Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Trip Report

As Limosa's first ever tour to combine Taiwan and Hong Kong, expectations were high as these two destinations are home to some of Asia's most enigmatic, sought-after and endangered birds. Unfortunately, due to the outbreak of Severe Acute Respiratory Syndrome (SARS), which appeared to be spreading in an uncontrolled manner through Hong Kong, some participants decided to drop out of the tour at the last minute, before it departed the UK. Others continued on, not least because of the great birds in prospect, but also because H.M. Government had yet to issue a travel advisory against travel to Hong Kong. While we were in Taiwan, however, such an advisory was issued, leaving us with the option of returning home four days early, or spending the extra time in Taiwan in search of the wetland birds we would otherwise miss out on in Hong Kong. The decision was made to remain in Taiwan and excellent use was made of these additional days, during which we searched for migrating shorebirds in the southwest of the island, and passerines on the north coast, near Taipei. Since migration through Taiwan is poorly documented, we had little idea of what to expect. Our results suggest that time spent here could reap further dividends ? but the discovery of 2 Chinese Crested Terns - the world's rarest tern and indeed one of the rarest birds in the world ? exceeded our wildest dreams!

Day 1. Saturday 29 March. After meeting with Anne and Richard at Heathrow, we departed on time for Hong Kong's Chek Lap Kok, and spent an uneventful 11 hours en-route.

Day 2. Sunday 30 March. With a couple of hours to wait until our connecting flight to Taipei departed, we scanned the airport for birds, but to no avail. Chek Lap Kok was birdless and our Hong Kong list stood at zero as we departed for Taipei. On our arrival at Taipei's Chiang Kai Shek airport, two old friends, Lin and Charles, who were to accompany us for the next 13 days in Taiwan, greeted us. Arriving so early meant the hotel rooms were not yet ready so, following our introduction to the delights of Chinese cuisine, we headed off to Sansia for some light afternoon birding, seeing several Little Egrets en-route. Set in low wooded hills on the southern outskirts of Taipei, Sansia is a convenient place to familiarise yourself with some of Taiwan's commoner birds. The ubiquitous Chinese Bulbul headed the list of familiar species, followed by several Black Bulbuls, a small party of Grey-chinned Minivets and a couple of Collared Finchbills. The monotonous calls of Black-browed Barbets resonated all around us and several birds were eventually seen well, while a singing Oriental Cuckoo showed well as it perched on an overhead wire. Many birds giving new and unfamiliar songs hid deep within cover and refused to give themselves up, including several Chinese Bamboo Partridges. A couple of Oriental Honey-buzzards flew overhead followed by a small party of needletails that remained too distant to be identified. Shortly afterwards, a Crested Goshawk appeared over the hills followed by closer views of a perched immature bird. Here, we also picked up our first endemic species, Formosan Whistling Thrush, which sat conveniently atop a electricity pole allowing good 'scope views. With dusk approaching we returned to Taipei and checked into the Grand Hotel where Kay, our third participant, was waiting for us.

Day 3. Monday, 31 March. A lie in! Today's star attraction was to be found in Taipei's Botanical Gardens. At dawn, these gardens are crowded with thousands of people performing the ancient martial art of Tai Chi, and making birding all but impossible. But, by 8 AM, the crowds dissipate and the place is left to the birds, the birders and a manageable number of locals. We quickly found our first Malayan Night Heron feeding quite unconcerned just 10 meters from us close to the path, and a nest was pointed out with a bird sitting on it, again quite close to the path. Eventually, we located six individuals and another occupied nest. We also discovered just what these amazing birds feed on. One individual found an earthworm and was tugging it from the ground. But, this was no ordinary worm, and certainly far from an uneven contest. The night heron tugged for all it was worth, and the worm, at probably 18 inches in length and half an inch in diameter hung on tight and refused to budge. It was almost up to the challenge, but not quite. Eventually the worm conceded defeat, was decapitated and quickly swallowed. Black-browed Barbets, Black-crowned Night Herons, and Japanese White-eyes gave close-up views, a tail protruding from a nest was, we were assured, attached to a Crested Goshawk, and an Arctic Warbler, presumably a migrant, was a pleasant surprise. Much of the remainder of the day was taken up with the drive to Anmashan where we were to spend the next three nights. On the way, we encountered our first Brown Shrike, along with numerous Red Turtle Doves, Spotted Doves, House Swifts and Pacific Swallows. On reaching the township of Tung Shih, we started to climb into the hills, taking several short birding breaks as we ascended from the warm, humid lowlands into the cooler and more pleasant forested hills. Of the many new birds we encountered as we climbed, the highlights included a pair of White-bellied Green Pigeons that sat in the open allowing prolonged views, a couple of Rufous-faced Warblers, a male White-tailed Robin, three Streak-breasted Scimitar Babblers bathing in a small stream, several Grey-cheeked Fulvettas, plus several White-eared Sibias and Formosan Yellow Tits, two of Taiwan's most attractive endemics. We arrived at our hotel in time to hear a Taiwan Bush Warbler in full song immediately behind our accommodation.

Day 4. Tuesday 1 April. We awoke to heavy rain and swirling mist that persisted for much of the morning. Birds were understandably subdued and in the gloomy half-light, appeared as silhouettes. But, as the light improved, birds gradually appeared, and shortly after breakfast, in a small patch of cultivation opposite the restaurant, several Steere's Liocichlas were found, followed by a White's Thrush, two Pale Thrushes, a Red-flanked Bluetail and a singing White-tailed Robin. Nothing quite like a few Sibes to get the old juices flowing! The remainder of the morning was spent birding along Track 210, the best of Anmashan's broad jeep tracks. This year, however, contractors were working somewhere up the trail and their disturbance ruined our chances of any pheasants here. Undeterred, we started to round up Taiwan's many hill birds and during the course of the morning we found four Ashy Wood Pigeons, another White's Thrush, female Snowy-browed Flycatcher, a pair of Vivid Niltavas, numerous White-eared Sibias, several parties of Formosan Yuhinas, Black-throated and Green-backed Tits, Eurasian Nutcracker and a couple of Brown Bullfinches. With slightly improved conditions after lunch, we decided to try for some of the higher elevation specialities, in case the weather did not improve later. Birding near Track 230, we found an extremely tame Formosan Laughingthrush that demanded to be fed, followed by a pair of stunning Collared Bush Robins which flicked on and off the track and eventually gave good views. Several Yellowish-bellied Bush Warblers pished nicely into view and a Eurasian Nutcracker put in an appearance. And then there was the Flamecrest, just the one, but what a bird! Accompanied by a pair of Coal Tits, this stunning little mite did not like my rendition of a Collared Owlet and went barmy, coming to within 4 meters of us. All in all, a good day, better than we could have thought possible given the weather, and we hoped for fairer conditions tomorrow.

