Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Day 1. Sun. 17 Nov. All the members of the group arrived at Heathrow just after 5 o’clock in the afternoon and the check-in with Qatar Airways went fairly smoothly. There was plenty of room on the plane with it being only about half full and so we were able to get comfortable for our night flight to Doha.

Day 2. Mon 18 Nov. The connection in Doha in the early hours of the morning also went smoothly and we were soon airborne again and heading for Kathmandu. As we approached we had our first views of the magnificent Himalayas which seemed to grow ever more impressive as we neared Kathmandu. Once we had landed and collected our bags we had a slight delay before we met Shankur who was to be our guiding light for the next two weeks. We made our way through the Kathmandu traffic and arrived at the delightful Kantipur Temple House and in the dying light of the day we went onto the roof to watch the Common Mynas, Egrets and Black Kites going to roost. We enjoyed a delicious meal that evening but because of our travelling went to bed early for a very welcome sleep.

Day 3. Tues. 19 Nov. An early breakfast in the hotel before we set out on a foggy morning for the Royal Forest of Nagarjung. By the time our two four-wheel vehicles had negotiated the narrow streets leading to the forest and Shankur had organised our passes the fog was beginning to lift. The guards at the gate informed us that there had been a landslide recently that had blocked the track that led to the top. We decided to go as far as we could, then return and drive to another gate and try our luck that way. One of the first species we saw was Scaly Thrush (formerly White’s Thrush), when two were spotted feeding on the track ahead of us and we enjoyed unusually good views of what can sometimes be an elusive bird. We came across several feeding flocks amongst which were Greenish Warblers, Velvet-fronted Nuthatches, Grey-headed Warblers, Grey-headed Canary Flycatcher, Grey Treepie and Blue Whistling Thrush — all species that are fairly common in the Kathmandu Valley. We had excellent views of several Dark-throated Thrushes (Black-throated form), Red-billed Blue Magpies, Blue-throated Barbet, Long-tailed Minivets and Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush but we had to work a little harder to see Yellow-bellied Fantail, Blyth’s Leaf Warbler, Whistler’s Warbler and the very elusive Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler that spent a lot of time calling but only offered fleeting views to some of our group. Two birds of prey, Crested Honey Buzzard and Crested Serpent Eagle, were spotted roosting in nearby trees and remained long enough for us to view them through our telescopes; no doubt they were waiting for the day to warm up before taking off. We eventually reached the landslide, so we turned and exited the way we had entered earlier and drove a short distance along the road to another gate. The fog had lifted by now and it remained fairly cloudy for the rest of the morning, but it turned into a warm and sunny afternoon. We drove the long track to the temple on the top during which we saw many of the species seen earlier and four Mountain Bulbuls that were to be the only record for the tour. At our lunch stop near to the top our one and only Black Eagle flew low overhead and disappeared over the treetops never to be seen again. On the top we enjoyed the spectacle of the temple adorned with thousands of prayer flags that spilled down onto the surrounding trees and bushes. After we had returned to the bottom we continued the cultural theme with a visit to the very impressive Buddhist temple at Swayambhunath, complete with its prayer flags, prayer wheels and monkeys (Rhesus Macaque). It was a nice way to end the day and an excellent introduction to the birds and culture of Nepal, the latter of which was to continue in the evening at the Grihan Boha Restaurant where we enjoyed some excellent Nepalese food and dancing.

Day 4. Wed. 20 Nov. The day was to follow a similar weather pattern to yesterday with a foggy start to the day, a generally cloudy morning and a sunny afternoon. After an early breakfast we set out once more in the four-wheel drive vehicles and headed to the southeast edge of the Kathmandu Valley to the village of Godaveri. Here we spent an hour or so birdwatching in an area of trees and bushes adjacent to the botanical gardens. Amongst the first birds we saw were a female Blue-fronted Redstart, a small flock of Black-throated Tits, Yellow-browed Warbler and two or three Olive-backed Pipits. We searched along a stream for forktails with some success when a Spotted Forktail was disturbed flying a short distance along the stream. It proved a little elusive as we carefully crept into position where we could view the bed of the stream where it had been feeding. With a little persistence we did manage to get more brief views of it either in the stream, perched in a tree or in flight. We also had brief views of a Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler that appeared on the bank of the stream and disappeared into a clump of vegetation never to be seen again. After that we drove as far as we could up to the top of Phulchowki Hill until a notice put up by the army prevented us going any further. We got out of the vehicles and our plan was to slowly walk back down looking for birds in the forest on the upper slopes. Buff-barred Warbler was one of the first species we saw and was to be followed by many more as we walked down the track. This was to be closely followed by two Rufous-vented Yuhinas, White-browed Fulvetta and a very obliging Red-flanked Bluetail that was flying down onto the track to feed. We saw three species of woodpecker Fulvous-breasted, Rufous-bellied and Yellow-crowned, the last of which is not a common species and has only been recorded on a few occasions on our trips to the area. What was probably the best bird of the tour, a Purple Cochoa, was seen by Pierre who managed to see it well through his telescope and subsequently identified it from the field guide. As we gradually moved lower down we added new species to our list such as Rufous Sibia, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Black-lored Tit, Chestnut-tailed Minla, White-collared Blackbird, Stripe-throated Yuhina and a Blue-capped Redstart. Sunbirds were well represented with Green-tailed, Fire-tailed and Mrs Gould’s and the closely related Fire-breasted and Yellow-bellied Flowerpeckers, and whenever the brightly coloured males were seen little cries of delight were uttered by the members of our party (including the leaders). Some time was spent in trying to see laughingthrushes, some of which are very vocal with extraordinary calls but often reluctant to show. With some perseverance we did manage good views of about half a dozen White-throated and a couple of Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes and a Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler was seen. At about half way down and late in the afternoon we decided to head back to our hotel and another superb meal in the evening.

Day 5. Thurs 21 Nov. We had an early breakfast before our departure on a cool misty morning to Gaida Wildlife Camp in the south of Nepal. We made our way across the Kathmandu Valley before descending down along a spectacular road twisting and turning before it levelled out to follow the Trisuli River. We had an impromptu stop at Mahadev Besi where Shankur had spotted a bird of prey sitting on a pylon and although it was against the light from our view point we decided it was a Shaheen Falcon, a race of Peregrine, although regarded by some as a full species. The next stop was at Keste Khola, a tributary of the Trisuli River and an excellent spot for river birds. Along the Trisuli itself were half a dozen Plumbeous Redstarts, several White-capped Redstarts, Common Sandpiper and White-browed Wagtail. It was the Keste Khola that occupied most of our attention, however, as we watched from a bridge and saw a pair of Brown Dippers, a pair of Little Forktails, a Grey Wagtail and a Slaty-backed Forktail which Shankur coaxed under the bridge onto rocks where it stayed for a while in full view. Next we moved on to the village of Belhku to look for one of the special birds of the trip, Ibisbill. We scanned the river from the roadside and it wasn’t long before one was found roosting on a bank at the water’s edge, its grey back merging so well with the surrounding rocks. Having viewed it for a while from our lofty vantage point we decided to go down onto the riverbed for a closer look. We managed to get much closer and enjoyed excellent views through the telescopes as did some of the local villagers who seemed genuinely interested, especially when Shankur explained to them that they were looking at a special bird and that they should look after and protect them. We moved onto the next village which was at Pokare Khola where we found a further four Ibisbills and had even better views than we did of the previous one - we also saw our first Indian Roller here. After all the morning's excitement it was time for lunch, so we stopped at Maleku a sort of roadside café well situated on a little hill and an excellent spot for some of Nepal’s many butterflies. After lunch we continued south, stopping every now and then to search for Wallcreepers along the river gorges but, try as we did, we were unable to find any. In the late afternoon we arrived at Gaida Wildlife Camp anticipating what this new location might bring us on the following day.

