Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Limosa's inaugural tour to China visited two of the most exciting regions this vast country has to offer. With superb birds combined with magnificent scenery, great weather, wonderful food and good company, this tour represents eastern Palearctic birding at its very best. Starting from Xining, Qinghai's provincial capital, our adventure took us to the fabled Koko Nor, a vast lake on the northeastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau. Enshrined in the history of 19th century Asian exploration, the Koko Nor played a pivotal role for the Russians during the Great Game played out by Russia and Great Britain vying for control of trade routes to the Indian subcontinent. In Qinghai we visit some of the wildest and most remote regions in China at a time when the climate remains mild, breeding residents are still present on territory and northern migrants are passing through in good numbers. For the sheer exhilaration of visiting wild, remote places and watching those very special and interesting endemic species birds that so few have seen before, then Qinghai has no peer.

Migration is at its height in early October and there is no better place to encounter this than Beidaihe and nearby Happy Island on China's northeast coast. Long recognised as the most accessible coastal birding sites in coastal China, during the course of the autumn, just about every conceivable eastern Palearctic migrant passes along the coast of China. While it is not possible to see everything in just a few days, it is likely that many of the most sought-after Siberian vagrants to Western Europe will be encountered. Many of these exciting birds come through in such numbers as to ensure that during even a brief stay here, you are almost certain to encounter most of the likely migrants passing over and through the island.

Day 1. Saturday 21 September. With Keith, Lizzie and Jo, accompanied by Peter having left London a day before the main group, we were ready for a spot of light birding in Beijing while the remainder of the group were checking in at London's Heathrow airport. With time to spare in the afternoon, we headed straight for the Summer Palace, a World Heritage Site and undoubtedly still the best place in Beijing to get to grips with the local birds. Being a warm Saturday afternoon, the Palace grounds were very busy but after struggling to get away from the crowds, we got to grips with our first Chinese Pond Herons and Azure-winged Magpies, while a diminutive Grey-capped Woodpecker in the canopy proved to be the only sighting on the tour. Small numbers of migrants were passing through with Sand Martin, Red-rumped and Barn Swallows hawking overhead, while in the undergrowth a couple of elusive Dusky Warblers lurked. As we left the Summer Palace towards dusk, a stream of Amur Falcons moved overhead.

Day 2. Sunday 22 September. Jesper kindly agreed to meet the main group on their arrival at the airport, leaving the early contingent with time for a quick spot of local birding. We opted to return to the Summer Palace where we hoped the crowds would be significantly reduced during the early hours of the morning. En-route, Keith jammed in on a Black-capped Kingfisher perched on a roadside fence, which the rest of us managed to miss. With only limited time available, we returned to the small patches of scrub we visited yesterday and quickly relocated the Dusky Warblers along with a most obliging Olive-backed Pipit. A quick scan of the lake revealed a pair of Mandarin Duck, the drake still in his drab, female-like eclipse plumage. On cue, they gave us a nice fly past, revealing these to be the real thing, and a much rarer bird here in China than it is in some of London's municipal parks. All too soon, it was time to tear ourselves away and meet the newly arrived group at Beijing airport for our flight to Xining, capital of China's vast Qinghai province. The flight departed and arrived much on schedule, but with little time to spare before dusk, we opted for an early night and a pre-dawn start.

Day 3. Monday, 23 September. We left the hotel in darkness at 05:15 and drove to a delightful region of low hills cloaked with dense, evergreen fir forest not far from Xining. As dawn gradually broached the morning stillness, we ate our first breakfast, comprising mooncakes, tooth-breaking 'military' biscuits (doubtless one of China's secret weapons), salami-style luncheon meat and apples, washed down with lashings of coffee. As we ate, flocks of Red Crossbills 'chipped' overhead, although these were barely audible as the local wolfhound attempted to communicate with Brian. With the daylight, we headed into the forest where Jesper quickly found a couple of delightful Snowy-browed (Chinese) Nuthatches. Next came two stunning Przevalski's Nuthatches that repeatedly returned to feed on the fir cones, allowing everyone great 'scope views. We spent much of the morning wandering along an easy contour trail where we were treated to great views of Crested Tit-warbler, a real gem of a bird and a difficult bird to find even within its restricted range. Nearby Gansu Leaf Warblers, White-browed Rosefinches, Red-throated Thrushes and perky Rufous-vented Tits were numerous, while White-throated and Blue-fronted Redstarts were much in evidence as they flitted about the scrub-covered hillsides. With noodles beckoning, we retreated to a restaurant in the small town of Houzihe, stopping en-route to watch Plumbeous Redstarts cavorting in a roadside stream. Lunch took its time to appear as 15 foreigners bedecked with binoculars, telescopes and tripods quickly became the afternoon's entertainment for both staff and customers alike. Then it was on to Bei Shan, the North Mountain, which lies, not surprisingly, just to the north of Xining. These barren, grass-covered hills are home to the localised Sinai Rosefinch and Godlewski's Bunting, both of which were quickly located. A call we all recognised was that of Ring-necked Pheasant, but here in its native range, it takes on greater significance and it was not long before everyone was drooling over the beauty of their first real pheasants; yes, pheasants really do deserve a second look! We also bumped into a couple of coveys of Daurian Partridges, which are on the increase here, perhaps as a result of the re-afforestation project. As dusk fell, we returned to our hotel, well satisfied with a great day's birding.