Day 5. Wednesday 2 April. Although still overcast, the rain had stopped and the mist had cleared, or perhaps more aptly, had descended, for below us lay a sea of cloud. The day started well with a pair of White-backed Woodpeckers hopping about in a tree outside our rooms. Here they remained for several minutes giving nice 'scope views and were joined by the distinctive local race of Eurasian Jay. With improved conditions we headed for the Mountain Trail, which had held both endemic pheasants last year. This year it was not to be, but by means of compensation, we found several White's Thrushes along the trail, taped-lured out White-browed Shortwing and Pygmy Wren Babbler and found a couple of Formosan Barwings. With weather conditions continuing to improve we returned to Track 210 and found it much birdier than the previous day, but still subject to much disturbance. Many of the previous day?s birds were again found but in greater abundance. In the afternoon we walked a couple of miles along Track 220, reputedly also good for pheasants. An Oriental Honey-buzzard showed well overhead, the first raptor we has seen during our stay at Anmashan. A small party of the ever-elusive Rufous Laughing-thrushes showed well, but briefly, before resuming their typical lurking behaviour. Rufous-faced Warblers were one of the highlights this afternoon, with several birds feeding on the track in front of us, allowing us our best views yet of this delightful little sprite. A female Vinaceous Rosefinch hopped along the path in front of us while a party of Brown Bullfinches showed well, but briefly, in the treetops before continuing on their way. Brownish-flanked Bush Warblers sang from deep within cover and really did not want to show themselves, parties of Formosan Yuhinas responded well to the owlet whistle and once wound up, would attract in other species, typically including Black-throated, Green-backed Tits but at one point were joined by a couple of Formosan Yellow Tits that showed very nicely. Finally, Kay discovered a small burrowing snake in the path that allowed itself to be handled, manipulated and photographed before continuing on its way. With a fine evening in prospect we opted for a session of night birding, or rather night mammaling, for within 30 minutes we had seen three White-faced Flying Squirrels, undoubtedly the most amazingly cute creature on the planet. Birds though were almost non-existent, with only a very distant Mountain Scops Owl breaking the silence.

Day 6. Thursday 3 April. During a brief pre-departure session around the hotel, we relocated a pair of Snowy-browed Flycatchers that Richard had found the previous day. In continually improving weather, we descended to Tung Shih. A calling Large Hawk Cuckoo was the only one we recorded but it remained distant and impossible to find. As we ventured lower Crested Serpent Eagles and Crested Goshawks started to appear on the rising thermals, with several of the former circling low over the road. Following an early lunch at Tung Shih, we drove south to Puli, pausing briefly at a bridge over a small river that held Plain Martins, Yellow-bellied and Plain Prinias, plus large numbers of Little and Cattle Egrets. Next, we stopped in the small town of Ta Pin, to the north of Puli, where Striated Swallows were nesting on roadside houses. Being so accustomed to people, they were fearless and perched over the road. Through the 'scope at 15 meters, it was possible to check and double-check all the features that separate this species from the very similar Red-rumped swallow. Although I must admit to being somewhat sceptical when seeing distant birds in flight, at rest there was no doubt, all these birds were certainly Striated Swallows. As yet, Red-rumped Swallow has not been recorded from Taiwan, but must surely occur as it breeds in nearby Japan. On reaching Puli, we were joined by Mr Tsai and his wife, who had volunteered to guide us around Puli and Wushe. Soon after meeting them, we were off in Mr Tsai's MPV dashing from spot to spot in the agricultural lowlands surrounding Puli. In no time at all, we added a male Greater Painted-snipe to our list, followed by a female that ran along the lines of newly-planted rice, giving great views while believing it was hidden from view. Nearby, Oriental Turtle Doves, Yellow and Pied Wagtails, Green Sandpiper, Oriental Skylark, Black-faced Bunting, Vinous-throated Parrotbill and Zitting Cisticola were quickly added to our tally. Next came a male Bright-capped Cisticola that treated us to a prolonged display flight before landing directly in front of us on a small stick, giving great views of this usually elusive bird, in its bright nuptial plumage. Our final stop of the day was the range of low-forested hills that we had visited last year. Here we quickly found three Grey-capped Woodpeckers, a pair of Bronzed Drongos building a nest and a pair of Black-naped Monarchs that put in a brief appearance. In the fading light, an Emerald Dove lowed quietly in the distance. For a finalé, Mr Tsai took us to look for Savanna Nightjar, a locally distributed species in Taiwan. As we got out of the car, we flushed a Barred Button Quail, and soon after heard the distinctive call of the nightjar as a male flew past giving nice views. That night we had dinner in Puli before driving to our hotel at Wushe.

Day 7. Friday 4 April. We awoke to a very wet morning, which would undoubtedly make finding pheasants somewhat tricky. Following breakfast, we drove to Tsuifeng and attempted to walk the Blue Gate Trail. It was, however, badly flooded and the only option lay in driving along it. Kay wisely cut her losses at this point and returned to the hotel with Charles. The rest of us, with Lin, drove the trail in the pouring rain and failed to see a single bird! On reaching the road, we decided to drive along the appropriately named Continuation Trail. All went well for the first couple of km. until we reached a section where the road had been washed away. Charles, following behind, then radioed to say a fallen tree blocked the road behind us. This turned out to be no sapling. A forest giant had come down and the two tonne winch on the Isuzu FWD would not budge it. Fortunately, Charles FWD was on the right side of the tree so he and Lin along with Mr Tsai & wife went off to summon assistance, taking Anne with them while Richard & I girded our loins and marched off down the Blue Gate Trail in search of pheasants. In the torrential downpour that followed, we saw nothing and got thoroughly soaked, while Anne enjoyed an informative tour of the nearby Agricultural Research Station! On reassembling at 11:00 we decided to return to the hotel to dry out, while help was on its way to shift the fallen tree. Two hours later, the chaps re-appeared complete with trapped Isuzu, making birding possible again. Unfortunately, the torrential rain thwarted our best efforts and the afternoon, which we had intended to spend on Bei Dong Yen Shan, was spent waiting for the weather to clear, which it failed to do. So, what did we see? Four White's Thrushes flashed off the Blue Gate Trail - seen for just long enough to identify them - and a Ferruginous Flycatcher in the hotel parking lot were the highlights of a damp and dreary day.