Day 6. Fri 22 Nov. On a very misty morning after a cup of coffee we assembled at the elephant ‘embarkation point’ just as our transport was arriving. We climbed on board the elephants and set off across the river into the misty jungle. With visibility so poor it was a little difficult finding birds and so we enjoyed the ride. We had a little more luck when we went out onto the grassland where we saw Rufous-rumped Grassbird and a small flock of Chestnut-capped Babblers and Ted and Zoe had a bit more luck in the forest when they came across a Brown Fish Owl. After breakfast we prepared ourselves for another form of transport — this time dugout canoes. Each canoe is carved from a single tree trunk and rides quite low in the water and so we carefully climbed in and adjusted our balance then set off down river. There were many things to be seen along the river with plenty of kingfishers and herons and one of the commonest birds was the beautiful Ruddy Shelduck or ‘Brahminy Duck’ as it is often referred to locally. As we continued we saw good numbers of Greenshanks and River Lapwings, small numbers of Red-wattled Lapwings, Little Ringed Plovers and Temminck’s Stints and a single Kentish Plover. Along the banks and on the muddy islands White and White-browed Wagtails were fairly common and two Citrine Wagtails added a bit of colour. Several Crested Serpent Eagles were perched in trees along the riverbank and overhead we saw an Osprey, two Crested Honey Buzzards and a Besra. We also saw two large Gharials basking in the sun on a mud bank who remained motionless with their snouts slightly raised as we drifted by and just after we had landed a Marsh Mugger was spotted a little further down river.

Once we were back on dry land we walked along a track through the elephant grass to Gaida tented Camp. Just after we had started we spent some time trying to coax Grey-breasted and Ashy Prinia out of the elephant grass and although they played hard to get everyone eventually saw them well. In the scattered trees growing in the grass we saw a great variety of species amongst which were Collared Falconet, Lineated Barbet, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike, Common Woodshrike, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, White-browed Fantail, Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch and Plum-headed Parakeet, and flying overhead were several Crested Tree Swifts which turned out to be the only ones seen on the tour. After a very pleasant lunch at the camp we return to Gaida Wildlife Camp on elephant back, travelling across the open grassland which had in part been cut by the villagers, making it easier to see Rosy, Oriental, Richard's and Long-billed Pipits, as well as White-tailed Stonechat, several Hoopoes and a Smoky Warbler that showed itself briefly. We eventually reached the river again much further upstream where it was much wider. The bank where we entered the water was so steep that I thought the elephants would have to abseil down and the crossing took about 20 minutes. Soon after that we were once more back in the forest we had been in on the pre-breakfast ride where Ted and Zoe had seen Brown Fish Owl. We decided to look for them again and after some intensive searching DMC and Tricia had brief views of one in flight and excellent views of a perched Brown Wood Owl. It was almost dark when we eventually arrived back at camp ready for a shower and dinner.

Day 7. Sat. 23 Nov. Another misty start to the day as Ted, Zoe and Tricia went for walk around the camp grounds and Pierre and Ginette decided to have another go at finding the Brown Fish Owl, having failed to see it previously. As we were drinking our early morning cup of tea an obliging Jungle Owlet sat close by, appearing as a misty silhouette at first but as the light grew and the mist cleared slightly we could begin to see detail on the bird. During the first part of the walk in the wooded area around the camp we saw a couple of Greater Flamebacks, Large Cuckoo-shrike, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch and White-bellied Drongo. Outside along the fence we watched a Red-breasted Flycatcher and several Olive-backed Pipits, but the best bird was a Brown Hawk Owl roosting in thick foliage. Fortunately it was in a position that allowed us to see it clearly and we admired it with frame-filling scope views. Other birds of interest were a flock of Chestnut-tailed Starlings and four Red Junglefowl, the latter a very attractive species and a good tick, despite its status around the world on the dinner table. When we returned for breakfast we learned that Pierre and Ginette had good views of both the Brown Fish Owl and Brown Wood Owl and continuing the brown theme, they had also seen the roosting Brown Hawk Owl. After breakfast we said goodbye to the staff in the camp and headed for a place known as 20,000 Lakes, a large wooded area with many pools and lakes - as its name suggested. We stopped at a large area of open water that had a good variety of waterbirds, such as Purple Heron, Red-naped Ibis, Bronze-winged Jacana, Cotton Pygmy-goose and Stork-billed Kingfisher. The best bird, however, was Grey-headed Fish Eagle that we looked long and hard for. We were eventually successful on two counts. Firstly, when one was seen flying across the water to perch partly obscured in a tree and, secondly, a little further back along the track when we enjoyed superb views of one eating a fish in a nearby tree. We then began our journey to Machan with a few planned stops to search for Wallcreeper, a species that was proving to be very difficult to find. One such stop involved wading up a river valley at the village of Lother but unfortunately being Saturday there were a lot of locals having barbecues and impromptu discos that probably contributed to our lack of success. We arrived at Machan about mid-afternoon and after we had checked into our rooms we had time for an hours birdwatching, seeing an interesting variety of birds that included Lesser Coucal, Streak-throated and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, Himalayan Flameback, Puff-throated Babbler and Yellow-eyed Babbler.

Day 8. Sunday 24 Nov. A cool start to the day as we assembled for coffee and tea before going on a pre-breakfast walk around the camp. It wasn’t long before we were watching some of the species whose echoing calls we had awoken to such as Lesser Yellow-naped Woodpecker, Himalayan Flameback, Scarlet Minivet, Black-hooded Oriole and a Changeable Hawk-eagle that was sitting on a tall dead tree in the elephant compound. The best species, however, was a pair of Green Magpies that proved to be very elusive at first but with some persistence we gradually got better and better views as we followed them through the forest. After breakfast we spent a short while looking across the river plain from the veranda in front of the camp when we saw a good selection of waterbirds that included Black Stork, Red-naped Ibis and two Woolly-necked Storks that flew along the river bed. A very obliging pair of Collared Falconets were present the whole time we were there moving from perch to perch and every now and then dropping into the vegetation after prey. We then spent the rest of the day in more distant parts of the forest with a break for lunch at the camp. Near to the camp as we walked to the vehicle we saw another Changeable Hawk-eagle much closer than the one earlier and a pair of Black-crested Bulbuls which proved to be the only ones we would see. In the forest Chestnut-bellied and Velvet-fronted Nuthatches and Grey-capped Pygmy and Fulvous-breasted Woodpeckers were seen regularly and amongst the feeding flocks were Common Iora, Greenish Warbler, Western Crowned Warbler, Striped Tit-babbler and Grey-breasted Prinia. We also saw our only Spot-wing Starlings of the tour although it took a while to get a good view of them amongst dense foliage in a treetop. In the afternoon session we saw Blue-throated and Lineated Barbet, White-rumped Shama, White-throated Fantail, Striped Tit-babbler, Striated Babbler, Purple Sunbird, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo and Yellow-eyed Babbler plus a close encounter with a wild Asian Elephant that initially caused a few seconds of panic as we thought it was coming towards us but in the end seemed to be more afraid of us and ran away. We also decided to run away, or should I say drive away, and as dusk was approaching made our way back to the camp.