Day 4. Tuesday 24 September. It was intended that today we would drive onto the Tibetan Plateau itself and we planned for an early arrival at the famous Koko Nor, immortalised in the travels of those great Russian explorers Przevalski, Roborovsky and Koslov. Crossing the Laji Pass at 3,700 metres, we entered a stunningly beautiful snow-covered landscape, entranced in the low dawn sunshine. When travelling in China, it is wise to expect the unexpected and so it was that we soon encountered China's equivalent of the M25 parking lot, but here in the middle of nowhere. As we ate breakfast, accompanied by Horned Larks, Güldenstadt's Redstarts and Robin Accentors, word filtered back that this jam would not be clearing soon. Indeed, it had been there all night and we did not relish the prospect of spending a night aboard the bus in sub-freezing temperatures. Fortunately, Jesper knew just where to go, so we retraced our steps, descended 2,000 metres and by 10:00 we were birding by a small wetland along the banks of the Yellow River at Gui De. During the next few hours, we encountered a delightful mixture of the familiar and the new. Little Grebes, Grey Herons, Red-crested Pochards, Ferruginous Ducks and Moorhens were quite numerous and we knew them well. A juvenile Yellow Bittern that flew low over the reeds got the pulses racing, as did a roadside cuckoo that intrigued us before revealing its underwing pattern to establish it as an Oriental (Horsefield's) Cuckoo. The roadside cliffs and crags held Crested Lark, Crag Martin, Black Redstart, Pied Wheatear, while overhead, a couple of Black Vultures, a Booted Eagle and a very distant, now you see me, now you don't, Wallcreeper kept us entertained. Perhaps best of all was a Chinese Grey Shrike that gave good views before disappearing into the depths of the wetland, never to return. Well satisfied with the roadside, new birds beckoned in the scrub and we soon found ourselves wandering along a maze of hedgerows and tangled scrub-thickets where Red-throated Flycatcher, Hodgson's Redstart, Hume's Warbler, Desert Lesser Whitethroat, Long-tailed Tit, Chinese Hill Warbler, Père David's Laughingthrush, Oriental Greenfinch and Black-faced Bunting kept us entertained. Following a late stop for noodles at 15:00 (this was something we were to become quite accustomed to), we returned to the Laji Pass, where the road was now clear. Although still a bit bumpy in places, we soon got through the worst section and made it to the sealed road around dusk. The final drive to the Heimahe Wildflower Hotel (!) was done in darkness, leaving poor Trevor to fantasise over what could be. This being China, Jesper had wisely commandeered the entire hotel to prevent itinerant truckers from arriving at 02:30 in the morning and awaking us from our slumbers.

Day 5. Wednesday 25 September. With the prospect of unsettled weather in store, we opted to descend into the Zaidam Depression, a high altitude semi-desert lying to the west of Heimahe. With a pre-dawn departure, we were able to enjoy a roadside breakfast, watching the distant lights of Chaka gradually disappear as the sun transformed this bleak landscape into a bewildering myriad of colours and shadows. Distant parties of Bar-headed Geese, Demoiselle Cranes and a Hen Harrier enlivened the morning stillness, while nearby, numerous Desert and Pied Wheatears, Hume's Ground-jays, Citrine Wagtails and Twites entertained us as we listened for the distinctive braying of Henderson's Ground-jay, a little known desert specialist confined to the cold deserts of central Asia. After what seemed like hours of searching, enlivened by small parties of Blanford's Snowfinches and Horned Larks, we eventually found a ground-jay sitting up on a small tuft of scrubby grass. But, true to form, it was not going to stay around for long. In an instant, it was off, racing across the desert like a miniature Roadrunner and disappearing behind even the smallest grass tuft. After leading us on a merry dance, everyone eventually managed to get good views. Then, as we returned to the bus, much as we expected, there they were again, three of them this time, racing along the road and sitting up on the milestones. Just typical. Our other star bird, Pallas's Sandgrouse appeared to have let us down, but as we drove towards Chaka, a distant flock of birds brought us to a screeching halt with cries of 'ting chur, ting chur' (meaning 'stop the coach' in Mandarin). Clearly these were Pallas's Sandgrouse, all 300 or so of them, but hurtling off into the distance. Then directly overhead, following the first, a second party rocketed across the heavens, giving their delightful soft bubbling calls and revealing their distinctive black belly patches and elongated central tail feathers. Good, but we wanted better, and after a few minutes we were rewarded as a party of a hundred or so flew back the way they had come. These were shortly followed by several similar sized parties, which flew around us calling, and then, as if on cue, pitched into the desert scrub not 400 metres from where we were standing. Lucky or what? By carefully approaching across some dead ground, we eventually got to within 50 metres of a large party feeding inconspicuously among the low scrub. Seemingly unperturbed by our presence, we were able to soak up the subtle beauty of their intricate plumage and delicate colour tones for 20 minutes before they decided we had seen enough, and off they went. What incredible birds!

Opting to postpone lunch until a later date, we instead explored the low hills and narrow valleys near Chaka were we soon discovered several male Black Redstarts, both Pied and Desert Wheatears, a small party of Mongolian Trumpeter Finches, several Brown Accentors, an elusive Desert Lesser Whitethroat, while overhead Red-billed Choughs wheeled and 'chowed'. Our return to Heimahe was punctuated with a halt at a roadside shelterbelt, which, when conditions are just right, can prove to be a real magnet for migrants. Unfortunately, the woods were quiet and there was little evidence of overnight migration, while nearby fields were equally devoid of birds. Just as we were leaving, a redstart flitted in front of the coach, disappeared, but soon revealed itself as an exquisite male Przevalski's Redstart, one of the most sought-after birds on the Plateau. We quickly realised he was not alone, and within the space of just a few minutes we had found a further two males and a couple of females. What a wonderful way to end a memorable day.

Day 6. Thursday 26 September. Following breakfast in the courtyard of the Heimahe Wildflower Hotel (!), we briefly viewed the distant shoreline of the Koko Nor where two stately Black-necked Cranes shimmered in the morning light, accompanied by numerous Ruddy Shelduck and many other duck too distant to identify. With his star bird safely under the belt, at least Trevor was happy for the day. We then turned our attention to the mountain birds that had so far eluded us. Even with Jesper's expert knowledge, we would still need to trek into the hills to see these special birds, and with so many mouth-watering birds in prospect, nobody was unwilling to try. After driving to Rubber Mountain (don't ask!) we then walked up a shallow valley, to the accompaniment of passing snow flurries. Birds were initially few and far between, although we hoped that a gathering of Himalayan Griffon Vultures on a nearby hilltop was not in our honour. On reaching the first extensive patch of scrub, we quickly located four Przevalski's Rosefinches, one of which was a cracking male, sporting his long, unwieldy and strikingly pink tail. Nearby, several Brown Accentors scurried through the scrub and a party of Rufous-necked Snowfinches gave nice views. Suitably enthused and reinvigorated, we ascended a broad shoulder into more scrub were Severtzov's Tit-warblers and a migrant Pallas's Warbler were found. On reaching the ridge, we were caught in a fairly heavy snow flurry, and it seemed wise to stay put until it passed over. While doing so, we scanned the scrub below us, finding a small bird party that included a male Przevalski's Redstart and several White-browed Tits, undoubtedly one of the most attractive members of its genus. Another distant Wallcreeper played hide and seek with us, and few people actually managed anything other than glimpsed flight views. As the snow cleared and the sun appeared, so did the raptors. An adult Saker eyed us up as it drifted along the ridge then returned for a second take. This was shortly followed by a Common Buzzard, a couple of Upland Buzzards and a Common Kestrel. Next, an adult Lammergeier was followed by a further five immature birds, which gave crunching views as they drifted below us time and again against the hillside. Now, almost at the top of the ridge and with the sun beating down on us, it was time to press for the summit, which was achieved with relative ease. A passing Chinese Grey Shrike joined us at the prayer flags and another Przevalski's Redstart appeared in the scrub. This was almost too easy and we realised we were being spoilt. Contouring the hillside, we stumbled upon several Oriental Skylarks, four hulking Tibetan Larks and another pair of the delightful Severtzov's Tit-warblers, which after persevering, everyone managed to see well. It was all downhill from here as we descended back into the valley where our coach awaited us. Following lunch, we returned to the shores of the Koko Nor where we spent the last couple of hours taking in the scenery and enjoying the lakeside birds. Duck were particularly numerous and included large numbers of Ruddy Shelduck, Eurasian Wigeon, Northern Pintail and Common Teal, while offshore there were small parties of Great Crested Grebes, Common Goldeneyes and Goosanders. The Black-necked Cranes were relocated in the distance and showed well in the soft evening light, a juvenile Hen Harrier floated serenely by just 50 metres away and several Temminck's Stints fed unobtrusively along the shoreline. Eventually, we found a couple of Hume's Short-toed Larks feeding furtively by the waters edge, while Tibetan Larks were numerous and conspicuous here. For most people, the experience of walking on the Roof of the World was the highlight of their tour, and they would have been disappointed to have missed this, or not to have made it to the upper ridge. Taking it at a gentle pace, as we did, this walk is open to everyone of average fitness.

