Lizard on a classroom wall. Some of us continued on to Yundum Woods and were rewarded with Dark Chanting Goshawk, Striped Kingfisher (an open country specialist), Swallow-tailed Bee-eaters hunting from exposed perches, a Lesser Honeyguide and four Yellow-billed Oxpeckers. A Wire-tailed and Pied-winged Swallow perched alongside their commoner Red-chested cousins allowing for a good comparison as did both Northern Black Flycatcher and Fork-tailed Drongo showing how very similar they were although the latter was a glossier bird with a more angular head and strongly forked tail. (103 species)

Day 5. Tuesday 2nd March. We ventured a little further inland today to the bush at Marakissa and estuary at Darsilami. African Green Pigeon and a dapper Fine-spotted Woodpecker were both seen en route and a male Northern Puffback with some female/ immature birds performed well on arrival at Marakissa. A Lanner, Blue-bellied Rollers, Broad-billed Rollers and African Pied Hornbills all gave good views as did three White-crested Helmet-shrikes which were new. Three African Hawk Eagles soared overhead before we were forced to ‘camp out’ under a single acacia for a time as it held a Lesser Honeyguide an African Yellow White-eye and a Green-backed Eremomela. At lunch at the Marakissa River Lodge a Black Egret performed its ‘umbrella’ act. Dembo’s stakeout for the rare Spotted Honeyguide proved good again and two Common Moorhens were spotted on the way to Darsilami on the Senegalese border. Here a pair of Yellow-throated Longclaw, Plain-backed Pipit, a Zitting Cisticola and 11‘oh so hard to get a good look at on the ground’ African Quailfinches were the highlights. On the way back we made one last and this time successful, try for the magnificent Grey-headed Bush-shrike which sang vociferously from a tree-top and a female Greater Honeyguide showed up for good measure. We all managed to peer under the roof back at the lodge where two juvenile Barn Owls were wedged in and a Red-necked Falcon perched by the road on the return journey rounded the day off nicely. (106 species)

Day 6. Wednesday 3rd March. We started early for our trip up-river and despite a problem with the bus battery we managed to get it started and just made the Barra ferry with your intrepid leaders jumping across a metre of open water! A pale morph adult Pomarine Skua showed well on the crossing and we then breakfasted on omelettes and coffee at a local establishment while Omar fixed the bus and then headed off east. Northern Anteater Chats were the first new birds to show well as they perched up on termite mounds and then we got into a wealth of new raptors. A magnificent adult Martial Eagle, equally stunning male Montagu’s Harrier, two Grasshopper Buzzards, three Wahlberg’s Eagles, at least two Beaudouin’s Snake Eagles, half-a-dozen Common Kestrels and a Peregrine all gave good views during this purple patch for birds of prey. It wasn’t only raptors however and Bruce’s Green Pigeon, Striped Kingfisher, Rufous-crowned and Abyssinian Roller and Chestnut-backed Sparrow-lark were just as exciting. The real highlight of the morning however was probably the three Northern Carmine Bee-eaters hawking for insects from a roadside bush which rather eclipsed the European Bee-eaters we encountered en-route but perhaps not the stunning male Pygmy Sunbird which came right in to the side of the bus. Two Red Patas Monkeys dashing away completed the picture. We stopped at the Illiasa marsh before lunch and here Purple Heron, Western Marsh Harrier, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper and eight unexpected Whiskered Terns in with the White-winged Blacks were all notable but the highlight was six tiny Kittlitz’s Plovers.

After lunch we continued up-river past a pair of African Hawk Eagles with a flavissima Yellow Wagtail in the same roadside tree and finally reached the second river ferry at Farafenni. We screeched to a halt for three Temminck’s Coursers and a flock of 20 Black-rumped Waxbills and four Yellow-billed Storks were on show on our arrival at Tendaba. After we were settled in some of us ventured out again along the Batelling bush track and were rewarded with a White-shouldered Black Tit a Brubru and two Bush Petronias. The two highlights here though were undoubtedly a Bronze-winged Courser, which we inadvertently flushed from a nest with two eggs, and the 70-100 Four-banded Sandgrouse which were eventually able to come in to drink at a local well at dusk. We had a look at Jupiter and four moons before celebrating George’s birthday at dinner. Some of us even went out again after dinner for a night drive along the Batelling bush track where we heard Spotted Thick-knee and eventually located a Long-tailed Nightjar on the track in the beam of the headlights. A ‘bouncing’ Bush Baby was totally unexpected. (120 species)

