Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Trip Report

With three great venues, plenty of good birds, and a congenial group, this year's Limosa Holidays / Field Guides joint Brazil tour was bound to be a lot of fun! And, as ever, each new tour on a familiar itinerary brings new insights. This was Limosa'4th successive trip to Brazil with Jan Pierson, and Field Guides 9th running of this route (eight of them with Jan at the helm), but there were still some surprises to be had.

We always do a 'top three' poll at the end of this tour, and as it always has on this trip, Hyacinth Macaw won again (what is there not to like about seeing 14 of these magnificent birds at once!); coming in second was the wonderful day-roosting Great Potoo that Nancy spotted for us; and in third place, qualifying as honorary bird, was Giant Anteater (hey, with 6 in one day, how could we not include it?!?). But there were plenty of other highlights as well: the amazing Undulated ('frozen' by the fox, how convenient!) and Small-billed Tinamou sightings; the beautiful Bare-faced Curassows; the unexpected Blacksih Rail in the highlands at Itatiaia; the Red-legged Seriemas at their nest, after we had worked so hard; the wonderfully tolerant Sunbittern, preening in the scope for us; the three species of macaws and the various other psittacids seen so well; the day-roosting Common Potoo to add to the Great; the various striking hummers at the feeders at Itatiaia; the cooperative Rusty-breasted Nunlet that allowed us good views of a rather seldom-seen species; our various good woodpecker looks (especially all three piculets, plus those amazing Blond-crested and Pale-crested woodpeckers, and the handsome White-browed and White woodpeckers and amazing Crimson-crested); the fine views of a variety of furnariids, from Chotoy, Rufous-capped, and Rusty-backed Spinetails to Itatiaia Thistletail and White-eyed Foliage-gleaner; a good woodcreeper show (especially the Great Rufous at Caiman and the two scythebills); the ever-wonderful Blue Manakin; a great variety of flycatchers (Streamer-tailed Tyrant is always a highlight!); the diminutive and handsome Black-collared Swallows at Iguaçu; tiny Creamy-bellied and Masked Gnatcatchers; a great tanager show, especially the gaudy Green-headeds, Brassy-breasted and Gilt-edged, but also the unusual Black-goggled, the uniform-yet-elegant and endemic Olive-green, the striking Diademed - and the bonus Brazilian (thanks to Ricardo's Sugarloaf suggestion); and the good variety of mammals, most noteworthy being the amazing 6 Giant Anteaters in one day mentioned above, but also featuring the entertaining Yellow Armadillo at Caiman, the good looks at Titi monkeys at Itatiaia, and the repeated encounters with peccaries.

On the challenging side were the antbirds, which as a group proved to be unusually quiet and uncooperative this year (likely because nesting had started a little earlier than usual and the birds had young in the nest already), though we had very fine looks at some - including Mato Grosso Antbird, Ferruginous Antbird, Rufous-capped Antshrike, Streak-capped Antwren (unusual to see it so well), and others. Also unusual were the extremely dry conditions at Caiman, the result of a nearly two-year drought there; nevertheless, we saw a huge diversity of species, with more than 200 recorded during our stay, though some of the usual roadside puddles and ponds had dried up (and, incredibly, we missed Snail Kite there, though we found it at Iguaçu!). Brazil's always a great place to visit, with its wonderful people, distinctive culture, and great birding throughout (it's vying for top spot among the world's most bird-rich countries). Graham and I would like to thank you all for joining us, and we look forward to seeing you in the field again some time soon!

Day 1. Friday 8th November. The 'British contingent' arrived at Heathrow in goodtime for our overnight flight, which was unfortunately delayed for nearly an hour and a half. Luckily we did manage to get away before the night flight deadline but were still the same time behind schedule on our arrival in Rio the next morning.

Day 2. Saturday 9th November. Jan and the rest of our American colleagues were waiting patiently for us in Rio and we were soon on our way westwards down the highway to Itatiaia. We headed out through the 'favelas' and inner harbour area where the ubiquitous Black Vulture, Great Egrets and sinister Magnificent Frigatebirds were much in evidence along with Greater Kiskadees and Tropical Kingbirds on the roadside wires.

We left the city, entered open country and stopped for a welcome refreshment break at Posto Dominante. Out front were a female Black-throated Mango, the only one of the trip, and an elegant Fork-tailed Flycatcher while overhead both Grey-breasted Martins and Blue-and-white Swallows hawked for insects and were nesting under the café roof. We ventured around to the garden at the back where we had excellent introductory views of some terrific birds - a pair of Green-barred Woodpeckers, a huge Lineated Woodpecker, Streaked Flycatcher, Hooded Siskin and a pair of Burnished-buff Tanagers making light work of a large mango.

On arrival at the Hotel Do Ype we enjoyed a 'churrasco' lunch by the pool and settled in. Black Jacobin, Glittering-bellied Emerald, Violet-capped Woodnymph and White-throated Hummingbird were all evident at the feeders and as spectacular as their names suggested, along with the equally stunning and local Saffron Toucanet. White-collared and the recently re-classified Sick's Swift hunted over the grounds and an invitation to the leaders' rooms gave wonderful views of an obliging Ferruginous Pygmy Owl.

After our much needed rest we headed down the hill towards the 'museum' although we did make an unscheduled stop for a party of inquisitive Brown Capuchin monkeys which Nancy spotted from the bus. Ruby-crowned , Golden-chevroned and the fantastically plumaged Green-headed Tanager all showed very well in a low fruiting tree along with a female Crested Becard. A pair of Plain Antvireos were less photogenic but a Short-crested Flycatcher and a pair of Swallow Flycatchers perched up more prominently and 'not-in-a-hurry' Picazuro Pigeons flapped overhead. The real star however was a magnificent Red-breasted Toucan which provided a fitting climax to our first day before we headed back up the hill where the Dusky-legged Guan reception committee awaited us. (84 species)

Day 3. Sunday 10th November. We were up early for a look around the grounds and were rewarded with a calling Short-tailed Nighthawk and a couple of fleeting views of one flying over the forest. After breakfast we headed downhill to the grounds of the hotel Simon a couple of kilometres below. Long-tailed Tyrant, Grey-capped Tyrannulet and Swallow Tanager all showed well in the gardens along with a stunning pair of Golden-rumped Euphonias at the nest. Brazilian Ruby was particularly approachable at the feeders and Red-rumped Caciques called incessantly from their colony dangling above us.

As we set off up the Treis Picos trail we had our best looks at Maroon-bellied Parakeets and Scaly-headed Parrots zipped overhead. The trail itself was alternatively quiet and exciting as was to be expected in this deep, virgin forest habitat. We hit a purple patch halfway up which gave us terrific views of tiny White-barred Piculets, Grey-hooded Flycatchers and eventually Ferruginous Antbird responded to the tape as well. Tanagers were a common component of any mixed feeding flock with the local Brown and Olive-green tanagers particularly numerous this year along with Magpie, Black-goggled and the very colourful Brassy-breasted and Gilt-edged. Other highlights included Black-throated and the local, yellow-below, race of Surucua Trogon. Woodpeckers were represented by White-spotted and Yellow-browed, both seen very well, secretive furnariids by Rufous-capped Spinetail and Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, cryptic Woodcreepers by Olivaceous, White-throated and Planalto, flycatchers by the strange Large-headed Flatbill and an un-co-operativeAmazonian Royal Flycatcher, euphonias by the elegant Purple-throated and Chestnut-bellied plus the beautiful and slightly larger Blue-naped Chlorophonia and Rufous-crowned Greenlet and Chestnut-crowned Becard both showed well. Scale-throated and Dusky-throated Hermits perched quietly in the forest. Masked Titi Monkeys were to be expected but a lone and plaintive Tufted-eared Marmoset not so.