Day 7. Friday 27 September. Another late start! Returning to Xining, we made our first stop by roadside stubble fields, where a couple of Red-throated Thrushes sitting on roadside wires attracted our attention. Next came several Mongolian Larks flying over the fields, their conspicuous white secondaries flashing against the darker hills but appearing very narrow-winged when seen overhead against the blue sky. Most landed out of view deep in the stubble but the odd one or two perched up and showed well, allowing everyone prolonged 'scope views of this mega lark of the steppes of Central Asia. While all this was happening, wavering lines of birds, distorted by the shimmering haze, appeared over the lake. We knew these were going to be Demoiselle Cranes, as much of the entire population passes through Qinghai in the last 10 days of September. Although we had already seen many distant flocks on previous days, none were as large as this flock, and as they came slowly closer, it became apparent they would pass close to us if we waited. As they approached the shoreline however, they started to pitch down and feed in the lakeside fields. No choice, we walked carefully towards them and enjoyed wonderful views at 300 metres in the crisp morning air. Eventually, in unison, they rose into the air and recommenced their long migration towards the mighty Himalaya, where they would follow Nepal's Kali Gandaki Valley into India to spend the winter. We wished them well. Pressing on to the eastern end of the Koko Nor, we made an enforced halt by a roadside lagoon while road gangs painted yellow dividing lines down the centre of the road, although it was far from clear just what function these would serve. Thankfully, the lagoon was covered with waterbirds, dominated by hundreds of Common Coots. With careful scanning, we managed to locate a couple of distant Red-necked Phalaropes spinning on the water while overhead, White-winged Black and Whiskered Terns hawked insects over the lake, and occasional Great Black-headed and Brown-headed Gulls patrolled the shores. Once clear of this delay, we paused a short distance along the road and opted to take lunch by an attractive marshy inlet. This held an abundance of Red-crested Pochard and lesser numbers of Ferruginous Duck and Common Teal. A pair of Black-necked Cranes with a single youngster was found towards the back of the marsh and nearby, several Père David's Snowfinches gave nice flight views but stubbornly refused to land. Pressing on to Xining, we encountered a huge flock of Daurian Jackdaws in flight near Hung Yuan. Although we tried to track them down, they appeared to land in an inaccessible area that we were unable to reach. However, this delay proved fortuitous as, upon arrival at the hotel in Xining, the fire brigade were in attendance and fire-damaged furniture was being removed. Half an hour earlier and we would have been in the hotel. Jesper's local man, Mr. Liu, quickly sorted us out with a new hotel and we settled back that evening to reminisce on our experiences of the Tibetan Plateau.

Day 8. Saturday 28 September. We made an early start for Laoye Shan, a partially forested hill near Datong and an old stomping ground of Jesper's. We ate breakfast by the side of the summit track, accompanied by wheeling flocks of Red-billed Choughs that seem to fly for sheer enjoyment of flying. As the sun hit the scrub covered hillsides, birds started to appear and we spent the next couple of hours enjoying good bird after good bird. Elliott's and Père David's Laughingthrushes gave nice views, as did a couple of Siberian Rubythroats, several Yellow-streaked and Tickell's Leaf Warblers, Severtzov's Tit-warblers and Rufous-browed Accentors. A single male Black-throated Thrush among the more numerous Red-throated Thrushes was an unusual find, as was a perched Rosy Pipit, which allowed us to compare it with the more numerous Olive-backed Pipits.

As the day warmed up, it was clear that raptors were on the move, so waiting by the coach to see what would happen next seemed like a good idea. And so it proved to be. A juvenile Hen Harrier passed low over the mountain, soon to be followed by a couple of dark morph Booted Eagles, five Common Buzzards, a single Upland Buzzard and an Oriental Honey Buzzard. Next came an immature Golden Eagle that showed superbly as it passed directly overhead. Accipiters were much in evidence as they passed low over the summit and skirted the scrub and, by the end of the morning, we had logged three Eurasian Sparrowhawks and no less than seven Northern Goshawks. A couple of Common Kestrels and a Eurasian Hobby rounded off the morning's total and gave us our first introduction to the excitement of raptor migration in China. On leaving Laoye Shan, we disturbed a covey of six Daurian Partridges, which instead of flying off, lingered in the road just a few metres from the coach, perhaps indicating they are not persecuted heavily here. We ate our lunch of noodles in the same restaurant in Houzihe that we visited some days earlier, although this time we managed to find three Rooks flying overhead. Finally, we returned to Xining and boarded our plane back to Beijing.