Day 7. Thursday 4th March. We set out in our narrow craft on our eagerly anticipated trip across the river but turned back briefly for a magnificent adult African Fish Eagle perched high in a baobab on the south bank. Royal Terns loafed on the mid-river pontoons and Grey Plovers lined the mud on the far bank before we crept into the quiet world of the mangrove creeks. Here Darters were immediately apparent, Striated Herons and Senegal Thick-knees sat motionless, Malachite and Blue-breasted Kingfishers perched prominently and Mouse-brown Sunbirds whizzed overhead. Enormous Goliath Herons flapped lazily ahead, we disturbed two Woolly-necked Storks which perched high in bank-side trees for us and a White-backed Night Heron was on the nest at the boatmen’s stakeout. We got reasonable views of the dainty African Blue Flycatcher and a Marsh Mongoose put in a brief appearance. Back at Tendaba George and Stephanie had added Spur-winged Goose, Banded Snake Eagle and another African Fish Eagle to the list.

After lunch we started back on the drive to the coast and were lucky when four Lesser Blue-eared Glossy Starlings popped up into a tree at the side of the road. We stopped at the ‘raptor bridge’ which came up trumps with no less than nine Abyssinian Ground Hornbills wandering about sedately for our perusal! Two Grasshopper Buzzards, a displaying Lanner, a stunning male African Golden Oriole and a Yellow-billed Oxpecker on the only grey cow were the other highlights here. We continued on our way and stopped briefly at Bama Kuno where we found a pair of White-fronted Black-chats but two Black Scimitar-bills did not put on such a good show. Two further Ground Hornbills, which flew across the road in front of us, and two further Oxpeckers on another cow completed the proceedings. (120 species)

Day 8. Friday 5th March. A few of us headed for Pirang for the final morning. Here we eventually connected with the three remaining Black Crowned Cranes and we also added a sub-adult and an immature White-backed Vulture to the list. Other highlights were an adult and immature Black-shouldered Kite seen very closely, another Lanner, a pair of Namaqua Doves seen very well (including a very bright male), Senegal Parrot at the nest, a juvenile Barn Owl in the hand, two Wire-tailed Swallows and three African Quailfinch. Back at the hotel a passage of 600 Little Terns north per hour was notable, the Bearded Barbets were performing again and an Oriole Warbler was new. We took our final lunch and said goodbyes and thank-yous to Dembo and Omar on the way to the airport. Our flights were pretty much on time and we arrived back in London (and Manchester as far as I am aware!) only a little late.

Thanks to you all for being such excellent company and such good spotters!

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Annotated Species List

(242 species seen in total and another 2 heard only)

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Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

Ten at the Kotu sewage ponds on 28th Feb. were the only ones.

Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus

Thirty or so on the Bijol Islands off Tanji beach on 29th Feb.

Pink-backed Pelican Pelecanus rufescens

Thirty on the wrecks off the Bund road on 28th Feb. and a similar number on the Gambia river on 3rd and 4th March.

Great (White-breasted) Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Six on the wrecks off the Bund road on 28th Feb. and another at Tendaba.

Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus

Regularly in suitable mangrove and wetland habitat.

Darter Anhinga melanogaster

Twenty on the creek-crawl on 4 March was easily the best count and some gave terrific views.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

A few seen almost daily in suitable wetland habitat.

Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala

A dozen at Abuko on 1 March were mostly immatures easily picked out in flight by their sharply defined under-wing pattern. A few more on the journey up-river.

Goliath Heron Ardea goliath

We kept disturbing this huge heron on the creek-crawl on 4 March and estimated a total of four as they flew ahead of us.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

An immature along the Kotu stream on 28 Feb. and two adults at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

Great Egret Ardea alba

Regularly in suitable wetland habitat.

Black Egret (Black Heron) Egretta ardesiaca

Three in the mangroves behind the Bund road on 28 Feb., one at Abuko on 1 March and another fishing under its umbrella at Marakissa river lodge on 2 March. Much blacker than Western Reef Egret, without a white throat and with darker yellow feet.