We arrived back at the Hotel Simon mid-afternoon where a stunning male Frilled Coquette performed briefly above a flowering hedge. Some of us then headed back on the bus but those of us who stayed on for an extra helping were rewarded with a prominently perched Roadside Hawk, a magnificent Yellow-fronted Woodpecker, Pallid Spinetail, a very skulking pair of Star-throated Antwrens lured to the tape, and a silvery male Black-tailed Tityra. (98 species)

Day 4. Monday 11th November. Some of us were up early again but remained frustrated by a calling Barred Forest-Falcon which stayed hidden. Those who had not succumbed to the phantom (and unexpected) tummy-bug then set off for the high altitude track to Agulhas Negras (the Black Needles). Versicoloured Emeralds were at the lower feeders and a combination of Bill's and Richard's observance secured us Crested Black-Tyrant as we climbed back off the highway. Alongside were Yellow-browed Tyrant and Grassland Sparrow, and the first of the Cattle Tyrants which were to be with us for the rest of the trip. We managed to identify Bicustate Swifts from their broken collars as they cruised along at eye-level.

We stopped again soon after we got into the damp forest on the track proper in overcast but dry conditions. Surucua Trogons at this altitude were red-bellied. Rufous-bellied Thrush was numerous along with Plumbeous Pigeons overhead and nervous Golden-crowned Warblers, Thick-billed Saltators and Red-rumped Warbling-Finch. We found a single Variable Antshrike, which gave good views, and a pair of Fawn-breasted Tanagers. Higher again we stopped on a bridge where a monotonous Black-and-gold Cotinga eventually gave good 'scope views along with Yellow-legged Thrush. We were less lucky with Swallow-tailed Cotinga on the way down, with one bird that did not stay on its perch quite long enough for good views! The small marsh a little higher up yielded a very unexpected Blackish Rail, which showed wonderfully well, and the distinctive female Blue-billed Black-Tyrant. Campo Flicker flew alongside the bus before we stopped for lunch by the Hotel Alsende. Velvety Black-Tyrant and Bay-chested Warbling-Finch were both here as we ate our sandwiches in light drizzle which luckily didn't come to much. After lunch the tape really came into its own and gave us stunning views of a pair of Rufous-capped Antshrikes, the endemic Itatiaia Thistletail with its yellow throat, and Chicli Spinetail in quick succession. A little higher up calling Plovercrests were at their lek and, although initially difficult to see, we eventually all had wonderful views of the outrageously-crested males.

On the way back down we stopped alongside a good stand of mature araucarias where Diademed Tanagers were almost embarrassingly common along with Olivaceous Elaenias, a closer Shear-tailed Grey-Tyrant than the one seen earlier and three new Tyrannulets - White-crested, Mottle-cheeked and Planalto. Our final stops on the way back down yielded a brief Crane Hawk over and a White-rimmed Warbler which gave us a bit of a runaround.(114 species)

Day 5. Tuesday 12th November. A female Frilled Coquette early on was welcomed by those who had missed the male earlier. After breakfast we took the short bus ride to the bridge at the bottom of the Jeep trail where a Rufous-thighed Kite perched up prominently and a Sharp-tailed Streamcreeper performed briefly on the big rocks below. We set off up the trail and some of us were lucky to get a quick look at a male Pin-tailed Manakin but a pair of Spot-billed Toucanets were much more obliging for everyone. Other highlights were two close Black-billed Scythebills with their impossible scimitar bills, good looks at male Blue Manakins at last, a high Ochre-faced Tody-Flycatcher, a much lower White-throated Spadebill and both White-browed and White-collared foliage-gleaners. The supporting cast included Lesser Woodcreeper, Yellow-olive and Whiskered flycatchers, a male White-winged Becard, a brief Greenish Schiffornis, Chestnut-vented Conebill, Rufous-headed Tanager, Uniform Finch and Green-winged Saltator. Grey-hoodedAttila, White-shouldered Fire-eye and Drab-breasted Bamboo-tyrant were heard or glimpsed only. A Brown Capuchin threw sticks at us and we were pleased not to meet a huge black and golden toad on our own!

After lunch, and a welcome siesta, we headed out of the park to the open scrubby country at the edge of the town which provided a break from the more intensive jungle birding and where it was much easier for us all to get a look at everything. Smooth-billed Ani, Guira Cuckoo and Chalk-browed Mockingbird were among the typical birds expected in this habitat. A pair of Crested Becards showed well and Masked Water-tyrant and another Yellow-browed Tyrant performed around the barracks although our presence there was frowned upon by a young, inexperienced and officious cadet! A pair of Laughing Falcons (laughing) were treated to a fly-past by a Crested Oropendola before our day was completed with a scarce and exciting Orange-headed Tanager and two Slaty-breasted Wood-rails which walked almost under thebus. (104 species)

Day 6. Wednesday 13th November. Although we'd heard Rufous-capped Motmot most days we finally managed to get a good look at a pair before breakfast this morning thanks to Ann and Dick. An inquisitive South American Coati searched around the bins as we were leaving and at the lower feeder we at last got to grips with a magnificent male Swallow-tailed Hummingbird although it had a strangely deformed bill.

Our final stop in the park gave us a definite Scaled Woodcreeper, two Yellow Tyrannulets, terrific views of a pair of Sepia-capped Flycatchers and the duller Sirystes. We made two stops along the highway to Rio. At the first we had another Swallow-tailed Hummingbird, this time a female, and atthe second a perched Blue-winged Parrotlet, an unexpected Red-cowled Cardinal and a hunting White-tailed Hawk. As we approached the city we again passed through the 'River of January' backwaters, where Neotropic Cormorant, Cocoi Heron, Snowy Egret and Black-crowned Night-heron all showed well from the bus.

We enjoyed a nice buffet lunch and checked into our hotel on the Copacabana for a short rest. The bad weather was still with us (there were only half-a-dozen anglers and 500 feral Rock Doves on the beach rather than the usual inhabitants! - plus a few Brown Boobies offshore) and we made the decision to head for the Sugarloaf which was only partially shrouded as opposed to the Corcovado which was completely hidden in the mist. This proved a good choice as, not only did we get some reasonable views of the city from the top, but the walkway around the base gave us some excellent birds, most of which we saw nowhere else. A Kelp Gull maintained a lonely vigil on a prominent rock, a Spotted Sandpiper hunted on the beach and a Short-tailed Hawk cruised around the imposing volcanic walls. Along the walkway itself were White-tipped Doves, a smart Yellow-lored Tody flycatcher, a male Tropical Parula, a pair of Violaceous Euphonias and a brief Flame-crested Tanager, while the introduced and inquisitive Tufted-eared Marmosets were a constant presence. The highlight was however a quite stunning male Brazilian Tanager which we eventually saw very well tucking into a mango on the fruit feeder bush. To round off the day we enjoyed a superb dinner at the Marius 'churrascaria' with a fast array of buffet dishes plus meats brought to our table, before heading back to the hotel for an all too brief sleep, some of us choosing to promenade along the famous beach although unfortunately in increasing drizzle. (118 species)

Day 7. Thursday 14th November. A very early start this morning to catch our connecting flights to Curitiba and Iguaçu. The two-hour stop-over was at first unwelcome but it did provide us with an opportunity to get the bridge club underway and there were also a few good birds outside around the parking area. A Grey Monjita, perched up on the lamp-posts, was the star attraction with support from a Whistling Heron, White-tailed Kites, Burrowing Owls and a very bright, singing male Saffron Finch.