Day 9. Sunday 29 September. Much of the morning was taken up with the drive to Beidaihe, enlivened by the antics of Tree Sparrows sliding down the corrugations in the roof of a roadside rest centre. Many birds were behaving in this bizarre manner, repeatedly flying to the top and sliding down, over and over again, with some sliding just a short distance, while others went all the way to the bottom. We were all amazed. We reached Beidaihe at lunchtime but, as the tide was in and the gulls and shorebirds close inshore, we opted for another late lunch so we could run through the gathered masses. Vega Gulls dominated, but a few Heuglin's Gulls, Black-tailed Gulls and Common Gulls were also present along with what appeared to be a 3rd winter Yellow-legged Gull of the form L. c. mongolicus, although this identification was much debated. Kentish Plovers dominated the shorebird scene but by diligently searching through the massed flocks, we managed to find small numbers of Little Ringed, Grey and Pacific Golden Plovers, Whimbrel, Greenshank, Dunlin and Red-necked Stint. Soon the tide receded, apparently taking with it our chances of lunch. With Jesper's first choice for noodles closed for the season and that in the hotel now also closed, we had to summon our driver from his slumbers and persuade him to take us to a restaurant in town, which served some of the best food we had so far encountered. Post lunch, we opted for a gentle stroll along the reservoir, where we found a group of four Mandarin Duck among the more numerous Spot-billed Ducks and Mallard. Herons were much in evidence here and most managed as least a glimpse of Great and Yellow Bitterns in flight, while Chinese Pond Heron and Purple Heron gave themselves up with greater ease. With the fading light, we wandered back to the hotel. Today was Jill's birthday and Jesper's wife, Aiqin, had arranged for an industrial sized birthday cake to celebrate this joyous occasion. Both Aiqin and Daniela, Jesper's delightful daughter, joined us for dinner, the highlight of which was the lighting of a lethal incendiary device posing as a plastic flower, that when ignited, plays Happy Birthday amidst a cloud of billowing smoke and leaping flames. Needless to say, these novel devices were in great demand and now present a serious fire hazard in many homes throughout the UK.

Day 10. Monday 30 September. We made an early start for the Great Wall at Shanhaiguan, which we reached at dawn. Blue Magpies cavorted through the trees before finding a roosting Japanese Sparrowhawk, which they harassed mercilessly. As we slowly climbed the Wall, much visible migration was evident with buntings and thrushes moving overhead in good numbers. A Meadow Bunting appeared briefly in the scrub below the Wall but it took several hours before everyone managed to obtain satisfactory views of this normally showy bunting. While waiting for the calling Chinese Hill Warblers to appear, a trickle of raptors grew into a continuous stream. In the moderate northwesterly wind, it appeared they were following the line of hills adjacent to the lowland plain. During the course of the next two hours we logged 14 species of raptor including three Pied Harriers, two Japanese Sparrowhawks, 39 Eurasian Sparrowhawks, three Northern Goshawks, a Grey-faced Buzzard that conveniently landed in a tree to allow prolonged 'scope views, 207 Common Buzzards, a couple of Spotted Eagles, 10 Common Kestrels, 90 Amur Falcons, 12 Hobbies and a single Saker. We slowly ascended to the upper cable car station and took the cable car back to the bottom, descending the 211 metres in just five minutes, probably the longest 5 minutes of Tom's life!. Here, a flock of Vinous-throated Parrotbills hurried past at point blank range followed by a confiding Radde's Warbler. By late morning when we left Shanhaiguan, Barn Swallow numbers were on the increase but it was not until we returned to Beidaihe in the afternoon that we appreciated the sheer magnitude of this movement. After a quick lunch at the hotel, we headed for the Sandflats where we discovered large numbers of grounded migrants sheltering in the adjacent trees, bushes and reed-filled ditches. Most numerous were Bluethroats, Stonechats, Lanceolated, Black-browed Reed, Dusky and Yellow-browed Warblers along with Black-faced Buntings and an occasional Siberian Rubythroat. Despite these mouth-watering Siberian goodies to tempt us, it was the continuous stream of Barn Swallows across the Sandflats that really grabbed our attention. In the last hour of daylight, migration ceased as Swallows in uncountable thousands gathered in a huge swarm over the reservoir where they appeared as midges in the gathering gloom. An unfortunate Hobby that entered the flock was pursued relentlessly by hundreds of irate Swallows until it departed, swallowless. Gradually, as daylight faded, the entire flock descended to roost in reeds by a fishpond adjacent to our hotel. The actually numbers present this day can only be guessed at, we conservatively guessed at 20,000 but it could have been many more. Another truly amazing spectacle.

Day 11, Tuesday 1 October. China's National Day holiday and a time when the entire country goes on holiday. Fortunately, we missed the worst excesses of this festival as we headed south to Lao Yu Jian and the boat to Happy Island. On the way, we stopped for breakfast at the Salinas, an area of extensive fishponds and lagoons, that are home to numerous ducks and shorebirds. A couple of Slavonian Grebes on the first pool with a single Black-necked Grebe was an unusual find here, and amongst the numerous duck, we located at least 80 Falcated Duck, although try as we might, we could not manage to find any Baikal Teal, although they are often regularly found here. Overhead, a Pechora Pipit called a few times as it rocketed into the distance, while a couple of Caspian Terns drifted lazily by, the juvenile giving a rather pathetically weak piping call compared to the harsh squawk of the adult, and a juvenile Pied Harrier added to the excitement. Moving on to the coast, we reached a small village by the river mouth and almost immediately found our first Saunders' Gull, a nice adult that showed its distinctive upper and underwing patterning as it flew past and dropped onto the sand for all to see well. Jesper then located an adult Relict Gull, and a few minutes later, a second adult flew upriver and conveniently parked itself directly in front of us. Several Gull-billed Terns patrolled the river mouth, appearing similar in size, structure and behaviour to Saunders' Gulls. With these two important target gulls found so quickly, we were able to concentrate on the shorebirds and soon found a few Far Eastern Curlews with several of the almost equally long-billed Eurasian Curlews for comparison. Several Bar-tailed Godwits probed the sand bars, here of the large eastern form baueri that towers above their smaller Black-tailed relatives, of the diminutive eastern form melanuroides. Quite a reversal of size compared to that we are familiar with in Europe. Returning to the Salinas again where Kentish Plovers, Marsh Sandpipers and Greenshanks were particularly numerous, we realised that raptors were on the move again so, instead of travelling further down the coast we watched and waited as raptors steadily trickled by. In the space of the next 90 minutes, 119 Eurasian Sparrowhawks shot past us, many very close and at eye level, along with 13 Common Buzzards, three Eastern Marsh and 11 Pied Harriers, 20 Amur Falcons and single Osprey and Black Kite. A couple of Black Drongos and a large flock of White-cheeked Starlings further spiced up the morning.

