Limosa - Birdwatching and Wildlife Hoildays Worldwide

Trip Report

Day 1. Wednesday, 5th February. Mike's plans to book in early and get rid of his suitcase were scuppered when he found that almost the whole group were so eager they were there half an hour early! All checked in, we eventually boarded our Virgin Atlantic overnight flight and winged our way south.

Day 2. Thursday, 6th February. We arrived pretty much on time at Johannesburg this morning and, despite a lengthy hike through the airport, we eventually met up with Ian, found our vehicles and wove our way out through the traffic. We had decided to get clear of the metropolis before starting to bird, but Common Mynas quickly caught our eye as we headed out onto the autoroute and north to Pretoria. While Ian cleared up the final paperwork for Kruger, a bit of roadside birding among the high rise blocks revealed a variety of swifts and swallows overhead, including Rock Martin and African Palm and Little Swifts. Back on the road, we headed through an open expanse of cultivated grasslands, until we pulled in to a service station for a picnic lunch. Here we dined al fresco, while scoping our first Amur Falcons, Greater Striped Swallow, Southern Masked Weavers, Cape Sparrows and Black-throated Canary.

Pushing on, we travelled into higher and more pristine grassland, with a few Protea cafra bushes turning up. The highest point we achieved was Steenkampsberg Pass at 1951m. Indeed, the nearby hills reach 2330.90m, the highest point in the Transvaal. At the pass, a birding stop provided few birds, but each one a gem. A few Malachite Sunbirds flashed by, but the prize was a super Gurney's Sugarbird gracing the Protea flowers. A territorial cisticola here gave us some head-scratching and turned out to be a Wailing Cisticola. We also found our first Blesbok, before taking the downward run into Lydenburg. A quick petrol stop provided our only Common Swift of the trip, but greater things were awaiting us. Ever north on the highveld, we eventually reached the Drakensberg scarp and the small but impressive gorge at Abel Erasmus Pass. Here, Ian had a special treat for us. Above the stalls selling wonderful African artwork, we found our quarry, a wonderful Taita Falcon and met Michael who is doing his best to protect the birds from rock-climbers and egg collectors. The road took us down the scarp and provided marvellous views of the Drakensberg from the Olifants valley. We were now down in the low bushveld country, but the day was drawing to a close. Our first Grey Go-away-bird, Eastern Paradise-whydah, Yellow-fronted Canary and Blue-breasted Cordon-bleu were all indicators of what was to come, as were a variety of mysterious raptor silhouettes heading for roost sites! It was dark by the time we reached Tzaneen and headed up into the hills at Magoebaskloof. Ian's bus managed a Barn Owl before we got to our hotel around 7.30pm, having driven some 520km - phew!

Day 3. Friday, 7th February. Despite the long day yesterday, there was a good turn-out for the 6am pre-breakfast walk around the hotel grounds. As the light gradually filtered through, we enjoyed watching Eurasian Hobbies hunting insects overhead, to be joined by Greater Striped and White-throated Swallows. In the bushes, a Southern Boubou called but remained elusive, but both Sombre and Yellow-streaked Greenbuls were more helpful and we also added Cape White-eye, Cape Robin-chat and three Greater Double-collared Sunbirds. Fried breakfasts started a trend that was to continue throughout the tour - good food, and lots of it! We were back out by 8am and heading for the nearby Woodbush Track. The forest reserve here preserves a wonderful habitat of evergreen forest, with trunks draped in mosses, lianas and epiphytic orchids, all on steep valley sides, giving superb views across the tree tops. Parties of Cape White-eyes were everywhere and groups of Olive Pigeons crisscrossed overhead. We were soon onto mixed feeding flocks and enjoying the likes of Grey Cuckooshrike, Olive Woodpecker, Black-fronted Bush-shrike, Cape Batis, Forest Canary and Square-tailed Drongo. A couple of Terrestrial Brownbuls and a Lesser Honeyguide were more elusive but we all enjoyed Yellow-throated Woodland Warbler after something of a chase, and a Crowned Eagle cruised over, putting fear into the local Blue Monkeys. It had been a busy morning and we returned happy to the hotel for lunch, pausing to enjoy a roadside Long-crested Eagle and European Roller.

The break extended into an afternoon siesta for some, while others took the precarious trail down to the waterfall. Garden birding also provided a female Grosbeak-weaver, Horus Swift, Black Saw-wing and Common Waxbill among others. We reconvened at 4pm and drove down hill towards Tzaneen, passed fields of wonderful white lilies, to pick up the Woodbush track at its lower end. Passing through forest blocks of various Mahoganies, Eucalypts and Podocarpus falcatus, we paused here and there for roadside birds, some of us picking out a couple of Red-billed Firefinches, Drakensberg Prinia and an obliging Tambourine Dove. Birding proved hard work this afternoon, epitomised by the persistent calling of Buff-spotted Flufftail, seemingly endless calling Blue-mantled Crested Flycatchers and the back end of a couple of Lemon Doves. But there were birds to enjoy, not least of which was a splendid Olive Bush-shrike, then a wonderful pair of Mountain Wagtails on the little stream on the way.

Day 4. Saturday, 8th February. One or two species had been notable by their absence yesterday, so we decided on an early morning return to the Woodbush Track. With coffees arranged for 5am we were refreshed and headed off in the dark. As the first shafts of light began to appear, we found our first bird in the headlights - a juvenile White-starred Robin, foraging on the main track. A Red-chested Cuckoo called but remained hidden, but we were soon out and enjoying Bar-throated Apalis, Forest Canary, Yellow-streaked Greenbul, Black-backed Puffback, Knysna Turaco and singing Sombre Greenbuls, the latter seemingly everywhere. Our nemesis today, however, was to be the dreaded Orange Ground Thrush. We heard them singing, we saw branches move, we may even have felt the wind on our faces when their wings moved, but could we see one? Well, Mike put in a dodgy claim! Maybe it was just a plot to get Don to make a fourth visit to South Africa! As compensation for this, we did turn up a pair of Grey-headed Parrots which appeared to be a little south of their expected range. Raptors were the order of the day on the return, as we enjoyed a full diving display from a Crowned Eagle, two Mountain Buzzards flashed past us and we puzzled over an indigobird - white bill, pink legs, must be a Variable Indigobird (or is it Dusky?!).

With breakfast suitably tucked away, we loaded up the vehicles and headed down the hill to Tzaneen. From here, a short drive to Duiwelskloof allowed for another petrol stop. Hawk-moth corpses and rescuing a Praying Mantis from a nearby (occupied!) police car occupied our time before a quick visit to the supermarket for water, then on again, heading north out of town, then turning northeast to Giyani. On further from here, we tried desperately to keep going and make good our travel time, but couldn't resist a quick stop for a pair of Brown Snake-eagles, perched like two bin liners atop a roadside pylon. Punda Maria gate finally arrived and shopping quickly took pride of place. Passing through into the Kruger National Park, we were immediately struck by the difference; outside the park, degraded habitats of stunted bushes and almost bare ground showed the results of overgrazing by farm stock. Inside the park, the grasses were immediately lush and green, the bushes taller and full of leaf. It was difficult pushing on to camp for lunch. We soon bumped into Levaillant's and Jacobin Cuckoos, Fork-tailed Drongos and a super Martial Eagle. Lunch finally saw the light of day (but not for long!) and was punctuated by an array of birds visiting a nearby drinking pool: Common Waxbill, Jameson's Firefinch, White-throated Robin-chat, Southern Black Tit, African Pygmy Kingfisher and others. Meanwhile, nearby fruiting figs attracted Black-collared Barbet, Violet-backed Starlings and Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starlings.