Intermediate (Yellow-billed) Egret Egretta intermedia

Single examples of this stocky heron at Kotu stream on 28 Feb., at Abuko on 1 March and on the creek-crawl on 4 March. Has a shorter bill than Great Egret and the yellow gape-line does not extend behind the eye.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Regularly in suitable wetland habitat but not as common as Great Egret.

Western Reef Egret Egretta gularis

Common in mangroves.

Squacco Heron Ardeola ralloides

A few in wetland habitats.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Common and seen every day.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus

One along the Kotu stream on 28 Feb. and ten on the creek crawl on 4 March.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Three at Abuko on 1 March and again on 2 March.

White-backed Night Heron Gorsachius leuconotus

One on the nest in the mangroves on 4 March was expertly picked out by the boat crew.

Hamerkop Scopus umbretta

Seen on five days with three at Abuko on 1 March the best count.

Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis

One flew across the Bund road on 28 Feb.; four at Tendaba on 3 and 4 March.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

We flushed two which then perched high in a dead tree on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus

Six along the Kotu stream and Bund road on 28 Feb. were the only ones.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

A decrepit looking specimen behind the Bund road on 28 Feb.

White-faced Whistling-duck Dendrocygna viduata

A hundred at the Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb. were the only ones.

Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis

George and Stephanie saw one at Tendaba on 4 March.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

Seen on four days with four on 29 Feb. and 4 March the best counts.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

A pair displaying and hunting at Brufut on 29 Feb., again on 1 and 2 Mar and an adult and immature at Pirang on 5 Mar.

Black Kite Milvus migrans migrans

One was definitively identified at Lamin lodge on 1 March. More uniform than Yellow-billed Kite with a contrasting pale head and only partially yellow bill.

Yellow-billed Kite Milvus (migrans) parasitus

Everywhere!

African Fish Eagle Haliaetus vocifer

A cracking adult perched above the Gambia river from the boat and an imm seen by George and Stephanie on 4 March.

Palm-nut Vulture Gypohierax angolensis

Seen daily from 28 Feb. to 3 March but only six in total.

Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus

Everywhere!

White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus

A sub-adult and an immature drifted overhead at Pirang on 5 March.

Beaudouin’s Snake Eagle Circaetus beaudouini

As we headed up-river on 3 March, at least ten snake eagles with pale underparts were seen. Two were seen to be this species, but others (seen from a moving bus!) may have been either Beaudouin's or Short-toed Eagles.

Western Banded Snake Eagle Circaetus cinerascens

George and Stephanie saw a bird believed to be this species at Tendaba on 4 March.

Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

A male from Lamin lodge on 1 March and another at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus

A cracking male as we headed up-river on 3 March.

African Harrier-hawk Polyboroides typus

Seen every day with the begging juveniles in the grounds of the Senegambia hotel particularly notable.

Lizard Buzzard Kaupifalco monogrammicus

Seven in all of this smart raptor with some perched up very well.

Dark Chanting Goshawk Melierax metabates

Seen daily from 1 to 4 March and again with some excellent views.

Shikra Accipiter badius

This pale and lively accipiter seen daily from 28 Feb. to 4 March.

Grasshopper Buzzard Butastur rufipennis

Two on 3 and 4 March showed their rufous flight feathers very well.

Wahlberg’s Eagle Aquila wahlbergi

Three showed reasonably well on 3 March to those that could tear themselves away from the Striped Kingfisher!

African Hawk Eagle Hieraaetus spilogaster

Three at Marakissa on 2 March and a very confiding pair as we headed up-river on 3 March.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

A pale morph bird at Abuko on 1 March and another as we headed up-river on 3 March.

Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus

A cracking adult as we headed up-river on 3 March.

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Six as we headed up-river on 3 March.

Grey Kestrel Falco ardosiaceus

Ten in total on five separate days.

Red-necked Falcon Falco chiquera

A single bird perched by the road as we left Marakissa on 2 March.

Lanner Falco biarmicus

One at Marakissa on 2 Mar, two at the ‘raptor bridge’ on 4 Mar (including one displaying) and one at Pirang on 5 Mar.

Peregrine Falco peregrinus

One over the bus as we headed up-river on 3 March.

Double-spurred Francolin Francolinus bicalcaratus

On the Fajara golf course on 28 Feb. and daily from 2 to 5 March.