So, on to Lao Yu Jian and the boat to Happy Island. Lying just a mile or so offshore, the crossing took just 30 minutes, and on arrival we were transported to our accommodation in electric powered 'golf carts'. Here we experienced the delights of sleeping in

Annotated Species List

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

12 at the Summer Palace on 21/9 & 6 there the following day, at least 25 by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, 3 on fishponds at Beidaihe on 29/10 & 16 there on 30/10, 7 on the Salinas on 1/10. A pair with 2 chicks daily on Happy Island.

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

At least 15 on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and 80 on the eastern lagoon the following day. One on sea off the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9.

Slavonian Grebe Podiceps auritus

Two on the Salinas on 1/10.

Black-necked Grebe Podiceps nigricollis

At least 75 on the eastern lagoon and adjacent marsh at the eastern end of Koko Nor on 27/9 and 4 on the Salinas on 1/10.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Two by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, over 100 near Heimahe at Koko Nor on 26/9 and 50+ on the eastern marsh on 27/9. Over 40 at the Salinas on 1/10 while on Happy Island, totals were 25 on 1/10, 80 on 2/10, 55 on 3/10 and 45 on 4/10

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

One at the Summer Palace on 22/9, 3 by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, 3 by the Koko Nor near Heimahe on 26/9, 13 on the eastern marsh on 27/9, 4 at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 3 there the following day. At least 55 at the Salinas on 1/10 while on Happy Island, daily totals were 30 on 1/10, 40 on 2/10, 20 on 3/10 and 10 on 4/10.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

One in flight over the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9.

Great Egret Ardea alba

Two by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, 2 at Beidaihe in 29/9 and 4 there the following day. Six at the Salinas on 1/10 while on Happy Island, daily totals were 9 on 1/10 and 1 on 2/10.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

At least 15 on fishponds at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 20 there the following day, 8 on the Salinas on 1/10 and 8 on Happy Island, also on 1/10. Finally one or two from the bus near Lao Yu Jian on 4/10.

Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus

At least 6 at the Summer Palace on 21/9 and 1 there the following day, 5 on fishponds at Beidaihe on 29/9 and just 2 there the next day.

Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax

Two immatures at dusk over the fishponds at Beidaihe on 30/9

Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis

An immature by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9 and 4 on the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9. On Happy Island, 2 on 1/10 and singles on 2/10 and 3/10.

Great Bittern Botaurus stellaris

One in flight over the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9, while on Happy Island, 6 in flight at dusk on 2/10 and 1 + another heard, also at dusk on 3/10.

Eurasian Spoonbill Platalea leucorodia

One in the high tide roost on Happy Island on 3/10.

Greylag Goose Anser anser

Four at the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Bar-headed Goose Anser indicus

Over 150 in flight near Chaka on 25/9, 35 by the Koko Nor at Heimahe on 26/9, 40+ between Heimahe and the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and a further 40 by the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor, also on 27/9.

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea

Several hundred near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and an estimated 400 at the eastern end on 27/9.

Common Shelduck Tadorna tadorna

A flock of 65+ in flight near the Salinas on 1/10 while on Happy Island, 18 on 1/10, 30 on 2/10 and 900+ on 3/10.

Mandarin Duck Aix galericulata

An eclipse drake and a female at the Summer Palace on 22/9 and 4 in flight at the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9.

Eurasian Wigeon Anas penelope

At least 500 near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and 100+ on the lagoon and marsh at the eastern end of the lake the following day. At least 5 at the Salinas on 1/10.

Falcated Duck Anas falcata

A minimum of 80 at the Salinas on 1/10

Gadwall Anas strepera

Five at the Summer Palace on 21/9, 6 near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9, 10+ at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 4 on the Salinas on 1/10.

Common Teal Anas crecca

Minimum of 150+ near Heimahe on Koko Nor on 26/9 and 200+ on the lagoon and marsh at the eastern end of Koko Nor on 27/9, 6 on the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9, 23 at the Salinas on 1/10, 5 on Happy Island on 3/10 and 2 there on 4/10.

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos

Scattered individuals totalled 35 at the Summer Palace on 21/9 and 30+ there the following day, 30 by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, 50 near Heimahe on Koko Nor on 26/9 and 20 on the lagoon and marsh at the eastern end of Koko Nor on 27/9, 30 on the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9, 12 on the Salinas on 1/10 and 5 on Happy Island on 2/10 and 4/10.

Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha

The first were 10+ by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, followed by 3 on the marsh at the Koko Nor on 27/9, 15 on the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 140+ on the Salinas on 1/10. On Happy Island, 20 on 1/10, 30+ on 2/10, 25 on 3/10 and 15 on 4/10. All the birds we encountered were of the Chinese form A. p. zonorhyncha, known as the Chinese Spotbill. There is as yet no evidence to suggest that this form hybridises with A. p. haringtoni where their breeding ranges come together in Hong Kong or elsewhere. It seems likely that in the future A. (p.) zonorhyncha may achieve specific status.

Northern Pintail Anas acuta

Over 1000 near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and 150 on the lagoon and marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. Elsewhere, just 2 on the Salinas on 1/10 and 2 on Happy Island on 2/10.

Garganey Anas querquedula

3 near Heimahe on Koko Nor on 26/9, 2 in the marsh at the east end of Koko Nor on 27/9 and 1+ at the Salinas on 1/10.

Northern Shoveler Anas clypeata

At least 150 in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, 2 on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 30/9 and 1 on Happy Island on 2/10.

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina

Up to 15 by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, 3 near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9, and a huge flock of at least 1000 birds in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Common Pochard Aythya ferina

Two near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and at least 500 in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Ferruginous Duck Aythya nyroca

At least 19 by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9 and 60+ in the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula

Two by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, 2 near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and at least 250 on the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Common Goldeneye Bucephala clangula

At least 40 near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and 50 on the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Goosander Mergus merganser

Eight near Heimahe on the Koko Nor on 26/9 and 20 on the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Osprey Pandion haliaetus

A migrant over the Salinas on 1/10.

Oriental Honey Buzzard Pernis ptilorhynchus

Migrants included 2 on 23/9, 1 at Laoye Shan on 28/9, 3 at Shanhaiguan on 30/9 and 1 over the Salinas on 1/10. On Happy Island, 3 on 1/10, 10 on 2/10 and 3 on 3/10.