Rooms sorted (and a bit of shopping done) we took a late afternoon cruise along the local loop - although we were destined not to get very far! Birds were plentiful and gave us a good insight into what the next day would bring as we enjoyed Comb Duck, Natal Francolin, African Jacana, Red-faced Mousebird, Striped Kingfisher, Southern Yellow-billed Hornbill, Lilac-breasted Roller and White-browed Scrub-robin. We also had our first encounters with the local elephants - some a little close for comfort - and also met up with the huge Mopane Moths.

Day 5. Sunday, 9th February. It may be a Sunday (I don't think we realised that at the time!) but no-one seemed to want a lie-in. Up at 5.30am we walked the camp grounds, starting with an African Goshawk that called from the top of a dead tree. It was a little quiet until we headed into the camping ground and a showery spell (despite Don's umbrella!) dropped a number of hirundines and swifts down. Wonderful Lesser Striped Swallows sat in the trees while Little and White-rumped Swifts and House Martins busied overhead. The bushes were also busy with Willow Warbler, Spectacled Weaver, Blue-breasted Cordon-bleu, Long-billed Crombec and a host of others all present. Breakfast at 07.00 was well received and we departed for Pafuri by 8.20am with a promise to try harder not to stop on the way. We did quite well, although the likes of Arrow-marked Babbler, Gabar Goshawk, Southern Carmine Bee-eater, Rufous-crowned Roller, Black-crowned Tchagra, Magpie Shrike and Sabota Lark seemed worth at least a quick look. At Pafuri we first took the Nyala Loop and a number of raptors tested the suppleness of our necks: White-backed Vulture, Wahlberg's and Verreaux's Eagles, Black-shouldered Kite and Little Sparrowhawk were all seen, as well as the likes of Yellow-bellied Greenbul, Golden-breasted Bunting, Meves's Glossy Starling and wonderful White-fronted Bee-eaters. Four-legged beasties showed well too, with plenty of Greater Kudus and Nyalas to enjoy, as well as the ever-present Impala.

Our next stop was the bridge over the Luvuvhu river where we were allowed to get out of the vehicles (Leopard's apparently don't like crossing bridges!!). There was a mass of activity to enjoy here; more of the two bee-eater species seen earlier, three White-crowned Lapwings, Marsh Sandpiper, two African Fish Eagles, Striated Heron and a Golden-tailed Woodpecker among others. We continued to Pafuri for lunch, with nice views of the river from a shady spot. A wander around the site also provided at least some of us with the likes of Purple-crested Turaco, Pied Kingfisher, Chinspot Batis, Terrestrial Brownbul, Collared Sunbird and a wonderful Little Sparrowhawk bathing in the river. Leaving the camp around 3.30pm we continued east along the river for a while and found a wonderful flock of African Open-billed Storks, as well as Three-banded and Blacksmith Plovers, Water Thick-knee, Goliath Heron, Spur-winged Goose, two Hooded Vultures and four African Fish Eagles. We also got blasted by the bizarre wailing calls of a couple of Trumpeter Hornbills. We expected the drive back to be fairly uneventful, but there was more to enjoy. A female Red-crested Bustard, Little Bee-eater, three Comb Ducks by a small pool and a flock of 14 Wattled Starlings were all seen. But tops for rarity value was Arnott's Chat, sitting in a Mopane stand right beside the road.

Day 6. Monday, 10th February. Today was perhaps a little disorientating as we began our mammoth drive south through the fabulous Kruger. Departing at 5.30am with only the tiniest whiff of a grumble, we rolled out of camp in a light drizzle. A ground Hobby sat atop a dead tree and occasional Red-backed Shrikes lined the route, along with Swainson's Francolin, Purple Indigobird and small parties of Wattled Starlings. Hooves abounded too, and we added a couple of smart Klipspringers, two Giraffes and a voluminous herd of African Buffalos, complete with Red-billed Oxpeckers. An absolute delight was the discovery of a party of some 40 bachelor Eastern Paradise-whydahs, living life on the very edge! The weather had soon improved and we crossed the river and into Shingwedzi camp at 09.00, picking up African Open-billed and Saddle-billed Storks on the way in, as well as a group of Helmeted Guineafowl with three Dwarf Mongeese in tow (or is it mongooses?!). The camp provided us with our first African Mourning Doves and Lesser Masked Weavers, as well as a good breakfast in another room with a view.

Shopping done, we saddled up and drove out, only to return to fill up with petrol, allowing more time to play with Mopane Moths, and to watch how Smith's Bush Squirrels deal with them! No sooner were we out of the gate and heading along the riverside, than we were stopping for a Verreaux's Eagle Owl which I think we all eventually managed to see. The likes of Woodland Kingfisher, Crested Francolin and Pied Cuckoo enlivened the next stage of the journey and a party of five Woolly-necked Storks, followed by a single Black Stork passed overhead. Our next treat was a photo opportunity at the Tropic of Capricorn. How wonderful we all thought, that there just happened to be a convenient boulder to hold the plaque. Until we went round the back that is, and discovered the name of the makers!! Photos done, we continued to Mopani camp for lunch. Food ordered, we wandered down the boardwalk for panoramic views of the lake formed by a dam on the Tsendze river. Osprey, African Fish Eagle, White-breasted Cormorant (steady John!!) Pied Cormorant, Little Stint, Curlew Sandpiper and Ruff were all found, as well as a snoozing flock of White-faced Whistling-ducks. The highlight at the camp itself was the family group of Mocking Cliff-chats which were very friendly and obliging. In the car park, a group of Arrow-marked Babblers had some of us scurrying into bushes for a look before we were on the road again. A short diversion to a waterhole showed it to be dry, but provided us with a nice Montagu's Harrier, as well as a real tusker of an elephant, surely worthy of enrolment as one of the magnificent seven. Our road trip threw up an interesting array of other goodies too, including Grey Tree Frog, two Black Mambas (one of which passed right through the middle of a flock of road-perching Barn Swallows) and endless hordes of Dung Beetles in the elephant pavement pizzas. Reaching the Letaba river crossing, we stopped to scan and found a few Marabou Storks and a Giant Kingfisher, before continuing the short distance to Letaba Camp. What a delight this was, with beautiful Red-headed Weavers nesting, a Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike brightening up the petrol station and herds of Bushbuck mowing the lawn.

Despite fears of getting lost in the dark, we all managed to make it to the dining area without bumping into too many Bushbucks. But the day was not over. We headed out at 8pm for a two-hour organised night drive, circuiting round on the local dirt tracks. After staring with a Springhare, bounding along like a little kangaroo, mammals turned out to be something of a damp squib and we didn't manage to find any predators. However, for us, the nightjars were entertainment enough and we managed to identify three different species: Fiery-necked Nightjar, with its buffy neck collar; Square-tailed (or Mozambique) Nightjar, with its all-white outer tail feathers and well-spotted wing coverts and European Nightjar which made up everything else. The experience of seeing eyes glinting in the dark and disappearing into the dark made us realise just how tenuous life must be for the animals of the Kruger.