We arrived at Foz do Iguaçu on time and made a brief stop at a well-stocked gift shop near the Argentine border. Outside three Brazilian Teal and Eared Doves entertained us and the rather protracted negotiations to get us across the border were alleviated by a pair of Chestnut-capped Blackbirds. After taking lunch and settling into the hotel we took a stroll along the lower and uppertrails which followed the edge of the falls. Outrageous Toco Toucans and Plush-crested Jays were in the grounds along with strutty Rufous Horneros and ugly Giant Cowbirds. Great Egrets and Black-crowned Night-herons hunted among the boulders along the river below, Plumbeous Kites cruised overhead and perched up prominently, and Great Dusky Swifts flew, it appeared, right into the falls and dangled from the grassy strips amongst the thundering waters. An Ochre-collared Piculet performed wonderfully, a Greater Ani proved much harder to see well, a Pale-breasted Thrush put in an appearance and Pale-vented Pigeons whizzed overhead. (60 species)

Day 8. Friday 15th November. We spent the morning along the sticky, red Bernabe Mendez trail. Three-striped Flycatchers and Black-crowned Tityra showed well early and a wealth of other species were new along the main trail. These included two Snail Kites over, Rufous-sided Crake heard only although it came very close to the tape, an attractive Dark-billed Cuckoo, a Robust Woodpecker over, Ochre-breasted Foliage-gleaner, Fuscous Flycatcher, Masked Yellowthroat and Blackish-blue Seedeater. Yellow-fronted Woodpecker and Swallow-Tanager also showed very well. After a stop for refreshments we headed off along a side trail where a brief look at Rusty-margined Guan, very good views of Surucua Trogons and a pair of Lineated Woodpeckers, a male Tufted Antshrike buried in a bush, a pair of Rufous-winged Antwrens, Eared Pygmy-tyrant, Creamy-bellied Gnatcatcher and a pair of Guira Tanagers were the highlights.

After lunch we made for the Sendero Macuco, which was disappointingly quiet apart from an unexpected White-bearded Manakin lek and a pair of Chestnut-vented Conebills. Back at the road there were no birds in view at all for a time, which caused us some amusement, but luckily we decided to take a trail through the scrubby area around the old airport. A family party of Red Brocket Deer wandered along the rail-tracks and a Small-billed Elaenia was in the roadside trees before we came across what could only be described as a 'magic bush'. Over a half-hour period this small bush held Lesser Elaenia (maybe new for the park), a Creamy-bellied Thrush, Southern Beardless-Tyrannulet, Bran-coloured Flycatcher, a gorgeous male Chestnut-bellied Seed-finch and up to four Epaulet Orioles! A Yellow-chinned Spinetail performed for the tape and a male Red-crested Finch showed very well on the way back to the hotel. (102 species)

Day 9. Saturday 16th November. Our Jeeps picked us up for the drive out along the Puerto Canoas trail and we soon had stunning views of one of our target species - the outrageous Blonde-crested Woodpecker - with a pair landing in the trees right above us. Our second stop was in hope of a Common Potoo and ace spotter NancyMcMahon soon came up with the goods - with a weird and cryptic bird peering down at us through its eye-slits from its tree-stump roost. We used the tape to try and get a look at Southern Antpipit with only limited success, but had a much better result with Neotropical River Warbler which performed right in front of us. A Slaty-breasted Wood-Rail with young and a Pale-vented Pigeon gave good views halfway along the trail, a Swallow-tailed Kite and a Thrush-like Woodcreeper at the nest showed very well at the end, although a large dark raptor remained frustratingly unidentified.

As the day started to get really hot we took a side trail among clouds of sulphur-yellow butterflies where our target was Spot-backed Antshrike. We eventually all managed to get reasonable views of a bird which spent most of its time hiding in high vine-tangles. After lunch we took the train to the new trail out to the Garganta del Diablo (Devil's throat) on the Argentine side. The kilometre walk across the waters also gave us another Snail Kite and both White-winged and the more local Black-collared Swallows.

In the late afternoon we headed back across the border to Brazil and the pink Hotel das Cataras which we all agreed had much more character than the Sheraton on the Argentine side. (97 species)

Day 10. Sunday 17th November. As we headed out early for the Pouço Preto trail two Crested Caracaras were feeding right alongside the road. Along the trail we called in Rusty-breasted Nunlet right overhead and the large White-eyed Foliage-gleaner. Black-capped Foliage-gleaners in association with Red-crowned Anttanagers were also new, as were Southern Bristle-Tyrants which flew all around us. Better looks at Rufous-winged Antwrens than yesterday and glimpses for some of us only of male Band-tailed Manakin were also to be had. A Scale-throated Hermit and Black-throated Trogons perched quietly in the forest and we took some time to call in another Southern Antpipit, which most of us saw reasonably well - eventually. A Russet-winged Spadebill was also heard well but refused to show itself.

We headed back to the hotel for lunch and a siesta before venturing out along the trail along the falls in the late afternoon. It was a uniquely magnificent spectacle as we passed alongside the smaller falls on the Argentinian side and made it all the way out through the spray to the main fall at the far end. (61 species)

Day 11. Monday 18th November. An extremely early start this morning resulted in a frustrating hour on the tarmac as fog had closed Curitiba airport. Although a decision was taken to fly us directly to Sao Paulo this again changed in mid-air as Curitiba opened. We were therefore very late in arriving at Sao Paulo but were impressed that our connection had been held for us and we were soon on our way to Campo Grande.

The drive to the lunch stop at Posto Pionheiro was uneventful apart from a single Grey Monjita and a few Greater Rheas, but Yellow-chevroned Parakeets were around the restaurant. We turned north at Miranda and soon got into some good birding along the dirt track. A gorgeous Streamer-tailed Tyrant was in the expected place, in association with Black-collared Hawk and American Kestrel. Ruddy Ground-doves and Scaled Doves were disturbed from the track and a small pond held a magnificent and delicately marked Capped Heron and Wattled Jacanas.

We arrived at Pousada Caiman and settled in to the accompaniment of 'clinking' Buff-necked Ibises. We didn't stay in our rooms long as we were all keen to have a look around the grounds. There was a wealth of parrots, with very tame Scaly-headed and Blue-fronted in the garden, and White-eyed, Nanday and Monk parakeets on the grass immediately outside. Stunning White Woodpeckers and Yellow-billed Cardinals, White-headed Marsh-tyrant, Thrush-like Wren, the very dull Purplish Jay, Greyish Saltator, Lined Seedeaters, a flock of Unicoloured Blackbirds and Chopi Blackbird were also in the immediate vicinity. Out on the lake, Roseate Spoonbill, White-backed Stilt and Black Skimmer were a little unexpected, and flocks of Bare-faced Ibises flew over. Our first pair of magnificent Hyacinth Macaws gave a fly-past and landed in a palm, along with subtler but still very impressive Golden-collareds. On the fringes of the lake a herd of eight Capybaras came out to feed along with a single Marsh Deer. (78 species)

Day 12. Tuesday 19th November. We were awakened by our Chaco Chachalaca alarm call and proceeded into the field before breakfast. The big flock of Brown-chested Martins began to leave their radio-mast roost and Rufescent Tiger-Herons showed very well in the small marsh by the bridge along with a male Scarlet-headed Blackbird. A Yellow-billed Tern flew past. A Subtropical Doradito was a major rarity here and would have been entirely unexpected if a previous Field Guides trip had not recorded it already!