Day 8. Saturday 5 April. A dawn start revealed the rain had stopped and the cloud had lifted (or descended) so we were birding again. Last year, we discovered the scrub-covered hillside next to the hotel to be a haven for birds and so it proved to be again this year. A pair of Chinese Bamboo Partridges walking through the hotel grounds got us off to a good start. This was quickly followed by a couple of Brown-headed Thrushes, several Oriental Turtle Doves and an Olive-backed Pipit. Next came an Eyebrowed Thrush sitting on a distant post, a closer Pale Thrush, several Vinous-throated Parrotbills and at least four Striated Prinias. Mr Tsai then imitated the song of Brownish-flanked Bush Warbler, which immediately popped into view, followed by a female Daurian Redstart sitting on top of a sprinkler head. Undoubtedly the bird of the morning though was the splendid male Siberian Rubythroat which sang its heart out, while perched in full view on a small tea bush, for over five minutes, just 20 meters away. Not a bad pre-breakfast stroll. As we had a long drive ahead of us, we departed for the Kokuan Pass, but decided to drive the Blue Gate Trail one more time as it was on the way. This proved an astute move. By driving slowly, and peering round each bend, we eventually saw a vision of black & white running along the trail ahead of us. Male Swinhoe's Pheasant at last. All too soon it dashed into cover but we had, at long last, seen a pheasant and were elated. A quick stroll along the Continuation Trail revealed that yesterday's fallen tree had been replaced by several man-sized boulders. We beat a hasty retreat. As we continued to climb towards the pass, we made a couple of roadside stops. At one of these, my imitation of Collared Owlet wound up the local avian population as bird after bird popped into view. Formosan Laughingthrush, Collared Bush Robin, Yellowish-bellied Bush Warbler and Northern Wren all showed well but the highlight was undoubtedly the elusive White-browed Bush Robin. This bamboo specialist is one of Taiwan's most difficult birds to find and, being a female, is easily confused with the more numerous and highly variable female Collared Bush Robin. However, the buff-coloured undertail coverts are the clincher and our bird showed these, along with a more conspicuous, stepped, supercilium that Collared Bush Robin lacks. Even Mr Tsai was elated. Obviously, even the locals struggle with this one. Pressing ever onwards, we disturbed a couple of very confiding Alpine Accentors by the roadside. A brief halt at the cloud-covered summit revealed no birds so we beat our second hasty retreat of the day, this time in freezing temperatures and a howling gale. After descending a couple of hundred meters on the eastern side of the central mountain ridge the mist cleared. There was even a patch of blue sky peering through the clouds. Another stop was called for, as was lunch. Achieving both together was a memorable goal, which produced a couple of Vinaceous Rosefinches, cracking views of Flamecrest below eye level, along with several Collared Bush Robins and Formosan Laughingthrushes. Eventually we had to press on so we said our goodbyes to Mr Tsai and his wife, who returned to Puli. We pressed on towards the Taroko Gorge, one of Asia's most spectacular scenic attractions. As we descended, we quickly entered the sea of cloud that lay below us, and saw little until we emerged into overcast skies just above the top of the gorge. Here lay our hotel and hopefully Styan's Bulbul. Kay opted to take a long bath while the remainder of our group watched Formosan Whistling Thrushes and the lucky few glimpsed an Asian House Martin, but eventually we gave up on Styan's Bulbul in the failing light. That would have to wait until tomorrow. A luxury shower was beckoning.

Day 9. Sunday 6 April. A dawn start quickly revealed a Styan's Bulbul outside the hotel entrance, paired with a Chinese Bulbul. Several Styan's frequented the hotel gardens; some paired together, others in mixed pairs. Hmmm, best leave that one to the experts. The adjacent river held a couple of Brown Dippers, while Kay, at last, caught up with Formosan Whistling Thrush. No migrants were evident this year but a wintering Blue Rock Thrush of the attractive chestnut-bellied form philippinensis, sat on the hotel roof. Departing shortly after breakfast, we descended through the spectacular gorge to reach the city of Hualien by 08:30 for our short pelagic session. Although primarily aimed at cetaceans, this boat offers good opportunities to encounter seabirds. At least that was the plan. In the event, the cetaceans won the day with Pantropical Spotted, Spinner and Risso's Dolphins coming out on top. Birds included a distant Far Eastern Curlew, several migrating Common Terns and lots of Red-necked Phalaropes, including one group estimated at 500 birds. As we departed Hualien we spotted a field full of birds. Stopping rapidly, we quickly picked up several attractive Dusky Thrushes feeding on the short turf, a real bonus bird, along with numerous Richard's Pipits. Additionally, there were several Oriental Skylarks, many of which were in song and sounding quite different to their mainland counterparts. After lunch at the Taroko Gorge Park centre we headed north towards Ilan in the northeast of the island. En-route, we broke our journey at Nanao for a couple of hours where we encountered several additions to our list, including Grey Heron, Intermediate Egret, Spot-billed Duck, Common Snipe, Red-necked Stint, Lesser Coucal, Sand Martin, Long-tailed Shrike and Scaly-breasted Munia. Departing at dusk, we reached our hotel at Chiaohsi two hours later.