Day 7. Tuesday, 11th February. A 6am walk round the camp proved popular and we started by surveying the wonderful Letaba River. Yellow-billed and Marabou Storks, African Spoonbill, Water Thick-knee and Long-tailed Cormorants were all before us, while in the nearby bushes, Common Bulbuls and Red-faced Cisticolas lurked. A circuit of the camp grounds gave more goodies including Kurrichane Thrush, Sulphur-breasted Bush-shrike, Spectacled Weaver, African Paradise Flycatcher and a very showy White-browed Scrub-robin. We were also joined by three Natal Francolins that wandered around with us, but had trouble using the scope! Back at the river, a large herd of buffalo had come down to drink - it was time for breakfast.

Refreshed and ready for the off, we took the dirt roads south. Things were a little quiet for a while, although we nevertheless enjoyed what was on offer, including Lilac-breasted and European Rollers, a wonderful juvenile Martial Eagle and at least four Red-crested Bustards - as well as all those dung beetles. Before long we were at Olifants camp and a coffee stop seemed in order. This was a coffee stop with a view, as the camp perches on a high cliff overlooking the Olifants river. Dozing Hippos and a Goliath Heron, plus two fly-by European Golden Orioles were the highlights here before we continued our grand tour. Back on the dirt roads we were soon pulling up for what turned out to be a Common Scimitarbill, although it remained elusive. A couple of Giraffes on the roadside just had to be photographed and enjoyed, before a low chuntering in a bush turned out to be an Olive-tree Warbler but, as is so often the way with the beast, it refused to show. It was the same story with a second one a little later on. This proved to be a popular area with zebra and wildebeest too, the latter having on or two youngsters in tow. Back on the main road we made good time, pausing only for our first Burchell's Glossy Starlings, although we were to see plenty of these over the next couple of days.

Arriving at Satara camp - each one seems to be ever bigger than the last - we settled straight down to lunch, accompanied by Greater Blue-eared Glossy Starlings, Lesser and Southern Masked Weavers, Southern Grey-headed Sparrows and a Red-billed Buffalo-weaver - a busy table! After lunch (and shopping) we took a siesta period, although some were distracted by a bull elephant gobbling up Marula fruits, a female Bennett's Woodpecker and a persistent fledgling Black-backed Puffback begging from its parents. An early log-call ensured we were ready in time for our sunset drive at 5.30pm. The evening comings and goings produced much to see with fine views of a Tawny Eagle, male Montagu's Harrier, a Scrub Hare, two Ostriches and a party of five Senegal Lapwings. As the light started to fade, a pair of Water Thick-knees with two chicks walked onto the track, then Nicola produced one of the trip highlights with an adult White-backed Night Heron, standing in all its glory on a rock in a small stream. A Common Duiker flashed across in front of us and a Black-backed Jackal lurked near by, the first of three seen in total. Nightjars again became a feature,, with the same three species seen as last night, but the absolute highlight just had to be the three female Lions that paced purposefully past us, seemingly on a mission. The driver anticipated their movements perfectly and we were parked up in position to watch the last one walk right past the vehicle, across the track and down through a gap to cross the river at a regular crossing point. All was finally rounded off back on the main road with the discovery of a small python, most of us being brave enough to have a quick feel!

Day 8. Wednesday, 12th February. Our final full day in the Kruger National Park started like any other, with a walk around the camp before breakfast. But each camp has its own little idiosyncrasies, and Satara was no exception. The lack of grass and acres of bare mud gave it a strange feel, but birds were nevertheless plentiful. Our first newcomer was a wonderful Groundscraper Thrush, but this one was perched atop a high tree - surely a skyscraper thrush then! Horus Swifts were overhead and we were able to spend time checking through the finer points of Southern Masked Weavers. Another three Groundscraper Thrushes rooted through the leaves in the back corner and a Crested Barbet sat up in full view for as long as we wanted to look at it. Grey Go-away-birds roamed around in little parties and a commotion in the bushes finally revealed a wonderful Pearl-spotted Owlet, drawing a mobbing party of Southern Black Tits, Fork-tailed Drongos and others. A White-throated Robin-chat popped up and was followed by some rather distant Green Woodhoopoes and two fly-over Brown-headed Parrots. Ian was determined we should see African Scops Owls. A search of some regular spots drew a blank, but Ian's skill and guile would win the day - we asked the gardener!! This proved a simple solution; instead of searching the whole camp, he took us straight to a roosting bird - right outside the main entrance in the car park! Breakfast beckoned again.

By 09.35 we were decamped and continuing our southward safari. Our first stop overlooking the little N'wanetsi river provided us with a couple of Black Crakes and two Malachite Kingfishers, followed by three Speckled Mousebirds and a group of four Green Woodhoopoes. We then took a detour to view a Baobab Tree! This actually proved fruitful as Peter spotted a movement which turned into a Slender Mongoose. Between here and lunch we enjoyed another run of nice birds, including Black-crowned Tchagra, Lesser Grey and Magpie Shrikes, two Brown Snake-eagles, two Little Bee-eaters and a couple of Yellow-breasted Apalises (or is that Apali?!) Lunch arrived in the form of a picnic at Tshokwane. Greater Blue-eared Starlings swarmed everywhere and the occasional Yellow-billed Kite loomed overhead. More welcome was the shade as temperatures were now soaring, but even here there were things to buy and the ice-cream man did a roaring trade - another Magnum for Don! After lunch we headed straight for the Nkumbe viewpoint. Here on the edge of the Lebombo Mountains which form the eastern border of the Kruger NP, we had a fabulous panorama to enjoy. Careful scanning also revealed several White Rhinos lurking in the landscape. Beyond here we found a party of eight Ostriches, a fly-over Black Stork and the likes of Malachite Kingfisher, Namaqua Dove, Wattled Lapwing and African Pipit. The dirt tracks around here also provided several Lesser Grey Shrikes, our first Dideric Cuckoo and a fine perched Montagu's Harrier. We eventually arrived at the Sabie river, where baboons entertained us on the bridge (and Mike entertained them!) then we made the short hop into Skukuza, biggest of the Kruger camps and the park headquarters - and the biggest shop in the Kruger....

Day 9. Thursday, 13th February. One of the longest days of the trip began with a busy pre-breakfast session overlooking the Sabie River. African Green Pigeons warbled overhead as we watched a plethora of Hadada Ibises, Striated Herons, Black Crakes and assorted bishops and whydahs. An African Black Duck flew in and a Red-faced Cisticola and Tawny-flanked Prinia posed for close scrutiny. Breakfast beckoned yet again. After stoking up on food and stoking up the vans with baggage there was time for a quick bit of birding in the grounds. A pair of Bronze Mannikins were breeding in an old weaver nest, a calling Yellow-fronted Tinkerbird posed for scope views and other goodies included Golden-tailed Woodpecker, two Bearded Scrub-robins and a Sombre Greenbul. In the meantime, John was in the shop (!!) and discovered a nice colony of epauletted fruit bats eavesdropping. Finally we were on the road, after a petrol stop and a White-throated Robin-chat, and the old routine began for the final time as we pulled up for a super Violet-eared Waxbill, male Amur Falcon and a party of five Crested Francolins which crossed the road - presumably to get to the other side! We popped into the Afsaal picnic spot for a quick comfort stop, then the final leg, which turned up a perched Tawny Eagle, two Swainson's Francolins and a nice White-headed Vulture. By 11.15 we had reached the exit gate at Malelane and reintroduced ourselves to the novelty of getting out of the vehicle to birdwatch! We scanned the Crocodile River and found Saddle-billed Stork, Wattled Lapwings, African Jacana and a Purple Heron. Stunning Southern Red Bishops also caught our eye, before we pushed on, turning south and up into the grasslands and eucalyptus plantations of the highveld, passing Barberton and over the Nelshoogte Pass at 1554m. Just beyond here we stopped for an Al fresco lunch at Grootkop, overlooking the Vygeboom reservoir. It was all too hot really and the shade of the vehicles seemed the best place to be. Those who braved the sun found a few birds, including a showy Red-collared Widowbird, Brown Snake-eagle, Orange-throated Longclaw and Cinnamon-breasted Bunting.