Day 9. Monday 25 Nov. The whole of the day was to be spent travelling as we headed for Koshi Tapu Wildlife Camp along the east-west highway. The day started with a mixture of cloud and sun with increasing sunshine as we moved eastwards. After an early breakfast we were taken across the Rapti River in the Land Rover to the main road where our bus was waiting for us. We made one or two stops near Hetauda to scan the river in the hope of finding more Ibisbill and along the banks in the hope of finding a Wallcreeper that was proving to be unusually difficult to find. The expected White-capped and Plumbeous Redstarts were present as were five Little Ringed Plovers and a single Kentish Plover, but a flock of 20 Goosander was a little more unusual. Unfortunately we failed to find Wallcreeper and we also drew a blank with Ibisbill although with the latter we would always have the memory of the ones we had seen two days ago. As we continued our journey we stopped occasionally when we saw interesting birds such as a delightful Coppersmith Barbet sitting at the side of the road early on in the trip and a little later several Black-shouldered Kites. We stopped for lunch on the edge of a forest which proved to be a good birding spot heralded by a Greater Racket-tailed Drongo seen only briefly as it flew into the forest. Other species seen here included excellent views of three Black-rumped Flamebacks and six White-rumped Needletails that were a little more difficult to see well as they flew around high above our heads. Not far from Kosi Barrage we stopped at a petrol station and in the garden saw a Purple Sunbird. Although it was a female it was the first time the species had been recorded on our trip. Around the Barrage itself we saw a good selection of waterbirds and some new species that included at least 25 Ferruginous Ducks, fifteen Little Cormorants and a dozen Great Black-headed Gulls. From the Barrage we pushed on to Kosi Tapu Wildlife Camp accessing it along a road passing through several rural villages and when we eventually arrived at our destination we were ready for a shower, dinner and eventually bed.

Day 10. Tuesday 26 Nov. We awoke to a fine sunny morning and the peaceful serenity of the camp and time to look around for a few birds before we had breakfast. The swamp in front of the camp was a good place to start and here we had a good opportunity to compare Great, Intermediate and Little Egrets sitting in the bushes and trees, while flying past were many Open-billed Storks and a Black-necked Stork, a rare breeding species in the area. In the reeds and amongst the vegetation we saw Dusky Warbler, Red-breasted Flycatcher, White-throated Fantail and we could hear the call of Siberian Rubythroat and the raucous singing of Clamorous Reed Warbler, although we would have to wait a day or so before we would actually see the last two species. After breakfast it was time to go rafting down towards the Barrage. It was relaxing as we slowly drifted along on the currents and we were able to get a good view of the birdlife across the wide expanse of water and sand banks. We had comparative views of Little and Great Cormorants as well as Lesser Adjutants, four more Black-necked Storks, Red-naped Ibis and a good collection of ducks which included Lesser Whistling-duck, Ferruginous Duck, Gadwall and Ruddy Shelduck. Occasionally on the banks Sand Larks were seen running along the sand and making short song flights. An immature Great Black-headed Gull flew by, two Black-headed Gulls were at rest on a sand bank and we saw two each of River and Black-bellied Tern. It is traditionally a good area for raptors although in recent years the Vulture populations have fallen and so it was a disappointment when the only species we saw was Eurasian Griffon. We fared quite well with other species of raptor when close to a bank on a dead tree we had excellent views of our one and only White-eyed Buzzard, in flight overhead four Lesser Spotted Eagles and a couple of Short-toed Eagles. Around about midday it had become very hot and the heat was beginning to affect some of us, so we decided to curtail the afternoon part of the rafting and headed for the shade of the trees on the bank.

We had our lunch in the shade whilst Ramesh went on ahead to bring our vehicles to us. Near to our lunch spot were some pools where we saw various waterbirds that included Purple Swamphen, Bronze-winged Jacana and White-breasted Waterhen. In the afternoon we part walked and part drove back towards the camp with our guides riding on the roof, keeping an eye open for anything of interest. Over the reedbeds we saw Western Marsh Harrier and both a male and a female Hen Harrier. Other birds recorded in the afternoon included four Yellow-footed Green Pigeons, two each of Blue-throated and Coppersmith Barbets, Large and Black-winged Cuckoo-shrikes, Dusky, Tickell’s Leaf and Greenish Warblers, Verditer Flycatcher, Black Redstart, White-browed Fantail, Purple Sunbird, Ashy Woodswallows and a small flock of Nutmeg Mannikins. Perhaps the best bird of the day was the rare Swamp Francolin, a globally threatened species, seen in two separate groups of three on the track in front of us, the first of which provided us with excellent views. We eventually arrived back at the camp to a welcome cup of tea/coffee.

Day 11. Wednesday 27 Nov. Another hot and sunny day although unlike the previous day there was a slight cooling breeze. Before breakfast we had excellent views of a Thick-billed Warbler in the swamp in front of the camp, the first of two we would see that day. After breakfast our plan was to slowly make our way down to the Barrage in the four-wheel drive stopping at various locations on the way. The first stop was at a big pool where Black and Cinnamon Bitterns can sometimes be seen. The area over the years had become very overgrown and our view restricted so we cleared some of the vegetation so that we were able to get to the edge of the pool. Ramesh then walked along the edge to see if he could flush a bittern. The plan worked when a Black Bittern suddenly appeared, flew low across the water and disappeared into vegetation. We thought that would be our only views but it did appear again, flying back to its original spot and obligingly perched on the top of the vegetation for several minutes. As we looked around the area we also saw a Striated Heron, a couple of Black-crowned Night Herons and a Paddyfield Warbler which came close to us whilst we were waiting for the bittern. At another area we saw a good collection of grassland birds with two Striated Grassbirds, several Crested Buntings, which included a very nice male, Yellow-breasted Bunting, Black-headed Munia and Common Rosefinch.

At our lunch stop overlooking the Koshi River we saw a flock of 150 Black-headed Ibis, a single Eurasian Spoonbill, over 200 Northern Pintails amongst which were eight Spot-billed Ducks, and in a flock of waders there were five Northern Lapwing, 44 Eurasian Curlew, our only Grey Plover of the tour, four River Lapwings and a Common Redshank. One of the most exciting birds of our lunch break was an adult Imperial Eagle that soared for several minutes not too far away. During the afternoon we continued our drive to the Barrage, stopping just before we reached it to overlook an area of swamp where we saw about 20 Pheasant—tailed Jacanas, six Cotton Pygmy-geese and flocks of ducks that included Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Shoveler and Common and Red-crested Pochard. On the other side of the barrage we spent 15 minutes watching Gangetic Dolphins that showed themselves every now and then as they broke the surface. One of the best birds we saved until the late afternoon when a male Pied Harrier was seen quartering over fields followed a little later by a second that flew past the tower we had been watching from. A Red-necked Falcon also flew past very quickly and was almost past us before we saw it. At ground level we tried to get views of a Siberian Rubythroat that was calling from bushes but the best we could manage was a fleeting appearance as it flew from one bush to another. Late in the afternoon we made our way back to the camp.