Day 10. Monday 7 April. A pre-breakfast stroll around the rice fields next to the hotel revealed a swathe of new birds including Marsh and Sharp-tailed Sandpipers, as well as several Chestnut Munias in a feeding flock of Scaly-breasted and White-rumped Munias. Overhead, our only Chinese Pond Heron of the tour put in a brief appearance, while large numbers of Barn Swallows, presumably migrants, were feeding low over the rice fields. With them were a dozen Plain Martins, which gave us our best views so far as they perched on overhead wires. Following breakfast, we drove to nearby Bei Guan Farm, our stake out for Formosan Blue Magpie. As soon as we stopped the car, a magpie was heard and within 30 seconds, it was on the list. It's not always as easy as that! For the next hour, there was no sight or sound from them. Then, they suddenly reappeared on overhead wires, this time much closer, giving prolonged views. As the morning warmed, we strolled back and forth along the road, seeing Black-naped Monarch, Rufous-capped Babbler and several Streak-breasted Scimitar Babblers. A singing Spot-breasted Scimitar Babbler prompted a short detour, and after a brief burst of recorded song, we enjoyed excellent views of this often tricky and skulking species. By now, raptors were starting to appear over the ridge, with Crested Serpent Eagles and Crested Goshawks predominating. There were, however, a few migrants moving and within an hour, we had notched up an Osprey, three Oriental Honey-buzzards and five Grey-faced Buzzards. With wetland birds beckoning, we descended to the nearby coast and started to explore the numerous fishponds. As Kay would be leaving us tomorrow and was desperate to see Black-faced Spoonbill, we made this our priority for the remainder of the day. Although the bulk of the world population of this endangered species winters in Taiwan, most do so in the southwest of the island. In the northeast, a tiny population regularly occurs, this winter numbering just seven individuals and we had it on good authority that, over the previous weekend, one bird was still present. As we drove around the pools, it was clear that shorebird migration was underway and we enjoyed nice views of Black-winged Stilt, Pacific Golden and Kentish Plovers, Common and Spotted Redshanks, Greenshank, Marsh, Wood, Curlew and Sharp-tailed Sandpipers and the only Temminck's Stint of the tour. Supporting them were a fine cast of herons and egrets, including a nice adult Purple Heron, something of a rarity here in Taiwan. A calling Ruddy-breasted Crake was tape-lured into view, albeit briefly, Oriental Reed Warblers sang from deep within cover but refused to give themselves up and several drake Garganey made a fine sight in their spring regalia. By now, stomachs were rumbling but Kay was heard to utter that she would miss lunch for a Black-faced Spoonbill. Being one never to pass up such a gift horse, we were off again, following my old motto of 'check, check and check again'. Then, as we passed a pond we had looked at less than an hour ago, there it was, a stunning Black-faced Spoonbill just 60 meters away. Kay was overjoyed and we could go for lunch. We spent the afternoon driving towards Taipei along the scenic coastal highway. An intended brief stop at the busy fishing harbour of Dashi turned into something of a marathon as several terns were seen offshore. Grabbing our 'scopes, these turned out to be Greater Crested Terns, while nearby, a Streaked Shearwater was found sitting on the sea, close inshore. After battling through the quayside throng, we emerged on the harbour wall and, for the next hour, we enjoyed Pacific Reef Egrets, Black-tailed Gulls, a passing party of Common Terns along with the many Greater Crested Terns, which were now coming very close indeed, and several distant Streaked Shearwaters gathering offshore. Eventually, after an extended 'photo stop at the fish market, we were off to Taipei, seeing Eurasian Kestrel en-route.

Day 11, Tuesday 8 April. After saying goodbye to Kay, we headed off to Wulai, a famous birding spot to the south of Taipei. With the rain threatening to restart and mist shrouding the summits, we were not hopeful, but we almost immediately found a feeding flock of 30+ Grey Treepies, numerous Black Bulbuls and a bevy of tits. A strangely familiar song was traced to a Black-throated Laughingthrush, presumably an escape but very nice all the same. Overhead, a Black Eagle drifted in and out of the mist before landing on a distant branch, while several Crested Serpent Eagles and a couple of Oriental Honey-buzzards, probably local breeders, sailed by. Bird of the morning was, undoubtedly, Silver-backed Needletail. Needletails, the largest and most powerful of all the swifts, are always fantastic birds to watch. Here in Taiwan though, only White-throated Needletails are recorded, but I knew from past experience in Hong Kong, that Silver-backed was a possibility here. The problem always remains, however, to get convincing views of the throat colour. Today, as the numbers increased to in excess of 120 birds, several flew against the darker hillside, leaving no doubts that the throats were dark and the birds seen well were undoubtedly Silver-backed Needletails. The remainder, seen less well, were presumably also this species. As we watched, they screamed low overhead, with pairs performing the most amazing coordinated flying that would impress even the Red Arrows - the whooshing sound made by their wings as they plummeted headlong into the valley will long be remembered. Leaving Wulai, a Striated Heron was spotted on a rock in the Guang Shing River, while further downstream, a couple of Ospreys fished and two Black Kites drifted overhead. Departing Wulai, we started our long drive to Tainan in the southwest of the island, were we hoped we would locate some of the shorebirds we had hoped to see in Hong Kong. We reached Budai just before dusk, and a quick scan of a roadside saltpan revealed a throng of small shorebirds including Lesser Sand Plover, Curlew Sandpiper, Dunlin, Red-necked Stint and our first Broad-billed Sandpipers, while overhead, Whiskered Terns were numerous. This augured well for the morning. We stayed the night in a modest hotel attached to the most amazingly ornate Buddhist temple at Nan Kuan Shan (marked as Peimen Temple on the maps).

Day 12, Wednesday 9 April. Out with the dawn at 06:00 to search the hotel gardens, but they held few birds, so we set off for a nearby township where a roadside Dai Pai Dong rustled up an egg and pork burger, plus hot coffee - amazing. Returning to the hotel, another Mr Tsai was waiting to greet us and show us around his local birding hotspot. The extent of the pools and road network in this region is vast, and without such local knowledge, it would be easy to miss some of the better locations. Our first stop was the nearby Chishui River where numerous shorebirds were feeding on the opposite riverbank. New birds here included Greater Sand Plover, Eurasian Curlew and Black-tailed Godwit, while Black-headed Gulls, Caspian and Little Terns formed a loosely packed roosting group and Whiskered Terns sat on fish traps set in the river. Nearby, a couple of Yellow Bitterns and a Cinnamon Bittern flew past and a nice male Red-billed Starling was located on a flooded field. After driving around more pools and getting better views of more shorebirds, including our only Long-toed Stint, we set off for the Black-faced Spoonbill watch point at the Tsengwen River estuary. Here, we immediately found ten Black-faced Spoonbills roosting on a mudbank, where Great and Red Knots, a nice Far Eastern Curlew, several Broad-billed Sandpipers and a party of Bar-tailed Godwits fed alongside the more numerous sand plovers, Curlew and Marsh Sandpipers and Red-necked Stints. Driving around yet more pools revealed a further 27 Black-faced Spoonbills but little else of note, so we headed off to Tainan for lunch. Next, a drive around the agricultural fields centred on the Tung Chi Farm revealed 20+ Oriental Pratincoles, a large flock of Pacific Golden Plovers, several 'real' Ring-necked Pheasants and a female Barred Button Quail that walked along the track in front of us, revealing its black throat. Next came a dash inland to visit the Pheasant-tailed Jacana Rehabilitation Project at Guantian. Created just four years ago to stabilise a rapidly declining population, this tiny reserve now holds almost a quarter of Taiwan's population. During our brief stay, we saw six Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, all in non-breeding plumage apart from one smarter individual that was well advanced into breeding plumage, but still lacked the full tail which gives this species its name. We returned to our hotel in fading light, well, satisfied with an excellent day?s shorebirding.