We made up a few more miles before our next roadside stop overlooking a lake between Warburton and Chrissiesmeer. Birds abounded here and it was hard to tear ourselves away. In particular, we made our first acquaintance with the avian bumblebee, Yellow-crowned Bishop - what a star! Here too were Intermediate Egret, Whiskered Tern, Yellow-billed Duck, Red-knobbed Coot, Sacred and Glossy Ibis, Levaillant's Cisticola and a flock of some 120 Ruff. A little further on, a larger lake on the left looked worthy of a good scan, but time was pressing. Checking from the vehicles, we nevertheless found some goodies. Single Lesser and Greater Flamingos seemed too good to be true and we also found White-backed Duck, Great Crested Grebe, three Cape Shovelers and a wonderful African Snipe, showing its dark upperparts and scaly chest. From here on, grasslands dominated the scene and Amur Falcons began to increase until they became a more or less permanent fixture, including a single flock of 110 birds at one point. We passed through Amersfoort (with a quick refuel) and set our sights on journey's end. However, one stop just had to be made - for a flock of at least 1000 Black-winged Pratincoles which presented a truly awesome sight as they wandered the field and hawked in great packs overhead. Here too we spotted a Lanner on the ground as we pulled up, perhaps having just caught one of the unfortunate pratincoles. With time really pressing now, everything else could wait, although three Southern Bald Ibises did cause brief stops. A long day, but our arrival at the Weaver's Nest made it all worth while as we were greeted with Irish charm and hospitality by James and sat down to a wonderful evening meal.

Day 10. Friday, 14th February. Early morning in the hotel grounds provided many with their first good views of Speckled Pigeon, African Pied Starling and, for some, the elusive local Bokmakierie. We also enjoyed a fly-by by a pair of Grey Crowned Cranes. The weather looked a bit daunting as we set out on a pre-breakfast sortie in search of the region's specialities. Dideric Cuckoo and several Yellow-crowned Canaries were found, but the most amazing sight was the sheer number of Cattle Egrets heading out from roost sites for the day's foraging. Passing out of town we stopped for a Lesser Kestrel and found Zitting Cisticola, Common Fiscal Shrike, African Stonechat and Banded Martin to be quite common. Showy Orange-throated Longclaws sat on fence posts and we managed to find a Yellow-breasted Pipit - although the streaky youngster didn't meet expectations, having seen pictures of flashy adults! The weather worsened, and rain closed in for a while. Not ideal for singing larks and pipits! We cruised along slowly, enjoying whatever came our way, but in the end decided to turn back and check out the Wakkerstroom Vlei, an internationally famous wetland reserve. The weather eased and we were able to enjoy a mass of birds. Both Southern Red and Yellow-crowned Bishops were abundant and just couldn't be ignored. A Giant Kingfisher flew by and ducks included Yellow-billed Duck and Southern Pochard. Purple Swamphen, African Snipe, Cape Weaver and several African Reed Warblers were all found and South African Cliff and White-throated Swallows flew around the bridge. We even spotted three Cape Clawless Otters hunting out in the main lake.

Breakfast time! Ready for the off again, the rain had now stopped, but the wind had picked up a little. We headed for the Zaaihoek Dam, on the way finding Cape Wagtail, a couple of Southern Bald Ibises and another Lesser Kestrel. At the dam, we followed the road down to the bridge that crosses the stream just below the dam. Despite the wind, we did well here. A couple of family parties of Buff-streaked Chats and a Mountain Wheatear were on the nearby rocks and, after a bit of a chase, we finally had good views of several Drakensberg Prinias. Ian pulled one of the star birds out of the bag with the discovery of three Ground Woodpeckers. We also added a couple of adult Jackal Buzzards and a Mountain Reedbuck, while around the bridge, a wide range of hirundines allowed us to compare the various species. Our final bird here was a Rock-loving Cisticola nest-building. The return drive provided Southern Anteater-chat, three Red-winged Starlings and a rather brief female Cape Rock Thrush. Time to eat again already!

Our afternoon tour took us past the wetland reserve and up the dirt tracks to the northwest of town. We did well on this drive and found some

Annotated Species List

(Total - 346 species)

Common Ostrich Struthio camelus

Two on the Satara sunset drive on 11th and eight south of Tshokwane on 12th.

Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis

One in the Pafuri area on 9th. Around Wakkerstroom, one on 14th and five or so on 15th.

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus

One on a lake beyond Warburton on 13th.

Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo

Two on the lake at Mopani on 10th and at least four at Zaaihoek Dam, Wakkerstroom on 14th. The form involved may soon be split as White-breasted Cormorant P.lucidus.

Long-tailed Cormorant Phalacrocorax africanus

Noted in small numbers daily from 10th, max of 30+ on 14th. Much to John's delight!

Darter Anhinga melanogaster rufa

A singleton seen at Wakkerstroom Wetland Reserve on 14th/15th.

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Two to six almost daily from 9th with small numbers scattered at wetland sites.

Black-headed Heron Ardea melanocephala

One on the drive on 6th then a small scattering on lakes in the Wakkerstroom area, max of six on 14th.

Goliath Heron Ardea goliath

What a corker! One to two daily from 9th to 13th with some excellent views obtained.

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea

An immature at the bridge over the Crocodile River at Malelane Gate on 13th.

Great (White) Egret Ardea alba

A small scattering at wetland sites with max of six on 11th.

Black Egret Egretta ardesiaca

Three flew along the river at Letaba on 11th.

Intermediate (Yellow-billed) Egret Egretta intermedia

Three at a roadside lake near Warburton on 13th and one or two singles on the drive on 15th.

Little Egret Egretta garzetta

Just one on the river at Letaba on 11th and four on the Sabie River on 12th.

Cattle Egret Bubulcus ibis

Seen almost daily. Particularly abundant around Wakkerstroom where flights to and from roosts where a delightful part of the scenery.

Striated Heron Butorides striatus

Daily from 9th to 13th at Kruger wetlands, including at least 10 at Skukuza on 13th.

Black-crowned Night-heron Nycticorax nycticorax

A group of 11 birds seen in flight at the Wakkerstroom Wetland Reserve on 15th.

White-backed Night-heron Gorsachius leuconotus

Great spotting by Nicola! A superb adult standing out on rocks at a little stream during our evening drive from Satara on 11th.

Hamerkop Scopus umbretta

Small numbers on just four dates, scattered throughout, but most on the Kruger wetlands.

Yellow-billed Stork Mycteria ibis

Six on the river at Letaba on 11th, with another singleton later the same day.

African Open-billed Stork Anastomus lamelligerus

Fabulous views on the Luvuvhu River around Pafuri, where around 50 birds on 9th. A small scattering elsewhere with 10+ on 10th and one on 11th.

Black Stork Ciconia nigra

Singles in flight north of Mopani on 10th and south of Nkumbe viewpoint on 12th.

Abdim's Stork Ciconia abdimii

Brief views of a flock of some 40+ birds in a roadside field on the drive on 6th.

Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus

A group of five flew over us between Shingwedzi and Mopani on 10th.

White Stork Ciconia ciconia

Over 30 birds at a roost near Wakkerstroom on 14th and four seen on the drive on 15th.