Black Kite Milvus migrans

Three on 23/9, 2 over Gui De by the Yellow River on 24/9, singles near Chaka on 25/9, over Rubber Mountain on 26/9, over Laoye Shan on 28/9, over Shanhaiguan on 30/9 and over the Salinas on 1/10. All the birds we encountered were of the form M. m. lineatus, sometimes also known as the Black-eared Kite, which some authorities consider may represent a species distinct from Black Kite.

Lammergeier Gypaetus barbatus

An adult, 2 sub-adults and 3 juveniles in flight over Rubber Mountain on 26/9.

Himalayan Griffon Vulture Gyps himalayensis

At least 15 over Rubber Mountain on 26/9.

Eurasian Black Vulture Aegypius monachus

Two distant birds over Gui De by the Yellow River on 24/9.

Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus

Migrants included 4 at Shanhaiguan on 30/9 and 3 at the Salinas on 1/10, while on Happy Island, 4 on 1/10, 2 on 2/10 and 6 on 3/10.

Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus

Ringtails were noted near Chaka on 25/9, 3 near Heimahe on 26/9, a further 2 near the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, 1 over Laoye Shan on 28/9 and 1 over the Salinas on 1/10. Regularly seen on Happy Island with 2 on 2/10 and singles there on 3/10 and 4/10.

Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos

Three passed over Shanhaiguan on 30/9 and 11 were noted over the Salinas on 1/10. On Happy Island, 2 on 2/10 and 1 on 3/10. Most were juveniles but one of the birds on Happy Island on 2/10 was an adult male.

Japanese Sparrowhawk Accipiter gularis

Three at Shanhaiguan on 30/9 included a perched individual that was found and driven off by a party of Blue Magpies. Elsewhere, singles on Happy Island on 1/10 and 4/10, and 1 in the small wood near Lao Yu Jian, also on 4/10.

Eurasian Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus

Recorded daily throughout the tour. Many in Qinghai may have been resident birds but obvious migrants included 3 at Laoye Shan on 28/9, 39 past Shanhaiguan in 2 hours on 30/9 and 119 over the Salinas in 90 minutes on 1/10. On Happy Island 8 on 1/10, 11 on 2/10, 55 on 3/10 and 3 on 4/10 were all migrants.

Northern Goshawk Accipiter gentilis

Seeing Goshawks on migration, well and in good numbers, was one of the highlights of the tour. One over Bei Shan on 23/9 was followed by 7 over Laoye Shan in 90 minutes and 3 over Shanhaiguan in 2 hours on 30/9. Migrants on Happy Island included 3 on 1/10 and 2/10, followed by singles on 3/10 and 4/10.

Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus

A migrant at Shanhaiguan helpfully landed in a tree allowing prolonged 'scope views. Another over Happy Island on 3/10.

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo

In Qinghai, at least 12 on 23/9 and a further 3 at Bei Shan the same day, singles at Gui De on 24/9, over Rubber Mountain on 26/9 and 5 over Laoye Shan on 28/9. Migrants were considerably more numerous on the coast with large numbers passing, including 207 over Shanhaiguan in 2 hours 30/9 and 13 over the Salinas on 1/10. On Happy Island, 2 on 1/10, 1 on 2/10, 27 on 3/10 and 11 on 4/10. All birds belonged to the eastern form B. b. japonicus

Upland Buzzard Buteo hemilasius

Only recorded from Qinghai with 1 near Chaka on 25/9, 2 above Rubber Mountain on 26/9, 4 singles towards the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and one over Laoye Shan on 28/9.

Spotted Eagle Aquila clanga

Two singles, both juveniles over Shanhaiguan on 30/9.

Golden Eagle Aquila chrysaetos

An adult near Chaka on 25/9, 2 adults and an imm. at Rubber Mountain on 26/9 and a juv. at Laoye Shan on 28/9.

Booted Eagle Hieraaetus pennatus

Single dark morph birds were seen over Guide near the Yellow River on 24/9, near Chaka on 25/9, while 2 were together over Laoye Shan on 28/9.

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni

Two over Happy Island on 3/10.

Eurasian Kestrel Falco tinnunculus

Recorded daily throughout the tour, usually singles or two birds together. However 10 over Shanhaiguan were undoubtedly migrants, while other obvious migrants included 4 on Happy Island on 3/10. Many birds, particularly the migrants in the coastal areas were much darker than European birds and were probably of the form F. t. interstinctus.

Amur Falcon Falco amurensis

The timing of our visit coincided with the migration of this attractive species through eastern China. Twelve over the Summer Palace on 21/9 was followed by 90 over Shanhaiguan in 2 hours on 30/9, and 20 over the Salinas in 90 minutes. A further 77 were seen over Happy Island in 2 hours on 1/10, followed by 5 on 2/10, 21 on 3/10 and 11 on 4/10.

Merlin Falco columbarius

One distant bird near Heimahe on 26/9 and a perched juvenile seen by the roadside towards the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. The juvenile appeared much paler than European birds and may have been of the form F. c. pallidus which breeds in western Siberia and Kazakhstan, east to 80°E. However Cheng (1987) only includes F. c. lymani for Qinghai, which is a darker form and probably too dark for the bird we saw.

Eurasian Hobby Falco subbuteo

Widespread in small numbers. Six on 23/9, singles over Gui De the following day and over Laoye Shan on 29/9, 2 at Beidaihe on 29/9, at least 12 over Shanhaiguan in 2 hours on 30/9 and a further 2 at Beidaihe the same day, 2 over the Salinas on 1/10 and singles on Happy Island on 2/10 and 3/10.

Saker Falco cherrug

In Qinghai, a juvenile near Heimahe appeared to be repeatedly stooping at an adult on the ground. Eventually both flew off together. A juvenile gave superb views as it twice passed close to us on the ridge of Rubber Mountain on 26/9, and a distant bird over stubble fields near Koko Nor on 27/9. On the coast, a juvenile at Shanhaiguan on 30/9. Birds of the eastern form F. c. milvipes are quite different from European birds, typically lacking the pale-headed appearance.

Peregrine Falco peregrinus

Two juveniles on Happy Island on 2/10 and 3/10.

Daurian Partridge Perdix dauurica

Numerous on Bei Shan on 23/9 where two coveys of 16 and 23 birds were seen. Similarly, numerous on Laoye Shan where 3 coveys were seen amounting to 42 birds in total.

Japanese Quail Coturnix japonica

Five at Beidaihe on 30/9 was the only sighting away from Happy Island, where there were 4 on 1/10, 5 on 2/10, 3 on 3/10 and 2 on 4/10.