Day 12. Thursday 28 Nov. We made an early start with a packed breakfast on a day that was to become warm and sunny. Our destination was Patanali Forest, an area of forest either side of a river that is mostly dry at this time of the year. After we had arrived at our destination we ate our packed lunches and kept an eye open for birds in the treetops. It wasn’t long before a flock of 20 Large Woodshrikes and a smaller number of Scarlet Minivets were flitting around amongst the foliage. After we had eaten we started to walk into the forest and it wasn’t too long before we were straining to see Abbott’s Babbler, Snowy-browed Flycatcher, Grey-bellied Tesia and White-tailed Robin — all were new for our list but proved very difficult and no one person saw all four of them. We continued walking until we found a mixed feeding flock amongst which was a pair of Maroon Orioles, Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo and Golden-fronted Leafbird. Nearby we could hear several Indian Hornbills moving through the treetops so we carefully scanned the canopy above until eventually we found one sitting obligingly on a branch clearly visible through a gap in the foliage. Other species we saw were two Collared Falconets, Western Crowned Warbler, Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker and Common Iora. On the way back, via a different route, we found a pair of Ashy-crowned Sparrow-larks feeding in fallow fields and as we were watching them our presence had attracted the interest of some of the locals and one of their cows. Just before we arrived back at Koshi Camp for lunch we stopped to look at a small flock of Asian Palm Swifts speeding through the air.

After lunch and a rest back at Koshi Tapu Camp we went for a walk along the track in front of the camp and back around through the village. Before we had started we had excellent views of a Clamorous Reed Warbler that we had heard singing on the previous two days in the swamp in front of the camp. This time, however, it posed very nicely on the top of a reed and we were able to scrutinise its finer points. Outside the camp we looked for various birds in the pools alongside the track, finding several Blyth’s Reed Warblers, Common Snipe and a Cinnamon Bittern. The last bird we only saw because of the sterling efforts of Ramesh who literally went wading into the swamp to see if he could get one to appear and although it was only a brief flight view it was sufficient to identify it. One sighting that delighted everyone was that of a superb male Siberian Rubythroat, a species that to date had proved to be extremely elusive and had only given fleeting views. This time it stayed in the same bush for a while, even coming out into the open. We tried hard to find Smoky Warbler but without success and so we made our way back to the camp just as dusk was falling.

Day 13. Friday 29 Nov. A walk near to the camp before breakfast on what was to become another fine and sunny day. Amongst the species we recorded were Black-necked Stork, Coppersmith Barbet, Streak-throated Woodpecker, Black-rumped Flameback, Large and Black-winged Cuckoo-shrikes and a nice male Black Redstart. On the other side of the bank we followed a Wryneck that was a little elusive at first before it settled down to feed on the ground in the open and we enjoyed excellent views of this delightful bird. As we turned back towards the village we came across a pair of Barred Buttonquails in a field and with a bit of stealth we managed to ease ourselves into a position to view them. After breakfast some members of the group went on a tour of the village to see how the locals go about their daily lives whilst the rest of us finished our packing ready for our departure. At mid-morning we said goodbye to the staff in the camp who had served us so well during our stay there and then headed off in the direction of Biratnagar. On the way we stopped briefly to look at three vultures soaring overhead which turned out to be two Eurasian Griffons and a single White-rumped, the latter being the only one we saw during the whole tour. In Biratnagar itself we made a slight detour to see a roost of Flying Foxes before moving on to the airport for our short flight back to Kathmandu. Although a little delayed, the flight took us along the Himalayas and past Mount Everest giving us spectacular views of the mountain. Once back in the Kathmandu Valley we were taken back to Kantipur Temple House, then some of us went on a shopping spree in Thamel just a short walk from the hotel.

Day 14. Saturday 30 Nov. We had an early breakfast after which we departed in two four-wheel drive vehicles in the cool air of early morning Kathmandu on what was to become a pleasantly warm and sunny day and for the second time headed off in the direction of Phulchowki Hill. Our plan was to concentrate on the lower slopes of the forest having looked at the upper slopes during our first visit over a week ago. We hadn’t travelled too far before we had a second chance to see Kalij Pheasant and Grey-winged Blackbird, but a Mountain Hawk-eagle was one we had missed previously and so we were pleased when one was spotted by Shankur soaring overhead. Just over halfway up we repeated the strategy of our first visit by slowly walking back down the hill interspersed with riding in the vehicles. It wasn’t long before we were watching a flock of birds feeding in the trees above us that contained at least twenty Black-faced Warblers, several Ashy-throated Warblers, Green-backed Tit and the quaintly named Mrs Gould’s Sunbird. Much more difficult to see were the various laughing-thrushes that usually revealed their presence by their unusual calls, after which we spent some time carefully peering into the undergrowth in the hope of catching a glimpse of one of them. With a lot of effort we managed to see White-throated, Grey-sided and Rufous-chinned Laughingthrushes, and further down near to the bottom several Striated Laughingthrushes were darting back and forth across the track. At another stop we enjoyed our best views of Red-flanked Bluetail, only brief views of a couple of Red-billed Leiothrix and played a bit of a cat and mouse game with a small flock of Streak-breasted Scimitar-babblers until finally everyone had seen them well. One species we were particularly pleased to see was Green-billed Malkoha (having missed it in Chitwan) when a pair spent some time in a tree beside the track and despite their large size proved quite difficult to see. One of the best feeding flocks we saw we saved until we were nearly at the bottom and fortunately it remained beside the track for a considerable length of time and we were able to see some good birds such as Golden Spectacled Warbler, Black-chinned Babbler, Blue-winged Minla and Rufous-winged and Nepal Fulvettas.

For the final part of the afternoon we visited the Botanical Gardens at Godaveri and despite the large number of day-trippers, due to the fact that it was Saturday, we did manage to add a few good birds. A Scaly Thrush showed well to add to the two seen at Nagarjung on the first day, after which we had a look around the plant houses, not realising the best was yet to come. As we were making our way towards the exit, we found a pair of Grey Bushchats and as we were watching them Shankur’s keen eyes had picked out an Asian Barred Owlet roosting in amongst some trees. This was closely followed by a flock of Asian House Martins flying around directly above us and then high up in the tops of trees a flock of birds contained the diminutive Lemon-rumped Warbler and we spent some time trying to see their lemon rumps to confirm identification — I think we all eventually succeeded. Finally we made our way back to the vehicles and drove back to our hotel when some of the group made a second visit to Thamel.

Day 15. Sunday 1 Dec. We arose early in the morning for breakfast and departure to the airport. On arrival at the airport approach road the security had a quick look inside and checked Shankur’s letter giving him permission to pass with us and we went on through to check-in. It was time to say good-bye to Shankur who had done a fantastic job for us and helped us to see some wonderful birds in his country. It was not too long before we were in the departure lounge and then boarding the plane for take-off. We had our last views of the majestic Himalayas as we flew past them, connected with our flight at Doha and in the late afternoon we landed a little early at Heathrow.

Annotated Species List

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

A total of seven at Koshi.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Fairly common at both locations in Chitwan and good numbers at Koshi.

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger

Fairly common at Koshi with a maximum daily count of over fifty.

Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster

Three at Gaida along the river on 22nd, two at 20,000 Lakes the following day and at Gaida and a total of 29 at Koshi.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Two at Gaida on 22nd, about 15 at 20,000 Lakes and several at Machan.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

Two at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and ten at Koshi on 27th.

Great Egret Egretta alba

A total of seven at Chitwan and 20,000 Lakes and common at Koshi.

Intermediate Egret Egretta Intermedia

Common at Koshi.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

One at Gaida on 22nd, 15 at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and common at Koshi.

Indian Pond Heron Ardeola grayii

A few birds in the Kathmandu Valley and common elsewhere.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Common throughout the tour.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus

One along the river at Gaida on 22nd and one at Koshi on 27th.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

A total of three at Koshi.

Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus

A single bird at Koshi near the camp on 28th.

Black Bittern Ixobrychus flavicollis

A single bird at Koshi on 27th seen in flight twice and for several minutes perched on reeds.

Asian Open-billed Stork Anastomus oscitans

One at Gaida on 22nd, about 20 at 20,000 the following day and very common at Koshi.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra

Recorded in small numbers from 22nd — 28th with a grand total of 22 birds.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

Two at Machan on 24th.

Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus

A total of ten birds seen at Koshi that could have involved the same birds in some instances. Also a nest was seen that contained two chicks.

Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus

A total of five at Chitwan and a total of 19 at Koshi.

Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephala

A flock of 150 on the river at Koshi on 27th.

Red-naped (Black) Ibis Pseudibis papillosa

A total of 85 at Chitwan and a total of 60 at Koshi.

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

A single bird at Koshi on 27th.

Lesser Whistling-duck Dendrocygna javanica

At least 30 at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and a total of 24 at Koshi.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

Common at both locations in Chitwan and also at Koshi.

Cotton Pygmy-goose Nettapus coromandelianus

A single bird at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and six at Koshi near to the Barrage on 27th.

Eurasian Wigeon Anas Penelope

One at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and two at Koshi on 27th.

Gadwall Anas strepera

25 at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd, six at Machan on 24th and good numbers at Koshi.

Common Teal Anas crecca

Four at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and seen in good numbers at Koshi.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

Four at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and seen in good numbers at Koshi.

Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha

Eight birds seen well at Koshi on 27th.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta

A large flock of about 230 birds at Koshi on 27th seen with the previous species.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata

Three at Koshi near to the barrage on 27th.

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

Six at Koshi near to the barrage on 27th.

Common Pochard Aythya nyroca

Ten at Koshi near to the barrage on 27th.

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca

A flock of 25 as we approached the Barrage on 25th and flocks up to 50 birds recorded during the next two days.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula

A single male at Koshi near to the Barrage on 27th.

Goosander (Common Merganser) Mergus merganser

One on the river at Gaida on 22nd and 20 on the Rapti River near Hetauda on 25th.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

One at Gaida on 22nd.

Oriental (Crested) Honey-buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus

A total of eleven birds recorded on six separate dates with records from most areas.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

Three as we travelled to Koshi on 25th and two at Koshi on 27th.

Black Kite Milvus migrans

Common in the Kathmandu Valley and elsewhere recorded in small numbers.

Grey-headed Fish-eagle Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus

Two seen and one heard at 20,000 Lakes on 22nd which included excellent views of one eating a fish in a nearby tree.

White-rumped Vulture Gyps bengalensis

A single bird seen briefly as we travelled to Biratnagar on 29th.

Eurasian Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus

A total of 12 were seen as we rafted down the Koshi River on 26th and two accompanying the previous species as we travelled to Biratnagar on 29th.

Short-toed Eagle Circaetus gallicus

A total of six at Koshi.

Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela

A total of 12 birds recorded in ones and twos on seven different dates.

Western Marsh Harrier Circus aeruginosus

A total of seven recorded at Koshi.

Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus

A male and a female recorded at separate locations at Koshi on 26th were the only records.

Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos

Two recorded in the late afternoon of 27th from the pink tower at Koshi Barrage.

Shikra Accipiter badius

One at Machan on 24th, one as we travelled on 25th and one at Koshi on 27th.

Besra Accipiter virgatus

A single bird at Gaida on 22nd was the only record.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

A female at Koshi on 28th.

White-eyed Buzzard Butastur teesa

An obliging bird sitting on a dead tree at Koshi on 22nd.

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo

One at Nagarjung in the Kathmandu Valley, one as we travelled on 25th and two at Koshi.

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus

One flew over our heads as we returned from Patanali Forest on 28th.

Black Eagle Ictinaetus malayensis

One near to the top of Nagarjung on 19th was the only record.

Lesser Spotted Eagle Aquila pomarina

A total of four as we rafted down the Koshi River on 26th. Note that, since our visit, recent taxonomic announcements have split the resident Asian form as a new species, Indian Spotted Eagle Aquila hastata.

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis

A total of seven in the Kathmandu Valley at the beginning of the tour.

Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca

A superb adult seen at Koshi on 27th.

Changeable Hawk-eagle Spizaetus cirrhatus

A total of three recorded at Machan.

Mountain (Hodgson’s) Hawk-eagle Spizaetus nipalensis

A single bird seen on our second visit to Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Collared Falconet Microhierax caerulescens

Two at Gaida on 22nd, three at Machan on 24th and two at Patanali Forest on 28th.

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni

A total of 32 at Koshi on 27th.

Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

A total of 11 recorded in ones and twos on six separate days along the Terai in the south.

Red-necked Falcon Falco chicquera

A single bird seen briefly as it flew past the pink Tower at Koshi Barrage on 27th.

Peregrine Falco peregrinus

Single birds recorded on 21st as we travelled to Gaida and on 26th and 27th at Koshi.

Swamp Francolin Francolinus gularis

We had excellent views of this rare species along the track at Koshi with a total of 11 birds.

Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus

A small flock of five recorded on two separate dates at Machan.

Kalij Pheasant Lophura leucomelana

Three at Nagarjung on 19th and two at Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Indian Peafowl Pavo cristatus

Recorded on each of our days at Gaida and Machan with daily maxima of six at both locations.

Barred Buttonquail (Bustardquail) Turnix suscitator

A single bird briefly at Machan on 24th and a pair seen much better near Koshi on 29th.

Brown Crake Amaurornis phoenicurus

A single bird seen at Gaida on 23rd.

White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus

One at Gaida on 22nd, one at 20,000 Lakes the following day and fairly common at Koshi.

Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca

One heard only at Koshi on 28th.

Purple Swamphen (Purple Gallinule) Porphyrio porphyrio

A total of twenty seen on two separate days and locations at Koshi.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

Fairly common at Koshi.

Eurasian Coot Fulica atra

Two at 20,000 Lakes on 23rd and fairly common at Koshi.

Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus

A total of 15 seen at Koshi near to the Barrage on 27th.

Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus

Good numbers in pools at 20,000 Lakes and at Koshi.

Ibisbill Ibidorhynchus struthersii

A total of five seen as we travelled to Gaida on 21st with a single bird at Belku and four near the village of Pokare Khola.

Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus

Five at Koshi on 27th.

River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii

Over 20 birds recorded along the river at Gaida and four at Koshi on 4th.

Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus malabaricus

A total of 15 birds recorded on five separate dates.

Grey Plover Pluvialis Squatarola

A single bird recorded at Koshi on 27th was a good record of a vagrant species in Nepal.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubious

Ten along the river at Gaida on 22nd , five along the Rapti River near Hetauda on 25th and a total of twelve at Koshi.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

Two single birds, one at Gaida on 22nd and one along the Rapti River near Hetauda on 25th.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

Two at Koshi near to our camp on 28th.

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata

44 at Koshi on 27th.

Common Redshank Tringa tetanus

Three at Gaida on 22nd and one at Koshi on 27th.

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

12 along the river at Gaida, a couple at Machan and very common at Koshi.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

A total of six at Gaida and a couple at Koshi.

Common Sandpiper Tringa hypoleucos

A combined total of ten at Gaida and Machan, four along the Rapti River near to Hetauda and a total of seven at Koshi.

Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii

A total of seven at Gaida and six along the Rapti River near to Hetauda on 25th.

Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans

An immature bird at Koshi on 27th. Note that, since our visit, recent taxonomic announcements have split the form we saw as a new species, Caspian Gull.

Great Black-headed Gull Larus ichthyaetus

A flock of 12 at Koshi Barrage on 25th and a single immature as we rafted down the Koshi the following day.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

A total of seven at Koshi.

River Tern Sterna aurantia

Two birds as we rafted down the Koshi River on 26th.

Black-bellied Tern Sterna acuticauda

Two birds as we rafted down the Koshi River on 26th.

Rock Dove/Feral Pigeon Columba livia

Common, recorded in good numbers nearly every day.

Oriental (Rufous) Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis

Two at Nagarjung on 19th and a total of 34 at Koshi.

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

About ten as we travelled on 25th and quite common at Koshi fairly common at Koshi

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis

A couple at Gaida, a total of 17 at Machan and common at Koshi.

Emerald Dove Chalcophaps indica

Three at Nagarjung on 19th, two at Gaida on 22nd and two at Machan on 24th.

Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron pompadora

One at Gaida on 22nd and four Koshi on 26th.

Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria

A total of ten birds recorded at Gaida and Machan.

Rose-ringed (Ring-necked) Parakeet Psittacula krameri

Two in the Kathmandu Valley and in the south it was fairly common being recorded every day.

Slaty-headed Parakeet Psittacula himalayana

One heard calling at Machan on 24th.

Plum-headed Parakeet Psittacula cyanocephala

50 at Gaida on 22nd, common at Machan and a total of 15 seen at Koshi.

Green-billed Malkoha Phaenicophaeus tristis

A pair seen near to the bottom of Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis

Five at Gaida, two at Machan and fairly common at Koshi.

Lesser Coucal Centropus toulou

A single bird at Machan and two at Koshi.

Barn Owl Tyto alba

One in the Kathmandu Valley on 19th.

Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis

Two single birds seen from elephant back at Gaida — the two sightings probably relate to the same bird.

Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica

Three sightings in total at Gaida from elephant although there were probably only two birds involved.

Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides

One in the Botanical Gardens at Godaveri on 30th.

Jungle Owlet Glaucidium brodiei

Three at Gaida and one heard calling at Machan.

Spotted Owlet Athene brama

One at Gaida on 22nd and two at Koshi on 26th.

Brown Hawk Owl Ninox scutulata

One found roosting at Gaida on the morning of 22nd.

Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus

One at Gaida on 22nd.

White-rumped Needletail Zoonavena sylvatica

Six at our lunch stop as we travelled to Koshi on 25th.

House Swift Apus nipalensis

Common in the Kathmandu Valley particularly at dusk coming into roost.

Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis

A total of twelve around the village near Koshi Tapu Camp.

Crested Tree Swift Hemiprocne longipennis

Six at Gaida on 25th as we walked to Tented Camp.

Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis

A total of 11 at Gaida and common at Koshi particularly on our day of rafting.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

Five at Gaida on 22nd and a total of 12 at Koshi.

Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis

A total of six seen plus others heard calling at Koshi.

White-breasted Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis

Common at locations in Chitwan and also at Koshi.

Little Green Bee-eater Merops orientalis

Six at Gaida on 22nd, good numbers recorded as we travelled along the east-west highway on 25th and common at Koshi.

Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni

Heard calling at Gaida on 22nd and again in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis

Three as we travelled to Gaida on 21st, a total of three at Gaida, 15 as we travelled on 25th and one at Koshi on 27th.

Hoopoe Upupa epops

A total of five at Chitwan and 14 at Koshi.

Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris

Three in Patanali Forest on 28th which included excellent views of one perched in a tree.

Great Barbet Megalaima virens

Only heard calling at Nagarjung on 19th and on Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata

Four at Gaida, two seen plus others heard at Machan and four at our lunch stop as we travelled on 25th.

Blue-throated Barbet Megalaima asiatica

Three at Nagarjung on 19th, two at Machan on 24th and a total of six at Koshi.

Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala

One near Hetauda as we travelled on 25th and two at Koshi the following day.

Eurasian Wryneck Jynx torquilla

One at Gaida on 22nd and one which showed extremely well at Koshi on 29th.

Streak-throated Woodpecker Picus xanthopygaeus

Two at Machan and one at Koshi on 29th.

Grey-headed (Black-naped) Woodpecker Picus canus

Two at Machan with excellent views of a male from the camp veranda.

Greater Yellownape Picus flavinucha

Two at Machan on 24th.

Lesser Yellownape Picus chlorolophus

One at Nagarjung on 19th, and one at Machan on 24th.

Black-rumped Flameback Dinopium benghalense

Three at our lunch stop as we travelled on 25th and a total of seven at Koshi.

Himalayan Flameback Dinopium shorii

A total of three at Machan.

Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus

A female on the upper slopes of Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Fulvous-breasted Woodpecker Picoides macei

One on Phulchowki on 20th, totals of six at Gaida, ten at Machan, six at Koshi and one in Patanali Forest on 29th.

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis

One on the upper slopes of Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Brown-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos moluccensis

A single bird near to Koshi Tapu Camp was an excellent record for this in the east of Nepal.

Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus

Totals of five at Gaida,13 at Machan and female at Koshi on 28th.

Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus

Two during our early morning walk at Gaida on 23rd.

Ashy-crowned Sparrow-Lark Eremopterix grisea

Two males and a female in fields alongside the Koshi River as we travelled back from Patanali Forest.

Sand Lark Calandrella raytal

A total of 13 at Koshi the majority of which were seen as we rafted down the Koshi River on 26th.

Plain (Brown-throated Sand) Martin Riparia paludicola

Common en route to and at Gaida. Subsequently five at Machan, five as we travelled on 25th and two at Koshi on 29th.

Barn Swallow Hirundo rustica

Good numbers recorded on 22nd, 23rd and 25th and subsequently only two on 29th.

Red-rumped Swallow Hirundo daurica

Common as we travelled to Gaida on 21st and about 20 as we travelled to Koshi on 25th.

Asian House Martin Delichon dasypus

A flock of 20 overhead at the Botanical Gardens at Godaveri on 30th.

Nepal House Martin Delichon nipalensis

One on 21st as we travelled to Gaida and two at Machan on 24th.

White Wagtail Motacilla alba

Two at Belkhu on 21st, a total of 36 at Chitwan and about 30 at Koshi.

White-browed (Large Pied) Wagtail Motacilla maderaspatensis

Three as we travelled on 21st, about 20 recorded at Chitwan with the majority along the river at Gaida and surprisingly just one recorded at Koshi.

Citrine Wagtail Motacilla citreola

A total of three at Gaida and two at Koshi.

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava

One at Koshi on 27th.

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea

Two on the Keste Khola on 21st, one at Gaida on 23rd, one along the Rapti River near Hetauda on 25th and four at Koshi.

Oriental (Paddyfield) Pipit Anthus rufulus

At least five at Gaida as we travelled back to the camp on elephant back.

Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi

Three seen from elephant back at Gaida on the afternoon of the 22nd.

Long-billed Pipit Anthus similis

Two seen from elephant back at Gaida on the afternoon of the 22nd.

Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni

Three at Godaveri on 20th and in the south fairly common.

Rosy Pipit Anthus roseatus

Three seen from elephant back at Gaida on the afternoon of 22nd.

Large Cuckoo-shrike Coracina macei

One at Gaida on 22nd and two at Koshi.

Black-winged Cuckoo-shrike Coracina melaschistos

Two birds recorded on separate days at Koshi.