Saddle-billed Stork Ephippiorhynchus senegalensis

Wonderful birds. Small numbers on the Kruger rivers with four on 10th, two on 11th and one on 13th. Best views of birds near Shingwedzi camp.

Marabou Stork Leptoptilos crumeniferus

One near Punda Maria on 8th then daily from 10th to 13th with max of 30+ on 10th.

Sacred Ibis Threskiornis aethiopicus

One near Warburton on 13th, three at Wakkerstroom on 14th and 10 or so on the drive on 15th.

Southern Bald Ibis Geronticus calvus

A pair and a single on the drive on 13th then some 30 birds on 14th around Wakkerstroom including a single flock of 23 birds

Hadada Ibis Bostrychia hagedash

Widespread. Small numbers in the north but progressively more common as we headed south with a day count of 50+ at Wakkerstroom on 14th.

Glossy Ibis Plegadis falcinellus

Three on a lake near Warburton on 13th and two on the drive on 15th.

African Spoonbill Platalea alba

Five on the river at Letaba on 11th and three at Wakkerstroom Wetland Reserve on 15th.

Greater Flamingo Phoenicopterus roseus

A singleton on a lake near Warburton on 13th.

Lesser Flamingo Phoenicopterus minor

A singleton on a lake near Warburton on 13th. (Must be a fix!)

White-faced Whistling-duck Dendrocygna viduata

A group of 14 on the lake at Mopani on 10th, 12 flew along the Letaba River at Letaba Camp on 11th and one on a lake near Warburton on 13th.

White-backed Duck Thalassornis leuconotus

One on a lake near Warburton on 13th and five or so on a small lake just outside Suikerbosrand NR on 15th.

Egyptian Goose Alopochen aegyptiacus

Noted daily from 9th at many wetland sites.

South African (Cape) Shelduck Tadorna cana

A pair at Wakkerstroom WR on 15th were a pleasant surprise.

Spur-winged Goose Plectropterus gambensis

Three on the river at Pafuri on 9th, two at Letaba on 11th, a scattered total of around 15 birds on 13th and two in flight on 15th.

Comb Duck Sarkidiornis melanotos

A single immature near Punda Maria on 8th. On 9th, five at a small waterhole and one in flight in the Punda Maria/Pafuri area.

African Black Duck Anas sparsa

One flew in and landed on the Sabie River at Skukuza camp on 13th.

Yellow-billed Duck Anas undulata

Common in the Wakkerstroom area with good numbers at many of the wetlands in the region.

Hottentot Teal Anas hottentota

Just one seen at Wakkerstroom wetland reserve on 14th and 15th.

Cape Shoveler Anas smithii

Three seen by some of the group on a lake near Warburton on 13th.

Southern Pochard Netta erythrophthalma

Just one female seen at Wakkerstroom wetland reserve on 14th.

Two at the lake at Mopani on 10th.

Black-shouldered Kite Elanus caeruleus

Widespread in small numbers, although seemingly absent from the southern end of Kruger NP. Max day count of five on 6th.

Black (Yellow-billed) Kite Milvus (migrans) parasitus.

Widespread but not numerous, with max day count of just three on 11th and 12th.

Some wonderful views of a great bird. One to six daily from 9th to 13th, mostly involving adult birds.

Hooded Vulture Necrosyrtes monachus

Scarce. Two on 9th, one on 10th and two on 12th, all soaring birds over the Kruger NP.

White-backed Vulture Gyps africanus

Small numbers soaring around the Kruger NP with six on 9th, three on 10th and one on 11th. Also a flock of some 20 birds seemingly homing in on a kill on 12th.

Lappet-faced Vulture Torgos tracheliotus

A single adult showed all too briefly as it cruised away near the Sabie River on 12th.

White-headed Vulture Trigonoceps occipitalis

An adult female soared away from us in the southern Kruger NP on 13th.

A rather distant adult seen between Mopani and Letaba on 10th.

A small scattering with one to three on five dates from 8th to 13th, including two perched together on a roadside pylon west of the Kruger NP on 8th.

Excellent views daily from 8th to 13th with max of 10 on 10th and 11th.

In Kruger NP, a first-winter male on 10th, adult male on 11th and a perched first-winter female on 12th.

One flashed past us on the drive to Pafuri on 9th and another was seen by some of the group on 12th.

One heard calling but not seen at the Woodbush Track, Magoebaskloof on 8th. Another calling and seen well before it flew off at Punda Maria Camp on 9th.

A wonderfully tiny raptor. A juvenile seen on the Nyala loop at Pafuri on 9th, then a near-adult bathing in the river at Pafuri Camp on 9th.

A real monster! A big, dark sub-adult female cruised over near Wakkerstroom on 14th.

A few scattered records in upland areas with max day counts of 5+ around Wakkerstroom and Magoebaskloof.

A tricky one to pick out, but two seen as they shot through a clearing on the Woodbush Track on 8th. These birds may be split as Forest Buzzard Buteo tachardus.

A juvenile at Steenkampsberg Pass on 6th and two cracking adults at Zaaihoek Dam, Wakkerstroom on 14th.

Tawny Eagle Aquila rapax

Small numbers in Kruger NP with one to three daily from 9th to 13th. A mixture of both dark and pale birds seen.

Wahlberg's Eagle Aquila wahlbergi

One briefly in the late afternoon as we drove towards Tzaneen on 6th, then singles noted daily around Kruger NP from 8th to 12th with max of four on 10th.

Verreaux's Eagle Aquila verreauxii

A superb pair showed all too briefly over the kopjes on the Nyala Loop at Pafuri on 9th.

Martial Eagle Polemaetus bellicosus

Some fabulous views of both flying and perched birds around Kruger NP. Singles daily from 8th to 12th with two on 11th.

Long-crested Eagle Lophaetus occipitalis

What a star! One posed at close range on a roadside telegraph pole at Magoebaskloof on 7th. Other flight views suggested at least two and perhaps three in the area.

Crowned Eagle Stephanoaetus coronatus

Fabulous views of a pair at Magoebaskloof on 7th and 8th, including a wonderful aerial display.

Two in the southern Kruger NP on 10th, two at Wakkerstroom on 14th and one on 15th.

Just two seen on the drive day on 6th. Local birds may be split as a new species, Rock Kestrel F.rupicolis.

A female was found perched on wires with Amur Falcons near Wakkerstroom on 14th. This species normally winters further west, but occasional wanderers get caught up in movements of their sibling species.

One of the highlights of the trip was the spectacular flocks of this species around Wakkerstroom. Parties seemed ever-present, perched on fence wires and telephone lines, often allowing close approach. Also a few seen north of Pretoria on the first day. Single groups of up to 200 birds were noted in the evenings.

Wonderful views of up to 12 birds hunting early morning and dusk around the Magoebaskloof Hotel. Also singles in the Kruger NP on 9th and 10th and one at Wakkerstroom on 14th.

One just west of the Kruger NP on 8th and one hunting pratincoles near Amersfoort on 13th.

Wonderful views of one at a nest site at Abel Erasmus Pass on 6th. One of Africa's most enigmatic birds, this was a real bonus, having only been found breeding in South Africa for the first time some 10 years ago.

Two singletons seen on our drive through Kruger NP on 13th.

One to five on four dates in Kruger NP. Pairs often sheltering in roadside shade and giving excellent views.

Heard or seen daily around the Kruger NP from 8th to 13th. A little elusive at first, but seen well at Letaba where one or two followed us on our pre-breakfast walk and contributed to waking up the neighbours!