Day 13, Thursday 10 April. Following a Yellow-browed Warbler in the hotel garden, presumably a migrant, we were off for our burger breakfast again. With most of the expected shorebirds seen - and seen well - today we intended to explore the river mouths and pools to the north of Nan Kuan Shan in search of the big three: Spoon-billed Sandpiper, Nordmann's Greenshank and Asian Dowitcher, which had been our top goals in Hong Kong. Our first stop was at the Chishui River which held a similar spread of birds to the previous day but nothing new, so we soon departed for the Pachang River, lying a few Km to the north. We pulled in to watch a large flock of Great and Red Knots feeding by the roadside, while in the distance a large flock of tern were roosting near the river mouth. Casually scanning through these, most were huge Caspian Terns, but it was apparent that there were several smaller and darker-mantled Greater Crested Terns with them. Then, a large pale-mantled tern appeared, but just as I got onto it, the entire flock flew. Following it in flight, it was joined by a second similar bird. Surely Gull-billed Terns, but something was strangely odd about them. I followed them down, and as they landed, the bills were clearly pale. Alarm bells started ringing, the 60x eyepiece was fitted, the bills really were bright yellow, and, most amazingly, both showed extensive black tips to the bills. This had to be a dream. I put Mr Tsai's scope on them. He smiled.

TWO CHINESE CRESTED TERNS!!!!

The ultimate write-in. A bird I'd long hoped to see, and searched for throughout Asia for over 20 years. With a world population not known to exceed 10 individuals; Chinese Crested Tern is the world's rarest tern and indeed one o

Annotated Species List

Up to 20 near Chiaohsi, Ilan district on 6-7 April. Common on pools throughout the Tainan-Butai region with over 100 birds recorded daily on 9-10 April. Birds of the subspecies T. r. poggei show a conspicuous pale iris

Streaked Shearwater Calonectris leucomelas
At least 10 offshore from the small fishing town of Dashi, Ilan district on 7 April. Most were distant but one individual was sitting on the sea just offshore from the harbour.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo
One adult north of Tainan on 9 April and two immatures on rocks at Yehliu on 11 April.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea
Recorded daily 6-10 April in the Chiaohsi and Tainan areas. Mostly seen singly or in small scattered groups, but numbers exceeded 40+ in the Chiaohsi area on 6 April and 20+ between Peimen and Potzu on 10 April.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea
One adult near Chiaohsi on 7 April. A local and uncommon bird in Taiwan.

Great Egret Ardea alba
Recorded in wetlands, including rice fields, daily between 6-11 April. A common roadside bird throughout the lowlands with 120 on 7 April, 220 on 8 April, 150 on 9 April and 100+ on 10 April.

Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia
One by the roadside with other egrets on 6 April. Singles noted in the Budai area on 8 & 10 April, and three near Chinshan on 11 April. Probably overlooked among the vast numbers of egrets in the lowlands.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta
A very common bird of wetlands throughout the lowlands, with hundreds seen daily in the southwest. Over 2000 birds daily, 9-10 April, in the Tainan-Budai area.

Chinese (Swinhoe's) Egret Egretta eulophotes
Two adults in breeding plumage on intertidal mudflats by the Pachang River on 10 April, and three breeding plumage adults on rocks at Yehliu on 11 April with two Little Egrets.

Pacific Reef Egret Egretta sacra
Common on rocky shorelines along the north and east coasts. At least six at Dashi, Ilan district on 7 April and six at Yehliu on 11 April. All were dark phase apart from one white phase individual at Yehliu.

Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus
Just one adult which flew over our heads during a pre-breakfast stroll near the hotel at Chiaohsi on 7 April.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis
Fairly common throughout the lowlands in wetlands including rice fields, but not as numerous as Little Egret. Numbers highest near Tainan with up to 600 birds noted. Birds in east Asia including Taiwan are of the subspecies B. i. coromandus that shows a warm buff-coloured mantle and head compared with European birds.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus
One adult feeding among rocks by the Guang Shing River, near Wulai on 8 April.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax
Three in Taipei Botanical Gardens on 31 March and 40+ along the Guang Shing River, near Wulai on 8 April. Common in Chiaohsi area with up to 80 daily in the Budai-Tainan area.

Malayan Night Heron Gorsachius melanolophus
At least 6 birds in Taipei Botanical Gardens on 31 March, including 5 adults and one immature. These birds were completely at ease with the large numbers of people in the gardens and one fed unconcerned to within four meters.

Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis
Two at Chiaohsi on 7 April, two at the Chishui River near Peimen on 9 April and a further three nearby the following day. All seen in flight over fairly small Phragmites reedbeds.

Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus
One at Chiaohsi on 7 April, three at the Chishui River on 9 April and two near the Pachang River on 10 April. Seen both in flight and at rest on mudflats!

Black-faced Spoonbill Platalea minor
A sub-adult near Chiaohsi on 7 April was the last remaining individual of the seven birds that wintered at this site in northern Taiwan. At the traditional wintering area of the Tsengwen River estuary, north of Tainan, ten seen from the watchpoint overlooking the mudflats and a further 27 on nearby pools, all on 9 April. The known world population of this species is rising annually, and stood at 1074 individuals in January 2003.

Common Teal Anas crecca
A group of 20+ by the Potzu River, north of Butai, on 10 April.

Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha
Two birds in flooded fields and at least 15 birds roosting on the nearby beach near Nanao on 6 April and two near the hotel at Chiaohsi on 7 April. All birds of the distinctive northern migratory form A.p. zonorhyncha.

Garganey Anas querquedula
A minimum of 12 on pools near Chiaohsi on 7 April, and three by the Potzu River, north of Butai, on 10 April.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula
Three on a pool near Chiaohsi on 7 April.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus
One near Chiaohsi on 7 April, two fishing by the Guang Shing River, near Wulai, on 8 April, two separate singles near Tainan on 9 April and one at Aogu Farm on 11 April.

Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhyncus
Two at Sansia on 30 March, singles at Anmashan on 2 & 3 April, three near Nanao on 7 April and at least 10 individuals in the Wulai area on 8 April, including a displaying male.

Black Kite Milvus migrans
Two by the Guang Shing River, near Wulai on 8 April, and one at Yehliu on 11 April. A scarce and rapidly declining species in Taiwan, now occurring in two isolated pockets in the north and south of the country. Ten years ago, this species was abundant throughout the country, and the reasons for its decline are unknown. Although Clements lists the breeding birds in Taiwan as M. m. formosanus, all birds appeared to resemble the more widespread but distinctive race M. m. lineatus.

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela
Common over forested hills below 2000 meters, and noted at Sansia, below Anmashan, Bei Guan Farm and the Wulai area. At least 10 birds in the air at one time at Bei Guan Farm. Endemic subspecies S. c. hoya.

Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus
Common and widespread throughout the lowlands. Two at Sansia on 30 March included good views of a perched immature. A tail protruding from a nest in Taipei Botanical Gardens on 31 March, belonged, we were assured, to a Crested Goshawk. Other sightings included at least seven below Anmashan on 3 April, three at Bei Guan Farm on 7 April, two at Wulai on 8 April and an immature seen well in flight below eye level at Yehliu on 11 April. Endemic subspecies A. t. formosae.

Chinese Goshawk Accipiter soloensis
An adult female at Aogu Farm on 11 April showed very well as it perched in a tree eating a large Chinese Skink Eumeces chinensis.

Besra Accipiter virgatus
A small accipiter flying down the road at knee height in front of our FWD was almost certainly this common and widespread raptor. Surprisingly, no other sightings. Endemic subspecies A. v. fuscipectus.

Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus
At least 5 at Bei Guan Farm on 7 April and 4 at Aogu Farm on 11 April were all presumably migrants. One at Aogu Farm perching in a tree was aged as a first summer bird.

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo
One at Chinshin, near Yehliu, on 11 April.

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis
One seen in flight, and perched in a tree, at Wulai on 8 April. More numerous and widespread than commonly believed.

Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus
Singles at Cape Santiago (Santiagochiao) on 7 April, Aogu Farm on 11 April and Chinshin, near Yehliu, on 11 April.

Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus
A pair hunting shorebirds over flooded rice fields at Chinshin, near Yehliu, on 11 April. The female conveniently perched on a small bund and give good views for several minutes.

Formosan (Taiwan) Hill Partridge Arborophila crudigularis
One heard by the Hill Trail at Anmashan on 2 April but not seen. Species endemic to Taiwan

Chinese Bamboo Partridge Bambusicola thoracica
Regularly heard in wooded hills, and even scrub, below 2000 meters. At least six birds, including a very approachable pair, around the hotel at Wushe on 5 April. Endemic subspecies B. t. sonorivox.

Swinhoe's Pheasant Lophura swinhoii
A male along the Blue Gate Trail above Wushe on 5 April. Species endemic to Taiwan

Ring-necked Pheasant Phasianus colchicus
Common in fields at Tung Chi Farm near Tainan on 9 April. Endemic sub-species P. c. formosanus

Barred Button-quail Turnix suscitator
One flushed from a jeep track near Puli on 3 April, two flushed from fields near Nanao on 7 April and a female seen well as it walked across a farm track at Tung Chi Farm near Tainan on 9 April. Endemic subspecies T. s. rostrata.

Slaty-breasted Rail Gallirallus striatus
One walking in the open close to mangrove by the Potzu River on 10 April. Endemic subspecies G. s. taiwanus.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus
One near Puli on 3 April, two at Nanao on 6 April, four near Chiaohsi on 7 April and small numbers in the Tainan area.

Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca
One calling bird tape-lured into view near Chiaohsi on 7 April.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus
Two in Taipei Botanical Gardens on 31 March, singles near Puli on 3 April and Nanao on 6 April. Common and widespread on pools in the Chiaohsi and Tainan areas, with up to 60 birds seen.

Eurasian Coot Fulica atra
One at Chiaohsi on 7 April.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus
At a small reserve near Guantian specifically created to rehabilitate the population of this declining species, six birds were seen on 9 April. In the four years since its creation, the population has steadily increased, reaching 39 breeding adults in 2002.

Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis
A male seen in flight and a female seen well at rest in rice field near Puli 3 April.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus
A common breeding species throughout the Tainan area with up to 200 birds seen daily.

Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum
A breeding bird of the dried fields in the Tainan area. At least 20 noted at Tung Chi Farm on 9 April and 6 to the north of Budai on 10 April. In addition, one hawking over flooded rice fields near Chinshin, on 11 April.

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva
Two near Chiaohsi on 7 April, 80+ in fields near Tung Chi Farm on 9 April, and 15 on mudflats by the Potzu River on 10 April.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola
At least 12 on mudflats by the Tsengwen River on 9 April, and 10+ in scattered one's and two's north of Peimen Temple on 10 April.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius
One near Puli on 3 April, eight near Nanao on 6 April, 35+ near Chiaohsi on 7 April and one near Peimen Temple on 8 April.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus
At least 10 near Chiaohsi on 7 April. A common breeding bird on the pools and salt pans in the Tainan area, with up to 200 seen daily between 8 & 10 April. A pair with two recently hatched chicks on 8 April.

Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus
Up to 150 on the estuaries and pools in the Tainan area, between 8-10 April. All birds in breeding plumage were of the nominate form.

Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii
Less numerous than Lesser Sand Plover, with estimates of 30 on 9 April and 50+ on 10 April.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago
At least 15 on pools near Nanao on 6 April, and 30+ near Chiaohsi on 7 April. In the Tainan area, only 4 birds noted, all at the Pheasant-tailed Jacana rehabilitation project near Guantian on 9 April.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa
Uncommon, with just one bird on the Chishui River on 9 April and 12 there the following day. Also on 10 April, up to 25 birds on mudflats by the Pachang River. All birds were of the small race L.l. melanuroides.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica
Six on mudflats by the Tsengwen River on 9 April.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus
One by the Pachang River on 10 April.

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata
One by the Chishui River on 9 April.

Far Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis
One flew north past the boat out of Hualien on 6 April, one on mudflats by the Tsengwen River on 9 April and one by the Chishui River on 10 April.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythrops
Two on a pool near Chiaohsi on 7 April was the only record.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus
At least 15 near Chiaohsi on 7 April and up to 25 daily on pools and rivers in the Tainan region.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis
Up to 25 near Chiaohsi on 7 April, and regularly 150+ on pools in the Tainan region.

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia
Only noted in the Tainan region were it was common on pools and rivers throughout, with up to 80 birds seen daily.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus
The only bird seen was in flooded fields near Puli on 3 April.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola
One near Nanao on 6 April and 10+ near Chiaohsi on 7 April. Common, particularly in rice fields, throughout the Tainan region with in excess of 150 birds seen on 9 & 10 April.

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus
Noted in small numbers on all the estuaries between the Tsengwen River and the Potzu River, totalling up to 40+ daily on 9 & 10 April.

Singles near Puli on 3 April and at Nanao on 6 April. At least 8 near Chiaohsi on 7 April, up to 12 daily on 9 & 10 April on pools in the Tainan area, and a further 10+ on rocks at Yehliu on 11 April.

At least 40, many in breeding plumage, on pools near Chiaohsi on 7 April. Numerous in the southwest with 80+ on mudflats on the Tsengwen River estuary on 9 April and 300+ on the Chishui, Pachang and Potzu Rivers on 10 April.