Ring-necked Pheasant Phasianus colchicus

Here in their native habitat, Pheasants become good birds and well worth a second look, even though they remain ridiculously easy to see. Four on Bei Shan on 23/9, seven near Gui De on 24/9, at least 95 on Laoye Shan on 28/9 and 15 at Beidaihe on 29/9. Recorded daily on Happy Island, although this population is derived from captive origin.

Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo

Much of the World population passes through Qinghai during the last 10 days of September and we encountered many flocks, although most were very distant, appearing as long wavering lines against the mountains. These included 200 at dusk on 24/9, 150 near Chaka on 25/9, a further 600 near here later the same day and 57 near Heimahe on 26/7. The only flock we saw on the ground was a group of 650 on the south shore of the Koko Nor on 27/9, which flew in from the north, perhaps having been disturbed from their overnight roost.

Black-necked Crane Grus nigricollis

Two adults at Heimahe on 26/9 and a pair with a well-grown juvenile in the marsh at the eastern end of Koko Nor on 27/9.

Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus

One at the Summer Palace on 21/9, 3 on pools at Gui De on 24/9, 2 at the Salinas on 1/10 and single juveniles on Happy Island on 3/10 and 4/10.

Eurasian Coot Fulica atra

At least 100 on pools at Gui De on 24/9 and over 1000 on the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. On the coast, 4 at Beidaihe on 29/9.

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus

One at the Salinas on 1/10 and 5 flew past the southwest point on Happy Island on 3/10.

Pied Avocet Recurvirostra avosetta

Two in flight over the Salinas on 1/10.

Northern Lapwing Vanellus vanellus

One in flight over the southern shore of the Koko Nor on 27/9 and 3 at the eastern end of the lake, also on 27/9. On the coast, 4 at the Salinas on 1/10, 18 on Happy Island on 2/10 and 1 there on 4/10.

Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva

Nine on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9, 1 at the Salinas on 1/10, 2 on Happy Island on 2/10 and 7 there on 3/10.

Grey Plover Pluvialis squatarola

Four on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9, with 2 there the following day, 5 at the Salinas on 1/10, 21 on Happy Island on 3/10 and 6 there on 4/10.

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius

One on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9, 4 there the following day and 2 at the Salinas on 1/10.

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus

At least 10 on the shore of the Koko Nor near Heimahe on 26/9 was the only record away from the coast. At Beidaihe, the most numerous shorebird with 450 there on 29/9 and 30/9, 30+ at the Salinas on 1/10, 50+ in flight past the boat to Happy Island on 1/10 and 970 on Happy Island on 3/10.

Eurasian Woodcock Scolopax rusticola

Two flushed from the woodland beside the reservoir at Beidaihe on 29/9, 3 flushed from the small wood near Lao Yu Jian on 1/10 and a further 2 there on 4/10.

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

Singles at Gui De by the Yellow River on 24/9 and near Heimahe on 26/9. On the coast, 2 at Beidaihe on 30/9, 2 on Happy Island on 1/10 and 3 there on 2/10.

Black-tailed Godwit Limosa limosa

At least 20 at the Salinas on 1/10. These birds were of the diminutive eastern race L. l. melanuroides.

Bar-tailed Godwit Limosa lapponica

Four at the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10 and at least 27 on Happy Island on 3/10. All were of the large eastern race, L. l. baueri, which shows a darker lower back than the nominate form in Europe.

Little Curlew Numenius minutus

A distant bird in flight over Happy Island on 3/10.

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus

A juvenile on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 2 there the following day. These birds were of the eastern race N. p. variegatus, which shows a variable amount of white on the lower back and rump. Of the 2 birds seen on 30/9, one appeared much as nominate European birds while the other appeared to lack all trace of white on the rump and lower back, thus showing a resemblance to the North American form.

Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata

Three at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 2 there the following day, 8 at the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10, at least 450 on Happy Island on 3/10 and 4 there the following day. All were of the eastern form N. a. orientalis, which usually appears longer-billed than European birds, and some can approach the bill size and structure of Far Eastern Curlew.

Far Eastern Curlew Numenius madagascariensis

One on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and at the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10.

Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus

One near Heimahe on 27/9, 7 at the Salinas on 1/10 and 1 on Happy Island on 4/10.

Common Redshank Tringa totanus

Six by the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis

At least 70 at the Salinas on 1/10

Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia

At least 4 by the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9, 8 on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 4 there the following day, 15 at the Salinas on 1/10 and 5 in flight past the boat to Happy Island, also on 1/10, 1 on Happy Island on 2/10, 50 there on 3/10 and 2 on 4/10.

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus

Two by the Yellow River at Gui De on 24/9, 3 at Beidaihe on 29/9 with 6 there the following day and 1 at the Salinas on 1/10. On Happy Island, 2 birds noted daily.

Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola

One near Heimahe on 26/9 and 4 by the lagoon at the east end of Koko Nor on 27/9. On the coast, 5 at Salinas on 1/10.

Terek Sandpiper Xenus cinereus

A calling bird heard on Happy Island on 3/10.

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos

Singles on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 30/9.

Great Knot Calidris tenuirostris

Five in the high tide roost on Happy Island on 3/10.

Red Knot Calidris canutus

One with Great Knot in the high tide roost on Happy Island on 3/10.

Sanderling Calidris alba

At least 21 past the southwest point of Happy Island on 3/10.

Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis

Four on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 1 there on 30/9.

Temminck's Stint Calidris temminckii

At least 12 by the shore of the Koko Nor near Heimahe on 26/9 and 1 there the following day.

Dunlin Calidris alpina

Eight on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9, 10 there on 30/9, 5 near the Salinas on 1/10 and 200+ past the boat to Happy Island also on 1/10. At least 350 in the high tide roost at Happy Island on 3/10. All birds were considerably longer-billed than European birds and were probably referable to C. a. sakhalina.

Red-necked Phalarope Phalaropus lobatus

Two on the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Black-tailed Gull Larus crassirostris

Ten on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 11 there the following day, at least 50 by the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10 and 6+ from the boat to Happy island, also on 1/10. On Happy Island, 3 on 2/10, 4 on 3/10 and 35+ on 4/10.

Common Gull Larus canus

At least 9 on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 4 there the following day. All birds appeared very similar to birds of the nominate form in Europe and were presumably of the form L. c. heinei.

Vega Gull Larus vegae

Over 120 on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 30/9. A similar number were present by the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10 and 10 were seen on the crossing to Happy Island, also on 1/10. Ones and twos seen daily on Happy Island but 15 in the high tide roost there on 3/10. It is uncertain whether this taxon is specifically distinct from Herring Gull L. argentatus and there are many conflicting arguments. However, this treatment appears to be in the ascendancy at present.