Black Crowned Crane Balearica pavonina

We eventually located the three birds at Pirang on 5 March.

Black Crake Amaurornis flavirostris

Four in water hyacinths at Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb., two at Marakissa river lodge on 2 March and again at Tendaba on 4 March.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Two at Marakissa on 2 March were the only ones.

African Jacana Actophilornis africanus

Ten at the Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb. and daily from 1 to 4 March.

Eurasian Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus

Ten along the coast from Banjul on 28 Feb. were the only ones.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

At Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb., on the journey up-river on 3 March and at Pirang on 5 March.

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

One along the Bund road on 28 Feb. was the only one.

Senegal Thick-knee Burhinus senegalensis

Two at Tanji on 29 Feb., three on 2 March, 15 on the creek-crawl on 4 March and five at Pirang on 5 March.

Spotted Thick-knee Burhinus capensis

Heard at night along the Batelling bush track on 3 March.

Temminck’s Courser Cursorius temminckii

Three east of Tendaba on 3 March showed very well.

Bronze-winged Courser Rhinoptilus chalcopterus

One flushed from a nest with two eggs along the Batelling bush track on 3 March.

Spur-winged Plover Vanellus spinosus

Seen nearly every day in a variety of habitats most often near water.

Black-headed Lapwing Vanellus tectus

On the Fajara golf course on 28 Feb. and on the way up-river on 3 March.

Wattled Lapwing Vanellus senegallus

Seen every day in a variety of habitats.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola

Along the coast from Banjul on 28 Feb., at Fajara on 29 Feb. and twenty along the Gambia river on 4 March.

Ringed Plover Charadrius hiaticula

Seen on four days in small numbers.

Kittlitz’s Plover Charadrius pecuarius

Six at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

White-fronted Plover Charadrius marginatus

One on the beach at Tanji on 29 Feb.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

One along the coast from Banjul on 28 Feb.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

Two along the Bund road on 28 Feb. were the only ones.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

One along the coast from Banjul on 28 Feb. and again at Tanji on 29 Feb.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus

Seen daily in suitable habitat.

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata

One along the coast from Banjul on 28 Feb. and again at Tanji on 29 Feb.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus

Seen on four days in small numbers.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

Four at Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb., two at Darsilami on 2 March and at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

Seen most days in suitable habitat and particularly common on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Singles on four separate days.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

At Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb. and at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleuca

Seen on five separate days.

Ruddy Turnstone Arenaria interpres

On the hard shoulder of the Bund road on 28 Feb., at Tanji an 29 Feb. and up-river on 3 and 4 March.

Sanderling Calidris alba

Twenty along the coast from Banjul on 28 Feb. and 30 at Tanji on 29 Feb.

Little Stint Calidris minuta

Good numbers at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea

One along the Kotu stream on 28 Feb. and 10 at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

Ruff Philomachus pugnax

One at Illiasa marsh on 3 March.

Pomarine Skua Stercorarius pomarinus

Three off Banjul beach on 28 Feb. and a pale bird on the crossing to Barra on 3 March.

Arctic Skua Stercorarius parasiticus

A dark bird off the beach at the Senegambia on 27 Feb. and four off Banjul on 28 Feb.

Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus

An adult flew up-river off the Bund road on 28 Feb. and an adult and second winter bird off Tanji village on 29 Feb (see diary section for i.d. features)

Lesser Black-backed Gull Larus fuscus

Six along the Bund road on 28 Feb., at Tanji on 29 Feb. and on the crossing to Barra on 3 March.

Grey-headed Gull Larus cirrocephalus

Very common and seen every day.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

Off the Bund road on 28 Feb. and at Tanji on 29 Feb.

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica

Seen every day from 28 Feb. to 5 March with a maximum of six on 3 March.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

Seen on 3 separate days with the best numbers on Tanji beach on 29 Feb.

Sandwich Tern Sterna sandvicensis

Seen on five days in small numbers.

Royal Tern Sterna maxima

The commonest large tern seen on six days.

Little Tern Sterna albifrons

A remarkable passage of 600 birds north in an hour off the Senegambia on 5 March.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus

Eight at Illiasa marsh on 3 March were unexpected.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

A winter adult at the Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb., at Illiasa marsh on 3 March and at Tendaba on 4 March.