Long-tailed Minivet Pericrocotus ethologus

Four at Nagarjung on 19th was the only record.

Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus flammeus

Six at Machan on 24th and six in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus

Six at Gaida as we walked to Tented Camp.

Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus melanicterus

Two at Machan on 24th.

Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus

Five at Gaida, Common at Machan and a total of 23 recorded at Koshi.

Himalayan (White-cheeked) Bulbul Pycnonotus leucogenys

A total of nine in the Kathmandu Valley, five as we travelled on 21st and a total of 14 at Chitwan.

Red-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus cafer

Very common throughout the tour.

Mountain Bulbul Ixos mcclellandii

Four at Nagarjung on 19th.

Black Bulbul Hypsipetes leucocephalus

Common at Nagarjung and on Phulchowki Hill.

Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons

Three in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Common Iora Aegithina tiphia

Two at Gaida on 22nd, four at Machan on 24th and two in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Brown Dipper Cinclus pallasii

Two on the Keste Khola on 21st as we travelled to Gaida.

Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush Monticola rufiventris

One at Nagarjung on 19th.

Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius

Two at Lother on 23rd and a female along the Rapti River on 25th.

Blue Whistling Thrush Myiophonus caeruleus

Six at Nagarjung on 19th, one on Phulchowki Hill the following day and two at Machan.

Scaly (White's) Thrush Zoothera dauma

A total of five at Nagarjung on 19th and one in the Botanical Gardens at Godaveri on 30th.

White-collared Blackbird Turdus albocinctus

Four on the upper slopes of Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Grey-winged Blackbird Turdus boulboul

One at Phulchowki on 27th and three on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

(Black-/Red-) Dark-throated Thrush Turdus ruficollis

Two at Nagarjung on 19th, about 40 on Phulchowki Hill on 20th and two at Koshi.

Zitting Cisticola Cisticola juncidis

One heard at Gaida on 22nd and two seen near to Koshi Barrage on 28th.

Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsoni

Fairly common at both Gaida and Machan.

Ashy Prinia Prinia socialis

Three at Gaida on 22nd as we walked to Tented Camp.

Grey-bellied Tesia Tesia cyaniventer

One in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Paddyfield Warbler Acrocephalus agricola

One seen and another heard at Koshi on 27th.

Blyth's Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum

A total of four recorded at Koshi.

Clamorous Reed Warbler Acrocephalus stentoreus

Two seen and one heard (possibly the same bird) in the swamp in front of the camp at Koshi.

Thick-billed Warbler Acrocephalus aedon

A total of four seen and others heard at Koshi.

Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius

A total of six birds recorded on five separate dates and only heard calling on other days.

Common Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita

Three at Koshi on 27th.

Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus

A total of four at Koshi plus others heard calling.

Smoky Warbler Phylloscopus fuligiventer

One seen at Gaida on 22nd and one heard calling near Koshi Tapu Camp on 29th.

Tickell's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus affinis

Two at Gaida, one at Machan and a total of five at Koshi.

Buff-barred Warbler Phylloscopus pulcher

Common on Phulchowki Hill on our first visit on 20th and about twenty on our second visit on 30th.

Ashy-throated (Grey-faced) Warbler Phylloscopus maculipennis

Two on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Lemon-rumped Warbler Phylloscopus chloronotus

A flock of about ten in the Botanical Gardens at Godaveri on 30th.

Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus

Singles on Phulchowki Hill on 20th and 30th and one seen and another heard in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides

Common at Nagarjung and then recorded in smallish numbers nearly every day.

Western Crowned Warbler Phylloscopus occipitalis

One at Machan on 24th and four in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Blyth's Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus reguloides

One at Nagarjung on 19th.

Golden-spectacled Warbler Seicercus burkii

Two on the lower slopes of Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Whistler Warbler Seicercus whistleri

Three at Nagarjung on 19th.

Grey-hooded Warbler Seicercus xanthoschistos

12 at Nagarjung on 19th. On Phulchowki Hill, eight on 20th and ten on 30th.

Black-faced Warbler Abroscopus schisticeps

A flock of about 20 on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris

Only recorded at Koshi with one heard on 26th and two seen on 27th.

Rufous-rumped Grassbird Graminicola bengalensis

One at Gaida on 22nd seen from elephant back in the grassland.

Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher Ficedula strophiata

Seven at Nagarjung on 19th, single birds on Phulchowki on 20th and 30th and one at Machan on 24th.

Red-breasted Flycatcher Ficedula parva

Three sightings of single birds in Chitwan and a total of 16 at Koshi and Patanali Forest.

Snowy-browed Flycatcher Ficedula hyperythra

A single bird recorded in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Verditer Flycatcher Muscicapa thalassina

A total of eight recorded at Koshi.

Small Niltava Niltava macgrigoriae

One being very elusive at Godaveri on 20th.

Pale-chinned Flycatcher Cyornis poliogenys

One heard only at Machan on 24th.

Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis

Ten at Nagarjung on 19th, four at Machan on 24th, five at Koshi, one in Patanali Forest on 28th and five on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope

Heard quite a lot at Gaida and Machan and although we continued to hear it at Koshi we did eventually manage to see three birds one of which showed well.

Red-flanked Bluetail Tarsiger cyanurus

Only recorded on Phulchowki Hill with one on 20th and three on 30th.

Oriental Magpie-robin Copsychus saularis

Seen regularly in ones and twos with a total of 30 recorded during the tour.

White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus

One as we travelled on 21st five seen and others heard in Chitwan and two in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Blue-capped Redstart Phoenicurus caeruleocephalus

A female on the upper slopes of Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Black Redstart Phoenicurus ochruros

A total of five seen at Koshi.

Blue-fronted Redstart Phoenicurus frontalis

A total of five birds recorded during our two visits to Phulchowki Hill on 20th and 30th.

White-capped Redstart (River Chat) Chaimarrornis leucocephalus

Three as we travelled on the 21st, five as we travelled from Gaida to Machan and three along the Rapti River on the 25th.

Plumbeous Redstart Rhyacornis fuliginosus

A total of ten en route to Gaida on 21st, six as we travelled from Gaida to Machan and two along the Rapti River on 25th.

White-tailed Robin Myiomela leucura

One in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Little Forktail Enicurus scouleri

Two on the Keste Khola on 22nd and one at Lother on 24th.

Slaty-backed Forktail Enicurus schistaceus

One on the Keste Khola on 22nd.

Spotted Forktail Enicurus maculates

One at Godaveri on 20th that played a little hard to get.

Common Stonechat Saxicola torquata

One near the airport just after we arrived in Kathmandu on 18th and then in the south seen daily in smallish numbers.

White-tailed Stonechat Saxicola leucura

Four at Gaida on 23rd and a female at Koshi on 27th.

Pied Bushchat Saxicola caprata

A total of ten at Gaida and on the way to 20,000 Lakes, one as we travelled on 25th and a total of three at Koshi on 26th.

Grey Bushchat Saxicola ferrea

A pair in the Botanical Gardens at Godaveri on 30th.

Yellow-bellied Fantail Rhipidura hypoxantha

One at Nagarjung on 19th and one at Gaida on 22nd.

White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis

Two at Nagarjung on 19th, Two at Machan on 25th and a total of six at Koshi

White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola

One at Machan on 23rd and one at Koshi on 26th.

White-throated Laughingthrush Garrulax albogularis

Six on the upper slopes of Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax Leucolophus

Several flocks heard moving through forest at Nagarjung on 19th.