Seen daily from 9th to 15th, usually in pairs sheltering in the shade under roadside bushes.

One heard calling near Wakkerstroom on 14th.

One seen briefly by some as it flushed beside Ian's bus in the Kruger NP on 9th.

Scattered sightings on seven dates, mostly in the Kruger NP where small parties where seen regularly.

A pair at Wakkerstroom on 14th and 15th flew along the valley passed our hotel each morning and fed in fields on the edge of town.

Groups of four and three near Wakkerstroom on 14th and a pair there on 15th. All cranes are great, but there's something extra special about this one.

Heard calling from dense undergrowth on the lower Woodbush track at Magoebaskloof on 7th. This bird has no physical form, it exists merely as a sound in the distance!!!

Heard calling in a small stream in Kruger NP on 11th. Two on our drive through Kruger NP on 12th and another two on the river at Skukuza on 13th.

Up to five at Wakkerstroom Wetland Reserve on 14th and 15th. A split of the various forms of swamphen is likely at some point. The present form madagascariensis would become Green-backed or African Swamphen.

Singles at Wakkerstroom WR on 14th and 15th.

Common around Wakkerstroom in all suitable lakes and ponds.

A speciality of the Wakkerstroom highveld where we eventually found three fabulous birds on 14th.

In Kruger NP, a female on 9th, a total of four on 11th and one on 12th. Great views of a calling bird under a roadside bush - but we never did see the red crest!

Unfortunately time was against us with this one. Several heard calling near Suikerbosrand NR on 15th but little time for a proper search.

One on a small pool near Punda Maria on 8th, two on the drive through Kruger NP on 10th and one on the Crocodile River at Malelane on 13th.

Just a single bird seen on the river at Letaba on 11th.

Two at Pafuri on 9th then a scattering of birds at Kruger wetlands from 11th to 13th with max of 15+ on 13th.

What an amazing sight! At least 1000 birds in a field between Amersfoort and Wakkerstroom on 13th. Also a party of 43 birds seen near Wakkerstroom on 14th.

A party of six at Johannesburg on 6th, then seen daily in Kruger NP and around Wakkerstroom.

A party of three birds on the Luvuvhu River at Pafuri on 9th.

A party of five birds seen on the sunset drive from Satara on 11th.

Small numbers around Kruger NP with a max of 10 on 11th. Small numbers also seen elsewhere in suitable habitat from Wakkerstroom to Johannesburg.

Two in grassland near the Nkumbe viewpoint on 12th and one on the Crocodile River on 13th.

Small numbers daily from 9th to 13th at Kruger wetlands, max of 5+ on 13th.

Easily identified when there are no other species to worry about! Small numbers daily in the highveld area with one on 13th, six on 14th and one on 15th.

Just a single bird seen, on the Luvuvhu River at Pafuri on 9th.

A scattering at wetlands from 10th to 14th with max day count of 6+ on 11th.

Noted daily from 8th to 14th at wetlands throughout. Max day count of 15+ on 13th.

Just small numbers at wetland sites with four on 9th, two on 10th, two on 11th and five on 13th.

Singletons at Mopani on 10th and Letaba on 11th.

Two at Mopani on 10th were the only ones.

Singletons at Mopani and Letaba on 10th and 11th. A flock of around 120 on a lake near Warburton on 13th.

One seen by Peter at Letaba on 11th (sometimes it pays to lie in!), one at a lake near Warburton on 13th and two at Wakkerstroom on 14th.

Just small numbers seen around Johannesburg and Pretoria. The species struggles in rural Africa where, presumably, there are too many other pigeon species for it to find a niche.

Widespread in small numbers around towns and villages in the highveld.

Parties were quite common in the forests around Magoebaskloof but usually flying high overhead so not easy to enjoy fully.

Two seen rather briefly on the lower Woodbush track on 7th.

Common and widespread in Kruger NP, especially around the camps. Grey head and pale yellow eye.

Widespread in small numbers but often only occasional pairs. Rather dark over all with a pale forehead and dark red eye.

Common and widespread, noted every day. The purring "Work harder" call is a classic sound of the African bush and often woke us up in the Kruger.

Common and widespread. Noted daily and commonest in the low bushveld around Kruger NP.

One or two daily from 6th to 12th, but hard to get a good look at. Often just a pair of ginger wings scattering from the roadside.

Two seen along the Woodbush track at Magoebaskloof on 7th.

Surprisingly scarce, but a total of four seen in Kruger NP on 12th.

A great-looking bird with a surprisingly silly call! Great views of birds in fruiting figs at the Kruger camps, especially at Skukuza on the morning of 13th.

A surprise find of two along the upper Woodbush track at Magoebaskloof on 8th. The taxonomy of this group is a little complicated. The form seen is currently considered a subspecies of Brown-necked Parrot P.robustus but is likely to be split into three species in the future: Brown-necked Parrot P.fuscicollis, Grey-headed Parrot P.suahelicus and Cape Parrot P.robustus.

Despite the name, this species has a grey head! In Kruger NP, heard calling but not seen on 9th, three flew over the road as we drove on 11th and two at Satara pre-breakfast on 12th.

Around 10 birds on 7th and five on 11th, all in the Magoebaskloof area, with some great scope views.

Sadly elusive and not seen by everyone. Brief singles at Pafuri on 9th and Skukuza on 13th.

Grey Go-away-bird Corythaixoides concolor
One seen flying across the road just beyond Abel Erasmus Pass on 6th, then seen daily around the Kruger NP from 8th to 13th. Some wonderful close views around the camps.

Nice views in the Kruger NP with two near Punda Maria on 8th, one on 9th and two on 10th.

Good views for some of a bird perched by the road near Punda Maria on 8th. Streaky-throated, longer-tailed and longer-crested than Pied Cuckoo.

Heard calling on the upper Woodbush track at Magoebaskloof on 8th.

One in the Kruger NP on 12th. Around Wakkerstroom, at least two on 14th and one on 15th.

Skulking but eventually seen well. In the Kruger NP, one on 9th, one on 10th and at least three on 12th. Burchell's is generally lumped as a form of White-browed Coucal Centropus superciliosus. Although the forms look very different, it is believed that genetic differences in the forms affect the development from juvenile to adult plumage. White-browed Coucals exhibit a permanent juvenile plumage state, whilst Burchell's develops a full adult plumage, strongly resembling Senegal Coucal of northern Africa. There is said to be a zone of gradation between White-browed and Burchell's Coucals which is the reason for the two often being considered a single species.

One seen by some on the after-dark drive as we climbed up to Magoebaskloof on 6th.

One of the highlights of the trip. The gardener kindly put us straight onto one perching right outside the main entrance at Satara camp on the morning of 7th. Like a little pointy-eared elf!

Eyes were extremely sharp on 10th when one was found in a riverside tree at Shingwedzi and another distant bird seen sitting out in full view later the same day. One was calling at dawn at Skukuza on 13th.

At least two birds calling outside our hotel at Magoebaskloof on the night of 7th.

Wonderful views of one at Satara during our pre-breakfast walk on 12th. Later the same day, another found atop a bush on our drive - and a bonus for Lewis who had missed the earlier one!

Common on our two night drives with at least 25 seen out of Letaba on 10th and 15 around Satara on 11th.

Heard calling after dark at Punda Maria on 8th. The nigh drive from Letaba on 10th produced around eight birds and the night drive from Satara on 11th provided at least three.