After breakfast we headed off in the truck but found it very hard to leave the immediate vicinity due to the vast numbers of new birds! A pair of Red-and-Green Macaws, Peach-fronted Parakeets, a Red-billed Scythebill, Red-crested Cardinal and Campo Oriole were all around the same small paddock, along with a very photogenic pair of Hyacinth Macaws. Once we did manage to get away we soon came across Gilded Hummingbird and Blue-crowned Trogon in the scrubby woodland along with good numbers of migrant Yellow-billed Cuckoos, Rusty-margined Flycatchers at the nest and a perched adult Great Black Hawk. Green and especially Plumbeous Ibises were common in the puddles, and a Savanna Hawk, with its long legs adapted for terrestrial hunting, gave superb views. We stopped at one patch of woodland where the tape really came into its own and we recorded White-winged Piculet, White-lored Spinetail, a pair of magnificent Great Rufous Woodcreepers, Narrow-billed Woodcreeper, male Great Antshrike and Mato Grosso Antbird, Rufous Casiornis, Fawn-breasted Wren, Masked Gnatcatcher and a Solitary Cacique at the nest in very quick succession. We returned for lunch and the first of our long siestas via a Picui Ground-Dove just outside the ranch.

In the late afternoon we set off again to watch the sun go down at Baiazinha Lodge. Pearly-vented Tody-Tyrant proved hard to see well and the Greater Anis started to make a particularly unmusical racket which sounded more insect- than bird-like. Then the tinamous put on their show! First Jan spotted three Undulated Tinamous for which we all had to move around in the bus a bit to get a good look at. They were then spooked by a passing Crab-eating Fox and froze to attention. Once it had passed they celebrated by doing what comes naturally and immediately started mating! No sooner had we left these birds than a tiny Small-billedTinamou hove into view, even closer this time. Not having a partner in the immediate vicinity, it simply burst into song at the top of its voice! Moving on towards the lodge we had great views of a male and female Bare-faced Curassow with their very different plumages, a Bay-winged Cowbird and a couple of elegant Whistling Herons.

At the lodge itself we enjoyed a welcome refreshment and there were good numbers of Black-bellied Whistling-Ducks along with a couple of less common White-faced birds. The huge Ringed and Amazon kingfishers showed well along with a single Green Kingfisher perched up on a stick in the nearest pond. We headed back to Pousada Caiman in darkness. Mammals seen well today included Collared and White-lipped peccaries, Pampas Deer, including a buck in velvet, and a Grey Brocket Deer. (125 species)

Day 13. Wednesday 20th November. Our pre-breakfast stroll this morning gave us a tiny Grey-breasted Crake, which finally approached close to the tape, a Common Tody-Flycatcher and a female Rusty-collared Seedeater. We then headed for the Paizinho bridge where an immature Grey-headed Kite was soaring, another Capped Heron fished quietly and two exotic Boat-billed Herons hid in the bushes. The adjacent woodland held a single Little and two gorgeous Pale-crested Woodpeckers, a pair of Rusty-backed Spinetails, Lesser Kiskadees and Silver-beaked Tanagers, and we had a brief view of a female Blue Ground-dove there just before lunch. In the more open country beyond we came across a pair of Aplomado Falcons and White-rumped Monjitas, along with a Flavescent Warbler attracted to the tape in roadside scrub. The highlight however was undoubtedly a magnificent Giant Anteater with impossibly long snout, tiny head and huge brush-tail which was shuffling across an open field. We were able to approach very closely and many considered it the 'bird of the trip'! We stopped next to a small ma

Annotated Species List

On the list that follows, IT refers to Itatiaia, IF to Iguaçu Falls, and PC to Pousada Caiman in the southern

Pantanal. List total: 415 bird species and 20 mammals. If marked * = heard only, I = introduced, E = endemic

GREATER RHEA (Rhea americana)

Fine looks at these stately creatures at PC, but most fun of all was our sighting of a male attended by close to 20 young ones, probably only a few days old.

BROWN TINAMOU (Crypturellus obsoletus) *

IT and IF, with close ones at the latter, but they wouldn't come out for a look

UNDULATED TINAMOU (Crypturellus undulatus)

What luck at PC! We spotted one from the truck on our way to Baiazinha, stopped, spotted two more, thought we would be frustrated with poor looks, then a Crab-eating Fox appeared nearby, froze one bird in full view, and we ended up watching two of the birds mate! Amazing

SMALL-BILLED TINAMOU (Crypturellus parvirostris)

A great follow-up to our Undulated sighting was a Small-billed right by the roadside; we even got to watch it call. Then a couple of birds near the Paizinho bridge put on a nice show as well, one walking toward Jan, seemingly completely unconcerned...

BROWN BOOBY (Sula leucogaster)

Along the shore in Rio

NEOTROPIC CORMORANT (Phalacrocorax brasilianus)

Rio area, IF, and PC

ANHINGA (Anhinga anhinga)

IF and PC

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATEBIRD (Fregata magnificens)

Rio area

WHISTLING HERON (Syrigma sibilatrix)

Wonderful views of this pastel and lovely heron at PC

CAPPED HERON (Pilherodius pileatus)

Great luck with this sometimes elusive species at PC this year, with good views en route in to the ranch, then more of an individual that was a regular near the Paizinho bridge.

COCOI HERON (Ardea cocoi)

Rio area and PC

GREAT EGRET (Ardea alba)

Widespread on our tour route; most of the birds decorating the distant trees along the Nova Miranda road at PC were probably this species.

SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)

Small numbers in various wet areas along our route SNOWY EGRET (Egretta thula)

CATTLE EGRET (Bubulcus ibis)

Open areas along our route

STRIATED HERON (Butorides striatus)

IF and PC

BLACK-CROWNED NIGHT-HERON (Nycticorax nycticorax)

Rio area and IF, where this species is very common below the falls

BOAT-BILLED HERON (Cochlearius cochlearius)

Vitinho spotted a couple for some nice scope views at PC

RUFESCENT TIGER-HERON (Tigrisoma lineatum)

Great views of many birds at PC

WOOD STORK (Mycteria americana)

Just a few at PC this year due to the drought conditions

JABIRU (Jabiru mycteria)

Wonderful views of this immense bird (Brazil's largest flying bird) at PC; in particular the pair right next to the road on our drive out our last day was spectacular.

PLUMBEOUS IBIS (Theristicus caerulescens)

Fine views (and calls!) of this unusual ibis at PC

BUFF-NECKED IBIS (Theristicus caudatus)

Common at PC, where it also serves as audio alarm clock for those trying to sleep past first light!

GREEN IBIS (Mesembrinibis cayennensis)

A fly-by at IF, then seen very well on several occasions at PC

BARE-FACED (WHISPERING) IBIS (Phimosus infuscatus)

As with Wood Stork, much smaller than normal numbers at PC this year due to the drought conditions

ROSEATE SPOONBILL (Ajaia ajaja)

A small group daily at the margins of the large lake at PC

SOUTHERN SCREAMER (Chauna torquata)

Another immense bird...we saw this one very well perched and in flight at PC

WHITE-FACED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna viduata)

Several small flocks at PC

BLACK-BELLIED WHISTLING-DUCK (Dendrocygna autumnalis)

The common duck at PC

MUSCOVY DUCK (Cairina moschata)

Several at IF were followed by various fine views on our drives at PC

BRAZILIAN TEAL (Amazonetta brasiliensis)

The birds over the wet field near the border at Iguaçu were a bit of a surprise; then we found more at PC, with especially good views of two pairs in the marsh on our drive to Cordilheira via the Retiro Santa Voia road.