Four-banded Sandgrouse Pterocles quadricinctus

Seventy to a hundred showed wonderfully well (once we had bribed the locals!) as they came in to drink at a well near Tendaba on the evening of 3 March.

Feral Rock Dove Columba livia

Seen every day from 28 Feb. to 4 March around towns and villages.

Speckled Pigeon Columba guinea

Common and seen every day.

African Mourning Dove Streptopelia decipiens

Seen on five days in small numbers usually in mangrove or other waterside habitats. Has a yellow eye with red-eye ring, grey head and white-tipped tail all of which help to distinguish it from the next species along with its distinctive song and habitat preference.

Red-eyed Dove Streptopelia semitorquata

Very common and seen every day.

Vinaceous Dove Streptopelia vinacea

Common and seen every day.

Laughing Dove Streptopelia senegalensis

Very common and seen every day.

Black-billed Wood Dove Turtur abyssinicus

Common in bush habitats and seen every day from 28 Feb. to 4 March.

Blue-spotted (Red-billed) Wood Dove Turtur afer

Single birds seen at Paradise Inn, Tanji on 29 Feb., at Abuko on 1 March and Marakissa on 2 March.

Namaqua Dove Oena capensis

Single birds on 4 separate days and a pair at Pirang on 5 March.

Bruce’s Green Pigeon Treron waalia

A dozen as we headed up-river on 3 March and again on 4 March.

African Green Pigeon Treron calva

One on the way to Marakissa on 2 March and again on 4 March.

Rose-ringed (Ring-necked) Parakeet Psittacula krameri

Seen on six separate days usually whizzing overhead.

Senegal (Yellow-bellied) Parrot Poicephalus senegalus

Seen on five separate days with a pair at their nest hole at Pirang on 5 March.

Green (Guinea) Turaco Tauraco persa

One at Abuko on 1 March.

Violet Turaco Musophaga violacea

A stunning species. Two at Tanji on 29 Feb. eventually showed well, four at Abuko on 1 March and two at Marakissa on 2 March.

Western Grey Plantain-eater Crinifer piscator

Common and seen every day.

Senegal Coucal Centropus senegalensis

Common and seen every day.

Barn Owl Tyto alba

Two juveniles in a nest under the Marakissa river lodge roof on 2 March and another shown to us by the guard at Pirang on 5 March.

Northern White-faced Owl Ptilopsis leucotis

One roosting high in a tree in the school grounds at Lamin on 1 March.

Verreaux’s Eagle Owl Bubo lacteus

One roosting at Abuko on 1 March.

Pearl-spotted Owlet Glaucidium perlatum

One on the Fajara golf course on 28 Feb.

Long-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus climacurus

One on the Batelling bush track on the night of 3 March.

Mottled Spinetail Telacanthura ussheri

Seen on four separate days in small numbers.

African Palm Swift Cypsiurus parvus

Seen every day from 28 Feb. to 5 March in small numbers.

Little Swift Apus affinis

Seen on five separate days with particularly good numbers at Tendaba on 4 March.

Malachite Kingfisher Alcedo cristata

Two at Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb. and at least 10 on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Blue-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon malimbica

Four on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Striped Kingfisher Halcyon chelicuti

Two at Yundum woods on 1 March and another on the way up-river on 3 March.

Giant Kingfisher Megaceryle maxima

One at Abuko on 1 March, one at Marakissa river lodge on 2 March and two at Tendaba on 4 March.

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

Common and seen every day from 28 Feb. to 5 March.

Little Bee-eater Merops pusillus

Seen on five separate days in small numbers.

Swallow-tailed Bee-eater Merops hirundineus

Two at Tanji on 29 Feb., six at Yundum woods on 1 March and two at Tendaba on 4 March.

European Bee-eater Merops europaeus

Twenty on the way up-river on 3 March and again at Tendaba on 4 March.

Northern Carmine Bee-eater Merops nubicus

Three of this superb species perched up wonderfully on our way up-river on 3 March.

Abyssinian Roller Coracias abyssinica

Seen on five days in small numbers.

Rufous-crowned Roller Coracius naevia

Three on the way up-river on 3 March.

Blue-bellied Roller Coracius cyanogaster

Quite common and seen every day from 28 Feb. to 5 March.

Broad-billed Roller Eurystomus glaucurus

Two in the grounds of the Senegambia hotel on 27 Feb., another at lunchtime there on 28 Feb. and five on 2 March.