Quite a few on our two night drives with at least 15 seen out of Letaba on 10th and six around Satara on 11th.

Noted daily from 6th to 13th from Pretoria north and east to the Kruger NP.

Two of these giants raked a across the road in front of us near Steenkampsberg Pass on 6th.

Just a single bird seen at Lydenberg during a petrol stop on the drive on 6th.

At least three identified by their contrasting dark backs and pale inner wing at Magoebaskloof on 8th.

The commonest species and seen daily, including some breeding colonies around bridges.

Two at Magoebaskloof on 7th, at least 10 at Satara on 12th and at least 10 around Wakkerstroom on 14th. Small and dumpy like a Little Swift, but with a clearly forked tail.

Odd birds picked out when we had time to go through the overhead parties. Three on 9th, one on 10th at least five on 14th and one on 15th. A rakish, narrow-winged species with a well-forked tail.

Small parties seen regularly around Kruger NP and one or two at Wakkerstroom in bushy habitats.

Three seen well in the camp grounds at Punda Maria on 8th and one more briefly the next day.

Waaagh! Sadly only flight views for Mike and Sheila at the Woodbush Track at Magoebaskloof on 7th.

In Kruger NP, at least three on 12th and one on 13th, but often rather brief. Also one seen at Wakkerstroom WR on 15th.

For those who were lucky enough to be there, wonderful views of one at the little drinking pool at Punda Maria on 8th.

The commonest kingfisher; widespread and quite common around Kruger NP.

One at Punda Maria on 8th and at least three around Letaba on 11th.

Two in the Punda Maria/Pafuri area on 8th were the only ones.

A rather distant bird perched on a riverside log along the Letaba River on 10th and a more obliging female at Letaba on 11th.

Small numbers daily along the Kruger rivers with max of six on 11th. One of Diana's favourites.

Some 20 birds around Pafuri on 9th and smaller numbers along the Kruger rivers on 10th and 11th.

One seen on the drive from Pafuri to Punda Maria on 9th and a couple of pairs seen during our drives on 12th.

Fairly widespread with small parties noted daily from 6th to 13th, max of 20+ on 10th and 13th.

Widespread in the Kruger NP and seen daily from 9th to 12th. Some wonderful views of birds hawking around bridges and occasionally sitting on the road with Barn Swallows.

A good scattering of wintering birds in Kruger NP with a max of some 50 birds on 10th. Also a handful elsewhere, including one outside our hotel at Magoebaskloof on 7th.

A scattering of birds daily in Kruger NP with max of six on 12th.

Singletons in Kruger NP on 9th, 11th and 12th.

In the Kruger NP, one on 8th, five on 9th and one on 11th.

A group of four at Satara and a group of four in the Kruger NP on the drive, all on 12th.

A rather elusive bird on the drive south of Olifants on 11th.

Small numbers around Kruger NP with one to two on five dates from 8th to 13th.

Widespread and common in Kruger NP with birds seen daily.

Small numbers daily in Kruger NP with max of 6+ on 10th.

Two wailing like babies in trees along the Luvuvhu river at Pafuri on 9th and a group of three in the camp at Letaba on 11th.

Heard calling at Punda Maria on 9th and two seen well at Skukuza on 13th.

Noted on seven dates but more often heard than seen. Some good views of birds at fruiting figs at several of the camps in Kruger NP and also noted at Suikerbosrand NR.

Cape Weaver Ploceus capensis
Two singletons in the Wakkerstroom area on 14th (including one in the hotel grounds) and another two on our journey on 15th.

Vitelline (Southern) Masked Weaver Ploceus velatus
Quite widespread, noted in the highveld region and in the southern Kruger. Best views of breeding birds at our lunch stop on 6th and at Satara. Has a smaller black face mask, orange eye, heavier bill and pinkish legs. Usually considered conspecific with Vitelline Masked Weaver but may be worthy of full species status.

Red-headed Weaver Anaplectes rubriceps
What a stunner! Breeding birds dazzled us at Letaba on 10th and 11th. The presence of nests elsewhere showed the species to be widespread, but presumably is nomadic when not breeding.

Red-billed Quelea Quelea quelea
No swarming masses seen, but small parties widespread and common in the Kruger NP.

Yellow-crowned Bishop Euplectes afer
Unreal! The Bumblebee Bishop was widespread and very common throughout the highveld grasslands and provided stunning views around Wakkerstroom. Far and away the commonest bishop.

Southern Red Bishop Euplectes orix
Five or so on our travels through the Kruger NP on 10th, but really came into their own around Wakkerstroom and in the highveld grasslands, where stunning dayglow orange males were a common sight.

Yellow-rumped Widowbird (Yellow Bishop) Euplectes capensis
Just singletons seen by a lucky few; at Magoebaskloof on 7th and at Suikerbosrand NR on 15th. The overall size and structure of this species shows it best considered a widowbird rather than a bishop.

Fan-tailed (Red-shouldered) Widowbird Euplectes axillaris
Small numbers noted daily from 13th to 15th in the highveld grasslands but often only brief glimpses of roadside birds.

White-winged Widowbird Euplectes albonotatus
Small numbers noted on 6th, 8th and 15th in the highveld grasslands, but often only brief roadside views as we flashed by.

Red-collared Widowbird Euplectes ardens
A handful of birds noted at roadside stops on 13th and 15th, but best views of displaying birds at Suikerbosrand NR on 15th.

Long-tailed Widowbird Euplectes progne
Common to abundant in and around Wakkerstroom and widespread throughout the highveld grasslands. Males in full display flight were a common sight on many a drive, and continued to dazzle right to the end.

Grosbeak-weaver Amblyospiza albifrons
A female appeared briefly atop a tree at our Magoebaskloof hotel on 7th.

Red-billed Firefinch Lagonosticta senegala
Brief views of a couple of birds on the lower Woodbush track, Magoebaskloof on 7th and up to four at Punda Maria on 8th/9th.

Jameson's Firefinch Lagonosticta rhodopareia
Nice views of a pair at the little drinking pool at Punda Maria on 8th/9th.

Blue-breasted Cordon-bleu (Blue Waxbill) Uraeginthus angolensis
After one on the drive on 6th, a couple of pairs were seen around Punda Maria/Pafuri on 8th and 9th, Letaba on 11th and Satara on 12th.

Violet-eared Waxbill Uraeginthus granatina
Nice views of a roadside male on our drive through the Kruger NP on 13th.

Common Waxbill Estrilda astrild
Widespread in small numbers, seen on seven days from 7th to 15th.

African Quailfinch Ortygospiza atricollis
Small parties seen daily from 13th to 15th around Wakkerstroom but usually just flying bullets zapping overhead. Some of us had great close-ups of a pair that landed beside the main track on 14th.

Bronze Mannikin Spermestes cucullatus
Scarce with just two birds seen, breeding in an old weaver nest at Skukuza on 13th.

Red-headed Finch Amadina erythrocephala
A real bonus bird! A female sitting on a fence at a petrol stop south of Johannesburg on 15th.

Village Indigobird Vidua chalybeata
An adult male seen on 8th. Parasitises Red-billed Firefinch. In South Africa, has pink bill and legs.

Variable (Dusky/Black) Indigobird Vidua funerea
An adult male seen in open scrub above the Woodbush track, Magoebaskloof on 8th. Parasitises African Firefinch. Has whitish bill and pink legs.

Purple Indigobird Vidua purpurascens
An adult male south of Punda Maria on 10th. Parasitises Jameson's Firefinch. Has whitish bill and legs.