BLACK VULTURE (Coragyps atratus)

Widespread

TURKEY VULTURE (Cathartes aura)

Widespread, and all of the South American resident race featuring the prominent white hindneck collar

LESSER YELLOW-HEADED VULTURE (Cathartes burrovianus)

Regular daily at PC, where we had some very nice scope views of its bizarrely colored head

GRAY-HEADED KITE (Leptodon cayanensis)

A young bird at PC at the Paizinho bridge did not show the typical black underwing coverts that are a distinctive feature of this species.

HOOK-BILLED KITE (Chondrohierax uncinatus)

Three sightings at PC, and we finally had a nice flight view our last morning.

SWALLOW-TAILED KITE (Elanoides forficatus)

One flying with some Plumbeous Kites at IF

WHITE-TAILED KITE (Elanus leucurus)

One spotted along our drive between IP and Rio

SNAIL KITE (Rostrhamus sociabilis)

Views of several at IF, which was a good thing, since this normally common PC bird was absent from its regular areas there due to the drought.

RUFOUS-THIGHED KITE (Harpagus diodon)

Several perched birds seen, including one at the falls at IT that showed large white spotting on the upperparts

PLUMBEOUS KITE (Ictinia plumbea)

Common around the Iguaçu area at this season, and a few at PC; a migratory raptor that spends the austral winter in Central America and northern South America.

CRANE HAWK (Geranospiza caerulescens gracilis)

Good scope views of a perched bird at PC; this southern race shows barred underparts and a yellow eye, unlike the unbarred, red-eyed birds from farther north and the blackish birds of northern Central America

GREAT BLACK-HAWK (Buteogallus urubitinga)

Good views of both adult and immature birds at PC

SAVANNA HAWK (Buteogallus meridionalis)

Also good views of this attractive species at PC

BLACK-COLLARED HAWK (Busarellus nigricollis)

And the same for this one, at PC, too... this is largely a fish-eating hawk, thus almost always found near water

ROADSIDE HAWK (Buteo magnirostris)

Widespread and common; the form here is much darker-headed than birds seen in northern South America northward.

SHORT-TAILED HAWK (Buteo brachyurus)

One light-morph bird seen at the park at the base of Sugarloaf in Rio

WHITE-TAILED HAWK (Buteo albicaudatus)

A distant one spotted at our stop en route back to Rio

SOUTHERN CARACARA (Caracara plancus)

A recent split, with the changeover from Crested to Southern taking place in NE Brazil; these southern birds are darker and browner than the northern counterparts; common at PC, and seen several other places along our route.

YELLOW-HEADED CARACARA (Milvago chimachima)

Just a few here and there, and unusually scarce at PC this year

LAUGHING FALCON (Herpetotheres cachinnans)

Scope views of a calling pair below the park entrance at IT

BARRED FOREST-FALCON (Micrastur ruficollis) *

A distant voice on a couple or mornings at IT

AMERICAN KESTREL (Falco sparverius)

Widespread in open areas along our route

APLOMADO FALCON (Falco femoralis)

Great scope views of a pair feeding on a Rufous Hornero at PC... certainly one of the world's classiest falcons.

BAT FALCON (Falco rufigularis)

A fly-over for Bill and Jan at our stop near the border at IF, then some fine views of a pair in the scope at PC, the tiercel (male) tearing apart a freshly captured Barred Antshrike.

CHACO CHACHALACA (Ortalis canicollis)

Abundant at PC

RUSTY-MARGINED GUAN (Penelope superciliaris)

Just a fly-by view of this large guan near the Sheraton at IF

DUSKY-LEGGED GUAN (Penelope obscura)

Very common on the grounds of the Hotel do Ype at IT, and we even saw a few elsewhere away from the Hotel

BLUE-THROATED PIPING-GUAN (Pipile cumanensis)

Nice views of this odd but handsome bird at PC, our first spotted by Dick, followed by several more. The Pantanal birds are actually white-throated and white-wattled.

BARE-FACED CURASSOW (Crax fasciolata)

A couple of pairs seen well, in particular our first sighting as they moved along the forest edge at PC...that female is a stunner!

SPOT-WINGED WOOD-QUAIL (Odontophorus capueira) E

An audio only at IT

LIMPKIN (Aramus guarauna)

Common at PC, and one might think this was Bill's favorite bird of the trip!

RUFOUS-SIDED CRAKE (Laterallus melanophaius) *

Couldn't coax this one out at IT... not quite the right spot!

GRAY-BREASTED CRAKE (Laterallus exilis)

This one we had much better luck with on a couple of mornings at PC, with one of a pair crossing a little open track we had made...a delightful and beautiful tiny rail with an assortment of different calls unmatched by most other rallids.

GRAY-NECKED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides cajanea)

Great views of various pairs at PC

SLATY-BREASTED WOOD-RAIL (Aramides saracura) E

Good views of a pair at the museum at IT, then we found another pair seen well by most at IF

ASH-THROATED CRAKE (Porzana albicollis) *

A voice in the meadow along the Nova Miranda road at PC

BLACKISH RAIL (Pardirallus nigricans)

This was a very nice surprise at Agulhas Negras at IT, with the bird giving some beautiful scope views...a very simple but handsome combination of dark gray, greenish bill, and reddish legs.

SUNBITTERN (Eurypyga helias)

We checked multiple times for this one near the Paizinho bridge at PC, as other visitors had been seeing it, then Vitinho found it for us as we were motmot-watching. Some great scope views of it as it preened and spread its wing several times to expose the amazingly colorful sunburst pattern.

RED-LEGGED SERIEMA (Cariama cristata)

We built up to a fine crescendo on this one...first hearing them only, then finding a frustratingly distant bird in the scope from the truck, then a closer pair, and finally the fabulous pair at the nest along the Nova Miranda road. What a wonderful creature (and certainly one of Jan's favorites along this route)! These birds hunt snakes and large insects and lizards.

WATTLED JACANA (Jacana jacana)

Abundant at PC

WHITE-BACKED STILT (Himantopus melanurus)

Quite common at PC this year, perhaps more easily seen than usual due to the limited water in drought conditions. Split from Black-necked Stilt.

SOUTHERN LAPWING (Vanellus chilensis)

Abundant at PC, and also seen in other open areas along our route

COLLARED PLOVER (Charadrius collaris)

Graham spotted one of these uncommon tropical plovers for some good scope views on our last morning at PC.

GREATER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa melanoleuca)

Fine comparisons with Lessers on our last morning at PC

LESSER YELLOWLEGS (Tringa flavipes)

Small numbers at PC

SOLITARY SANDPIPER (Tringa solitaria)

Common in the roadise puddles at PC

SPOTTED SANDPIPER (Actitis macularia)

One seen along the shore below the Sugarloaf in Rio

WHITE-RUMPED SANDPIPER (Calidris fuscicollis)

A few along the shore of the large lake our last morning at PC offered some good scope views.

PECTORAL SANDPIPER (Calidris melanotos)

Ditto for these, though just two birds at PC

KELP GULL (Larus dominicanus)

A few along the shoreline in Rio

YELLOW-BILLED TERN (Sterna superciliaris)

Just a distant fly-by at the large lake at PC

LARGE-BILLED TERN (Phaetusa simplex)

This one also proved elusive at PC, with one cruising distantly back and forth over the far shore of the large lake one morning.