Yellow-legged Gull Larus cachinnans

A much-debated 3rd-winter bird on Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 showed characters associated with L.c.mongolicus.

Heuglin's Gull Larus heuglini taimyrensis

An adult and juvenile on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 10, mostly juveniles and a few second winter birds there on 30/9. At least 14, again mostly juveniles by the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10. Two or three juveniles seen daily on Happy Island. The adult at Beidaihe showed the paler grey mantle associated with the eastern form L. h. taimyrensis, but the racial identity of the juveniles could not be established, although it is probable these were also L. h. taimyrensis.

Great Black-headed (Pallas's) Gull Larus ichthyaetus

At least 18 at Heimahe on 26/9 including adults and juveniles flying over the hotel, and at least 20 by the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Brown-headed Gull Larus brunnicephalus

Six at Heimahe on 26/9 and 10 by the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus

650 on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 250 there on 30/9. On Happy Island, 4 on 1/10, 25 on 2/10, 80 on 3/10 and 10 on 4/10.

Saunders' Gull Larus saundersi

An adult by the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10 was the only record away from Happy Island. On the island, 10 on 1/10, 14 on 2/10, 26 on 3/10 and 6 on 4/10.

Relict Gull Larus relictus

Two winter plumaged adults by the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10.

Gull-billed Tern Sterna nilotica

At least 10 by the river mouth near the Salinas on 1/10 and 14 at the southern end of Happy Island on 3/10.

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia

At least 18 at the Salinas on 1/10, while on Happy Island, 6 on 2/10, 10 on 3/10 and 2 on 4/10.

Common Tern Sterna hirundo

An adult, still in full breeding plumage on the Sandflats at Beidaihe on the late date of 29/9 belonged to the black-billed form S. h. longipennis.

Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybridus

At least 15 over the marsh at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus

At least 10 over the lagoon at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Pallas's Sandgrouse Syrrhaptes paradoxus

An estimated 500 birds seen both in flight and at rest in semi-desert east of Chaka on 25/9 gave superb views on the ground down to 50 meters.

Feral Rock Dove Columba livia

Recorded most days near habitation, but absent from Happy Island.

Hill Pigeon Columba rupestris

A minimum of 20 en route to the Koko Nor on 23/9, at least 86 near Chaka on 24/6, one in the hills above Heimahe on 25/9, 2 near Heimahe on 25/9 and 26/9 and 35 at Laoye Shan on 28/9.

Oriental Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis

Four at Gui De on 23/9 was the only record away from the coast. Elsewhere, 10 at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 30/9, 25 near Lao Yu Jian on 1/10, while on Happy Island, 5 noted on 1/10, 10 on 2/10, 6 on 3/10 and 15 on 4/10.

Eurasian Collared Dove Streptopelia decaocto

One by the roadside on the south side of the Koko Nor on 27/9.

Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis

At least 10 at the Summer Palace on 22/9, 1 in Beijing on 29/9 and 1 on Happy Island on 2/10.

Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus

A juvenile on roadside wires at Gui De on 24/9 showed the characters of the northern race C. s. horsfieldi.

Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia

One seen briefly in the small wood near Lao Yu Jian on 4/10.

Little Owl Athene noctua

Two en-route to the Koko Nor on 24/9, 1 near Heimahe on 26/9 and 2 at the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. On Happy Island, singles noted daily.

Short-eared Owl Asio flammeus

One flushed from a scrub-covered bund near the southern end of Happy Island on 3/10 landed briefly on the open mudflats before returning back to cover.

Grey Nightjar Caprimulgus indicus

One in flight at dusk on Happy Island on 2/10.

Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata

One perched by the roadside en-route to the Summer Palace in Beijing on 22/9.

Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis

Two at the Summer Palace on 21/9 and 22/9, 2 on pools at Gui De near the Yellow River on 24/9, 3 at Beidaihe on 29/9 and 1 there on the following day, I at the Salinas on 1/10 and 1 daily on Happy Island.

Hoopoe Upupa epops

On Tibetan Plateau, 1 en-route to Heimahe on 24/9, at least 10 from Chaka to Heimahe on 26/9 and 1 in roadside stubble fields east of Heimahe on 27/9. On the coast, 1 at the Salinas on 1/10, 2 on Happy Island on 1/10 and 2/10, and 1 on 3/10.

Wryneck Jynx torquilla

One on Happy Island on 4/10

Grey-capped Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus

A male at the southern end of the lake at the Summer Palace on 21/9 was the only record.

Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus

A juvenile male in the small wood near Lao Yu Jian on 4/10 was a late and unexpected record.

Great Spotted Woodpecker Dendrocopos major

Singles at the Summer Palace on 21/9 and 22/9, 1 at Beidaihe on 29/9 and singles in the small wood near Lao Yu Jian on 1/10 and 4/10.

Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus

Heard at the Summer Palace on 22/9 and near Gui De on 24/9. Two seen briefly in trees by the Beidaihe reservoir on 29/9.

Tibetan (Long-billed Calandra) Lark Melanocorypha maxima

Four seen well during our walk on Rubber Mountain on 26/9 but more numerous by the Koko Nor where an estimated 40 were present in grasslands by the lake on the same evening.

Mongolian Lark Melanocorypha mongolica

At least 42 in roadside stubble fields between Heimahe and the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. Most were singles or pairs seen in flight, with the occasional small group of up to 7 individuals. Most quickly disappeared into the stubble when they landed but 2 did perch up, allowing everyone good 'scope views.

Hume's Short-toed Lark Calandrella acutirostris

Most were seen in flight and identified on call. These included 2 near Chaka on 25/9, 4 over Heimahe on 26/9 and at least 20 between Heimahe and the eastern end of the Koko Nor on 27/9. Fortunately, 3 birds showed well on the ground by the Koko Nor in the evening of 26/9.

Asian Short-toed Lark Calandrella cheleensis

Difficult to see well and most were seen in flight and identified on call. These included 3 near Chaka on 25/9 and singles over Happy Island on 2/10, 3/10 and 4/10. Three birds at the Salinas on 1/10 landed on the bund and gave tantalising views as they ran between patches of low vegetation.

Crested Lark Galerida cristata

Two by the roadside at Gui De on 24/9 were remarkably pale individuals and probably referable to the form G. c.

Brambling Fringilla montifringilla