At least 15 on the Tsengwen River estuary on 9 April and 40+ on the Pachang and Potzu River Estuaries on 10 April. One bird at the latter site carried a red leg-flag on its right tibia.

One at Nanao on 6 April and 3+ near Chiaohsi on 7 April. More numerous in the southwest, with many birds feeding on drained ponds as well as intertidal estuaries. Numbers exceeded 200 birds on most days.

One on a drained fish-pond at Chiaohsi on 7 April

One on a small pool near the Chishui River and Peimen Temple on 9 April.

A minimum of 40 birds seen scattered widely over many drained pools in the Chiaohsi area on 7 April. Less numerous in the southwest with just two birds noted on 9 April and six on 10 April.

Apart from two birds in the Chiaohsi area on 7 April, only noted in the southwest, were it was the most numerous shorebird, with up to 600 birds daily between 8 & 10 April.

Compared with its status in Hong Kong in spring, more numerous than expected, with six near the Peimen Temple on 8 April, 30+ on the Chishui and Tsengwen River estuaries on 9 April, and 50+ on the Potzu River estuary on 10 April.

Two on saltpans near the Peimen Temple on 8 April, four on the Tsengwen River estuary on 9 April, and at least six on the Potzu River on 10 April.

Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus
Only seen on the boat trip out of Hualien on 6 April, with several small groups of up to eight individuals regularly appearing, totalling 92 birds. In addition, we also encountered one huge feeding flock that extended in all directions around the boat. We conservatively estimated that 500 birds were in this flock but there could have been many times this number. Most birds were still in non-breeding plumage, although some were moulting into breeding plumage.

Black-tailed Gull Larus crassirostris
Three birds in first-summer plumage off Dashi harbour, Ilan district on 7 April.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus
At least 150 on the Chishui River on 9 April and 60+ there on 10 April.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia
At least 80 roosting on the Chishui River on 9 April and 40+ there the following day. In addition, an estimated 110 roosting on the northern shore of the Pachang River on 10 April.

Chinese Crested Tern Sterna bernsteini
Two adults in breeding plumage, with Caspian and Greater Crested Terns, roosting on the northern shore of the Pachang River on 10 April. Photographed. Although not yet accepted onto the list of birds recorded from Taiwan, this sighting represents the third record from the main island of Taiwan, and all from this one site. Until recently, Chinese Crested Tern was believed to be extinct, but was discovered breeding in 2000 on Matzu, a small island under Taiwanese administration, only 8 km from the coast of Fujian province, China. In 2000, there were four pairs and four young birds are believed to have fledged, while in 2002, up to six adults were present at this site and one young bird is believed to have fledged.

Greater Crested Tern Sterna bergii
At least 40 feeding offshore, and occasionally coming inshore, at the fishing port of Dashi on 7 April. A further 30+ were roosting on the northern shore of the Pachang River, close to the river mouth, on 10 April, with several more perching on poles over the sea. All birds were in breeding plumage and showed the dark grey mantle of the local breeding form S. b. cristata.

Common Tern Sterna hirundo
Eight birds flew past the boat out of Hualien on 6 April and a further six flew north at Dashi on 7 April. On the Pachang River, seven birds roosting in the large tern flock. All birds exhibited the black bill, dark legs and silky-grey underparts characteristic of the eastern breeding race S. h. longipennis.

Widespread in the southwest with small parties roosting on mudflats and drained pools throughout the Budai-Tainan region. At least 40 seen on 9 April and 50+ on 10 April.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus
Very numerous in the Budai-Tainan region with many birds roosting on estuarine mudflats or hawking over ponds. Estimated numbers were 60+ on 8 April, 80+ on 9 April and 250+ on 10 April. Some birds still in winter plumage but most had moulted into breeding plumage.

Feral Pigeon Columba livia
Common throughout the lowlands up to 1400 meters.

Ashy Wood Pigeon Columba pulchricollis
At Anmashan, four on 1 April, while near Wushe, singles along the Blue Gate Trail on 4 & 5 April.

Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis
Four near Puli on 3 April and at least 20 in the Wushe ñ Tsuifeng region. Endemic subspecies S. o. orii.

Red Turtle Dove Streptopelia tranquebarica
Widespread and fairly common in the rural lowlands, becoming abundant towards Tainan.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis
A common bird of the lowlands.

Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica
One heard in the wooded hills south of Puli on 3 April.

White-bellied Green Pigeon Treron sieboldii
Two perched in a tree by the roadside on the way to Anmashan on 31 March, at an elevation of approximately 1100 meters.

Large Hawk Cuckoo Hierococcyx sparverioides
Only one bird heard on the lower slopes of Anmashan on 3 April.

Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus
Birds giving the distinctive call were seen at Sansia on 30 March, and on the lower slopes of Anmashan on 3 April. Calling, but unseen birds were noted at Puli on 3 April. In addition, an unidentified Cuculus cuckoo was seen briefly in the grounds of the Peimen temple on 9 April.

Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis
Heard at several locations throughout the lowlands, with two seen at Nanao on 6 April, three in the Tainan region on 9 & 10 April.

Mountain Scops Owl Otus spilocephalus
Heard at Anmashan. Endemic subspecies O. s. hambroecki.

Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei
Regularly heard calling during the day at Anmashan and in the Wushe-Tsuifeng region. Endemic subspecies G. b. pardalotum.

Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis
One calling male showed well at dusk near Puli on 3 April. Another bird heard after dark, shortly before reaching Chiaohsi on 6 April. Endemic subspecies C. a. stictomus.

Silver-backed Needletail Hirundapus cochinchinensis
At Wulai on 8 April, over 120 Hirundapus swifts were feeding low over the forest during a period of light rain and low cloud and giving good views against the dark hillside. Of up to 60 or so seen very well, all lacked the conspicuous white throat, but showed the white undertail coverts and pale mantle patch, so must have been this species. It was assumed that remaining birds that were not seen well or against a dark background were also this species. Other unidentified Hirundapus swifts included 10+ at Sansia on 30 March and one at Anmashan on 2 April. This species is not yet on the Taiwan list, although it appears to be more numerous than White-throated Needletail Hirundapus caudacutus and almost certainly breeds in the mountains on the island. Furthermore, some authorities, including Clements, suggest the birds occurring here belong to an endemic subspecies H. c. formosanus.

Pacific Swift Apus pacificus
At least four in the Chiaohsi area on 7 April and two at Yehliu on 11 April.

House Swift Apus nipalensis
Generally common and widespread throughout the lowlands, with double figure counts most days. Endemic subspecies A. n. kuntzi.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis
Fairly common in the lowlands with one at Sansia on 30 March, six near Chiaohsi on 7 April and up to three daily in the Tainan area.