BLACK SKIMMER (Rynchops niger)

A maximum of 5 on the large lake at PC

ROCK DOVE (Columba livia) I

Common in cities and towns along our route

PICAZURO PIGEON (Columba picazuro)

IT, IF, and PC, with some fairly nice flight views of this very large pigeon

PALE-VENTED PIGEON (Columba cayennensis)

Common as a fly-over at IT, and smaller numbers at PC

PLUMBEOUS PIGEON (Columba plumbea)

Seen quite well at IT, especially at Agulhas Negras, and more seen at IF; unlike most of the other columbirds we saw, this is strictly a forest species.

EARED DOVE (Zenaida auriculata)

Small numbers near the border area at IF; this is the southern representative of the Mourning Dove group

RUDDY GROUND-DOVE (Columbina talpacoti)

Widespread in open areas along our route.

PICUI GROUND-DOVE (Columbina picui)

Good views of a few at PC

SCALED DOVE (Columbina squammata)

Good views of a few at PC

BLUE GROUND-DOVE (Claravis pretiosa)

We saw a female with the maroon wing-bands well at the Paizinho bridge at PC.

LONG-TAILED GROUND-DOVE (Uropelia campestris)

Scope views from the truck gave us some good studies of this diminutive monotypic dove along the Cordilheira road at PC.

WHITE-TIPPED DOVE (Leptotila verreauxi)

Abundant at PC, and we saw a few elsewhere in open and second-growth areas along our route.

GRAY-FRONTED DOVE (Leptotila rufaxilla)

One or two seen briefly in the woods at PC, but mostly an audio.

HYACINTH MACAW (Anodorhynchus hyacinthinus)

Always a daily highlight of our PC visits, but this year the topper was the group of 14 birds feeding on the palm fruits regurgitated by cattle along our drive to Cordilheira one afternoon...what a fabulous sight! The world's largest parrot.

RED-AND-GREEN MACAW (Ara chloropterus)

Some good fly-bys at PC, followed by some wonderful scope views of a perched bird on our seriema search morning.

GOLDEN-COLLARED MACAW (Primolius auricollis)

Fairly common at PC this year, and we had nice scope views of some birds in a tree along the Cordilheira road one day...fabulous small macaws!

BLUE-CROWNED PARAKEET (Aratinga acuticaudata)

The birds in the corral one morning at PC gave us some unusually good views of this species as they foraged on the ground with a couple of White-eyed Parakeets. Huge eyerings on these things!

WHITE-EYED PARAKEET (Aratinga leucophthalmus)

Good views of the couple with the Blue-crowneds at PC; we also had plenty of fly-bys there and at IF.

PEACH-FRONTED PARAKEET (Aratinga aurea)

Uncommon this year at PC; usually one of the more conspicuous parrots there. We had some good scope views.

NANDAY PARAKEET (Nandayus nenday)

Good numbers daily at PC...what a striking bird!

BLAZE-WINGED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura devillei) E

Another very range-restricted species (certainly one of the smaller ranges of any parrot not restricted to an island); we had good studies as several birds perched inside a tree by the road one day.

MAROON-BELLIED PARAKEET (Pyrrhura frontalis)

Common at IT and IF, though they are hard to find perched! We did get some good scope views at IT of these forest-based parakeets.

MONK PARAKEET (Myiopsitta monachus)

Fairly common at PC; we also saw some of the large, bulky stick nests.

BLUE-WINGED PARROTLET (Forpus xanthopterygius)

Small numbers at IT and IF

YELLOW-CHEVRONED PARAKEET (Brotogeris chiriri)

Common at PC; formerly lumped into Canary-winged, but these birds show no white in the wing.

SCALY-HEADED PARROT (Pionus maximiliani)

Common in all three of the main areas on this tour; the birds at PC look very different from those at IT and IF, which lack the obvious, large split eye-ring of the PC birds.

BLUE-FRONTED PARROT (Amazona aestiva)

Abundant at PC, and one rehabilitated bird hanging around the lodge gave us some point-blank photo ops.

YELLOW-BILLED CUCKOO (Coccyzus americanus)

Small numbers of these migrants were present at PC.

PEARLY-BREASTED CUCKOO (Coccyzus euleri) *

Couldn't coax this one out on the Pouço Preto trail at IF

DARK-BILLED CUCKOO (Coccyzus melacoryphus)

We had some terrific views of this skulker at both IF and PC.

SQUIRREL CUCKOO (Piaya cayana)

A few here and there along our route

GREATER ANI (Crotophaga major)

Common at IF and PC

SMOOTH-BILLED ANI (Crotophaga ani)

Everywhere in open areas along our route

GUIRA CUCKOO (Guira guira)

IF and PC, where it is very common, plus in some of the other open areas along our route

STRIPED CUCKOO (Tapera naevia) *

Couldn't manage to spot one of the several birds we heard at IF and PC

FERRUGINOUS PYGMY-OWL (Glaucidium brasilianum)

A pair along the driveway at the IT hotel gave good views, and we saw and heard more at PC, where it is quite common

BURROWING OWL (Athene cunicularia)

Good views at PC, and also seen at IF

GREAT POTOO (Nyctibius grandis)

A great spot by Nancy netted us amazing scope views of one of these at PC near a spot where it nested earlier this year.

COMMON POTOO (Nyctibius griseus)

One on a day-roost that our local guide at IF was familiar with provided more great scope looks.

SHORT-TAILED NIGHTHAWK (Lurocalis semitorquatus nattereri)

Not very vocal or obvious at the Hotel do Ype in IT this year, but those who were out early did see one or two briefly near dawn by the pool several times.

PAURAQUE (Nyctidromus albicollis)

Small numbers on our night drives at PC

GREAT DUSKY SWIFT (Cypseloides senex)

Abundant at IF, where we watched one bird on a probable nest, and others clinging to rock faces by the falls and flying into grassy patches in breaks in the rushing waters.

WHITE-COLLARED SWIFT (Streptoprocne zonaris)

Some good fly-over views of this large swift at IT

BISCUTATE SWIFT (Streptoprocne biscutata)

We saw a few of these at IT as well, where careful watching showed the broken collar characteristic of this species which is otherwise very similar to White-collared.

SICK'S SWIFT (Chaetura meridionalis)

The common small swift at IT and IF; formerly known as Ashy-tailed Swift, but with the discovery that the type specimen of that species was actually a Vaux's Swift, that name (and its scientific counterpart, C. andrei) disappears and the Brazil birds become Sick's Swift.

SCALE-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis eurynome) E

Several views of this large hermit at IT (and probably some of the fly-by hermits at IF were this species)

PLANALTO HERMIT (Phaethornis pretrei)

Hard to find this year. A few folks saw this species at the Hotel do Ype at IT and saw another briefly on our day on the Treis Picos trail.

DUSKY-THROATED HERMIT (Phaethornis squalidus squalidus)

On our walk on the Treis Picos at IT we found a male calling on a perch inside a trailside bush

SWALLOW-TAILED HUMMINGBIRD (Eupetomena macroura)

The feeder at the small store lower down in IT produced some terrific looks at this amazing hummer for us; also seen at our stop en route to Rio.