Striated Laughingthrush Garrulax striatus

About five seen flying across the track near the bottom of Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush Garrulax rufogularis

Only recorded on Phulchowki Hill with at least one on 20th and five on 30th.

Grey-sided Laughingthrush Garrulax caerulatus

A flock of about ten on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Abbott’s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti

One playing hard to get was seen by some of the group at Patanali Forest on 28th.

Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps

One at Machan on 24th.

Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus erythrogenys

One heard calling at Nagarjung on 19th but we could not get it to show itself.

Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler Pomatorhinus ruficollis

Only recorded on Phulchowki Hill with four on 20th and another four on 30th.

Scaly-breasted Wren-babbler Pnoepyga albiventer

One at Godaveri on 20th.

Black-chinned Babbler Stachyris pyrrhops

Four at the bottom of Phulchowki Hill in a mixed flock on 30th.

Striped Tit-babbler Macronous gularis

Six at Machan on 24th.

Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata

Six at Machan on 23rd.

Yellow-eyed Babbler Chrysomma sinense

Two at Machan on 24th.

Striated Babbler Turdoides earlei

A total of eight birds recorded in Chitwan.

Jungle Babbler Turdoides striatus

Ten at Nagarjung, 20 at Gaida, and common at Machan and Koshi.

Red-billed Leiothrix Leiothrix lutea

Two on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Blue-winged Minla Minla cyanouroptera

One near to the bottom of Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Chestnut-tailed Minla Minla strigula

Four on the upper slopes of Phulchowki Hill on 20th

Rufous-winged Fulvetta Alcippe castaneceps

About fifteen birds in a mixed feeding flock near to the bottom of Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

White-browed Fulvetta Alcippe vinipectus

Only recorded on Phulchowki Hill with four on 20th and one on 30th.

Nepal Fulvetta Alcippe nipalensis

At least 20 birds on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Rufous (Black-capped) Sibia Heterophasia capistrata

Common on Phulchowki Hill especially on the upper slopes.

Whiskered Yuhina Yuhina flavicollis

Only heard near the bottom of Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Stripe-throated Yuhina Yuhina gularis

Two on Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Rufous-vented Yuhina Yuhina occipitalis

At least 40 recorded on Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Black-throated Tit Aegithalos concinnus

Five at Godaveri on 20th and 20 on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Great Tit Parus major

One at Nagarjung on 19th, common at Gaida/Machan, four in Patanali Forest on 28th and two on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Green-backed Tit Parus monticolus

One on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Black-lored Tit Parus xanthogenys

Only recorded at Godaveri and Phulchowki Hill with ten on 20th and five on 30th.

Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch Sitta castanea

Three at Machan on 23rd, a total of 12 on 25th, two in Patanali Forest on 28th and two on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

White-tailed Nuthatch Sitta himalayensis

Only recorded on Phulchowki Hill with three on 20th and two on 30th.

Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis

Four at Nagarjung on 19th, a total of nine in Chitwan and one on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Purple Sunbird Nectarinia asiatica

A total of eight recorded at Koshi.

Mrs Gould’s Sunbird Aethopyga gouldiae

A superb male on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Green-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga nipalensis

Five at Nagarjung on 19th and four on Phulchowki on 30th.

Fire-tailed Sunbird Aethopyga ignicauda

One at Nagarjung on 19th and two on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker Dicaeum melanoxanthum

One on Phulchowki Hill on 20th.

Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus

One at Nagarjung on 19th and five on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosa

One at Nagarjung on 19th, over 20 in Chitwan, a few as we travelled on 25th and two on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus

Fairly common in all wooded areas and at Koshi with over 30 birds recorded in total.

Maroon Oriole Oriolus traillii

A pair in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus

A total of four in the Kathmandu Valley and a total of 12 at Koshi.

Long-tailed Shrike Lanius schach

Totals of 11 at Chitwan and 12 at Koshi.

Grey-backed Shrike Lanius tephronotus

Two in the Kathmandu Valley, four at Chitwan and six at Koshi.

Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis gularis

A flock of about 20 was seen in the tree tops just after we arrived at Patanali Forest on 28th.

Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus

Six seen during our walk to Gaida Tented Camp on 22nd.

Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus

Common, recorded in good numbers throughout the tour.

Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus

Two at Nagarjung on 19th, three at Machan on 25th, five at Koshi on 27th and one in Patanali Forest on 28th.

White-bellied Drongo Dicrurus caerulescens

Eight at Chitwan and a total of five at Koshi.

Bronzed Drongo Dicrurus aeneus

A total of five at Godaveri and Phulchowki.

Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer

One in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentotus

Fairly common at Chitwan, a few as we travelled on 25th and two in Patanali Forest on 28th.

Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus

One briefly at our lunch stop as we travelled on 25th and one at Koshi the following day.

Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus

20 in the Kathmandu Valley, five on 23rd and fairly common at Koshi.

Eurasian Jay Garrulus glandarius

Single birds recorded on each of our two visits to Phulchowki Hill.

(Red-billed) Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha

At least 15 at Nagarjung on 19th and two on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Green Magpie Cissa chinensis

A total of five birds seen at Machan.

Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda

Fairly common in the south.

Grey Treepie Dendrocitta formosae

Fairly common at Nagarjung and on Phulchowki Hill.

House Crow Corvus splendens

Common throughout the tour.

Large-billed (Jungle) Crow Corvus macrorhynchos

A total of eight in the Kathmandu Valley and common in the south.

Spot-winged Starling Saroglossa spiloptera

Six at Machan on 24th.

Jungle Myna Acridotheres fuscus

Common in most areas.

Common Myna Acridotheres tristis

Very common throughout the tour.

Asian Pied Starling Sturnus contra

Two at Gaida on 22nd and then common at Koshi.

Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus

Over 20 recorded at Chitwan and then fairly common at Koshi.

Brahminy Starling Temenuchus pagodarum

Two at Koshi on 26th.

House Sparrow Passer domesticus

Recorded throughout the tour in daily numbers of about ten or so.

Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus

Very common in the Kathmandu Valley and as we travelled on 21st but not recorded elsewhere.

Nutmeg Munia Lonchura punctulata

A small flock of five birds seen on several occasions in front of the camp at Koshi Tapu.

Black-headed (Chestnut) Munia Lonchura malacca

Eight at Koshi on 27th.

Dark-breasted Rosefinch Carpodacus nipalensis

A female near the top of Nagarjung on 19th.

Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus

Five at Koshi on 27th.

Yellow-breasted Greenfinch Carduelis spinoides

A flock of about 15 flying around on Phulchowki Hill on 30th.

Crested Bunting Melophus lathami

A total of eight seen at Koshi with some excellent views of a couple of males.

Yellow-breasted Bunting Emberiza aureola

Over 50 birds recorded at Koshi.

Indian Flying Fox Pteropus giganteus

Rhesus Macaque Macaca mulatta

Hanuman (Common) Langur Presbytis entellus

Common Jackal Canis aureus

Orange-bellied Himalayan Squirrel Dremomys lokriah

Black Rat Rattus rattus

Yellow-throated Martin Martes flavigula

Indian Grey Mongoose Herpestes edwardsii

Gangetic Dolphin Platanista gangetica

Great Indian Rhinoceros Rhinoceros unicornis

Wild Boar Sus scrofa

Indian Muntjac Muntiacus muntjak

Hog Deer Cervus porcinus

Spotted Deer Cervus axis

Sambar Cervus unicolor

(Wild) Water Buffalo Bubalus arnee

Gharial Guvialis gangeticus

Marsh Mugger Crocodylus palustris