Black-browed Barbet Megalaima oorti
Common and widespread in lowlands including Taipei Botanical Gardens; rare above 1600 meters. Endemic subspecies M. o. nuchalis.

Grey-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus
Three in the hills to the south of Puli on 3 April and two at Wulai on 8 April.

White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopos leucotos
One at Anmashan on 31 March and a pair showing well in a tree outside the hotel at Anmashan on 2 April. Other birds regularly heard here. Endemic subspecies D. l. insularis.

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula
Two in fields near Puli on 3 April, at least 20 in a large, short-grass field on the outskirts of Hualien on 6 April and six in fields near Tung Chi Farm, Tainan, on 9 April. Endemic subspecies A. g. wattersi.

Sand Martin Riparia riparia
One at Nanao on 6 April.

Plain Martin Riparia paludicola
Fairly common in the lowlands. Four feeding over a river between Tung Shih and Puli on 3 April, followed by 10+ feeding over agricultural land near Puli, also on 6 April. One at Nanao on 6 April and six near the hotel during a pre-breakfast walk at Chiaohsi on 7 April. At least 80 birds by a roadside flyover near the Pachang River, with many entering drainage hotels set into the concrete walls, and were presumably nesting there.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica
Common throughout the lowlands

Pacific Swallow Hirundo tahitica
Common in the lowlands and into the hills as far as Wushe.

Striated Swallow Hirundo striolata
A common breeding bird in towns and villages among the lower hills and plains of the west coast. Many birds were constructing nests in towns between Tung Shih and Puli on 3 April, and gave superb views as the perched above the road just meters away. All birds showed the heavily streaked rump, lack of pale collar and densely streaked underparts characteristic of this species. Note that Red-rumped Swallow H. daurica has not yet been recorded from Taiwan but should occur.

Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus
Two with other hirundines above the Taroko Gorge on 5 April.

Pied Wagtail Motacilla alba
Six birds resembling the race M.a. leucopsis and a single bird showing the characters of the race M. a. ocularis in fields near Puli on 3 April. At least 12 birds of the race M.a. leucopsis at the Taroko Gorge on 6 April.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava
Particularly common near Puli on 3 April were over 600 birds noted, and winter roosts of 30,000 regularly form. Elsewhere, common in the Chiaohsi and Tainan regions, with up to 150 birds daily. All these birds were of the yellow-headed form M. f. taivana which is a common winter visitor. A group of 15 birds, presumably migrants, feeding in flooded rice fields at Chinshan on 11 April were of the race M. f. simillima, which displays a blue crown and nape, and a conspicuous white supercilium.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea
Heard and seen in small numbers most days from sea level to 2500 meters.

Richard's Pipit Anthus richardi
At least 20 birds of a large, migratory wintering race, possibly the nominate form, were feeding on a short-grass field on the outskirts of Hualien on 6 April, and at least eight similar birds were in fields near the Potzu River on 10 April.

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni
One seen at Sansia on 30 March and six near the hotel at Wushe on 5 April. Others heard calling occasionally elsewhere.

Grey-throated Minivet Pericrocotus solaris
Common in forest at Anmashan and in the Wushe- Tsuifeng region.

Collared Finchbill Spizixos semitorques
Two at Sansia on 30 March and two in the foothills below Anmashan on 31 March. A further two in fields beside the hotel at Wushe on 5 April. Endemic subspecies S. s. cinereicapillus.

Styan's Bulbul Pycnonotus taivanus
Several in the hotel grounds on the west side of the Taroko Gorge on 6 April, where some Styan's Bulbuls were paired with Chinese Bulbuls. Common at sea level near Hualien. Species endemic to Taiwan.

Chinese (Light-vented) Bulbul Pycnonotus sinensis
Common and widespread throughout the lowlands up to 1600 meters. Endemic subspecies P. s. formosae.

Brown-eared Bulbul Ixos amaurotis
A group of 40+ birds flying around the cliffs at Yehliu on 11 April eventually departed out to sea. A rare winter visitor from Japan, although exceptionally numerous during the last winter.

Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus
Numerous in wooded areas throughout Taiwan from lowlands to 2500 meters. Endemic subspecies H. l. nigerrimus.

Flamecrest Regulus goodfellowi
One along trail 230 at Anmashan on 1 April and three along the trail below the Kokuan Pass on 5 April. Responds well to the call of Collared Owlet. Species endemic to Taiwan.

Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii
Two on rocks in the river near the hotel above the Taroko Gorge on 6 April.

Northern (Winter) Wren Troglodytes troglodytes
One distinctive individual seen well at a roadside stop on the west side of the Kokuan Pass on 5 April appeared to be much darker and longer-billed than Wrens in Europe. Endemic subspecies T. t. taivanus.

Alpine Accentor Prunella collaris
Two by the roadside before the Kokuan Pass on 5 April and a single bird, also by the roadside on the east side of the pass. Very tame and approachable. Endemic subspecies P. c. fennelli.

Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius
A male at the hotel at the Taroko Gorge on 6 April, two males by the shore of the Pachang River on 10 April and a male at Yehliu on 11 April. All were of the distinctive red-bellied form M.s. philippensis.

Formosan Whistling Thrush Myiophoneus insularis
Common in suitable habitats. One at Sansia on 30 March, three by the river near the hotel at Taroko Gorge on 5 April, followed by five there the following day, one at Wulai on 8 April and one at Yehliu on 11 April. Species endemic to Taiwan.

White's (Scaly) Thrush Zoothera dauma
Regularly noted on trails in the mountains and around the hotel buildings at Anmashan, with two on 1 April, four on 2 April and one there on 3 April. Also regular on trails in the Wushe- Tsuifeng area, with five on 4 April and one on 5 April. One bird at sea level in Aogu Farm, north of Tainan, on 11 April was presumably a migrant. All birds seen were presumably of the northern migrant form Z. d. aurea, which winters commonly in Taiwan.

Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus
One in fields next to the hotel at Wushe on 5 April.

Pale Thrush Turdus pallidus
Two or three by the hotel at Anmashan on 1 & 2 April, and one on the Blue Gate Trail at Tsuifeng on 5 April.

Brown-headed Thrush Turdus chrysolaus
The most numerous and widespread thrush. Four in the scrub by the hotel at Wushe on 5 April, one in the hotel gardens at the Taroko Gorge on 6 April, three at Bei Guan Farm on 7 April and at least six at Yehliu on 11 April. Other thrushes heard giving the distinctive flight note were occasionally heard in the hills and lowlands.