BLACK JACOBIN (Melanotrochilus fuscus) E

Very common at IT

WHITE-VENTED VIOLET-EAR (Colibri serrirostris)

Just one this year, seen briefly by a few of us as it buzzed the group on our Agulhas Negras day

BLACK-THROATED MANGO (Anthracothorax nigricollis)

A female at our drink stop on our first day

PLOVERCREST (Stephanoxis lalandi) E

This tiny endemic has a very limited range also; we scoped a perched, calling male at the loose lek at Agulhas Negras at IT... what an amazing little bird.

FRILLED COQUETTE (Lophornis magnificus) E

A male briefly seen at the Hotel Simon, then we had a close female at the Hotel do Ype feeders at IT.

GLITTERING-BELLIED EMERALD (Chlorostilbon aureoventris)

Quite common in the forest at IT and IF

VIOLET-CAPPED WOODNYMPH (Thalurania glaucopis) E

Common at the hotel feeders and in the forest at IT... what beautiful color on the crown!

GILDED HUMMINGBIRD (Hylocharis chrysura)

Often the only hummer we see at PC, and this year was no different; a singing male gave us great scope views our first morning there.

WHITE-THROATED HUMMINGBIRD (Leucochloris albicollis)

This striking species was a regular at the feeders at IT.

VERSICOLORED EMERALD (Agyrtria versicolor)

This dull hummer, with very few field marks, was regular in small numbers at the feeders at IT. Most illustrations don't depict the bluish wash on the throat.

BRAZILIAN RUBY (Clytolaema rubricauda) E

Oooh...what a beauty, and we had fantastic views of males and females at the feeders at IT.

BLACK-THROATED TROGON (Trogon rufus)

Seen nicely on the Treis Picos trail at IT

SURUCUA TROGON (Trogon surrucura) E

Also seen very well at both IT and IF. At IT we saw orange-bellied birds (with orange eyerings) low in the park, and a red-bellied male (with red eyering) along the Agulhas Negras road. All the birds at IF are red-bellied with red eyerings.

BLUE-CROWNED TROGON (Trogon curucui)

Great looks at various birds at PC (yellowish eyerings, and the orangey-red belly is separated from the dark throat by an irregular white band (lacking in Surucua). Of course, the tail is barred too!

RINGED KINGFISHER (Ceryle torquata)

IF and PC

AMAZON KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle amazona)

IF and PC

GREEN KINGFISHER (Chloroceryle americana)

PC

BLUE-CROWNED MOTMOT (Momotus momota)

Our prelude to the great view of the Sunbittern was our find of this striking bird in the woods near the Paizinho bridge at PC.

RUFOUS-CAPPED MOTMOT (Baryphthengus ruficapillus) E

After hearing several birds here and there, we had some nice views of a calling pair just below the Hotel do Ype at IT. This one has no rackets in the tail.

SPOT-BACKED PUFFBIRD (Nystalus maculatus)

What a great bird, reptilian eye and great big red bill! We saw this one beautifully in the scope along the Nova Miranda road on our seriema morning.

RUSTY-BREASTED NUNLET (Nonnula rubecula)

Seeing this canopy species so well was a pleasant surprise along the Pouço Preto trail at IF, and we heard a second one later that morning. Not rare, but most often very inconspicuous as it doesn't call much and sits motionless high in the trees for long periods.

CHESTNUT-EARED ARACARI (Pteroglossus castanotis)

A few each at IF and PC

SAFFRON TOUCANET (Baillonius bailloni) E

Great views of this bizarre-looking toucan at IT, the only one in its genus

SPOT-BILLED TOUCANET (Selenidera maculirostris) E

A pair seen fairly well above the falls at IT, then another heard at IF

RED-BREASTED TOUCAN (Ramphastos dicolorus) E

Fairly common by sight and voice at IT

TOCO TOUCAN (Ramphastos toco)

Great views of this classic clown-faced toucan at both IF and PC. We saw various individuals being chased away by smaller birds, whose eggs and nestlings are often the target of these predatory birds.

WHITE-BARRED PICULET (Picumnus cirratus) E

We had nice looks at all three species of piculets on our tour, one in each area: White-barred at IT,

Ochre-collared at IF, and White-wedged at PC.

OCHRE-COLLARED PICULET (Picumnus temminckii) E

WHITE-WEDGED PICULET (Picumnus albosquamatus)

WHITE WOODPECKER (Melanerpes candidus)

Probably better placed in its own genus Leuconerpes, this wonderful bird put on a nice show near the lodge for us our first day at PC. Several others seen on other days there.

YELLOW-FRONTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes flavifrons) E

Seen well at IF and IT

WHITE-FRONTED WOODPECKER (Melanerpes cactorum)

We had great luck in finding this woodpecker near the lodge at PC...often a tough bird to see on this tour as it is uncommon and not very vocal.

LITTLE WOODPECKER (Veniliornis passerinus)

A couple at PC

WHITE-SPOTTED WOODPECKER (Veniliornis spilogaster) E

Seen well at IT and heard again at IF

YELLOW-BROWED WOODPECKER (Piculus aurulentus) E

One seen on the Treis Picos trail at IT

GREEN-BARRED WOODPECKER (Colaptes melanochloros melanochloros)

One our first day, then another at IF and daily at PC

CAMPO FLICKER (Colaptes campestris)

Pale-throated birds at IF and black-throated birds at IT and PC

PALE-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Celeus lugubris)

Fine looks at a male near the Paizinho bridge at PC

BLOND-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Celeus flavescens) E

A wonderful view of a pair, especially one creeping along the high mossy limbs of the tree along the river at IF.

LINEATED WOODPECKER (Dryocopus lineatus)

One at our drink stop en route to IT our first day, then a couple more at IF

ROBUST WOODPECKER (Campephilus robustus) E

Heard at IT, then a male flew by on the Argentine side of IF for a reasonably good view of the back pattern

CRIMSON-CRESTED WOODPECKER (Campephilus melanoleucos)

Great views of a female our last morning at PC

PALE-LEGGED HORNERO (Furnarius leucopus)

Far less common than Rufous at PC, and always tied to water; we had fine views of several birds our next-to-last morning near the Paizinho bridge.

RUFOUS HORNERO (Furnarius rufus)

Abundant at PC, where every other bird seems to be this species, and also a few elsehwere in open areas along our route.

CHOTOY SPINETAIL (Schoeniophylax phryganophila)

We found a pair of this attractive small spinetail at its nest in the Monk Parakeet colony along the Cordilheira road at PC.

CHICLI SPINETAIL (Synallaxis spixi)

Seen fairly well on our Agulhas Negras day at IT; also known as Spix's Spinetail

RUFOUS-CAPPED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis ruficapilla) E

Good looks at this attractive skulker at IT and heard again at IF

WHITE-LORED SPINETAIL (Synallaxis albilora)

A pair of these played out into the open edge very well our first full morning at PC, then we heard more pairs daily there.

PALLID SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca pallida) E

Showed well a couple of times, especially on our Agulhas Negras day

OLIVE SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca obsoleta) E

One seen at IF

RUSTY-BACKED SPINETAIL (Cranioleuca vulpina)

A very responsive pair put on a nice show, displaying energetically near the Paizinho bridge at PC.

YELLOW-CHINNED SPINETAIL (Certhiaxis cinnamomea)

Seen well first at IF, then more seen at PC

ITATIAIA THISTLETAIL (Oreophylax moreirae) E

Terrfic close looks at this range-restricted endemic (even its tiny orange chin) in the high open shrubby areas at Agulhas Negras at IT

COMMON THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus rufifrons)

Not so common! These southern birds show rufous foreheads, unlike the birds from Venezuela and elsewhere farther north; all three disjunct South American populations should probably be split. We finally found a pair for good views at PC, after seeing dozens of nests.