Green (Red-billed) Wood-hoopoe Phoeniculus purpureus

Seen every day from 28 Feb. to 5 March in small numbers.

Black (Wood-hoopoe) Scimitar-bill Phoeniculus aterrimus

Two at Bama Kuno on 4 March gave frustratingly fleeting views.

Red-billed Hornbill Tockus erythrorhynchus

Common and seen every day.

African Pied Hornbill Tockus fasciatus

Ten at Brufut on 29 Feb., 15 at Marakissa on 2 March and again on 4 March.

African Grey Hornbill Tockus nasutus

Seen every day from 29 Feb. to 5 March in small numbers.

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill Bucorvus abyssinicus

Eleven on 4 March including nine together at the raptor bridge was exceptional.

Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird Pogoniulus chrysoconus

One at lunchtime at the Senegambia on 28 Feb., at Tanji on 29 Feb. and again in the grounds of the Senegambia on 5 March.

Vieillot’s Barbet Lybius vieilloti

A pair at Tanji on 29 Feb., one on the way up-river on 3 March and one at Tendaba on 4 March.

Bearded Barbet Lybius dubius

Seen on six days with best views being of the birds that came in to roost in the grounds of the Senegambia each evening.

Spotted Honeyguide Indicator maculatus

One of this rare species was attracted to the tape at Marakissa on 2 March.

Greater Honeyguide Indicator indicator

Great views of a male at Brufut on 29 Feb., a female at Marakissa on 2 March and three on 4 March.

Lesser Honeyguide Indicator minor

One at Yundum woods on 1 March and one right above our heads at Marakissa on 2 March.

Fine-spotted Woodpecker Campethera punctuligera

Four around Marakissa on 2 March and another on 3 March.

Cardinal Woodpecker Dendropicos fuscescens

A pair at Brufut on 29 Feb. and two more on 1 March.

Grey Woodpecker Dendropicos goertae

The commonest woodpecker seen on five separate days.

Chestnut-backed Sparrow-lark Eremopterix leucotis

Two males and a female on our way up-river on 3 March.

Crested Lark Galerida cristata

One at Tanji on 29 Feb., two on 2 March and again on 5 March.

Red-chested Swallow Hirundo lucida

The commonest hirundine seen every day from 28 Feb. to 5 March.

Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii

One at Yundum woods on 1 March and two at Pirang on 5 March.

Pied-winged Swallow Hirundo leucosoma

At least one at Yundum woods on 1 March.

Mosque Swallow Hirundo senegalensis

Two at Brufut on 29 Feb. and again on 5 March.

Fanti Saw-wing Psalidoprocne obscura

Four at Brufut on 29 Feb. and two at Abuko on 1 March.

White Wagtail Motacilla alba

Seven birds in total on four separate days.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

An iberiae at Kotu sewage ponds on 28 Feb., a flavissima as we headed up-river on 3 March and an iberiae or flava on the creek-crawl on 4 March. The iberiae bird is distinguished by a white-throat, short supercilium and dark ear-coverts.

Yellow-throated Longclaw Macronyx croceus

Two at Darsilami on 2 March.

Plain-backed Pipit Anthus leucophrys

Four at Darsilami on 2 March and another on 3 March.

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis

One at Brufut on 29 Feb. was the only one.

Common Bulbul Pycnonotus barbatus

Ubiquitous.

Little Greenbul Andropadus virens

At least three at Abuko on 1 March.

Yellow-throated Leaf-love Chlorocichla flavicollis

One seen well at Abuko on 1 March.

Grey-headed Bristlebill Bleda canicapilla

Paul managed to see one of these skulking creatures at Abuko on 1 March.

African Thrush Turdus pelios

Quite common and seen every day.

Singing Cisticola Cisticola cantans

One at Brufut on 29 Feb.

Whistling Cisticola Cisticola lateralis

One at Brufut on 29 Feb. and six at Yundum woods on 1 March.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis

One at Darsilami on 2 March was the only one.

Tawny-flanked Prinia Prinia subflava

Seen on 6 separate days in small numbers.

Red-winged Warbler Heliolais erythroptera

A pair at Brufut on 29 Feb. and six at Yundum woods on 1 March.

Yellow-breasted Apalis Apalis flavida

Six at Abuko on 1 March.