Pin-tailed Whydah Vidua macroura
A couple of males on the drive on 6th and another on 8th, otherwise common in the highveld grasslands with max of 20+ on 14th around Wakkerstroom. Most sightings involved wonderful breeding-plumaged males.

Eastern Paradise Whydah Vidua paradisaea
Superb! A single male on the drive on 6th, then seen daily in the Kruger NP from 8th to 13th. Mostly odd single males, but on 10th, a remarkable flock of some 40 birds - nearly all males - was enjoyed, looking for all the World like Buddhist prayer flags adorning the bushes.

Yellow-crowned (Cape) Canary Serinus canicollis
Common around Wakkerstroom where roving flocks of up to 20 birds were seen regularly.

Forest Canary Serinus scotops
Quite common in forests around Magoebaskloof with pairs seen regularly there.

Black-throated Canary Serinus atrogularis
Poor views of the back end of one at our lunch stop on 6th. Two seen by some on the drive on 13th, then finally good views of three birds at Suikerbosrand NR on 15th.

Yellow-fronted Canary Serinus mozambicus
Widespread in small parties throughout, particularly in the Kruger NP.

Streaky-headed Seedeater Serinus gularis
Two seen at Suikerbosrand NR on 15th.

Cinnamon-breasted Bunting Emberiza tahapisi
A small scattering of birds with two on 6th, 8th, 13th and 14th and at least six on 9th.

Golden-breasted Bunting Emberiza flaviventris
A pair seen from the vehicles at Pafuri on 9th.

;

;

MAMMALS

Warthog Phacochoerus aethiopicus
A few families in the Kruger daily on 10th to 12th.

Hippopotamus Hippopotamus amphibius
Kruger rivers on 10th to 12th.

Giraffe Giraffa camelopardalis
Good numbers in Kruger on 10th to 12th.

Common Duiker Cephalophus grimmia
One on the sunset drive at Satara on 11th.

Steinbok Raphicerus campestris
Half a dozen or so in the Kruger on both 10th and 11th.

Klipspringer Oreotragus oreotragus
Two on a Kopje in Kruger on 10th.

(Southern) Bushbuck Tragelaphus scriptus
Noted daily at Kruger on 9th to 13th. Some very tame individuals at Letaba allowed close scrutiny. More spotted and less striped than northern animals.

Nyala Tragelaphus angasi
Probably the nicest of all antelopes. Wonderful views of good numbers around Pafuri on 9th.

Greater Kudu Tragelaphus strepsiceros
Common around Pafuri on 9th and smaller numbers daily in the Kruger to 12th.

Eland Taurotragus oryx
The back end sticking out from behind a bush really did look like a lion!! One at Suikerbosrand NR on 15th.

Common Waterbuck Kobus ellipsiprymnus
Just small numbers but noted daily in Kruger from 9th to 12th.

Mountain Reedbuck Redunca fulvorufula
One at Zaaihoek Dam, Wakkerstroom on 14th.

Blesbok Damaliscus dorcas phillipsi
Small groups in the highveld grasslands around Wakkerstroom. Also one north of Pretoria.

Tsesseby Damaliscus lunatus lunatus
One seen by some in the Kruger on 10th.

Blue Wildebeest Connochaetes taurinus
Scattered in the Kruger with zebras on 11th to 13th.

Impala Aepyceros melampus
Widespread and very common in the Kruger (+/- several thousand!!).

African Buffalo Syncerus caffer
Some fine herds in Kruger, one of which numbered well over 100 individuals.

Burchell?s Zebra Equus quagga burchelli
Common daily in Kruger NP.

White Rhinoceros Ceratotherium simum
At least six individuals seen from the Nkumbe viewpoint on 12th.

Cape Rock Hyrax Procavia capensis
Common at Zaaihoek Dam, Wakkerstroom on 14th.

African Elephant Loxodonta africana
Wonderfully common in Kruger and seen daily. Not such good news if you're a tree!

Smith?s Bush Squirrel Paraxerus cepapi
Seen daily at Kruger camps, some laying into Mopane Moths with a vengeance!

Springhare Pedetes capensis
One seen on the night drive from Letaba on 10th.

Scrub Hare Lepus saxatilis
One seen on the sunset drive from Satara on 11th.

Black-backed Jackal Canis mesomelas
Three seen on the sunset drive from Satara on 11th.

Cape Clawless Otter Aonyx capensis
Three in the main pool at Wakkerstroom Wetland Reserve on 14th.

Southern Dwarf Mongoose Helogale parvula
Three feeding with guineafowl near Shingwedzi on 10th.

Slender Mongoose Galerella sanguinea
One at the Baobab tree stop in Kruger on 12th and a second the same day at Tshokwane picnic site.

Yellow Mongoose (Bushy-tailed Meerkat) Cynictis penicillata
An endearing animal like a small, slender fox. At Wakkerstroom at least three on 14th.

Meerkat (Suricate) Suricata suricatta
A couple of foraging parties in the Wakkerstroom area on 14th, numbering at least 15 individuals.

African Lion Panthera leo
Three females crossed our path on the night drive at Satara on 11th.

Chacma Baboon Papio cynocephalus ursinus
Common in Kruger NP and also noted on 15th.

Blue Monkey (Samango) Cercopithecus mitis
Small troups seen around Magoebaskloof on 7th and 8th.

Vervet Monkey Chlorocebus aethiops
Small numbers in Kruger NP daily.

[Gambian/Wahlberg's Epauletted Fruit Bat Epomophorus gambianus/E. wahlbergi]
A wonderful roosting colony found by John at Skukuza under the eaves of the shop. Ian suggested these were likely to be Peters' Epauletted Fruit Bats (E. gambianus crypturus), which most references now consider to be a subspecies of Gambian. However, both Gambian and Wahlberg's Epauletted Fruit Bats occur in the area and it seems the only way to tell them apart is by the number of ridges on the palate behind the back teeth (two for Gambian, one for Wahlberg's)!!

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Grey Tree Frog Chiromantis xerampelina Kruger (crossing the road - also foam nests)

Marsh (Helmeted) Terrapin Pelomedusa subrufa Kruger

Nile Crocodile Crocodylus niloticus Kruger rivers

Nile Monitor Varanus niloticus Kruger

Southern Tree Agama Acanthocercus atricollis Kruger (Skukuza)

Drakensberg Crag Lizard Pseudocordylus melanotus Suikerbosrand NR (with radio collar!)

Black-lined Plated Lizard Gerrhosaurus nigrolineatus Kruger (in middle of road!)

Five-lined (Rainbow) Skink Mabuya quinquetaeniata Nkumbe Viewpoint, Kruger

Flap-neck Chameleon Chamaeleo dilepis Kruger (crossing the road!)

**Transvaal Dwarf Chameleon Bradypodium transvaalense Magoebaskloof hotel

Southern African Rock Python Python natalensis Kruger, on the night drive

Mozambique Spitting Cobra Naja mossambica Kruger, on the night drive

Black Mamba Dendroaspis polylepis Kruger

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** The chameleon at Magoebaskloof turned out to be this species, based on closer scrutiny of the photos, revealing a spiny crest running down to the base of the tail and the presence of a few larger, rounded scales on the flanks. Most of the dwarf chameleons are little-known and distributions are uncertain. The field guide states that Transvaal Dwarf Chameleon is restricted to the vicinity of Haenertsburg and Woodbush Forest Reserve, although similar individuals occurring elsewhere in Northern Province and Mpumalanga may also be this species.