GREATER THORNBIRD (Phacellodomus ruber)

A pair of these larger thornbirds were attending their bulky stick nest atop the utility pole outside the lodge at PC, showing the golden eye well.

GRAY-CRESTED CACHOLOTE (Pseudoseisura unirufa)

Several views at PC of this large furnariid, recently split into two species (formerly Rufous and now Gray-crested and Caatinga). Our best were at the nest under construction near the Paizinho bridge.

STREAKED XENOPS (Xenops rutilans)

A couple at IT

WHITE-BROWED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Anabacerthia amaurotis) E

One at IT

BUFF-BROWED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Syndactyla rufosuperciliata)

One seen briefly and another couple heard at IT

BUFF-FRONTED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor rufus)

The commonest of the foliage-gleaners at IT, and we saw it well on several occasions. Remarkably similar to Brown Tanager in appearance, though you wouldn't guess it from the illustrations.

OCHRE-BREASTED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor lichtensteini) E

The common foliage-gleaner at IF

BLACK-CAPPED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Philydor atricapillus) E

Several seen quite well in vine tangles along the Pouço Preto road at IF

WHITE-COLLARED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Anabazenops fuscus) E

Heard regularly in the bamboo at IT, and we finally caught up with some nice looks for all toward the end of our stay there. This specialist is responsible for many of the rectangular chiseled holes in tall bamboo stalks in the park.

WHITE-EYED FOLIAGE-GLEANER (Automolus leucophthalmus) E

Remarkably good views of a very cooperative bird along the Pouço Preto road at IF. With its bright throat and bluish eye, this is a very attracive furnariid, though it is often very difficult to pull out into the open.

RUFOUS-BREASTED LEAFTOSSER (Sclerurus scansor) E *

Just a few call notes were all we heard in response to playback along the Pouço Preto road at IF... usually much more responsive!

SHARP-TAILED STREAMCREEPER (Lochmias nematura nematura)

One bird seen fairly well, if somewhat briefly, as it foraged along the rocks at the waterfall along the main park road at IT.

THRUSH-LIKE WOODCREEPER (Dendrocincla turdina) E

We had a couple of good sightings of this unicolored species at IF, including one coming to a large hole-nest in a stump that Paul spotted. A split from Plain-brown to the north.

OLIVACEOUS WOODCREEPER (Sittasomus griseicapillus sylviellus) E

Common at IT and IF. This widespread species is a well-known candidate for a future split into several species, as different populations from Mexico to Argentina not only look quite different but sound very different.

WHITE-THROATED WOODCREEPER (Xiphocolaptes albicollis) E

Heard daily at IT from the Hotel at dawn, and at least some of us saw a couple before breakfast from the poolside on several days.

GREAT RUFOUS WOODCREEPER (Xiphocolaptes major)

Fantastic looks at two or three birds our first morning at PC...what an amazing and powerful-looking woodcreeper! A close relative (vocally, at least) of Strong-billed and White-throated woodcreepers.

PLANALTO WOODCREEPER (Dendrocolaptes platyrostris)

IT (where one bird came every day at dawn to catch moths by the feeders and lights) and PC

NARROW-BILLED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes angustirostris)

The common small woodcreeper of PC

SCALED WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolaptes squamatus squamatus) E

A few seen here and there at IT

LESSER WOODCREEPER (Lepidocolap

;

TUFTED-EAR MARMOSET (Callithrix jacchus)

The individual we saw at IT (JP's first there) appeared to be of the subspecies auritus, which may be native; the various ones we saw at the park at the base of the Sugarloaf in Rio were of the subspecies ___ from NE Brazil, introduced to Rio.

MASKED TITI MONKEY (Callicebus personatus) E

We did very well to see several so well at IT...often only a voice in the forest there! This is the one with the non-prehensile tail.

BLACK HOWLER MONKEY (Alouatta caraya)

All of us heard these every morning at PC, and part of our group had some nice looks at a male and female in the woods along the road to Cordilheira. The only howler showing such strong sexual dimorphism in pelage.

BROWN CAPUCHIN (Cebus apella)

Seen at all three main venues

GIANT ANTEATER (Myrmecophaga tridactyla)

We were delighted with our fine views of one animal near Ronald's House at PC. Then we were simply amazed the next day, after heavy rain overnight, to spot SIX individuals here and there during our seriema drive... your guides thought we were lucky to see one (we have missed it at PC on occasion)! What a wonderful creature!!

SIX-BANDED ARMADILLO (Euphractus sexcinctus)

Aka Yellow Armadillo. This is the species of which one seemingly oblivious individual entertained us briefly outside the lodge before one of our afternoon outings, and which we originally called seven-banded. What a face! Though called six-banded, it appears more like seven- or eight-banded sometimes; the snout and ears, though, are much shorter than in those other armadillos of the genus Dasypus.

GUIANAN SQUIRREL (Sciurus aestuans)

A regular at IT

GUINEA PIG (Cavia aperea)

Aka Wild Cavy; these are the cute, small animals we saw on the hotel grounds at the Sheraton at IF, most likely the wild progenitors of the petshop guinea pigs...

CAPYBARA (Hydrochaeris hydrochaeris)

Daily at PC; the largest rodent, fully adapted for life in the water with nostrils, eyes, and ears set high on the head.

AZARA'S AGOUTI (Dasyprocta azarae)

Singles here and there at IF and PC

CRAB-EATING FOX (Cerdocyon thous)

We saw quite a few of these at PC, but the best had to be the one that appeared in the background of our binoculars as we were watching the Undulated Tinamou, which then froze in position for some truly great views! Thanks, fox!

SOUTH AMERICAN COATI (Nasua nasua)

All three venues, and some very cute little ones along the walkway down the Brazilian side at IF

TAYRA (Eira barbara)

One of these large and aggressive weasels ran across the road quickly at Agulhas Negras, in view of some folks, then another made a brief appearance ahead of us during one of our drives at PC.

WILD BOAR (Sus scrofa)

Several of these seen at PC, particularly near Cordilheira lodge

COLLARED PECCARY (Tayassu tajacu)

We had great luck with good views of both peccaries. This species usually shows up as singles or just 2 or 3 animals together, while the White-lipped are very gregarious and can appear in groups of more than 50 animals together (we saw a max of about 30 in one group).

WHITE-LIPPED PECCARY (Tayassu pecari)

MARSH DEER (Blastocerus dichotomus)

PAMPAS DEER (Ozotoceros bezoarticus)

The smaller of the two deer seen well at PC, this one without the black legs and with a maximum of 3 points on each antler; the Marsh Deer is quite a bit larger, has obvious black legs when seen well, and a much larger and more complex rack.

RED BROCKET DEER (Mazama americana)

One seen along the track near the guardaparque house at IF on the Argentine side.

BROWN BROCKET DEER (Mazama gouazoubira)

Aka Gray Brocket Deer; we spotted one for good views from the truck at PC.

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Other interesting sightings:

? A very large tarantula at PC

? A couple of different species of apparent Bothrops pit vipers at PC, including one with a black-and-white

'piano keys' pattern on the underside

? Several of the large land tortoises known from PC

? The huge and boldly patterned toad along the road above the waterfall at IT

? Several of the very large Tegú lizards at all three main sites

? An amazing display and diversity of butterflies at various sites near IF...certainly one of the best tropical

areas to see lepidopterans, especially sulfurs, malachites, and eighty-eights.