Oriole Warbler (Moho) Hypergerus atriceps

One in the grounds of the Senegambia on 5 March.

Grey-backed Camaroptera Camaroptera brevicaudata

Seen daily from 28 Feb. to 3 March in small numbers.

Melodious Warbler Hippolais polyglotta

One at Tanji on 29 Feb.

(Senegal) Green-backed Eremomela Eremomela pusilla

One at Tanji on 29 Feb., one at Abuko on 1 March., two at Marakissa on 2 March and one at Tendaba on 4 March.

Northern Crombec Sylvietta brachyura

One at Fajara on 28 Feb., one at Brufut on 29 Feb. and another at Abuko on 1 March.

Willow Warbler Phylloscopus trochilus

Two at Tanji on 29 Feb. and one on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita

One at Tanji on 29 Feb. and one at Abuko on 1 March.

Western Bonelli’s Warbler Phylloscopus bonelli

Twenty at Tanji on 29 Feb.

Northern Black Flycatcher Melaenornis edolioides

One at Brufut on 29 Feb. and four at Yundum woods on 1 March.

Snowy-crowned Robin-chat Cossypha niveicapilla

Eight at Abuko on 1 March.

White-crowned Robin-chat Cossypha albicapilla

Daily in the grounds of the Senegambia hotel.

Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe

One in the grounds of the Senegambia on 2 March.

Northern Anteater-chat Myrmecocichla aethiops

Five as we headed up-river on 3 March.

White-fronted Black-chat Myrmecocichla albifrons

A pair at Bama Kuno on 4 March.

Brown-throated (Common) Wattle-eye Platysteira cyanea

A pair at Tanji on 29 Feb. and four at Abuko on 1 March.

Senegal Batis Batis senegalensis

A pair at Tanji on 29 Feb.

African Blue Flycatcher Elminia longicauda

Four on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone rufiventer

Three at the Paradise Inn, Tanji, on 29 Feb., four at Abuko on 1 March and a female at Marakissa on 2 March.

African Paradise Flycatcher Tersiphone viridis

One at Abuko on 1 March.

Blackcap Babbler Turdoides reinwardtii

Daily in the grounds of the Senegambia hotel from 27 Feb. to 1 March.

Brown Babbler Turdoides plebejus

Quite common and seen nearly every day.

White-shouldered Black Tit Melaniparus guineensis

One along the Batelling bush track on 3 March and another at Tendaba on 4 March.

Mouse-brown Sunbird Anthreptes gabonicus

Twenty on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Collared Sunbird Hedydipna collaris

Shirley saw one at Abuko on 1 March.

Pygmy Sunbird Hedydipna platura

A super male as we headed up-river on 3 March and four on 4 March.

Scarlet-chested Sunbird Chalcomitra senegalensis

Seen on four separate dates in small numbers.

Beautiful Sunbird Cinnyris pulchellus

Common and seen every day.

Splendid Sunbird Cinnyris coccinigaster

A male on the Fajara golf course on 28 Feb., more at Tanji on 29 Feb. and again on 1 March.

Variable Sunbird Cinnyris venustus

Two on the Fajara golf course on 28 Feb. and more at Tanji on 29 Feb.

African Yellow White-eye Zosterops senegalensis

One at Marakissa on 2 March was just above our heads but very difficult to see well.

African Golden Oriole Oriolus auratus

Two at the raptor bridge on 4 March.

Yellow-billed Shrike Corvinella corvina

Quite common and seen every day from 28 Feb. to 5 March.

Brubru Nilaus afer

One along the Batelling bush track on 3 March.

Northern Puffback Dryoscopus gambensis

A male and four females/imms. at Marakissa on 2 March.

Black-crowned Tchagra Tchagra senegala

Seen well eventually at Tanji on 29 Feb., and again at Yundum woods on 1 March and Marakissa on 2 March.

Yellow-crowned Gonolek Laniarus barbarus

Common and seen and heard nearly every day.

Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike Malaconotus sulfureopectus

A pair of this stunning species at Tanji on 29 Feb.

Grey-headed Bush-shrike Malaconotus blanchoti

A singing bird was eventually located at Marakissa on 2 March.

White-crested Helmet-shrike Prionops plumatus

Three performed well at Marakissa on 2 March and again at Tendaba on 4 March.

Fork-tailed Drongo Dicrurus adsimilis

Quite common in open bush country and seen daily from 29 Feb. to 5 March.

Piapiac Ptilostomus afer

Common and seen every day including a flock of over 100 along the Kotu stream on 28 Feb.

Pied Crow Corvus albus

Very common and seen every day.

Lesser Blue-eared Glossy Starling Lamprotornis chloropterus

Four as we headed away from Tendaba on 4 March.

Purple Glossy Starling Lamprotornis purpureus

Common and seen every day.

Long-tailed Glossy Starling Lamprotornis caudatus

Common and seen every day.

Yellow-billed Oxpecker Buphagus africanus

Four at Yundum woods on 1 March, 3 on the return from Tendaba on 4 March and one on 5 March.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Seen on four separate days in small numbers.

Grey-headed Sparrow Passer griseus

Seen every day in small numbers.

Bush Petronia Petronia dentata

A pair along the Batelling bush track on 3 March.

White-billed Buffalo Weaver Bubalornis albirostris

Seen every day from 27 Feb. to 4 March.

Chestnut-crowned Sparrow-weaver Plocepasser superciliosus

Two at Brufut on 29 Feb. and another along the Batelling bush track on 3 March.

Black-necked Weaver Ploceus ocularis

Three at Tanji on 29 Feb. and again at Abuko on 1 March.

Village Weaver Ploceus cucullatus

Very common and seen every day.

Black-winged Red Bishop Euplectes hordeaceus

Four at Brufut on 29 Feb. and one at Marakissa on 2 March.

Northern Red (Orange) Bishop Euplectes fransciscanus

Common and seen nearly every day.

Western Bluebill Spermophaga haematina

Maggie got a glimpse of one at Abuko on 1 March.

Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala

Common and seen nearly every day.

Red-cheeked Cordon-bleu Uraeginthus bengalus

Quite common and seen nearly every day.

Lavender Waxbill Estrilda caerulescens

Seen on four separate days in small numbers.

Black-rumped Waxbill Estrilda troglodytes

A flock of twenty at Tendaba on 3 and 4 March.

African Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis

Eleven at Darsilami on 2 March and three at Pirang on 5 March.

African Silver bill Lonchura cantans

Two in the grounds of the Senegambia hotel on 27 Feb. were the only ones.

Bronze Mannikin Lonchura cucullata

Common and seen nearly every day.

Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura

One picked out at Brufut on 29 Feb.

Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus

Eleven in all on three separate days.

Brown-rumped Bunting Emberiza affinus

One heard along the Batelling bush track on 3 March.

;

Mammals

Yellow-winged Bat Lavia frons
Seen flying around the dinner table on most evenings.

Bush Baby sp. Galago sp.

One along the Batelling bush track on the night of 3 March was a real surprise as it bounced up and down in front of us. Not specifically identified but probably Galago senegalensis.

Green Vervet Monkey Circopithecus aethiops

Seen every day in small numbers.

Red Patas Monkey Erythrocebus patas

Two ran way from the bus as we headed up-river on 3 March.

Red Colobus Monkey Colobus badius

Stephanie saw some at Abuko on 1 March.

Marsh Mongoose Herpestes paludinosus

One on the creek-crawl on 4 March.

Rabbit Oryctolagus cuniculus.

One near Marakissa on 2 March must have been an escape from captivity.

Striped (Geoffroy’s) Ground Squirrel Euxerus erythropus
At Abuko on 1 March and on the way up-river on 3 March.

Gambian Sun Squirrel Heliosciurus gambianus

Two at Tanji on 29 Feb.

;

Reptiles & Fish

Agama Lizard Agama agama

Common and seen most days.

Nile Monitor Varanus niloticus

In the Senegambia gardens on 27 Feb. and 2 March.

Mudskipper Periophthalmus koelreuteri

At Lamin Lodge on 1 March and Tendaba on 4 March.

;

Butterflies

The following species were specifically identified during the tour:

Citrus Swallowtail Papilio demodocus

African Monarch (Plain Tiger) Danaus chrysippus

African Migrant (Emigrant) Catopsilia florella

Common Grass Yellow Eurema hecabe

Small Grass Yellow Eurema brigitta

Caper (Brown-veined) White Belenois aurota

Pea Blue Lampides boeticus